Did the refrigerator suddenly start making strange sounds - crackling, clicking or crackling sounds? Do not rush to panic: in 80% of cases this is a normal phenomenon associated with physical processes inside the equipment. But how to distinguish harmless noise from a signal of a breakdown? In this article we will analyze all possible reasons - from thermal expansion of plastic to faulty start relay, and also give clear recommendations when to call a specialist.
Many modern models (Samsung No Frost, LG Inverter Linear, ATLANT with Multi Air Flow system) crack louder than old Soviet refrigerators due to the design features. For example, inverter compressors they work almost silently, but at the same time they can make high-frequency clicks when switching modes. On the other hand, refrigerators with drip defrosting system often crackle due to bursting ice crusts on the evaporator.
Before sounding the alarm, check: does the crackling sound appear Only when turning on/off or is it heard constantly? Is it accompanied by vibration, overheating of the case or unstable operation? Answers to these questions will help you more accurately diagnose the problem.
1. Normal sounds: when a cracking sound is not dangerous
Not every noise in the refrigerator is a sign of a breakdown. Many sounds are related to physical processes and do not require intervention. Let's look at the most common "safe" reasons:
Thermal expansion of materials. Plastic body parts, door seals, and even metal cooling circuit pipes change size when heated/cooled. This leads to slight cracking, especially in new refrigerators (Bosch Serie 6, Liebherr Premium) during the first 1-2 weeks of operation. The sound is usually heard when:
- 🔹 First turn on after purchase or defrosting
- 🔹 A sharp change in room temperature (for example, if the refrigerator is next to the stove)
- 🔹 The compressor switches to active cooling mode
Operation of the No Frost system. Refrigerators with this technology (Samsung RB37J5240SA, Indesit DF 5200) use fans to distribute the cold evenly. The blades may hit ice or touch the plastic guides, making clicking noises. Also, a cracking sound occurs when automatic defrosting of the evaporator —when ice melts and breaks off from the surface.
Clicks of the relay and thermostat. The compressor start relay and thermostat make characteristic sounds when activated. Normally, they should be:
- 🔹 Short (no longer than 1 second)
- 🔹 Rare (no more than 1 time in 10-15 minutes)
- 🔹 Unaccompanied vibration or burning smell
2. Cracking due to malfunctions: when repairs are needed
If the refrigerator is cracking continuously, the sounds become louder or are accompanied by other symptoms (does not cool, freezes too much, there is an error on the display), this is a reason to check the equipment. Let's consider the most dangerous reasons:
Failure of the start relay. This device is responsible for starting the compressor. When the contacts wear out or the coil burns out, the relay begins to “rattle”, producing a series of frequent crackling sounds. In this case, the refrigerator:
- 🔹 Does not turn on the first time (several attempts are needed)
- 🔹 Works jerkily (turns on for 5-10 seconds and turns off)
- 🔹 The housing in the compressor area heats up
In models ATLANT MHM 2835 i Beko CNK 335120 the relay often fails due to voltage surges. If the relay crackles for more than 30 seconds in a row - this is a 100% sign of its malfunction, requiring replacement.
Compressor malfunction. Wear of the piston group or jamming of the motor leads to metallic knocking and crackling sounds. Dangerous symptoms:
- 🔹 The refrigerator does not cool, but the light inside is on
- 🔹 The case vibrates more than usual
- 🔹 Oil stains appear on the back wall spots
In inverter models (LG GA-B489YVQZ, Hisense RB-400N4WB1), the compressor may crack when interturn short circuit of the windings - this requires urgent diagnosis.
Problems with the No Frost fan. If the fan blades touch ice or are broken, the refrigerator beeps cyclical crackling (every 2-3 seconds). Most often this happens due to:
- 🔹 Freezing of the drainage hole (water does not drain, ice forms)
- 🔹 Heater breakdown evaporator (ice does not melt during automatic defrosting)
- 🔹 Mechanical damage to the blades (for example, due to careless defrosting)
What will happen if you ignore the crackling sound of the fan?
If the problem is not eliminated, the ice will block the fan completely. This will lead to overheating of the fan motor, its failure and the need to replace the entire No Frost module (repair cost - from 8,000 rubles depending on the model).
