A sudden stop of the compressor or a characteristic hum without starting the cooling often indicates a malfunction of the starting mechanism. In domestic brand refrigerators Biryusa this unit is one of the most vulnerable elements of the electrical circuit. Understanding exactly where this component is located and how it functions is necessary for initial diagnosis and restoration of the equipment's performance.
In this article we will analyze in detail the design of the unit, methods for its visual and instrumental inspection, as well as an algorithm for action when defects are detected. Start-protective relay responsible for starting the engine and protecting the windings from overheating, so its serviceability is critical for the long service life of the unit. Ignoring the symptoms of a breakdown can lead to combustion of the compressor itself, which is a much more expensive problem.
Before proceeding with disassembly, you must completely disconnect the device from the power supply. Electrical safety is the first rule of any repair of household appliances. Even if the refrigerator is not working, residual currents may remain in the circuit or short circuits may occur if the wires are handled carelessly. Only after making sure that there is no voltage can you begin work on searching and dismantling the relay.
Principle of operation and functions of the unit
The starting protection relay is an electromechanical device that supplies a current pulse to the starting winding of the electric motor at the time of startup. As soon as the compressor rotor reaches the required speed, the relay opens the starting winding circuit, putting the engine into operating mode. In parallel with this, it performs the function of thermal protection, opening the contacts in case of excessive heating or current surges.
In modern and classic models Biryusa relays of the RT or P-1 series are most often used. Inside the housing there is a coil, a movable core and a bimetallic plate. When voltage is applied, current passes through the coil, creating a magnetic field that draws in the core and closes the contacts of the starting winding. If the engine does not start, the current remains high, and the thermal protection forcibly breaks the circuit.
The malfunction of this element is often confused with a breakdown of the compressor or thermostat itself. However, if you hear clicks, the hum of the motor lasting 3-5 seconds, and then silence, most likely the problem lies precisely in starting mechanism. It may “stick” when turned on or, conversely, not close the contacts due to wear.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to start the compressor bypassing the relay by connecting power directly to the windings. This is guaranteed to lead to overheating and combustion of the motor in a matter of seconds, since the starting winding is not designed for long-term operation.
To understand the processes inside the unit, it is useful to know that there are induction and posistor types of relays. Refrigerators Biryusa traditionally use induction models, where the mechanical movement of the core plays a key role. Posistor analogues, which work based on changes in the resistance of ceramics when heated, are less common and usually in newer modifications.
The exact location of the relay in the refrigerator
To find the start-up relay, you do not need to disassemble the entire refrigerator. This component is always attached directly to the compressor housing, which is located at the lower rear of the unit. On models Turk it is usually accessed by removing the rear metal cover or cardboard panel.
On the side or bottom of the black cylindrical compressor tank you will see a plastic or metal casing. It is inside this casing that the required relay is hidden. It fits directly onto the three contact pins coming out of the motor housing. Fastening can be achieved through a tight fit, spring latches or a screw connection.
In some older models Turk the relay can be placed on a separate terminal block next to the compressor, but this is rather an exception. The standard layout involves a rigid combination of “compressor-relay-thermal relay”. Removal often requires removing the retaining bracket or strip that holds the entire assembly in place.
When examining the back panel, pay attention to the presence of condensation or traces of oil. If there is moisture around the compressor, the system may be sealed, but this will not affect the location of the electrical components. The main thing is to ensure that your hands and tools are dry before starting work.
Dismantling algorithm and visual inspection
The process of removing the relay requires care, since plastic cases become fragile over time. First you need to disconnect the wires going to the terminals. It is recommended to first photograph the connection diagram or sketch it so that during assembly you do not confuse the phase, neutral and ground contacts.
After disconnecting the wires, remove the retaining bar or spring. Then, using a gentle rocking motion, remove the relay from the compressor studs. Do not use excessive force: if the element does not fit, it may be stuck or clamped by an additional fastener that you may have missed. Visual inspection begins immediately after removal.
- 🔍 Integrity of the case: Check the plastic for cracks, melts or burn marks. A blackened case indicates a short circuit or overheating.
- 🔍 Contact condition: There should be no oxides, soot or molten metal inside. The contacts must be clean and elastic.
- 🔍 The sound of a posistor: If you shake the relay next to your ear, you should not hear the rattling of detached parts inside. Although a slight sound of the core moving is acceptable in some models, a loud knock is a bad sign.
Pay special attention to the hole that fits onto the compressor. There are moving contacts inside it. If they have a black coating or pitting from sparking, the device requires replacement. Cleaning contacts with sandpaper at home gives only a temporary effect and is not recommended for long-term use.
☑️ Checklist before dismantling
Diagnostics with a multimeter and performance check
Visual inspection does not always give an accurate answer, so for reliable diagnosis necessary multimeter. Switch the device to resistance measurement mode (Ohms). First check the circuit between the contacts that connect to the starting and working windings. In good condition, the resistance should be close to zero or several Ohms.
