Faced with a situation where your Ariston refrigerator stops freezing and the motor is humming or, conversely, silent, many owners immediately begin to look for information about the starting relay. This small but critical element is responsible for starting the compressor motor. If it fails, the refrigerator cannot begin the cooling cycle, which threatens food spoilage. Understanding where this unit is located is the first step to successful independent repair.
In this article we will analyze in detail the design of refrigerators Ariston and accurately determine the location of the starting relay in various modifications. You will learn how to safely get to the compressor, how to distinguish a faulty relay from other breakdowns and what to look for during a visual inspection. Start relay is a consumable item that often needs to be replaced, and this can be done without calling a technician if you act carefully.
Don’t panic, hearing clicks or noticing that the refrigerator only turned on for a few seconds. Most often, the problem lies precisely in the contact group or the winding of the relay coil. Correct diagnostics will save you money on buying a new compressor, which is the most expensive component of the unit. Let's figure out where to look for this component and how to make sure that the problem is in it.
Design and role of the starting relay in the system
To understand where to look for the part, you need to imagine its function. Starting relay in refrigerators Ariston (as in most classic models) serves for short-term connection compressor motor starting winding. When the motor is turned on, a large torque is required, which is provided by the starting winding. As soon as the rotor reaches the required speed, the relay opens the circuit and the engine continues to operate on the main winding.
Modern and classic models use different types of relays. The most common devices are those with a posistor (solid-state) or electromagnetic. PTC relays are more compact and reliable; they have no moving mechanical parts inside the housing, except contacts. Electromagnetic ones operate due to the current passing through the coil, which draws in the core. In Ariston refrigerators of the last 15 years, posistor starting relays of the R600a or R134a series are most often used, depending on the type of refrigerant.
The location of this element is always tied to the compressor, since it is directly connected to its terminals. The compressor is usually located at the lower rear of the unit. The relay fits directly onto the contact pins coming out of the motor housing and is secured with a bracket or plastic holder. This is done to minimize the length of the wires and ensure reliable electrical contact.
⚠️ Attention: Before any manipulations with the electrical components of the refrigerator, be sure to unplug the device! Even after turning off, a charge may remain in the capacitors that can cause an unpleasant electric shock.
Exact location: where to look on different models
Regardless of your model of the Ariston refrigerator, the search algorithm always starts from the back wall. You will need to move the unit away from the wall, allowing access to the rear. The compressor (black metal “tank”) is located in a niche at the bottom of the housing. It is on it, on one of the sides (usually left or right, when viewed from behind), that the desired device is fixed.
The starting relay is a plastic box, often black or white, about the size of a matchbox or a little larger. It fits directly onto the three pins protruding from the compressor. The power cable from the thermostat or electronic control module is connected to the side of the relay. In some models Ariston the relay may be hidden under an additional protective cover or metal bracket, which must be carefully bent or unscrewed.
If you see next to the relay another small round or oval element (often white or silver) with two contacts, this is a thermal protection relay. In modern designs they are often combined into a single block, but they can also stand separately. Your goal is precisely the starting part, which has a larger body and a connector for connecting wires.
Instructions for dismantling and access to the part
To remove the relay you will need a minimum set of tools: flat and Phillips screwdrivers, and possibly pliers. The dismantling process does not require special skills, but requires attention to fastening details. First, make sure that the refrigerator is completely defrosted and dry so that water does not get on the electrical contacts.
The sequence of actions for removing the protective casing and the relay itself:
- 🔌 Disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply and move it away from the wall for free access.
- 🔧 Remove the back metal or cardboard panel covering the compressor area (if there is one) by unscrewing the fastening screws.
- 📸 Take a photo of connecting the wires to the relay before removing, so as not to confuse them when installing a new element.
- 🖐️ Carefully remove the plastic casing of the relay. In some models Ariston it is held on a spring bracket, which needs to be pressed out with a screwdriver, or on latches.
- 🔌 Disconnect the block with the wires that go to the relay. Do not pull on the wires themselves, only grab the plastic connector.
- 🔄 Remove the relay from the compressor pins. It may sit tightly, so slightly rock it from side to side, pulling upward.
☑️ Checklist before removing the relay
After removal, carefully inspect the inside of the relay. If it is a posistor device, you will see a ceramic element and contacts inside. If electromagnetic - a coil and a movable core. The presence of traces of burning, melting of plastic or a characteristic burning smell indicates a breakdown.
Fault diagnosis: how to check the relay
Before buying a new part, you need to make sure that the problem is in the relay, and not in the compressor or wiring. The simplest method of initial diagnosis is a visual inspection and the “rattlesnake test.” Shake the relay near your ear: if you hear a ringing or knocking sound inside the ceramic posistor, it means that it has cracked due to overheating or shock, and the part requires replacement.
A more accurate diagnosis can be carried out using a multimeter. You need to check the continuity of contacts and resistance. In the normal state, the resistance between the contacts should be close to zero (or correspond to the value specified in the documentation), and when heated (to test the posistor) it should go to infinity. If the multimeter shows an open where there should be a circuit, or a short circuit, the relay is faulty.
Also pay attention to the condition of the contacts. Carbon deposits or oxidation may prevent current flow. In some cases, the contacts can be carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper, but if the plastic has melted, it is better not to risk it and replace the entire assembly. Compressor is an expensive unit, and a bad relay can cause its failure due to constant attempts to start.