The situation when the location of the refrigerator in a new kitchen or after rearranging furniture becomes uncomfortable is familiar to many. A door that opens in the wrong direction blocks the passage or makes it difficult to open adjacent cabinets. Fortunately, most modern models, be it Indesit, Atlant or LG, provide the ability to change the opening side. This process is technically called "rehanging" and can be done at home.
However, before you grab the tools, it is important to understand that unit design this can vary significantly from manufacturer to manufacturer. In some places it is enough to simply rearrange the hinges, but in others you will need to dismantle the entire front panel and transfer the electronic components. Incorrect actions can lead to damage to the seal or even loss of tightness refrigerator compartment. Therefore, careful study of the nuances before starting work is the key to success.
In this article we will analyze a universal algorithm of actions that is suitable for most household models. We will consider the necessary tools, stages of dismantling and installation, and also pay attention to the features of models with system No Frost and electronic control. Following the instructions will help you save on calling a specialist and make the kitchen more ergonomic.
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
To perform quality work hanging doors you will need a minimum set of tools that can be found in the drawer of any home craftsman. The main tool will be a screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers with different bits (phillips and flat). You may also need an open-end wrench if the hinges are secured with bolts rather than screws. In some cases, especially with models Bosch or Siemens, you need a special hex key.
It is critically important to prepare a flat surface next to the refrigerator. Since door leaf has significant weight, it cannot simply be placed on the floor without the risk of damaging the coating or the door itself. Cover the floor with a thick blanket, cardboard or special rugs. This will protect both the kitchen flooring and the lower part of the unit from scratches and chips if parts accidentally fall.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Unplug from the outlet to reduce the risk of short circuit or electric shock, especially if you have to operate controls or lights.
Be sure to empty your freezer of food. This will not only make the design lighter, but will also prevent food spoilage during long periods of inactivity. If you have a two-chamber refrigerator, it is better to carry out the operation one by one: first with one door, then with the other, so as not to disturb the temperature regime throughout the entire volume. refrigerator compartment and a freezer for food. This will not only make the design lighter, but will also prevent food spoilage during long periods of inactivity. If you have a two-chamber refrigerator, it is better to carry out the operation one at a time: first with one door, then with the other, so as not to disturb the temperature regime throughout the entire volume.
☑️ Preparation for rehanging
Dismantling the upper part and door removal
The process begins with dismantling the upper hinge, which holds the door in a vertical position. Depending on the model, this loop may be hidden under a decorative plug or plastic cover. Carefully pry off the plug with a flat screwdriver, being careful not to scratch refrigerator body. Underneath it you will find mounting bolts that need to be unscrewed.
It is important to understand that the door cannot simply be released after removing the top fastening. It is heavy and can fall, damaging sealing rubber or the bottom hinge. Have a helper hold the door while you remove the fasteners. If you don't have a helper, use masking tape to hold the door closed, but don't rely on it completely.
Once the top hinge is released, carefully lift the door up to remove it from the bottom hinge. Place the removed part on a prepared soft surface with the outer side facing up. Now you can begin to remove the lower hinge, if the design of your model requires it (for example, y Atlant or Nord). Often the bottom loop is simply unscrewed from the socket and moved to the opposite side.
Some models have integrated handles or complex locking mechanisms that require additional attention. If you see that there are wires connected to the door (for example, for a display or a lamp), do not pull on them under any circumstances. First, find the connector and carefully disconnect it, having previously photographed the position of the contacts.
Transferring fastening elements and fittings
The most critical stage is transferring mounting holes and fittings to the opposite side. There are usually technological holes at the ends of the door and on the body of the refrigerator, closed with plastic plugs. You need to remove these plugs from the new side and install them in place of the old holes to maintain the aesthetic appearance.
Pay attention to Keepers and pins. They must be installed strictly symmetrically relative to the center of the door. If the pin is skewed even by a millimeter, the door will not close tightly or, conversely, with difficulty. Use a level or ruler to check symmetry before final tightening of bolts.
| Element | Transfer action | Features |
|---|---|---|
| Top hinge | Move to the other side | Check the length of the bolts |
| Bottom pin | Screw into a new socket | Lubricate with lithium grease |
| Plugs | Swap | Do not lose rubber seals |
| Handle | Move or turn over | Depends on models |
If your model is equipped with a system No Frost, make sure that you do not pinch the air ducts when rearranging. In some cases, rearrangement of internal dampers or sensors is required. Carefully study manufacturer's instructions for your specific model, since there cannot be universal advice here.
What to do if the holes do not match?
