The situation when a two-chamber refrigerator Indesit continues freezing in the freezer, but the upper compartment stops cooling, is one of the most common complaints from owners of this equipment. The refrigerator compartment may show room temperature, while the food in the freezer remains solid. This is a classic symptom of a refrigerant circulation problem or a malfunction in the defrost system.
This problem cannot be ignored, since the products in the upper compartment will quickly deteriorate, and the compressor, working in increased mode, may burn out. Often the cause is a simple blockage or failure of the defrost heater, but there may also be more serious breakdowns that require the intervention of a technician.
In this article we will analyze in detail the main causes of the malfunction, explain the principle of operation of the system No Frost (if it is in your model) and give a step-by-step algorithm of actions. You will learn how to carry out initial diagnostics and whether it is worth trying to repair the unit yourself.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any diagnostic or repair work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator Indesit from the electrical network. Working with electrical appliances under voltage is dangerous to life.
The principle of operation of the cooling system and the distribution of cold
To understand why the upper compartment stopped cooling, you need to figure out how the cold gets there from the freezer. Most modern models Indesit use a system No Frost or a mixed type, where cold is generated in the freezer, and then a fan pumps it into the refrigerator compartment through special channels.
If the system works correctly, the air circulates in a closed circuit. However, if there is an obstruction somewhere - be it an ice block, a faulty fan or a clog in the capillary tube - the cold air simply does not reach the upper compartment. As a result, we see a picture: ice below, and heat above.
The key element here is the evaporator, located behind the back wall of the freezer. It is on this that frost freezes, which must periodically thaw. If the defrost cycle is broken, the evaporator becomes overgrown with a “fur coat”, blocking the access of air.
- ❄️ Fan: drives cold air from the freezer upward.
- 🧊 Evaporator: surface where freon boils and creates cold.
- 🔥 Defrost heating element: heating element that melts the ice on the evaporator.
- 🚪 Damper: regulates the amount of cold air supplied.
Failure to operate any of these components leads to a temperature imbalance. In models with a drip system (“crying” refrigerator), the problem may lie in a freon leak or a clogged capillary, which also disrupts heat transfer.
Clogged defrost system: the most common cause
If your Indesit is equipped with a system No Frost, then with There is an 80% chance that the problem lies in the defrost system. Any ice that forms on the evaporator must be melted regularly. A timer, a defrost sensor and a heater (heater) are responsible for this process.
When one of these elements fails, the ice does not melt, but accumulates. Sooner or later, the ice mass blocks the ventilation holes through which cold air should enter the refrigerator compartment. As a result, the fan hums, the freezer works hard, but the cold does not reach the upper part.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to pick out the ice with a knife or sharp objects! You can damage the evaporator tubes or puncture the housing, which will lead to an immediate leak of freon and expensive repairs.
For diagnostics, you must remove the back panel in the freezer. If you see a huge block of ice hiding the evaporator, then the defrost system is not functioning. Most often, it burns out on its own Heating element or the sensor fails, which “does not see” that it is time to turn on the heating.
How to check the heating element with a multimeter?
To check the heating element, you need to “ring” it with a multimeter in resistance measurement mode. If the device shows a break (infinity), it means that the heater has burned out and requires replacement. Normal resistance is usually from 200 to 500 Ohms.
Also the cause may be a malfunction of the defrost timer or an electronic control module that simply does not send a signal to turn on the heater at the right time. In this case, replacement of the control element is required.
Freon leakage and blockage of the capillary system
The second most popular reason why Indesit only the freezer freezes is a partial leak of refrigerant (freon) or a blockage of the capillary tube. Unlike problems with defrosting, here the symptoms develop gradually.
If freon leaks, its amount becomes insufficient to fully cool both compartments. Since the freezer compartment is smaller in volume and is located closer to the evaporator, it still “reaches” sub-zero temperatures, and in the refrigerator compartment the temperature already rises to positive temperatures.
- 📉 Performance drop: the compressor works constantly without turning off.
- 🔊 Noise: a characteristic gurgling or hissing.
- 🌡️ Temperature: it is warm in the refrigerator compartment, food is spoiling.
- 🧊 Ice: there may be less ice in the freezer than usual, or it may be soft.
Clogged capillary tube (often caused by moisture entering the system or compressor wear products) gives similar symptoms. Freon circulates, but cannot pass through the narrow section of the tube in the required volume.
| Symptom | Freon leakage | Capillary clogged | Defrost malfunction |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compressor operation | Continuous, non-stop | Cyclic, with hum | Cyclic, normal |
| Temperature in the freezer | Above normal (-5...-10°C) | Normal or higher | Normal or lower |
| Evaporator condition | Clean, no frost | Partially covered with frost | Completely covered in ice |
| Condenser temperature | Warm only at the entrance | Hot | Warm evenly |
It is difficult to diagnose a leak or blockage at home. It is often necessary to use special equipment to find the location of the leak and then refill the system. Self-charging with freon without evacuation of the system will lead to rapid breakdown of the compressor.
