Brand refrigerators Indesit are deservedly popular due to their reliability and simplicity of design, but even the highest quality equipment fails over time. One of the most common reasons why the unit stops freezing or, conversely, begins to freeze food to the point of stone, is a breakdown of the thermostat. This small device is responsible for monitoring the temperature inside the chambers and gives the command to the compressor to turn on or off.
If you notice that your Indesit refrigerator works without interruptions or turns on too rarely, you should not immediately call a technician and prepare for expensive repairs. In most cases, replacing a thermostat is a procedure that you can do yourself with a minimum set of tools and basic skills in handling electrical appliances. The main thing is to observe safety precautions and strictly follow the algorithm of actions.
In this article we will look in detail at how to determine that the thermostat is the culprit of the malfunction, how to select the correct spare part and carry out replacement without damaging other components of the refrigeration unit. Properly performed repairs will extend the life of your equipment and save the family budget.
Symptoms of a malfunctioning thermostat
Before disassembling the equipment, you need to make sure of the diagnosis. Thermostat is a mechanical or electronic relay that opens and closes an electrical circuit depending on the temperature. When it fails, the behavior of the refrigerator becomes inadequate. The most striking sign is the continuous operation of the motor-compressor: the unit hums, trying to cool the chamber, but does not turn off, since the sensor does not send a signal that the desired degree has been reached.
The opposite situation also indicates a problem: the refrigerator is silent and does not start, even if it is already warm inside. In this case, the circuit may be broken inside the sensor itself, and the start command simply does not arrive. It is also worth paying attention to the condition of the products: if they deteriorate faster than usual in the refrigerator compartment or, conversely, vegetables at the back wall are covered with ice, this is direct evidence of a malfunction in the thermoregulation system.
Sometimes the malfunction is accompanied by external signs. For example, if the capillary tube of a thermostat is damaged, freon gas used as a working fluid may leak out of it, which will render the device inoperable. In models with mechanical control, the regulator knob can dangle or rotate without characteristic clicks, which should be heard when changing position.
- 🔊 The compressor operates continuously, without shutdown cycles, trying to gain temperature.
- 🌡️ The temperature in the chamber does not correspond to the set value on the regulator.
- 🧊 The appearance of excessive ice or, conversely, a complete lack of cold when the engine is running.
- 🔌 The refrigerator does not turn on at all, although the indicators are on and there is current in the socket.
It is important to distinguish a thermostat breakdown from other problems, such as a refrigerant leak or malfunction start relay. If the motor hums, clicks and immediately stalls, the problem is most likely in the relay or windings. If it works “wear and tear” or is silent, look for the reason in temperature sensor.
⚠️ Attention: Before any diagnostics and work inside the refrigerator, be sure to disconnect the device from the power supply! Working with live electrical components is deadly.
Choosing the right spare part for the Indesit model
The spare parts market for household appliances offers many options, however Indesit it is important to choose a compatible analogue, since original spare parts can be unreasonably expensive or be discontinued. Thermostats differ in the length of the capillary tube, the type of contacts (normally closed or open), the method of fastening and the operating temperature range. Installing an unsuitable part will lead to incorrect operation or rapid failure of the new component.
Most often, Indesit refrigerators use Italian-made thermostats Ranco or Orbital, as well as their Chinese counterparts. The key parameter is labeling. On the case of an old device there is always a code starting with a letter (K, L, M, T, etc.) followed by numbers. For example, the widespread K59 series or L-series. The first letter indicates the temperature regime, and the numbers indicate the length of the tube and the type of rod.
When purchasing, pay attention to the length of the capillary tube. If the new tube is shorter than the old one, the sensor may not reach the desired area or, conversely, form a loop that will be damaged during installation. If it is longer, the excess can be carefully rolled into a ring, but kinks and creases should not be allowed, since there is a sensitive gas inside the tube.
