Refrigerators Minsk are deservedly considered one of the most reliable and repairable units in the post-Soviet space. However, even the most reliable equipment eventually requires adaptation to changing operating conditions. A situation often arises when the refrigerator no longer fits into the updated interior of the kitchen, and the only solution is to change the side of the door opening. This allows you to free up useful space or simply make using the device more ergonomic.
The process of hanging doors on models Minsk-17, Minsk-15 or more modern series does not require calling a specialist and having complex professional tools. The entire procedure takes from 30 to 60 minutes if you perform all steps consistently and carefully. The main thing is to understand the design of the hinges and properly prepare the workplace so as not to damage the enamel or sealing rubber.
In this article we will analyze in detail all stages of work, paying special attention to the nuances of dismantling old fastenings and installation of new ones. You will learn how to avoid common mistakes that can lead to sash misalignment or a loose fit. Correct adjustment of gaps will ensure long compressor service and high-quality preservation of products.
Preparation for work and necessary tools
Before proceeding with direct dismantling, it is necessary to ensure the safety of the process and prepare all the tools. It is better to carry out work in a wide, free space, where you can lay the refrigerator on its side or conveniently arrange the removed elements. Make sure that the floor is covered with soft material so as not to scratch the body of the unit.
You will need a basic DIY kit, which can be found in almost any apartment. Pay special attention to the quality of the screwdrivers, since the screws on the hinges often stick or have a stiff movement due to vibrations during compressor operation.
- 🔧 A set of open-end wrenches (most often sizes 10, 12 or 14 mm, depending on the year of manufacture of the model).
- 🪛 Phillips and flat screwdrivers (preferably with a magnetic tip for ease of working with small fasteners).
- 🔨 Hammer (may be needed to carefully knock out pins or bushings).
- 🧴 Lubricant (WD-40 or machine oil) for processing rusted connections.
It is also important to ensure that an assistant is nearby. The refrigerator door, especially the bottom one, has significant weight, and holding it with one hand while unscrewing the bolts is extremely inconvenient and dangerous for the back.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply! Remove the plug from the socket to eliminate the risk of electric shock if the wiring is accidentally damaged during manipulations with the housing.
☑️ Preparing to rehang the door
Dismantling the upper door and removing the handles
Work always starts from the upper chamber refrigerator. This is due to a design feature: the upper door rests on the lower one, so they must be removed strictly in a certain sequence. First, you need to empty the door of the products and remove all the shelves to reduce weight and eliminate broken glass.
The first step is to dismantle the handle, if the design of your model Minsk involves its removal. On many older models, the handles are attached with screws from the inside or snapped onto plastic clips. Proceed carefully so as not to break the plastic, which may have become brittle over years of use.
Next, you should unscrew the top hinge. To do this, hold the door with one hand and use the other with a wrench or screwdriver to unscrew the fastening bolts. After removing the top hinge, the door can be carefully lifted and removed from the bottom axis.
If the door has decorative plugs covering the holes for the hinges, they must be removed. Often they sit quite tightly, and to remove them a thin knife blade or awl may be required.
- 🚪 Remove all removable elements: shelves, drawers, magnetic holders.
- 🔩 Unscrew the screws securing the top hinge, having previously secured the door.
- 🧱 Remove door from the lower support axis and set it aside in a safe place.
- 🕳️ Remove the plastic plugs from the holes that will become working.
Nuances of old models of the Minsk plant
On refrigerators of old years of production (80-90s), the top hinge may be welded to the body or have a specific locking screw. Carefully inspect the structure: if there are no bolts, you may need to remove the decorative cap on top, under which the bolt head is hidden.
Working with the bottom door of the freezer
After the upper part is freed, move on to the bottom door of the freezer. Here the process is similar, but has its own characteristics related to the weight of the structure and the presence of additional elements, such as a lock or latch mechanism.
It is necessary to remove the lower hinge, which is often hidden under a decorative strip or base of the refrigerator. Carefully remove the plastic cover if it interferes with access to the fastener. Unscrew the bolts holding the hinge and remove it together with the door.
Pay special attention to the condition sealing rubber at the time of removal. Try not to stretch it or squeeze it between the body parts. If the rubber is hard, it can be slightly heated with a hairdryer to make it elastic, but during dismantling this is rarely required.
On some models Minsk the lower door has additional guides or stoppers. Remember their position or take a photo before removal, so that when reassembling on the new side there will be no problems with geometry.
Reversing the hinges and moving the fastening elements
This is the most critical stage that requires care. The loops that were on top should now be on the bottom, and vice versa. However, simply swapping them is often not enough - sometimes you need to rearrange the pin (axis) itself or turn over the hinge if it has an asymmetrical shape.
Carefully inspect the dismantled hinges. They may have threaded holes for different installation options. You need to select those holes that correspond to the new opening side. If there is a pin on the hinge, in some models it needs to be moved to the opposite end or the part itself must be turned over.
