Detecting deformation of the internal chamber of the refrigerator is always an unpleasant surprise for the owner of household appliances. When the rear wall is swollen or side panel, this indicates serious problems in the operation of the unit that cannot be ignored. Ignoring the problem can lead to complete failure of the equipment or damage to the products.
In most cases, swelling occurs due to the accumulation of ice in the hidden cavities of the case or a violation of the circulation of the refrigerant. Freoncirculating in the system can freeze in abnormal places, creating pressure on thin plastic or metal inner lining. It is important to quickly determine the cause in order to make the right repair decision.
Self-diagnosis requires care and compliance with safety precautions. You will have to assess the extent of the damage and understand whether the situation can be corrected at home or whether professional intervention is required. Below we will analyze in detail the mechanics of the process and the algorithm of actions.
The main reasons for the deformation of the internal walls
The first thing you need to understand is why the wall is swollen. Most often the culprit is malfunction of the defrost system. In modern models with No Frost, water from melting ice should flow into a special tray. If the drain hole is clogged, the water freezes, turns into a block of ice and begins to physically push the plastic out.
Another reason could be depressurization of the door perimeter heating circuitwhen heat from the compressor or condenser is transferred to the walls, causing thermal expansion of the materials and then their deformation as they cool. It is also worth checking the operation of the thermostat. If it is “stuck” in the “on” position, the evaporator becomes overgrown with a thick layer of ice, which presses on the rear panel.
Often the problem lies in mechanical damage or manufacturing defects. The thin plastic of the internal chambers of modern refrigerators Indesit, Atlant or Beko is not designed for constant pressure from the inside. Even a small amount of ice formed behind the casing can create a visible “wave” or hump.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear hissing or see oil bubbles on the bulge, immediately unplug the appliance. This is a sign of a breakdown of the refrigerant circuit, which is dangerous to health.
There is also a risk of violation of the technology for foaming the housing at the factory. Voids in thermal insulation can be filled with moisture from the air, which expands during freeze-thaw cycles. This leads to local swelling, which is difficult to eliminate without opening the case.
Diagnostics: ice or gas?
To understand the nature of the swelling, it is necessary to conduct a visual and tactile inspection. Gently feel the deformed area. If the wall is cold and feels hard to the touch, like stone, then there is a high degree of probability that it has accumulated there ice. This is typical for problems with the evaporator.
If the swelling is located in the contour area around the perimeter of the door or on the side wall closer to the top, and it is warm (when the compressor is running), this may indicate peculiarities in the operation of the condenser. However, if the wall is swollen with a “bubble” and there is a feeling of emptiness or softness inside, the mounting foam may have come off.
- 🧊 Ice plug: Characteristic of the evaporator area (usually the back wall in the freezer or refrigerator No Frost).
- 🔥 Thermal expansion: Observed on side walls where pipes with hot refrigerant pass.
- 💨 Insulation peeling: Bloating looks like an air bubble, often found in older models.
For accurate diagnosis of models Samsung or LG sometimes partial disassembly is required. Remove the back panel in the freezer (if the design allows it). If under the panel you see a huge lump of snow blocking the fan, then the reason has been found - the defrost cycle is broken.
Methods of defrosting and removing ice
If diagnostics showed that ice has accumulated inside, the safest and most effective method is complete defrosting. Do not try to pick out the ice with a knife or knock on the wall to break it up. You risk breaking evaporator, and then the repair will cost the cost of a new refrigerator.
Disconnect the device from the power supply. Leave the doors open for at least 12, preferably 24, hours. Be sure to place towels or a flat tray under the freezer, as there will be a lot of water. It is not recommended to speed up the process with a hairdryer or hot water, as a sudden temperature change can damage the plastic.
After all the ice has melted, thoroughly wipe the chamber dry. Turn on the refrigerator and listen to it work. If the swelling was caused by ice, the plastic often (but not always) returns to its original state on its own within a few hours of operation.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly prohibited to use sharp objects to remove ice. A puncture of the evaporator will lead to a freon leak and will require complex industrial repairs.