Malfunction of the fan and air damper
In models Indesit with the system No Frost the fan is responsible for moving cold air. If it stops working, cold air remains in the freezer compartment and does not enter the upper compartment at all.
The reason for the fan stopping may be freezing of its blades (if the defrosting system is broken) or failure of the motor itself. The bearing also often breaks, which is why the fan starts to hum, creak and eventually stops.
Another element is the air damper. It opens and closes at the command of the thermostat, regulating the air flow. If the damper is stuck closed, the refrigerator compartment will remain warm. This can happen due to mechanical damage or electronics failure.
You can check the fan visually (by removing the panel in the freezer) and by ear. If when the freezer door is open (where the door sensor button that starts the fan is often located), it does not make noise or spin, the problem has been found.
Problems with the thermostat and electronic module
The thermostat (thermostat) is the “brain” that tells the compressor when to turn on and off. If it is faulty and “thinks” that the refrigerator is already cold enough, it will not allow the compressor to start. However, in two-chamber systems with one compressor, this rarely leads to the situation “the freezer works, the refrigerator does not,” more often the refrigerator simply stops freezing altogether.
The problem is more pressing for electronic control systems. The control board may receive incorrect data from temperature sensors in the refrigerator compartment. If the sensor “lies” and shows that it is -5°C, the module will not supply cold.
In some cases, it is necessary to replace the temperature sensor or reflash/replace the control module itself. This is a complex diagnostic that requires knowledge in electronics.
- 🔧 Air sensor: measures the temperature inside the chamber.
- ❄️ Evaporator sensor: controls the degree of freezing.
- 🧊 Defrost sensor: turns off the heating element when the desired temperature is reached.
Often the error lies in the oxidation of the sensor contacts due to high humidity. A simple cleaning of the contacts can revive the device.
Algorithm for self-diagnosis and defrosting
Before calling a technician, try performing a complete defrost. This is the only safe way to eliminate a system glitch or ice jam. Many users ignore this step, wasting time and money.
You need to completely defrost the refrigerator within 24 hours (this is exactly the time it takes for the ice in the hidden channels of the evaporator to completely melt). Simply turning off for 2-3 hours is often not enough.
☑️ Action plan for defrosting
After defrosting, turn on the empty refrigerator. If after a few hours a normal temperature was established in both compartments, the problem was in the defrosting system (ice jam). If after 1-2 weeks the situation repeats, then you need to change the heating element, sensor or timer.
If, after defrosting, the refrigerator still does not start to freeze in the upper compartment, and the compressor is running constantly, there is likely a freon leak or a blockage. Here you can’t do without a master.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics and location of parts may vary depending on the specific series Indesit. Always check the official instructions for your model before disassembling.
When you need to call a specialist
Independent repair has its limits. If you do not have the skills to work with a multimeter, a soldering iron and do not know the structure of the refrigeration circuit, further actions can be dangerous.
A call to a specialist is necessary if:
- 🛠️ The compressor needs to be replaced or refilled with freon.
- 🔌 There is a suspicion of burnt-out control module.
- 🔊 A strong metallic knock or hum has appeared.
- 💧 An oil leak or a clear burning smell has been detected.
A professional technician will carry out diagnostics using a pressure gauge station, accurately determine the pressure in the system and localize leak. System repair No Frost often requires replacing several components at once (heating element + sensor + timer) so that the problem does not return in a month.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long should the defrost work for it to help?
To effectively remove the ice plug in the system channels No Frost the refrigerator must be turned off with open doors for at least 24 hours. A short-term defrosting of 2-3 hours often melts only visible ice, leaving a plug inside the air ducts.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if the freezer is working but the refrigerator is not?
For a short time, it is possible, but not for long. The compressor in this mode works without interruption, trying to reach the set temperature, which leads to its overheating and rapid failure. In addition, the food in the upper compartment will quickly spoil.
Why did everything work after defrosting, but a week later it stopped again?
This is a sure sign of a malfunction of the defrosting system. Defrosting eliminated the consequences (ice jam), but not the cause (burnt-out heating element, sensor or timer). Ice accumulated again and blocked the channels. Replacement of faulty elements is required.
Where is the defrost heating element in the Indesit refrigerator?
The heating element is usually located in the freezer, behind the rear plastic panel, at the bottom of the evaporator. To get to it, you need to remove the panel by first unscrewing the mounting screws and removing the shelves.
How expensive is it to repair the No Frost system?
The cost depends on the breakdown. Replacing a heating element or sensor is a relatively inexpensive repair. Replacing a compressor or eliminating a leak in the foamed part of the body (heat exchanger) can cost up to 70% of the price of a new refrigerator, which makes repairs economically unfeasible.