Have you opened the refrigerator, and the food in the upper chamber is warm, although the freezer is working as usual? This is a common problem that can occur both in older models Atlant or Biryusaand in modern refrigerators Samsung No Frost or LG Inverter. The reasons lie in a violation of the circulation of the refrigerant, a breakdown of the fan or electronics - and they cannot be ignored. If the malfunction is not corrected in time, the compressor will wear out, which will lead to expensive repairs.
In this article we will look 7 main reasonswhy the upper chamber stopped cooling, but the freezer continues to freeze. You will learn how to diagnose the problem yourself (even without special tools), what manipulations you can do yourself, and in what cases immediately disconnect the refrigerator from the network to avoid a fire or compressor failure. We will also provide step-by-step instructions for the most common models and a table with typical symptoms of malfunctions.
1. Capillary tube clogged: why the refrigerant does not flow into the upper chamber
The capillary tube is a thin copper channel through which freon (refrigerant) flows from the condenser to the evaporator of the upper chamber. If the tube becomes clogged oil, moisture or freon decomposition products, circulation is disrupted and the upper part of the refrigerator stops cooling, while the freezer continues to work (since the refrigerant reaches it through the bypass circuit).
Signs of a blockage capillaries:
- 🔹 The compressor works without stopping or turns on too often.
- 🔹 The condenser (the grill at the back of the refrigerator) is evenly heated, but not hot.
- 🔹 The upper chamber is warm, the freezer freezes weaker than usual (but does not thaw completely).
What to do? Cleaning the capillary tube is a task for a master, as it requires special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauges) and soldering skills. However, you can preliminarily diagnose clog yourself:
Disconnect the refrigerator from the network for 12-24 hours (let the pressure in the system equalize)|
Check the temperature of the condenser: if after switching on it heats up unevenly (one part is hot, the other cold) - this is a sign of a blockage|
Listen to the compressor: when clogged it works louder, with extraneous vibrations
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⚠️ Attention: Do not try to clean the capillary mechanically (wire, compressed air) - this will lead to damage to the tube and leakage of freon. The only safe way is hydraulic flushing or replacing the tube.
2. No Frost fan malfunction: why the upper chamber is warm, but the freezer freezes
In refrigerators with a system No Frost (Samsung RB, LG GA-B, Indesit DF**), a fan is responsible for cooling the upper chamber, which drives cold air from the freezer evaporator. If the fan breaks, the cold stops flowing into the main compartment, although the freezer continues to work.
Causes of fan failure:
- 🔌 Broken motor winding (checked with a multimeter).
- 🧊 Icing of the blades (if the refrigerator has not been defrosted years).
- 🔧 Mechanical blockage (ingress of foreign objects).
- 📉 Malfunction of the control board (fan does not receive power).
How to check the fan:
- Disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply.
- Remove the back panel in the freezer (usually secured with 2-4 screws).
- Try to turn the fan blades by hand - if they do not rotate or you hear a grinding noise, the problem is mechanical.
- Connect the refrigerator to the network and listen: if the fan does not start, but voltage is supplied to it (check indicator screwdriver), which means it has burned out.
How to temporarily restore the operation of the refrigerator if the fan is broken?
If the fan is blocked by ice, defrost the refrigerator for 24 hours. If the problem is electrical, you can temporarily connect the fan directly to the network (bypassing the control board), but this is risky - the winding may burn out. It is better to immediately replace the part.
The cost of a new fan for No Frostrefrigerators: from 1,500 to 4,000 rubles (depending on the model). Replacement takes 30–60 minutes.
3. Freon leak: how to determine and what to do
If the upper chamber does not cool and the freezer is weak (or stopped freezing after 1-2 days), most likely it has occurred freon leak. Refrigerant leaks through microcracks in the tubes, solders or evaporator. Most often this happens:
- 🔧 After careless repairs (for example, when replacing a compressor).
- 🧊 Due to corrosion of tubes (in old refrigerators ZIL, Minsk, Nord).
- 🔥 In case of mechanical damage (for example, if the refrigerator was transported lying down).
Signs of a freon leak:
- 🔹 The compressor works without stopping, but does not cool.
- 🔹 Condenser (grid behind) remains cold.
- 🔹 Oil stains are visible on the pipes or in the freezer (freon leaks out along with the oil).
What to do? Fix the leak yourself impossible — required:
- Find the location of the leak (using a leak detector or soap solution).
- Repair the damage (solder the tube or replace the evaporator).
- Evacuate the system and fill in new freon.
Average repair cost: from 3,500 to 8,000 rubles (depending on the model and amount of work).
No Frost|
Drip (crying evaporator)|
I don’t know which system|
Another type-->
4. or temperature sensor
If the upper chamber does not cool, but the freezer is working, the problem may lie in thermostat (in mechanical models) or temperature sensor (in electronic ones). If they fail, the compressor either does not start or works. incorrect.
How to check the thermostat:
- Unplug the refrigerator.
- Remove the thermostat protective cover (usually located inside the upper chamber or on the back wall).
- Test the contacts with a multimeter in resistance test mode. At room temperature, the resistance should be
0 Ohm(contacts are closed). - Place the thermostat sensor in ice - the resistance should become
∞(contacts are open).
If the thermostat does not work, it needs to be replaced. The cost of a new one: from 800 to 2,500 rubles. In electronic refrigerators (Samsung, LG, Bosch) it often fails evaporator sensor - it is checked in the same way, but replacement may require flashing. control boards.
