Detection of deformation on the inner surface of the refrigerator compartment is an alarming signal that cannot be ignored. If you notice that the back wall is swollen inside the refrigerator, this means a violation of the integrity of the thermal insulation layer or a problem with the moisture removal system. Visually, this may look like a bump, wave, or peeling of plastic from the metal body, which immediately catches your eye when you open the door.
The situation requires immediate intervention, since further operation of the unit in this condition can lead to a complete loss of the tightness of the circuit. In some cases, bloating is accompanied by the appearance of an unpleasant odor, a decrease in the quality of frozen food, or the formation of condensation in unexpected places. Understanding the nature of this defect will help you make the right decision: try to fix the problem yourself or call a specialist.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanics of the process, explain why the panel is deformed, and consider the algorithm of actions for owners of equipment of different brands. It is important not to panic, but to consistently assess the extent of the damage in order to avoid costly repair of the compressor or replacement of the entire cabinet.
The main reasons for the deformation of the internal panel
The main reason why the the back wall is swollen refrigerator is most often a violation of the production technology or damage during transportation. The inside of the refrigerator is a “sandwich”, where thermal insulation material is foamed between the outer metal casing and the inner plastic liner. If, during the factory filling of polyurethane foam, voids were formed or the adhesion (adhesion) of the plastic to the foam was weak, over time, under the influence of temperature changes, the plastic begins to come off.
The second common reason is mechanical impact. Impacts with sharp objects, attempts to break off ice with a knife, or careless transportation can damage the structure of the plastic. Even a microcrack, invisible to the eye, allows moisture to penetrate between the layers. Freezing, the water expands and literally squeezes the plastic inside the chamber, creating characteristic bumps. It is also worth noting that some models in the budget segment use thinner plastic, which is prone to deformation during sudden power surges in the network, causing overheating.
The third reason lies in the malfunction of the system No Frost or the capillary tube of the evaporator. If a refrigerant leak occurs or the drain hole becomes clogged, the moisture does not have time to evaporate and accumulates behind the plastic panel. Frozen water creates pressure that physically bends the wall. This is the most dangerous scenario, as it indicates a deep technical malfunction of the unit.
⚠️ Attention: If the swelling of the wall is accompanied by hissing, whistling or the smell of oil, immediately unplug the refrigerator. This is a sign of depressurization of the refrigerant circuit, which can be dangerous to health and requires professional intervention.
Diagnostics: how serious is the problem?
Before taking active steps, it is necessary to conduct a thorough diagnosis of the condition of the unit. An initial inspection will help determine whether the defect is purely cosmetic or whether it threatens the functionality of the device. Carefully inspect the location of the swelling: if the plastic has simply come off, but has not cracked, and the inside of the chamber is dry, the chances of successful independent repair are high.
Check the operation of the refrigerator as a whole. Evaluate how quickly it picks up temperature, whether there is a “coat” of frost in other places, whether the fan is working (if the model is with No Frost). Often, swelling of the back wall is just the tip of the iceberg, and the root of the problem lies in the malfunction of the thermostat or defrost timer.
For an accurate diagnosis, you may need to remove the plastic panel, if the design of the model allows this. In some refrigerators, for example, older models Indesit or Atlant, the back wall is removable. In modern models, such as LG or Samsung, it is often part of a monolithic box, and access to the insides is limited. If you see that water or ice has accumulated behind the plastic, this indicates a problem with drainage or a freon leak in the foamed part.
Instructions: how to eliminate bloating with your own hands
If you decide that the situation is not critical and only requires eliminating a cosmetic defect, you can try to restore the geometry of the wall. This method is suitable for cases where the plastic is intact, but has moved away from the base. You will need tools for careful impact and materials for fixation.
Before starting any work, be sure to defrost the refrigerator completely. This will take 12 to 24 hours. Water must be removed from all hard-to-reach places, otherwise when heated it will turn into steam and inflate the wall again. After defrosting, dry the camera with a hair dryer (at minimum temperature) or simply leave it open for a day.
☑️ Preparation for repair
There are several methods of fixation. The simplest is the use of weights. A flat object (for example, a cutting board) is placed on the hand-leveled wall, on which the load is installed. However, this method only works if the plastic has “shape memory” and has not been previously overheated. A more reliable option is to use polyurethane foam with a low coefficient of expansion or a special adhesive for plastic and polyurethane.