In some cases, especially in models Bosch or Siemens, defrosting alone is not enough. You need to find and clean the drainage hole. It may be located deep inside the case. To clean, use a soft wire or a special brush, carefully inserting it into the channel.
Repairing the defrost system (No Frost)
If after defrosting the problem repeats a week later, it means the automatic defrosting system is faulty. In refrigerators No Frost a heating element, temperature sensor and timer (or electronic module) are responsible for this process. If one of these elements fails, the ice stops melting and accumulates.
Most often it burns out Defrost heating element. It is a tube located under the evaporator. You can check its integrity with a multimeter in dial mode. The resistance of a working heating element is usually from 200 to 500 Ohms. If the device shows a break (infinity), the part must be replaced.
The defrost sensor also often fails. It controls the temperature of the evaporator and gives a command to turn on the heater. If the sensor is “lying,” the control module does not start defrosting, believing that there is no ice or the temperature has not yet dropped to the desired temperature.
| System element | Fault symptom | Check method |
|---|---|---|
| Defrost heating element | The ice does not melt, the bloating is growing | Test with a multimeter |
| Defrost sensor | The defrost does not turn on or goes on constantly | Measuring resistance at different temperatures |
| Timer/Module | No mode switching | Electrical circuit diagnostics |
| Fan | Noise, channel freezing | Visual inspection and rotation check |
Replacement of these parts requires partial disassembly of the rear of the refrigerator. In models Whirpool access to the evaporator may be difficult, which requires dismantling the entire freezer compartment. If you are not confident in your skills in working with electricians, it is better to entrust this work to a specialist.
When you need to call a specialist
There are situations when self-repair is impossible or dangerous. If the swelling is accompanied by a change in the shape of the tubes, visible oil stains or a characteristic whistle of escaping gas, we are talking about a breakdown of the circuit. This requires evacuation of the system and filling with freon.
Also, professional help is needed if the polyurethane foam layer is swollen. This means that the seal of the outer casing has been broken or the internal partitions have ruptured. Restoring the geometry of the housing at home is almost impossible without special equipment.
- 🛠️ Freon leak: Requires soldering of tubes, evacuation and refrigerant charging.
- 🔌 Compressor malfunction: If the unit hums, but does not cool, and the walls are deformed.
- 🏗️ Case destruction: If the plastic has burst or the deformation is critical.
It is worth considering that modern refrigerators are complex electronic devices. Attempted tampering may result in damage to wiring or sensors. If the warranty is still valid, any DIY repair will void your right to free service.
⚠️ Attention: Work with refrigerants requires a license and special equipment. An independent attempt to refuel can be life-threatening.
Prevention of reoccurrence
To prevent the problem from returning, it is important to follow the operating rules. Do not place hot products in the chamber - this upsets the thermal balance and causes the compressor to work with overload, which contributes to the formation of excess condensation and ice.
Regularly check the rubber seals on the doors. If they do not fit tightly, warm, moist air constantly enters the chamber. It condenses on the walls and freezes, gradually creating pressure. Wipe the elastic bands with a soft cloth and check their elasticity.
Keep the drainage hole clean. Periodically (every couple of months) you can gently rinse it with warm water using a syringe. This will prevent clogging and stagnation of water, which is the main cause of swelling of the rear wall.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator with a swollen wall?
Short-term operation is possible if there is no freon leakage or electrical breakdowns. However, use will result in increased energy consumption, compressor failure and food spoilage. It is better to eliminate the cause immediately.
Why did the wall swell after defrosting?
If the wall swelled after defrosting, you may have used a hairdryer or hot water, which caused deformation of the plastic. Or the main body of ice was deeper, and after the top layer melted, the real condition of the panel became visible.
How much does it cost to repair a defrost system?
The cost depends on the model and region. Replacing a heating element or sensor is usually cheaper than repairing a compressor. On average, the work of a technician plus spare parts will cost 15-30% of the cost of a new refrigerator.
Does swelling affect electricity consumption?
Yes, it does. The ice crust on the evaporator acts as a heat insulator. The refrigerator has to work longer and harder to reach the set temperature, which leads to an increase in electricity bills.