5. Drainage system clogged: why the refrigerator does not cool from above
In refrigerators with drip defrosting system (Atlant, Biryusa, Stinol), condensate flows down the drain tube into the pan. If the tube becomes clogged mold, dirt or ice, water accumulates at the bottom of the chamber and freezes, blocking air circulation. As a result, the top part stops cooling, and the freezer works normally.
Signs of blockage drainage:
- 🔹 Water accumulates at the bottom of the refrigerator compartment.
- 🔹 Ice or frost forms on the back wall.
- 🔹 The compressor works longer than usual.
How to clean the drainage system:
- Unplug the refrigerator.
- Remove all food and shelves from the upper chamber.
- Find the drainage hole (usually at the bottom of the back wall) and clean it with a wire or a special brush.
- Rinse the tube with warm water and soda (2 tablespoons per 1 liter of water).
- Check the condensate tray (located at the back of the refrigerator) - if it is cracked, replace it.
6. Problems with the door seal: why the refrigerator does not keep cold
If the rubber seal is on the upper chamber door torn, deformed or lost elasticity, warm air constantly enters the refrigerator. The compressor tries to compensate for this, but the cold is not maintained. In this case, the freezer can work normally, since its door is sealed.
How to check the seal:
- 🔹 Place a sheet of paper between the door and the body. If it falls out or is easily pulled out, the seal is not airtight.
- 🔹 Inspect the rubber band for cracks, tears or traces of mold.
- 🔹 Check whether the seal is coming away from the door (often happens in refrigerators Samsung after 5–7 years operation).
How to restore tightness:
- 🧼 Clean the door seal and groove from dirt and grease (use soda solution).
- 🔥 Warm the deformed areas with a hairdryer (temperature 60–70°C) and apply elastic shape.
- 🛠️ If the seal is torn, replace it. Average cost: 1,200–3,000 rubles (depending on the model).
⚠️ Attention: Do not use aggressive detergents to clean the seal (for example, Domestos or Whiteness) - they destroy the rubber structure. It is better to take a soap solution or a specialized product for seals.
7. Malfunction of the control board: when the refrigerator “glitches”
In modern refrigerators (LG, Samsung, Bosch, Liebherr) it is responsible for the distribution of cold electronic control board. If it fails, the top chamber may stop cooling even though the freezer is working. Reasons for board failure:
- 🔌 Power surges in the network.
- 💧 Moisture ingress (for example, during defrosting).
- 🔥 Overheating due to poor ventilation.
Symptoms of board malfunction:
- 🔹 The display shows errors (
E1, E2, ER IFetc.). - 🔹 The compressor turns on for 5-10 seconds and turns off.
- 🔹 The No Frost fan works continuously or does not turn on at all.
What to do:
- Unplug the refrigerator for 10-15 minutes (sometimes rebooting helps).
- Check the voltage in the outlet - it should be there
220–230 V. - If the board is burned out (blackened elements are visible), it needs to be replaced. Average cost: 4,000–10,000 rubles.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Can it be fixed independently? | Repair cost (RUB) |
|---|---|---|---|
| The upper chamber is warm, the freezer freezes weakly | Freon leak | ❌ No | 3 500–8 000 |
| The upper chamber does not cool, the freezer is working normally | Fan malfunction no frost turns on and turns off immediately | ⚠️ Partially (defrost) | 1 500–4 000 |
| The compressor runs without stopping, the condenser is cold | Capillary tube clogged | ❌ No | 4 000–9 000 |
| The refrigerator turns on and then turns off immediately | Failure of the control board | ⚠️ Reboot | 4 000–12 000 |
| There is water at the bottom of the chamber, the upper part does not cool | Clogged drainage system | ✅ Yes | Free |
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about refrigerator malfunctions
Can I fill the refrigerator with freon myself?
No. To refill freon, special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure manifold) and skills in working with refrigerants are required. Incorrect refueling can lead to explosion of the cylinder or failure of the compressor. Contact a specialist.
Why does the upper chamber not cool after defrosting?
Probable reasons:
- 🔹 In refrigerators No Frost the fan could break due to icing.
- 🔹 In models with a drip system, the drainage hole is clogged.
- 🔹 During defrosting, the thermostat or temperature sensor was damaged.
Check these elements according to the instructions above.
How long can you operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not cool?
If the freezer is working normally, the refrigerator can be used no more than 1-2 weeks, but with caution:
- 🔹 Store perishable foods only in freezer.
- 🔹 Do not load the compressor (do not open the freezer door often).
- 🔹 Monitor the temperature in the upper chamber - if it is higher
+10°C, the risk of food spoilage increases.
Long operation in this mode will lead to compressor overheating and its breakdown.
How to check if the compressor is working?
Signs of a working compressor:
- 🔹 It vibrates slightly and heats up (but not hot!).
- 🔹 A uniform hum is heard without any extraneous sounds (knocking, creaking).
- 🔹 The condenser (grid at the back) heats up.
If the compressor does not turn on at all, check:
- 🔌 Voltage in the socket.
- 🔧 Thermostat or control board.
- 🔋 Start relay (a common problem in refrigerators Atlant i Biryusa).
What to do if the refrigerator is under warranty?
If the refrigerator is under warranty (usually 1–3 years), do not disassemble it yourself - this will void the warranty. First:
- Check the warranty conditions (some manufacturers, for example Bosch, require that the packaging be preserved).
- Contact an authorized service center (contacts are in the warranty card).
- If the technician confirms that the breakdown is not your fault (for example, a defective compressor), the repair will be free.
⚠️ Attention: The warranty does not cover breakdowns due to improper use (for example, if the refrigerator has not been defrosted for 5 years or was transported lying down).