It is also necessary to move the plugs. Those holes that were previously working (with hinges) should now be closed with plastic plugs. And vice versa, the hinge fastening bolts will now be screwed into the previously closed holes.
If you change the opening side of the handle, disassemble it and move the fasteners to the opposite side of the door. Make sure the screws are tightened tightly, but do not strip the threads in the plastic base of the handle.
| Element | Action when changing sides | Nuance |
|---|---|---|
| Top hinge | Transfer to the opposite side | Check the holes for alignment |
| Bottom loop | Transfer and flip (if necessary) | Watch the axis of rotation |
| Plugs | Change places | Close old holes |
| Handle | Dismantling and installation on the other side | Observe symmetry |
Do not forget to lubricate the rubbing parts of the hinges with a small amount of graphite grease or lithol before installation. This will save you from unpleasant squeaking in the future.
Installing doors in a new position
Assembly is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly, but taking into account the new configuration. We start with the bottom door of the freezer. Place the hinge in a new place, screw in the bolts, but do not tighten them all the way yet - this will allow the door to be leveled.
Put the bottom door in place, its axis hitting the hinge bushing. Have an assistant hold the structure. Carefully tighten the fasteners. Now let's move on to the top door. Install the lower support hinge for the upper chamber (which is now located on the main door body or on the partition strip).
Place the upper door onto the axle. Make sure it is level and not leaning to one side. Only after a visual check can the upper hinge bolts be finally tightened. Check the operation of the latch between the cameras, if it is provided for in the design.
It is important to check whether the door touches the body when opening and closing. The gap around the perimeter should be the same. If the door is skewed, loosen the fastenings and slightly move it in the desired direction.
Adjustment and checking the tightness
After installation, you need to make sure that the fit is tight seal. Failure to close tightly will lead to ice freezing, increased load on the compressor and food spoilage. The check is carried out visually and using a simple test.
Take a sheet of paper or a banknote. Clamp it with the refrigerator door around the perimeter. The paper should be pulled out with noticeable force. If the sheet falls out freely or is pulled out without resistance, it means that the seal does not fit in this place.
To eliminate the distortion, you can use adjusting washers under the hinges or simply loosen the fastening and reposition the door. Sometimes heating the deformed area of the seal with a hairdryer helps - hot air makes the rubber elastic, and it straightens.
⚠️ Attention: If after all the manipulations the door still does not fit tightly, check the integrity of the rubber itself. Cracks, tears or loss of elasticity (tanning) require replacing the seal; adjusting the hinges will not help here.
Make sure that when the door is closed it does not bounce back. This may indicate that the magnetic tape is dirty or that the refrigerator is not level. Adjusting the legs of the refrigerator can also affect the angle of inclination and closing gravity.
Common mistakes and troubleshooting
In the process, beginners often make mistakes that nullify all efforts. One of the most common is the loss or confusion of screws of different lengths. Carefully sort the fasteners, since screwing a long screw into a short hole can pierce the wall of the refrigerator right through.
Another mistake is ignoring the condition of the thread. If the screw is tight, do not use excessive force; it is better to treat the threads with lubricant. Broken threads in the refrigerator body are a serious problem, requiring the installation of a bushing or the use of a longer bolt with a nut, which ruins the aesthetics.
Also, people often forget to reinstall the door opener stops (if they exist). As a result, the door may swing open too wide and damage nearby furniture or be damaged by the wall itself.
- ❌ Do not ignore the level: the refrigerator should stand strictly horizontally or with a slight tilt back for gravity.
- ❌ Do not use an impact tool (drill-driver) for the final tightening - it is easy to break the threads in the soft metal of the case.
- ❌ Do not leave the refrigerator open without power for longer than necessary so that the system does not defrost.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Is it possible to rearrange the door on a Minsk refrigerator yourself if it is under warranty?
Formally, re-hanging the door yourself is not a complicated repair and does not require opening the freon system. However, if you strip threads or damage the housing in the process, your warranty may be void. It is recommended to consult with a service center before starting work.
What to do if the holes on the new side do not match the hinges?
In factory refrigerators Minsk holes for rehanging are already provided on both sides. If you do not see the holes, they may be closed with decorative plugs that need to be squeezed out from the inside or carefully pryed from the outside. You cannot drill new holes.
Why did the door begin to close worse after rehanging?
Most likely, the angle of the refrigerator is broken. To close properly, the door must have a tendency to close under its own weight. Adjust the front legs of the refrigerator, lifting the front part slightly higher than the back.
Do you need to wait before turning on the refrigerator after re-hanging it?
If you did not tilt the refrigerator more than 45 degrees and did not lay it on its side, you can turn it on immediately. If the unit was lying down, it is recommended to let it stand upright for 2-4 hours before turning it on, so that the oil in the compressor flows into the crankcase.