The situation when the upper chamber of the refrigerator stops cooling, but the freezer continues to function normally, is one of the most common and alarming problems for owners of household appliances. You open the door, hoping to get food out, and it’s warm there, while downstairs, in the freezing zone, everything is covered with frost. This does not mean that the device is completely out of order, but it signals a serious violation in the refrigerant circulation cycle or the temperature control system.
There is no need to panic in this case, but you should not delay solving the problem, since the products in the main chamber can quickly deteriorate. Often the cause is a simple clogged capillary pipe or a freon leak, but there are also less complex options, for example, a loose door or incorrect settings. Understanding the operating principle of your model Indesit, Atlant or LG will help you quickly determine the vector of action.
Before calling a technician or disassembling the unit, it is necessary to carry out an initial diagnosis that will help weed out false alarms. In some cases, it is enough to simply defrost the equipment or replace the seal to restore normal cold distribution. Let's look in detail at why a temperature imbalance occurs and what steps need to be taken.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the motor-compressor works continuously without turning off for hours, and there is no cold in the main chamber, immediately disconnect the device from the network. Long-term operation in this mode can lead to engine combustion and expensive repairs.
The main reasons for the lack of cold in the upper chamber
The most common reason why only the freezer works in the refrigerator lies in the disruption of the refrigerant circulation. In two-chamber systems No Frost or combined models, cold air is forced from the evaporator located in the freezer compartment into the upper chamber through special channels. If this flow is blocked by an ice plug or blockage, the upper section remains warm.
Another common option is a freon leak. Gas can escape through microcracks in the circuit caused by corrosion or mechanical damage. If the amount of refrigerant is insufficient, it is not enough for the full cooling cycle, and it is the main storage area that suffers first, since the freezer takes all the available cold.
It is also worth taking into account the human factor and external influences. A loosely closed door, frequent opening or installation of the refrigerator close to the wall disrupts heat exchange. As a result, the system does not have time to remove heat, and the sensors detect overheating, forcing the compressor to work for wear without achieving the desired result in the upper compartment.
- ❄️ Freezing of the air ducts or clogged capillary tube, blocking the freon flow.
- 🔧 Malfunction of the thermostat or defrost sensor, which incorrectly reads the temperature.
- 🚪 Damage to the magnetic door seal that lets warm air in.
- 🔌 Voltage surges that led to malfunctions of the electronic control module.
Hidden signs of freon leakage
If you see swelling of the back wall inside the freezer or hearing a hissing sound when the appliance is turned off are sure signs of depressurization of the system. In such cases, independent repair is impossible.
Diagnostics of the No Frost system and defrosting
For owners of modern models with the system No Frost the first step should be complete defrosting. It often happens that the defrost system fails and too much ice accumulates on the evaporator. This ice blocks the ventilation holes through which cold air should enter the refrigerator compartment.
To carry out proper defrosting, you must unplug the refrigerator, empty it of food and leave it with the doors open for at least 24 hours. It is important not to use a hair dryer or other heating devices to speed up the process, since a sharp temperature change can damage the plastic or evaporator tubes.
After the equipment has been left for a day, you need to thoroughly wipe all surfaces with a dry rag and turn on the device. If after several hours of operation in empty mode the upper chamber began to cool, then the problem lay in the “snow coat”. However, if the situation repeats after a week or two, it means that one of the elements of the defrosting system is faulty: heating element, timer or sensor.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to pick out ice with a knife or sharp objects. Damage to the evaporator tubes will lead to immediate release of freon and will require complex repairs with soldering.
Checking the thermostat and temperature sensors
The thermostat (thermostat) is the “brain” that decides when to turn the compressor on and off. If this device fails, it may “think” that it is already cold in the refrigerator and not give a command to start the engine, although in reality it is warm in the main chamber. In older models this is a mechanical part with a tube, in new ones it is an electronic sensor.
Diagnostics of a mechanical thermostat is often carried out by exclusion. If, when turning the regulator knob to the “Maximum” position, a characteristic click does not occur and the compressor does not start, there is a high probability of its breakdown. In electronic models Bosch or Samsung sensor malfunction is usually displayed as an error code on the display.
