A problem with maintaining the temperature is a signal that cannot be ignored. If your refrigerator Atlant stops freezing or, conversely, turns food into an ice block, the first suspect becomes thermostat. It is this unit that is responsible for turning the compressor on and off, maintaining a given cold balance. However, before you run for a new part, you need to accurately determine its location, which may differ significantly depending on the model and year of manufacture of your unit.
Understanding that where is the thermostatis critically important for conducting high-quality diagnostics. An erroneous search in the wrong place will not only waste your time, but can also damage the plastic parts of the case or wiring. In this article we will analyze in detail the design features of various series of refrigerators Atlantso that you can quickly and safely get to the desired element.
It is worth noting that in modern models the classic mechanical thermostat is often replaced by an electronic control unit or temperature sensor (NTC). Therefore, if you cannot find the usual “twist” or a housing with a capillary tube, you should not panic. In two-chamber models with the No Frost system, the thermostat is often integrated into the electronic control board, and in the freezer it may not be present as a separate mechanical unit. Let's look at all the nuances one by one.
Design features of Atlant thermostats
Refrigerators of the Belarusian manufacturer Atlant are famous for their maintainability, but their internal layout has changed for decades. Classic mechanical thermostat is a sealed housing with a long capillary tube coming out of it. The end of this tube is attached to the evaporator, and it is the change in freon pressure inside the tube that causes the contacts inside the housing to close or open. In older models, this unit is usually hidden behind a plastic cover inside the refrigerator compartment.
In more modern series, especially in two-chamber models with a bottom freezer, control is often taken over by electronic module. In such cases, there may be no mechanical switch with an adjustment knob on the front panel at all, or it may be made in the form of a potentiometer hidden under a decorative cover. Temperature sensors in such systems are scattered in different zones: one monitors the air in the refrigerator compartment, the other monitors the temperature of the evaporator in the freezer.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work to find the thermostat, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Even if you only plan to remove the plastic cover, accidental damage to live wiring can result in a short circuit or electric shock.
Differences in location also depend on the type of defrost. In models with manual defrosting or a drip system (“crying evaporator”), the thermostat is most often located in the upper part of the refrigerator compartment. In systems No Frost the operating logic is different: here the thermostat (or sensor) can be hidden deep behind the back wall, next to the evaporator, where access without partial disassembly of the case is limited.
What is the difference between a thermostat and a temperature sensor?
Mechanical The thermostat physically breaks the electrical circuit by opening contacts at a certain temperature. The electronic sensor (thermistor) only changes its resistance, transmitting a signal to the control board, which already makes the decision to turn on the compressor.
Location in single-chamber refrigerator models
Owners of classic single-chamber refrigerators Atlant (KSh, KShD, MHM-1700 series and the like) are lucky most of all: here the search thermostat usually takes a matter of minutes. In the vast majority of these models, the unit is located inside the fridge compartment. You do not need to move the unit from the wall or remove the back metal panel.
The standard installation location is the upper left or right corner of the camera, directly under the ceiling. The thermostat is covered with a plastic casing, which also serves as a base for mounting the lighting lamp. To get to it, you need to carefully pry and remove this lampshade. Under it you will see the thermostat (black or white rectangular block) and the wires suitable for it.
In some modifications, especially in older Soviet versions or their direct successors, the thermostat can be moved outside. Look for a small box on the outside wall of the case, usually at the top, near where the electrical cable exits. However, products Atlant of the last 20-30 years are characterized by an internal arrangement, which simplifies replacement, but requires caution when working inside the chamber so as not to damage the shelves or glass partitions.
If you removed the lampshade, but did not see anything there except a lamp and wires going deep into the wall, then your case is non-standard. In rare models, the thermostat may be “recessed” into the heat-insulating foam behind the rear wall of the chamber, and to replace it, you will need to completely dismantle the internal plastic lining. This is a labor-intensive process that requires care not to break the plastic latches.