It is also important to consider the number of contacts. In simple single-chamber models or refrigerators with a drip defrosting system, two contacts are usually used. In units with a system No Frost or a super-freezing function, there may be three or four contacts. Before removing the old thermostat, take a photo of the connection diagram or remember the color of the wires going to each terminal.
Necessary tools and preparation for repair
To successfully replace the thermostat, you do not need complex professional tools. A standard DIY kit is sufficient. The main thing is to prepare a work area with good lighting, since the internal components of the refrigerator are often hidden in hard-to-reach niches, and any small part that falls on the floor can create unnecessary problems.
You will need a flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers to remove panels and unscrew the mounting screws. Also have side cutters or pliers ready to work with the terminals, as well as a multimeter (tester) to check the continuity of the circuit if you want to double-check the diagnosis. It will not be superfluous to have a container for collecting water if ice has accumulated inside the chamber during the defrosting process.
Be sure to completely defrost the refrigerator before starting work. Even if you think there is no ice, moisture inside the insulation or in the drainage channels when heated can leak and damage the wiring or electronic board. Leave the unit turned off for at least 10-12 hours, preferably a day, so that it completely warms up to room temperature.
☑️ Preparation for repair
Removing the old thermostat
The dismantling process depends on the location of the thermostat in your model Indesit. In most refrigerators with a drip system, it is located inside the refrigerator compartment, on the right or left at the top, often hidden by a plastic cover or built into the temperature control knob. In models with No Frost the sensor can be located behind the rear panel or in the area of the ceiling light.
First remove the temperature control knob. It can simply pull towards itself or be fixed with a locking screw, which needs to be unscrewed with a thin screwdriver. Under the handle you will see a plastic thermostat housing. Carefully press the latches or unscrew the screws holding the casing to gain access to the electrical contacts and the capillary tube entry point.
Remove the terminals from the thermostat contacts. Do this carefully, swinging them from side to side so as not to damage the wires. Remember or take a photo of which wire is connected where. Then find the place where the capillary tube exits the chamber. Usually it passes through a hole in the housing or a special channel. Carefully pull out the tube, being careful not to damage it or catch other elements.
In some cases, the tube may be glued to the evaporator or secured with a clamp. If a clamp is used, it must be released. If the tube is glued in, be as gentle as possible so as not to deform the thin copper. After removing the tube, unscrew the screws securing the thermostat block itself to the chamber wall and remove it.
What to do if the tube breaks off?
If the capillary tube breaks or is damaged during dismantling, do not try to glue or solder it yourself. There is a special gas under pressure inside, and the seal is broken. In this case, you will have to buy a new thermostat with a whole tube, since repairing the old one is not economically feasible and is technically difficult without special equipment.
Installation of a new temperature sensor
Installation of a new thermostat is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. First of all, it is necessary to correctly place the capillary tube. It must be inserted into the chamber to the same depth as the old one and secured in the same position. The end of the tube (bellows) must fit tightly to the surface of the evaporator or be in a special channel in order to correctly read the temperature.
Fix the thermostat housing in its original place using screws. Make sure it fits snugly and does not wobble, as vibrations from the compressor can loosen the mount over time. Then connect the electrical wires to the contacts. This is where it is critical to follow the color coding or pattern you captured earlier. An incorrect connection can result in a short circuit or failure of the compressor.
If your new thermostat has a third pin (usually labeled L or number 3), it is often used to connect the indicator light or super freeze function. In simple circuits, this contact may remain free, but it is better to check the electrical diagram of your model Indesit, which is often pasted on the inner wall or in the instructions.
After connecting all the wires, reinstall the plastic casing and adjustment knob. Make sure the handle turns freely and clicks. Do not turn on the refrigerator immediately. Let it stand turned off for another 15-20 minutes so that all components fall into place and calm down after installation.
⚠️ Attention: The capillary tube of the thermostat is very thin and sensitive to creases. When installing, make sure that the bending radius is not too small, otherwise the tube will break and the device will stop working.