3. Cracking in the freezer: special reasons
The freezer often cracks louder than the main compartment due to lower temperatures and intense operation of the evaporator. Here's what can cause noise:
Ice in the drainage system. In models with drip defrosting (Indesit DF 4180, Gorenje NRK 6191) water should flow through a special groove into the pan. If the drain is clogged, the liquid freezes and the ice cracks during the next defrost cycle. Check:
- 🔹 Cleanliness of the drainage hole (can be cleaned with a cotton swab)
- 🔹 Position of the condensate tray (it must be standing exactly)
- 🔹 Temperature in the chamber (if below –24°C, ice forms faster)
Evaporator crackling. In freezers with manual defrosting (Birusa 101, Snaige FR-106) the metal evaporator contracts as it cools, making sounds similar to the crunching of paper. This is normal, but if the sound has become louder:
- 🔹 Check the thickness of the ice on the walls (if more than 5 mm, defrosting is needed)
- 🔹 Make sure that the food does not touch evaporator (this accelerates icing)
Problems with the magnetic valve (in models with Full No Frost). This valve switches the flow of refrigerant between the refrigerator and freezer compartments. When worn, it begins to crack when triggered. A dangerous sign is if the refrigerator stopped freezingbut the light inside is on.
4. The influence of the brand and model on the noise level
The noise level of a refrigerator depends on its design and cooling technology. The table below shows a comparison of popular brands by the “loudness” of cod:
| Brand/Technology | Typical sounds | When crackling is normal | When crackling is dangerous |
|---|---|---|---|
| Samsung No Frost | Fan clicks, crackling during defrosting | When turning on/off, during auto defrosting | If the crackling is accompanied by an error 5E or 8E on the display |
| LG Inverter Linear | High-frequency squeak of the compressor, rare clicks | When changing the cooling mode | If the compressor crackles for more than 10 seconds in a row |
| ATLANT/Indesit (drip system) | Crackling of ice in the drainage, crunching of plastic | After defrosting in the first 2-3 hours | If the cracking does not stop for a day or more |
| Liebherr (premium segment) | Quiet cracking of the case when heated | In the first weeks after purchase | If the sound became louder after 1 year of operation |
Refrigerators with inverter compressors (Panasonic NR-BN30A1, Hitachi R-VG430PUC6) are usually quieter than classic ones, but can emit high-frequency squeaking at power adjustment. This is not a breakdown, but a feature of the operation of the electronic control unit.
In models with two compressors (Samsung RT-43K6030S8, Gorenje RK 6292 AW), the crackling noise can come from synchronizing the operation of the motors. If both compressors turn on simultaneously, double clicks of the relay are heard.
5. Diagnosis of the problem: what to check first
To understand why the refrigerator is cracking, follow these simple steps:
Make sure the refrigerator is level (adjust the legs)
Check whether food is touching the back wall or the fan
Turn off the refrigerator for 10 minutes and listen to see if the cracking has stopped
Inspect the door seal for damage
Check the temperature in the chambers (must correspond to the set one)-->
Checking the compressor:
- Disconnect the refrigerator from the mains.
- Remove the back cover (in some models, just listen to the bottom of the case).
- Turn on the refrigerator and listen:
- 🔹 Single click at startup - normal.
- 🔹 Multiple crackling noises —relay or compressor malfunction.
Checking the No Frost system:
- Open the freezer and listen.
- If the crackling noise comes from behind the back wall, the problem is in the fan or evaporator.
- Try to manually turn the fan blades (by turning off refrigerator!). If they do not rotate, they need replacement.
Drainage system test:
- Pour 50 ml of warm water into the drainage hole (located on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment).
- If the water does not go away or flows out slowly, the drainage is clogged.
- Clean the hole with a wire or a special brush (included with some models).
6. When to call a technician: critical signs
Some symptoms require urgent repairs. Immediately unplug the refrigerator and call a specialist if:
⚠️ Attention: If a cracking sound is accompanied smell of burning or smoke is a sign of a short circuit. Do not try to repair it yourself, there is a risk of fire!
- 🔹 Refrigerator does not cool, but the light inside is on and there is no crackling noise stops.
