The situation when a refrigerator, purchased with enthusiasm, after installation rests its door on the wall or interferes with opening the adjacent cabinet, is familiar to many. This is not a reason to panic and certainly not a reason to drag bulky equipment back to the store. Modern engineering has provided the possibility reverse openingthat allows you to adapt the device to the layout of your kitchen.
In most models, be it budget Indesit or premium LG, the design of the hinges and fastenings initially assume the possibility of changing the side of the hinge. However, this process requires attentiveness, a basic set of tools and an understanding of how your unit works. Errors at the dismantling stage can lead to damage to the enamel or loss of tightness. front panel your unit. Errors at the dismantling stage can lead to damage to the enamel or loss of tightness.
Before grabbing a screwdriver, you need to evaluate the scope of work. You will need to clear some space around the refrigerator so you can access it from all sides. It is also critical completely disconnect the device from the power supply at least a couple of hours before starting work, so that the refrigerant has time to drain into the condenser and the compressor has cooled down, which will protect the system from damage.
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
The success of the operation is 90% dependent on proper preparation. You don't need a specialized service case, but a basic DIY kit is a must. First of all, stock up on open-end wrenches or sockets, the sizes of which often correspond to standard metric values: 8, 10 and 13 mm. Some models Bosch or Siemens may require a hexagon.
The second important element is surface protection. Refrigerator doors have a glossy finish that can be scratched even by the careless movement of a metal tool. Cover the floor in front of the refrigerator with a soft blanket, cardboard or thick cloth. This place will become your work area, where you will put the removed parts.
Also, do not forget about the help of a second person. The door of a modern refrigerator, especially in Side-by-Side models or with the No Frostsystem, weighs quite a lot. Trying to remove it alone may result in a back injury or the part falling and destroying the hinge mechanism.
Design features and types of fastenings
Before Before starting dismantling, you should look at the technical documentation of your model. Manufacturers use different approaches to organizing reverse. In older models, a simple scheme is often found where the hinges are simply rearranged to the opposite side using standard holes. In more complex systems, such as y Electrolux or Atlant, it may be necessary to transfer additional fittings.
Particular attention should be paid to the type of handles. If the handle is integrated into the body or has complex mechanics, the process can become more complicated. In some cases, it is necessary to remove the handle itself, rearrange the plugs and then mount everything back. The mechanism closer, if present, may also require specific adjustments after rehanging.
Below is a table showing common types of fastenings from different manufacturers:
| Brand | Loop type | Do you need a special one? tool | Nuances |
|---|---|---|---|
| Indesit | Standard top/bottom | No (key 10) | Removal of the base is often required |
| Bosch | Hidden hinge | Yes (hexagon) | Complex spring system |
| LG | Reinforced hinge | No (8/10 key) | Heavy doors |
| Samsung | Combined | No | Attention to electronics |
What to do if the bolt is rusty?
If the fastener does not yield and is corroded, do not use excessive force - you can strip the threads. Treat the joint with a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40) and leave for 15-20 minutes. After this, the attempt to unscrew can be repeated.
Dismantling the upper part and removing the door
We begin direct disassembly. The first step is always to remove the top hinge. This is an axiom, since it is this that holds the main weight of the sash. Carefully remove the decorative cap, if present. Under it you will find fastening bolts. Unscrew them, but do not remove them completely yet, unless the design suggests otherwise.
After loosening the upper fastening, the door is still held on the lower hinge. At this point, it is important that your assistant holds the sash firmly. Smoothly lift the door by removing it from the bottom pin. Now you can put it aside in a safe place, having previously spread the prepared fabric.
Pay attention to the wires. If your refrigerator has a display on the door or an opening button on the front, there will be a wiring harness running inside the case. It must be carefully disconnected. Typically the connectors are located under the top cover or in a special channel. Do not pull the wires sharply - the contacts may be fragile.
⚠️ Attention: When disconnecting electrical connectors, be sure to photograph their position or mark with a marker which wire went where. Reversed polarity can damage the control electronics.
☑️ Removing the door
Rehanging the hinges and lower fastening
Now we move on to the bottom of the unit. Here is the counter part of the mechanism, which is also subject to transfer. Depending on the model, the lower loop can be tightly fixed or can be rearranged. You will need to remove the stoppers or move the hinge itself to the opposite side of the case.
Often plastic plugs are installed at the site of future fastening. They need to be removed and moved to the free space to maintain an aesthetic appearance. If the refrigerator came with special bushings or stoppers for reverse, now is the time to use them. Make sure that all the holes match the holes on the door itself.