If you use foam, proceed with extreme caution. Through a small hole (if it is possible to make it in an inconspicuous place or through existing technological gaps), a minimum amount of composition is introduced. As the foam expands, it will fill the void and press the plastic against the body. Excess that comes out must be removed immediately.
| Repair method | Efficiency | Complexity | Risks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mechanical clamp (weights) | Low | Minimum | May not straighten the plastic |
| Foaming of voids | High | Medium | Risk of recurrence swelling due to dosage error |
| Replacing the entire panel | 100% | High | Difficulty finding spare parts, labor intensive |
| Use of adhesive-sealant | Medium | Average | Toxicity, long drying |
Problems of the No Frost system and drainage
Often the question “why the back wall is swollen” is associated with a malfunction of the automatic defrosting system. In refrigerators No Frost moisture from food settles on the evaporator located behind the back wall. The heating element is turned on periodically, the ice melts, and the water flows into the drainage hole. If this path is clogged with crumbs, ice or mold, the water has nowhere to go.
Accumulating, the water freezes in the form of an ice plug. During the next defrosting cycle, the volume of ice increases and it begins to put pressure on the plastic panel from the inside, causing it to deform. Visually, it looks like a swelling in the lower or middle part of the back wall. The solution to the problem is to clean the drainage channel.
For cleaning, you can use a special brush, soft wire or a medical syringe with warm water. Carefully insert the tool into the drain hole (usually located at the bottom of the back wall or under drawers) and try to break through the clog. After this, pour some warm water there to make sure that it flows freely into the condensate collection container above the compressor.
How to prevent drainage from freezing?
To prevent freezing of the drainage tube in winter, you can use special heating elements or regularly check the patency of the channel. Installing the refrigerator away from heat sources and direct sunlight also helps.
When you need to call a technician
There are situations when self-repair is not only useless, but also dangerous. If the back wall is swollen refrigerator due to a freon leak in the foamed part of the body, no weights or adhesives will help. The refrigerant circulates through tubes embedded in the walls or passing in close proximity to them. Corrosion of the metal tubes from the inside (oxygen corrosion) leads to microscopic holes through which gas escapes into the thermal insulation layer.
The gas, once in a confined space between the metal and the plastic, creates pressure. Over time, it finds a way out or simply bursts the structure. You can understand that a leak has occurred by indirect signs: the refrigerator hums constantly, without turning off, but does not cool; there is no characteristic heating on the rear grille (condenser); there may be oily spots in places of swelling (oil comes out along with freon).
⚠️ Attention: An attempt to pierce the swelling in order to “release gas” is strictly prohibited! You will release the remaining freon, moisture and air will enter the system, which will completely damage the compressor. Repair will become economically unfeasible.
Also, the help of a specialist is necessary if the deformation has led to rupture of the plastic. It is almost impossible to restore the chamber's tightness at home in a quality manner. The technician may suggest installing a new interior panel (if it is on sale) or completely replacing the cabinet, which is often equivalent to buying a new refrigerator.
Prevention and care of the refrigerator compartment
To avoid reoccurrence of the problem, you must follow the operating rules. Defrost your refrigerator regularly, even if it is equipped with a system No Frost (recommended 1-2 times a year). This will remove ice plugs in the drainage and check the condition of the seals.
Do not use sharp objects to remove ice or clean the surface. To clean the inner chamber, use soft sponges and special products that do not contain abrasives or aggressive solvents that can destroy the structure of the plastic. Wipe the back wall dry after wet cleaning.
Monitor the temperature conditions. Do not set the temperature too low unless necessary, as this will cause the compressor to work harder and cause more ice to form. The optimal temperature in the main chamber is +4°C, in the freezer -18°C.
Comparison of repairability of different brands
The problem of wall swelling occurs among different manufacturers, but the frequency and causes may vary. Equipment owners Indesit and Ariston often encounter corrosion of the evaporator sealed into the wall, which leads to swelling. In models Atlant and Biryusa plastic peeling is more common due to the assembly features and quality of the foam.
Premium brands, such as Liebherr or Bosch, are less likely to suffer from such defects due to the use thicker plastic and high-quality insulation. However, they can also have drainage problems if they are not cleaned regularly. It is important to understand that the price of repairs for different brands will differ significantly due to the cost of spare parts.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Can I continue to use the refrigerator if the wall is swollen?
If the swelling is small, the plastic is intact, there is no freon leakage (the refrigerator freezes normally) and smell, it can be used. However, the defect will progress, so it is better to start repairs in the near future.
How much does it cost to replace the back wall of the refrigerator?
The cost consists of the price of the panel itself (if it is removable) and the work of the technician. On average, this can range from 30% to 60% of the cost of a new refrigerator. If the wall is not removable, the repair requires a complete overhaul of the cabinet and is very expensive.
Why did the wall swell in the new refrigerator?
This is a manufacturing defect. Possible underfilling of foam during assembly or violation of the layer gluing technology. The new unit is covered by a warranty, so do not try to repair it yourself, but immediately contact a service center.
Is wall swelling dangerous to health?
Plastic swelling itself is not dangerous. The only danger is a refrigerant leak. Modern freons (R600a, R134a) are not toxic in small quantities, but in combination with oil and in high concentrations in a confined space they can cause suffocation. Ventilate the room when a smell appears.