Searching for a thermostat in two-chamber refrigerators
Two-chamber models Atlant (MXM-2800, 4000, 6000 series and the new 8000 series) have more complex architecture. It is important to understand here: the thermostat in the classical sense (with an adjustment knob) in two-chamber models with a separate freezer is most often located in refrigerator compartment. The freezer compartment in such systems usually does not have its own mechanical regulator; its temperature is set proportionally to the operation of the main circuit.
Localization in two-chamber units is similar to single-chamber ones: the upper part of the refrigerator compartment. However, the design of the lampshades here can be more complex. Sometimes the temperature control knob is located on the front panel (inner wall of the chamber), and the thermostat body itself is hidden behind the rear plastic panel. To get to it, you may need to remove the top shelf and unscrew several screws holding the decorative trim.
- 🔍 Upper corner: Classic location under or next to the lamp shade.
- ❄️ Rear wall: In some models, access is achieved after removing the inner panel of the rear wall of the refrigerator compartment.
- 🎚️ Control panel: In models with electronic control, there may be no mechanical thermostat at all; its function is performed by a board and sensors.
Particular attention should be paid to models with a system No Frost. A mechanical thermostat is rarely found in them. Instead, air dampers and electronic sensors work. If you are looking for where the thermostat is in Atlant No Frostand do not find it in the usual place, most likely it simply is not there. The temperature problem in such models is solved by replacing the defrost sensor or the main temperature sensor, which are often located behind the rear panel of the freezer, where the air duct leads.
Dismantling and access to the unit: step-by-step instructions
Receipt process access thermostat requires a minimal set of tools: usually a flat-head and Phillips screwdriver, as well as pliers, are sufficient. The main rule is not to use excessive force. Plastic that has been exposed to low temperatures and vibrations for years becomes brittle. Any sudden jerk can lead to a crack, which will then be difficult to seal unnoticed.
Start by freeing up your workspace. Remove all food from the top of the refrigerator compartment and remove the top shelf. If the thermostat is covered by a lampshade, carefully press out the latches. In models Atlant the lampshade is often held on by latches or one screw hidden under a decorative plug. After removing the lampshade, you will see the thermostat housing.
To remove the device itself you need to:
- Take a photo of the wiring diagram (this is critically important!).
- Remove the temperature control knobs (if they are removable) by pulling them yourself.
- Unscrew the fastening screws holding the thermostat housing to the chamber wall.
- Carefully pull the capillary tube out of the hole in the wall. Special care is needed here: the tube is very thin and can easily be pinched or burst.
⚠️ Attention: The capillary tube of a new thermostat is often longer than that of the old one. Do not cut it or twist it into tight rings under any circumstances! Excess tube should be carefully laid around the perimeter inside the chamber or behind the back panel, making sure that it does not touch moving parts or hot elements (if there are any nearby).
If access to the thermostat is blocked by the inner lining of the chamber, the process becomes more complicated. You will have to remove all visible screws on the back wall, remove the top panel (lid) of the refrigerator, and possibly remove the door hinges to remove the plastic frame. In such cases, it is recommended to keep a log, writing down or photographing which screw was unscrewed from where, since they may have different lengths and threads.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling the thermostat
Diagnostics: how to understand that the thermostat is broken
Before Before changing a part, you need to be sure of the diagnosis. Symptoms of a faulty thermostat may be similar to compressor problems or freon leaks. However, there are characteristic signs. If the refrigerator compressor Atlant does not turn on at all, but the light is on and a quiet hum (or clicking) is heard, this often indicates an open circuit in the thermostat.
Second scenario: the refrigerator is working without stopping, a huge coat of ice “freezes”, the food in the refrigerator freezes. This indicates that the thermostat contacts are “stuck” in the closed state, and it does not give a command to turn off the compressor. In the third case, there is chaotic switching on and off, when the refrigerator does not have time to reach the temperature and immediately stalls, or operates in jerks.