In rare cases, especially after a manufacturing defect or previous repairs, the holes may not match. Do not attempt to drill new holes in the frame or door! This will damage the thermal insulation and lead to corrosion. Use adapter plates or contact the service center.
When installing new fittings, use thread lockif it was originally used by the manufacturer. This will prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the screws due to vibration of the compressor during operation. However, do not overdo it with the tightening force, so as not to break the threads in the plastic elements of the body.
Installing the door on a new side
After preparing all the fasteners, the moment comes to place the door in place. Install the bottom pin or hinge into the new slot. Slide the door onto the axle, making sure it sits level. Now you need to fix the top part. It is better to perform this stage together: one person holds the door, the second tightens the upper hinge.
Do not tighten the bolts completely right away. First, tighten them, check the evenness of installation and only then make the final tightening. If the door is installed crookedly, seal it will not fit tightly, which will lead to constant operation of the compressor and ice freezing. The gaps between the door and the body should be the same along the entire perimeter.
If you are working with a two-chamber refrigerator, repeat the procedure for the second door. Please note that the removal and installation sequence may vary. For example, in some models Samsung the top door is removed first, then the middle bar, and only then the bottom. Violation of the order may make further dismantling impossible without damaging the structure.
⚠️ Attention: When installing, make sure that the door does not touch the protruding parts of the body or handle when opening 90 degrees. If there is interference, you may need to adjust the height of the refrigerator legs.
Features of models with electronics and displays
Modern refrigerators are often equipped with control modules located on the door. If your model has a display or control buttons on door panel, a simple mechanical transfer will not be enough. You will have to transfer the wiring harnesses and connectors to the other side.
This usually requires removing the top cover of the refrigerator (hood), where the main wiring is hidden. Carefully disconnect the connectors going to the door and route them through the process channels to the new exit location. Be extremely careful: the wires may be short and should not be pulled too far. If necessary, use extension cables, but only if you are confident in the quality of the insulation.
In models with a system Smart or complex electronics, after rehanging, a software reconfiguration of the opening side may be required. This is done through the settings menu or a combination of buttons. If after installation the door opens in the other direction, but the opening sensor continues to “think” that it is closed (or vice versa), check the magnetic sensor (reed switch). It also needs to be moved into the corresponding hole on the opposite end.
Adjustment and leak testing
The final stage is checking the quality of the work performed. Visually inspect the perimeter of the door. Sealing rubber It should fit tightly to the body along the entire length without gaps or waves. If you notice any leaks, the door may have been warped during installation.
To check the tightness, use a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet between the door and the body in different places around the perimeter. If the sheet is pulled out with force along its entire length, everything is fine. If in some place the sheet falls out or is pulled out too easily, you will need adjusting the hinges. Loosen the fasteners and move the door slightly, then tighten the bolts again.
Also check the operation of the door light switch. When the door is open, the light should come on, and when the door is closed (or the button is lightly pressed) it should go out. If you have a model with a door open alarm, turn on the refrigerator and wait a few minutes. The absence of a sound signal when the door is open will indicate a problem with the sensor or magnet.
What to do if the door sag after rehanging?
Door sagging is a common problem if the bolts were not tightened tightly enough or if the bottom hinge pin did not fully fit into the socket. Try loosening the top hinge, lifting the door with your hands to the desired level, and firmly tightening the fasteners again. If this does not help, check the integrity of the hinge itself - perhaps it has become deformed.
Is it possible to change the opening side on a built-in refrigerator?
It is more difficult to do this on built-in appliances, since the door is attached to the furniture facade. It requires dismantling the facade, rehanging the refrigerator door, and then reinstalling the furniture door, taking into account the new opening side. Often, this requires special adapters included in the kit.
Do you need to wait after installation before turning it on?
If during operation you did not tilt the refrigerator much (more than 40 degrees) and did not shake it, there is no need to wait. However, if the unit has been lying on its side, it is recommended to allow the oil in the compressor to drain back into the crankcase for 2-4 hours before turning it on for the first time.
Why does the door slam when closing?
A loud bang when closing indicates that the seal is too tight or there is a high vacuum inside the chamber. This is normal for new refrigerators or after defrosting. Over time, the seal will deteriorate and the effect will decrease. It is not recommended to lubricate the elastic band with oil; it is better to wipe it with warm water.
Where to put the old holes from the loops?
The old holes that ended up on the front side after transfer must be closed with plastic plugs. They usually come with the refrigerator (in a bag with documents) or are already installed in the holes on the opposite side. If the plugs are lost, they can be ordered from a service center or carefully disguised, although this is less reliable.