Replacing the thermostat is a relatively simple procedure, but requires precision. The new element must have similar characteristics, otherwise the operation of the refrigerator will be disrupted. It is important to correctly install the sensitive tube or the sensor itself in the seat so that it correctly reads the air temperature.
- 🔍 Visual inspection of the thermostat contacts for oxidation or burning.
- 📉 Checking the resistance of the sensor with a multimeter (should change as the temperature changes).
- 🔄 Testing the operation of the compressor when the contacts of the thermostat are closed directly.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the heart of the refrigeration unit, creating pressure for the movement of freon. If you hear the engine humming but not starting, or it turns on for a couple of seconds and clicks before turning off, the problem may be with the start relay. This small element is responsible for starting the motor, and its breakdown is a common reason why the freezer is still freezing (due to residual cold or inertia), and the top is not cooled.
In more severe cases, the compressor itself may not work efficiently. Wear of the piston group causes the engine to hum, but does not create the necessary pressure. Freon circulates only in a small circle (freezer), not reaching the evaporator of the main chamber. Only a master can determine this using a pressure gauge manifold.
It is also worth paying attention to the condenser (the grille at the back of the refrigerator). If it is only partially hot or, conversely, cold when the engine is running, this indicates problems with the circulation of the refrigerant. Overheating of the compressor housing is another alarming signal that requires immediate intervention.
⚠️ Attention: You can replace the start relay with your own hands if you know how to use a screwdriver. However, if the problem is in the compressor itself, independent repair is strictly prohibited due to high pressure in the system.
Freon leak and capillary system blockage
Refrigerant leak is one of the most difficult problems. Freon can escape through microcracks in the foamed part of the body or in places where the tubes are soldered. Symptoms include poor cooling, no cold in the upper chamber, and sometimes oily spots near the compressor. This cannot be done without special equipment and evacuation of the system.
Clogging of the capillary tube occurs due to moisture or oil wear products entering the system. An ice or mud plug forms, blocking the movement of gas. In this case, the compressor may work very loudly, trying to push through the plug, and the condenser will only be hot at the beginning.
To eliminate these faults, you need to call a specialist. The technician will determine the location of the leak using a leak detector, seal it, replace the filter drier and fill the system with new freon. Attempts to simply “add gas” without eliminating the cause of the leak will only give a temporary effect.
☑️ Actions if a freon leak is suspected
Table: Comparison of symptoms and probable causes
For ease of diagnosis, we have prepared a summary table that will help compare the observed symptoms with the most likely causes of the malfunction. Remember that an accurate diagnosis can only be made by a specialist after instrumental checks.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Need for a technician |
|---|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the top warm, the compressor is silent | The thermostat or sensor is faulty | Low | Desirable |
| The compressor hums, clicks and turns off | Starting relay or compressor wedge | Average | Yes |
| There is cold, but weak, ice freezing | Clogged capillary or freon leak | High | Required |
| Temperature is floating, ice in the channels | Defrost system malfunction (No Frost) | Average | Yes |
| Noisy operation, overheating of the case | Wear of the compressor or fan | High | Yes |
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it possible to temporarily use the refrigerator if the upper chamber is not working?
You can use the device in this mode only for a short time while you are waiting for the technician or defrosting. Prolonged operation with a disrupted cooling cycle will lead to overload of the compressor and eventual breakdown. Food cannot be stored in the upper chamber.
Why, after defrosting, did the refrigerator stop cooling the top again?
This indicates that the reason is not simple icing, but a malfunction of the defrost system components (heating element, sensor, timer) or a freon leak. The ice plug has formed again due to the fact that the water is not removed or the system does not warm up in time.
How long do you need to wait for the cold after turning on a defrosted refrigerator?
Usually, an empty refrigerator takes from 2 to 4 hours to reach operating temperature. If after 5-6 hours of operation in the upper chamber the temperature does not drop below +10...+12 degrees, then there is a technical malfunction.
Does the amount of food affect the cooling of the upper chamber?
Yes, it does. A refrigerator that is too tightly packed prevents air circulation. There must be a gap between the products for the free passage of cold flows. However, if the chamber is empty and there is no cold, this is already a sign of a breakdown.