Then turn the relay to a position that simulates its operation on a compressor (usually the “UP” marking should face up). In this position the circuit should be open (infinite resistance). If you turn it “down”, the contacts should close. Lack of response or a constant “break” indicates a malfunction of the mechanical part or coil.
The thermal relay is checked separately, which is often built into the same housing as the starting one or adjacent to it. Call his contacts: they should be short calls. If the multimeter shows an open circuit, it means that the thermal protection has tripped and does not return to its original state, or the nichrome thread inside has burned out.
| Test type | Normal reading | Failure sign | Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| Coil resistance | Several Ohms (up to 50 Ohms) | Infinity or 0 Ohm | Replacing the relay |
| Thermal relay contacts | 0 Ohm (closed) | Circuit break | Replacement or cooling |
| Posistor (if any) | 10-50 Ohm in a cold state | Short circuit | Element replacement |
| Case insulation | Infinity | Breakage to the body | Urgent replacement |
If you just tried to turn on the refrigerator, the thermal relay may be warmed up and show an open circuit, which is normal for a hot state. Give it 15-20 minutes to cool before checking again.
Selection of an analogue and replacement of the component
When purchasing a new relay, matching parameters is critical. There is always a marking on the body of the part, for example, RT-1, RTK-1-3, R-1 or 600K. These codes indicate the operating current and type of compressor compatible. For refrigerators Biryusa most often suitable are relays designed for starting current in the range of 1.3–1.6 Amperes.
Universal relays with adjustable current settings are rare and require precise calibration, so it is better to look for an original analogue or a high-quality substitute from well-known brands such as Danfoss or Embraco, if they fit the mounting dimensions. Do not try to install a relay with a high operating current “by eye” - this will lead to burning of the windings.
The process of installing a new element is the reverse of dismantling. Push the relay onto the compressor studs until it stops. Make sure that the marking UP or the arrow is directed strictly vertically upward, since the operation of the mechanism depends on gravity. Incorrect orientation will result in the relay not being able to close or open the circuit at the right time.
⚠️ Attention: The technical characteristics of compressors in different batches of Biryusa refrigerators may vary. Always check the markings of the old relay with the catalog data of the new one before purchasing, even if they look identical in appearance.
After installation, connect the wires according to the diagram or photograph made earlier. Make sure the terminals are tight and not loose. Poor contact will result in sparking, heating and repeated failure in a short time. Secure the assembly with a clamping bar.
Typical repair mistakes and prevention
One of the most common mistakes is ignoring the condition of the compressor itself. If the motor is “jammed” mechanically, the new relay will operate and knock out the protection endlessly until it burns out on its own. Therefore, before replacing the relay, it is useful to check whether the motor shaft is jammed by trying (carefully!) to turn it, if there is access, or by measuring the resistance of the windings.
Also, craftsmen often forget about the capacitor, if it is present in the circuit. In some models Biryusa a starting capacitor helps start the motor. If it swells or loses capacity, the relay will operate in emergency mode. Checking the capacitor should be a mandatory diagnostic step.
- 🛠️ Ignoring cleanliness: Dust and fluff accumulating on the rear grille impair the cooling of the compressor, causing the relay to operate in overheated conditions. Vacuum the back wall regularly.
- 🛠️ Incorrect orientation: Installing the relay upside down or on its side disrupts the mechanics of the core travel. Always monitor the vertical position.
- 🛠️ Using electrical tape: Fixing a loose relay with electrical tape instead of eliminating the cause of the play is a temporary measure that often leads to broken contacts.
Prevention of breakdowns is to ensure good ventilation of the rear wall of the refrigerator. Do not move the unit close to the wall, leave a gap of at least 10 cm. This will help reduce the temperature in the compressor area and extend the life of not only the relay, but also the entire refrigeration unit.
Why does the new relay burn out immediately after installation?
If the new relay burns out instantly, most likely the compressor itself is faulty (interturn short circuit) or critical voltage surges are observed in the network. Also, the reason may be incorrect selection of the operating current.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Can it be repaired old relay, or just change it?
Theoretically, you can disassemble the relay, clean the contacts with fine sandpaper and put it back together. However, this is a temporary measure. The spring loses its elasticity, and the plastic ages. For reliable operation of the refrigerator Biryusa a complete replacement of the unit is recommended, since the cost of the part is low compared to the risk of fire or compressor failure.
Why does the Biryusa refrigerator click and does not turn on?
Characteristic Clicks at intervals of 1-2 minutes indicate that the relay is trying to start the compressor, but the protection is triggered due to overload. This may be caused by a malfunction of the relay itself, jamming of the compressor or low voltage in the network.
Where to buy an original relay for Biryusa?
Original spare parts can be found in specialized refrigeration equipment stores or official service centers. Universal analogues are also suitable if their parameters (starting current) match the markings of your part. Popular brands of compatible relays: Danfoss, Leroi, Indesit (for certain models).
Is it dangerous to change a relay yourself?
Replacing a relay is safe if you strictly follow the rule of disconnecting from the power supply. There is no high voltage inside the refrigerator after unplugging. The only danger is careless handling of the tool or an attempt to repair under voltage.