Don't forget about the handle. If it is asymmetrical, it also needs to be rearranged. To do this, it is usually enough to unscrew the screws on the inside of the door. After rearranging, check that the handle fits tightly and does not wobble. The closing mechanism should operate smoothly, without jamming.
An important point: some models have an asymmetrical seal. If after rearranging you notice that the door does not fit tightly, the rubber seal may need to be unscrewed or replaced. However, in 95% of cases, modern seals are universal and do not require replacement.
Installing the door in a new location
When all the preparatory work is completed and the bottom hinge is installed on the new side, you can begin installing the door. This is the most crucial moment requiring coordination of actions. Lift the door and carefully slide it onto the bottom pin. Make sure that it sits straight and stands upright.
Now you need to fix the top loop. Insert it into the grooves and tighten the bolts. Do not tighten them all the way straight away. First, make sure that the door is positioned correctly, the gaps around the perimeter are the same, and nothing interferes with its movement. Only after this can you finally tighten the upper fasteners.
If you disconnected the wires, it’s time to connect them back. Pass the harness through the provided channels and snap the connectors until you hear a characteristic click. Make sure that the wires are not pinched by the metal parts of the hinges, otherwise when opening the door the insulation may be damaged, leading to a short circuit.
⚠️ Attention: Hinge designs from different manufacturers may differ radically. If you feel that the parts do not fall into place without force, do not use force - check the instructions, you may have missed the step of rearranging the internal stops.
Adjusting gaps and checking tightness
After installation, it may turn out that the door is skewed or does not fit tightly to the body. This can be fixed. On many models, the height of the refrigerator legs is adjustable, which allows you to change the angle of the entire body. If the door opens on its own or does not close completely, try unscrewing the front adjustment supports a little.
Checking the tightness is a critical step. Take a piece of paper or a banknote and press it between the door and the body in different places around the perimeter. You should feel a snug fit. If the paper falls out or is pulled out too easily, it means seal the fit is not tight. In this case, it may be necessary to adjust the position of the hinge.
Let the refrigerator stand off for at least 2-3 hours after installation. This is necessary so that the refrigerant is finally distributed throughout the system, and the oil returns to the compressor if it was shaken up when tilted during work.
How to level a skewed door?
If the door is skewed, try loosening the bolts securing the middle hinge (if there is one) or the top hinge, align the door and re-level it tighten the fastenings. Sometimes placing a thin washer under one side of the loop helps.
Typical mistakes and troubleshooting
Even following the instructions, beginners often make mistakes. The most common one is lost or mixed up screws. The bolts for the right and left sides may have different lengths or threads. Using the wrong fastener can result in the screw going right through the wall or, conversely, not reaching the thread.
Another mistake is ignoring electrics. A forgotten door sensor connector will cause the refrigerator to “think” the door is open. As a result, it will not start the compressor, and an error or alarm will appear on the display.
If after all the manipulations the door closes tightly, do not rush to lubricate the hinges with oil. Oil may drip onto food or the floor. It is better to check whether the door is touching the body due to misalignment, or whether the screws are not tightened too much, deforming the metal.
Is it possible to rearrange the door on a built-in refrigerator?
Yes, it is possible, but it is more difficult. You will have to dismantle the front furniture panels, remove the refrigerator from the niche, carry out all the operations, and then install it back. Often it is necessary to rehang not only the refrigerator doors, but also the furniture door, which requires precision in the holes.
What to do if the instructions are lost?
Don’t despair. Find the exact model of your refrigerator (the sticker is usually inside the chamber or on the back) and enter the query “model + door reverse” or “model + manual” into the search engine. Schemes for rearranging loops are standardized for most brands.
Is it necessary to drain the freon before rearranging?
No, under no circumstances. Reversing the doors is a mechanical operation and does not affect the sealed refrigerant circuit. The cooling system remains intact unless you damage the tubes with a tool. Freon remains inside the system.
Why did a creaking appear after the rearrangement?
The creaming may occur due to the fact that the hinges are not perfectly straight, or dust has entered. It is also possible that when you tightened the bolts you slightly deformed the metal. Try loosening the fasteners slightly and re-tightening them, keeping an eye on symmetry.
Does rearranging affect the warranty?
Rearranging doors yourself usually does not void the warranty unless you damage the exterior (chips, scratches) or internal components. However, if you break the hinge or strip the thread, the service center may refuse to repair this particular unit for free.