The most reliable way to check is with a multimeter. To do this, the thermostat must be removed (or access to its contacts must be provided). Switch the multimeter to resistance (ohms) measurement mode. At room temperature, the contacts of most thermostats should be closed (resistance close to zero). If you put the sensor (capillary tube) in the freezer or pour it with cold, the contacts should open (infinite resistance).
| Symptom | Probable cause | Action |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor is silent, no light | No power in the socket or the wire is burnt out | Check the socket and cable |
| The compressor is silent, the light is on | Thermostat or start relay is faulty | Ring the thermostat with a multimeter |
| Works non-stop, ice freezes | Thermostat contacts are stuck | Replacing the thermostat |
| On for 1 minute, off for 10 min | Problems with a thermal relay or compressor | Diagnostics of the compressor |
Nuances of choosing and installing a new part
When buying a new thermostat for Atlant it is not enough to know only the model of the refrigerator. It is important to pay attention to the labeling of the device itself. Thermostats vary in operating temperature range, capillary tube length, presence or absence of a “defroster” (defrosting contacts) and type of mounting. Installing an unsuitable part will lead to incorrect operation: either the refrigerator will freeze too little or will not turn off at all.
Pay attention to the color of the markings on the case. For example, for refrigerators Atlant thermostats of the TAM series (for example, TAM-133) or their analogues (K-59, K-50) are often used. The numbers and letters at the end of the marking indicate the tube length and temperature conditions. If you install a thermostat with a shorter tube, it may not be enough for installation, and if with a different range, the operating cycle will be disrupted.
When installing a new part, make sure that the tube entrance to the chamber is tight. The hole through which the capillary tube enters the refrigerator must be carefully sealed with plasticine or special mastic. If you leave a gap, warm air from the room will be constantly sucked in, causing abundant formation of condensation and ice, as well as causing the compressor to work with overload.
After replacing and assembling all the elements, turn on the refrigerator. Don't load it with products right away. Let it run idle for 2-3 hours to reach operating mode. Periodically check the operating cycle: the compressor should turn on, freeze, turn off and turn on again after a certain period of time. If the cycle is broken, it may be necessary to (adjust) the screw on the thermostat itself, but this should be done by an experienced technician.
⚠️ Attention: Do not attempt to adjust the thermostat if you are not sure of the thermometer readings. Incorrect settings can lead to food spoilage or compressor failure due to frequent starts. The factory setting is usually optimal.
Is it possible to temporarily close the thermostat?
Yes, if you connect the wires going to the thermostat, the compressor will run constantly. This can be used as a temporary measure to check the system or emergency freezing of food, but you cannot leave the refrigerator in this mode for a long time - it will not turn off, which will lead to icing and overload of the motor.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Where exactly is the thermostat in the Atlant refrigerator MXM-2808?
In the MXM-2808 model, the thermostat is located in the refrigerator compartment, in the upper right corner (if you look at the open door). It is covered with a plastic shade, inside of which there is also a lighting lamp. To gain access, you need to remove this lamp.
Why does the refrigerator not turn off after replacing the thermostat?
There may be several reasons: a thermostat is installed with an inappropriate temperature range; the capillary tube is not deeply immersed in the evaporator or is in poor contact with it; there is a gap in the chamber through which warm air leaks; or the problem is not in the thermostat at all, but in a freon leak.
Is it possible to replace a mechanical thermostat with an electronic one in Atlanta?
Theoretically it is possible, but technically difficult and economically impractical. This will require installing a control unit, re-soldering wires, installing new sensors and changing the housing design. It’s easier and cheaper to find an original mechanical analogue.
How can you tell if the capillary tube of the thermostat is damaged?
If gas comes out of the tube (you smell a specific smell or hear a hissing sound when bending), such a thermostat will not work. Another sign of damage may be the absence of a characteristic click when the tube cools. A damaged tube cannot be repaired; a complete replacement of the unit is required.
Does it need to defrost the refrigerator before replacing the thermostat?
Yes, definitely. Even if the thermostat is in the upper part, ice may fall from the evaporator during work, water may fall onto the electrical contacts or into the new thermostat, causing corrosion or a short circuit. It is better to let the refrigerator stand unplugged for at least 2-3 hours.