- 🔹 Flashes on the display error code (for example,
E1,F5,H1—for decoding, see the instructions for the model). - 🔹 The refrigerator body electric shock when touched.
- 🔹 The crackling became louder after power surge (for example, after turning off the lights).
- 🔹 From under the refrigerator oily liquid is flowing (a sign of a refrigerant leak).
The cost of repairs depends on the breakdown:
- 🔹 Replacement of the start relay - 1 500–3 000 ₽.
- 🔹 Repair of the compressor - 5 000–12 000 ₽ (depending on the model).
- 🔹 Replacement of the No Frost fan - 3 000–6 000 ₽.
- 🔹 Elimination of freon leakage + refilling - 7 000–15 000 ₽.
⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator is under warranty, do not disassemble it yourself this will void the warranty. Contact the brand's service center (Samsung, LG, ATLANT etc.) with a receipt and product passport.
7. Prevention: how to reduce the noise of a refrigerator
Following simple rules will help reduce noise levels and extend the life of equipment:
- 🔹 Installation by level: The refrigerator must stand level (check with a building level). The legs are adjusted with a key or manually.
- 🔹 Ventilation gaps: The distance to the wall is at least 5 cm, to the furniture - 10 cm. Otherwise, the compressor overheats and operates louder.
- 🔹 Regular defrosting: Even in models No Frost every 6-12 months you need to turn off the refrigerator to clean the evaporator.
- 🔹 Temperature control: Optimal settings -
+4°Cin the refrigerator compartment and–18°Cin the freezer. Lower values accelerate icing. - 🔹 Protection against power surges: Use a stabilizer or surge protector (especially important for houses with old wiring).
What NOT to do:
- 🔹 Place the refrigerator next to the stove, radiator or window (temperature changes increase the crackling of the plastic).
- 🔹 Close the ventilation grilles on the back wall (this leads to overheating of the compressor).
- 🔹 Use sharp objects to remove ice (can damage evaporator).
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about crackling in the refrigerator
❓ Does the refrigerator crack only at night - is this normal?
Yes, if the sound is not louder than during the day. At night, the house is quieter, so the usual clicks of relays or crackling of plastic are heard more clearly. Check if the refrigerator is touching furniture when vibrating - this may increase the noise. Also, nighttime crackling may be associated with automatic defrosting (in models No Frost it often occurs during periods of low energy consumption).
❓ After defrosting, the refrigerator began to crackle louder. What to do?
This is normal in the first 1–2 hours after switching on. The reason is thermal contraction of parts and the formation of ice on the evaporator. If the cracking does not stop for more than a day:
- Check that the condensate tray is installed correctly.
- Make sure that the drainage hole is not clogged.
- If the refrigerator No FrostThe evaporator heater may have broken (diagnostics is needed).
❓ Is a new refrigerator cracking - a defect or a feature?
In 90% of cases this is a feature. New refrigerators crack due to:
- 🔹 Shrinkage of the door seal (passes in 1–2 weeks).
- 🔹 Adaptation of plastic to temperature conditions.
- 🔹 Factory lubrication work c compressor (in the first days a slight cracking sound may be heard).
If the sound does not disappear after a month or becomes louder, contact the store under warranty.
❓ Is it possible to fix a cracking relay yourself?
Theoretically, yes, but not recommended without experience. The relay is a live part and improper repair may result in electric shock. If you still decide to try:
- Disconnect the refrigerator and discharge the capacitor (short-circuit it with an insulated screwdriver).
- Remove the relay (usually attached to the compressor with one screw).
- Check contacts for burning. If they are clean, the problem may be in the coil (the relay needs to be replaced).
For models ATLANT i Indesit the relay costs 500–1,500 ₽, for Samsung/LG — 1 500–3 000 ₽.
❓ The crackling sound is accompanied by vibration - what is it?
Probable causes:
- 🔹 Unbalanced compressor (you need to adjust the springs or shock absorbers).
- 🔹 Touching the circuit tubes about the housing (check if they are bent).
- 🔹 Wear of fan bearings (in models No Frost).
If the vibration is strong, turn off the refrigerator and check the compressor mounting. In some cases, placing rubber pads under the legs helps.