Checking performance and setting
After assembly, turn on the refrigerator. During the first minutes of operation, listen to see if the compressor has started. If you hear the characteristic hum of the motor, it means that the electrical circuit is closed correctly. Now you need to check how the shutdown system works. Set the control knob to the middle position (usually the number 3 or 4).
Let the refrigerator operate for several hours. It should reach temperature and turn off. If after 40-60 minutes of operation the motor continues to hum without interruption, the new thermostat may not be suitable for the temperature range or the tube may not be installed correctly. If the refrigerator does not start at all, check the reliability of the contacts and the integrity of the wiring with a multimeter.
You can use an external thermometer to fine-tune the temperature inside the chamber. Place it in a glass of water on the middle shelf and leave it for several hours. The normal temperature in the refrigerator compartment should be from +2 to +6 degrees Celsius. Adjust the position of the thermostat knob, achieving optimal values.
Typical mistakes when doing it yourself replacement
Independent repair is always a risk of making a mistake, which can cost more than calling a specialist. One of the most common mistakes is ignoring complete defrosting. An attempt to pick ice with a knife or cut a frozen “coat” often leads to damage to the evaporator, which is fatal for the refrigerator. Repairing the evaporator requires expensive refilling with freon and welding work.
Another common mistake is the incorrect selection of an analogue. Owners often buy the first thermostat they come across with similar markings, without paying attention to the tube length or temperature range. As a result, the refrigerator either freezes too weakly or turns the chamber into a freezer. Always check the complete part code.
Careless handling of wires is also dangerous. If the wire insulation is damaged during installation, a short circuit may occur to the metal body of the refrigerator. This will not only dislodge the plugs, but may also damage the electronic control board if your model has one. All connections must be securely fixed.
The following table can help you compare symptoms with possible causes so that you can be confident in the diagnosis before starting work.
| Symptom | Possible cause | Action |
|---|---|---|
| The refrigerator does not turn on, there is no light | No power, the cord is burned out | Check the socket and cable |
| It buzzes, but does not start | Faulty start relay | Replace the start relay |
| Works without stopping | Faulty thermostat | Replace the thermostat |
| It gets very cold, ice freezes | Thermostat contacts are stuck | Replace the thermostat |
| It buzzes and turns off after 10 seconds | The compressor is stuck | Call a technician (complex repair) |
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to temporarily close the thermostat contacts to make the refrigerator work?
Technically, you can close the contacts, and the compressor will start in continuous operation. However, this is an emergency measure and is strictly not recommended for long-term use. The refrigerator will stop turning off, which will lead to freezing of food, icing of the chamber and, ultimately, to overheating and combustion of the compressor. Use this method only for short-term storage of food until spare parts arrive.
Why does the new thermostat click, but the refrigerator does not turn on?
If you hear a click, it means the mechanical part is working, but the circuit is not closing. There may be several reasons: the contacts inside the new device have oxidized (defective), the wires are connected incorrectly, or the problem lies not in the thermostat, but in the start relay or the compressor itself. It is also worth checking the integrity of the wires going to the thermostat.
How can you tell if the thermostat tube is installed at insufficient depth?
If the tube is inserted too short, the sensor will read the air temperature in the chamber, not the evaporator temperature. This will lead to the refrigerator turning off too early, without having time to gain cold, or, conversely, working longer than necessary. Food will spoil or freeze unevenly. The tube must be in close contact with the cooling element.
How long does the thermostat on an Indesit refrigerator last on average?
The average service life of a mechanical thermostat is from 5 to 10 years, depending on the intensity of use and power surges in the network. Frequent voltage surges can melt the contacts inside the device, reducing its service life. Electronic sensors (thermistors) usually last longer, but are more sensitive to humidity.
Does the system need to be charged with freon after replacing the thermostat?
No, replacing the thermostat does not affect the refrigerant circuit. You are only working with the electrical part and the capillary tube of the sensor, which is sealed and not connected to the internal cooling system of the refrigerator. Therefore, additional refilling with freon is not required if you did not damage the evaporator tubes during the installation process.