The need to move the refrigerator door arises quite often, especially when the standard arrangement interferes with the ergonomics of the kitchen. Sometimes kitchen design designed so that a right-opening door blocks passage or access to other cabinets. In other cases, the user himself is left-handed, and it is physically more convenient for him to open refrigeration unit with his left hand, which is a matter of pure comfort.
Fortunately, most modern models are from leading brands such as LG, Samsung, Bosch or Indesit, were initially designed taking into account the possibility of overhanging. This does not require complex engineering intervention or calling a specialist if you have a basic set of tools and some free time. However, it is important to understand that the process may differ significantly depending on the type attachment system and the presence of the handle No Frost.
In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will help you avoid common mistakes. We will look at the nuances of working with magnetic locks, features of dismantling heavy doors and the correct sequence of adjusting the gaps. Following the instructions will preserve the warranty on the equipment and ensure its long-term operation after modification.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
Before starting any manipulations with the equipment, you must clear the space around the refrigerator. You will need access to the unit from all sides in order to easily walk around it and set aside the removed parts. Make sure that the floor is covered with a soft material, such as cardboard or thick fabric, so as not to scratch the door covering or if elements accidentally fall. refrigerator body in case of accidental falling of elements.
The basic set of tools is usually minimal, but its configuration depends on the model. In most cases, a set hex keys, Phillips and flathead screwdrivers, as well as a 10 or 8 mm wrench are sufficient. For some models, Beko or Atlant may require a special key, which often comes complete with instructions, or a socket head with an extension.
- 🔧 Set of hexagons (metric and inch) for different types screws.
- 🪛 Screwdrivers: Phillips (PH2) and flathead for removing plugs.
- 🧤 Construction gloves to protect hands from sharp metal edges.
- 📦 Capacity for folding small screws and nuts so as not to lose them.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply! Remove the plug from the outlet to avoid short circuits or damage to the electronics if the wires are accidentally kinked while removing the doors.
It is also recommended to have a helper, especially if you have a two-door model or a Side-by-Side refrigerator. The doors of modern units can be quite heavy due to the glass and seals, and holding them with one hand while unscrewing the hinges is extremely difficult and dangerous. Safety in this process comes first.
Dismantling the top panel and removing the doors
The process begins with dismantling the top cover of the refrigerator, if it is removable. On many models it is secured with latches or screws on the back. Carefully unscrew the fasteners and remove the panel, gaining access to the top hinges. If your refrigerator has a top hinge hidden by a decorative plug, pry it off with a flat screwdriver, being careful not to damage the plastic.
Next you need to unscrew the top hinge. It is important to follow the order here: first loosen, but do not completely remove the bolts, then ask an assistant to hold the door. After this, you can completely unscrew the fasteners and remove the door from the bottom hinge. When working with two-chamber models, first remove the upper door (freezer compartment), and then the lower one (refrigerator compartment).
☑️ Checklist before removing the door
Special attention attention should be paid to the wires. If opening indicators, a display or a button are installed on the door Super Freeze, electrical cables are connected to them. Connectors They must be carefully disconnected, remembering or photographing the original position, so as not to mix up the contacts during assembly.
| Door type | Weight (approximate) | Number of assistants | Complexity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single chamber | 15-20 kg | 1 person | Low |
| Two-chamber (top) | 20-25 kg | 2 people | Average |
| Double-chamber (bottom) | 25-35 kg | 2 people | High |
| Side-by-Side | 40+ kg | 2-3 people | Very high |
Re-hanging the hinges and installing them on the new side
After removing the doors, you need to move the hinges to the opposite side of the case. Most refrigerators already have threaded holes on the unused side, closed with plastic plugs. Remove the plugs from the new side and install them in the old places to save them. aesthetic appearance. Sometimes it is necessary to rearrange and hinge pin, which can be pressed in or screwed in.
Install the top hinge to a new location, but do not tighten the bolts until it stops. This will allow you to adjust the position of the door when hanging it. put it on the lower pin (or install the lower hinge, if the design provides for its installation after installing the leaf). Make sure that the door is level and not skewed relative to the horizontal level. What to do if the holes do not match? In this case, you need to drill the body, which is strictly not recommended to do yourself, since you can damage the thermal insulation layer or the cooling circuit. Check the instructions for your model horizontal level.
What to do if the holes don't match?
In some budget models, holes for hinges may only be on one side. In this case, you need to drill the housing, which is strictly not recommended to do yourself, since you can damage the thermal insulation layer or the cooling circuit. Check the instructions for your model refrigerator in advance. all the bolts, then tighten them diagonally to ensure even distribution of the load. If you are rearranging the door on a two-chamber refrigerator, repeat the procedure for the lower chamber, first removing the middle partition or using it as a support, if the design allows.
Secure the door by tightening the top hinge bolts. Proceed sequentially: first tighten all the bolts, then tighten them diagonally to ensure even load distribution. If you are rearranging the door on a two-chamber refrigerator, repeat the procedure for the lower chamber, first removing the middle partition or using it as a support, if the design allows it.
Adjusting the door position and gaps
Correct adjustment is the key to a good seal fit and absence problems with closing. If the door is skewed, warm air will enter the chamber, which will lead to the formation ice and increased load on the compressor. To adjust, use the adjusting bolts on the lower hinge or special washers, if provided by the design.
Check the gap between door and body along the entire perimeter. It should be the same at the top and bottom. If the bottom of the door fits tighter than the top, or vice versa, it is necessary to loosen the fastenings of the bottom hinge and slightly move the door in the desired direction. In some models, the height of the door is adjusted by rotating the support leg of the bottom hinge. data-i="127">📏 Check the parallelism of the door to the body using a ruler or level. Liebherr or Siemens The height of the door is adjusted by rotating the support leg of the lower hinge.
- 📏 Check the parallelism of the door to the body using a ruler or level.
- 🚪 Make sure that the door opens and closes freely, without squeaks.
- 🧲 Check the tightness of the magnetic seal along the entire contour.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to forcefully slam a warped door. This may lead to deformation of the metal profile or breakage of the plastic handle fastening elements.
After mechanical adjustment, be sure to let the refrigerator stand in an upright position for 30-60 minutes before turning it on, especially if you tilted the unit strongly during operation. The oil in the compressor must drain into the crankcase to avoid hydraulic hammer during startup.
Moving the handle and fittings
The most difficult step is often moving the handle, especially if it is hidden or integrated. In models with external handles, it is usually enough to unscrew them on one side and screw them on the other using prepared holes. However, in some cases, the holes on the reverse side may be closed with decorative inserts that need to be removed.
If the handle is hidden (mortise), the process may require dismantling the inner door panel. To do this, remove the seal around the perimeter, unscrew the screws holding the inner plastic panel, and gain access to the handle fasteners. Be careful with fragile plastic, which becomes brittle in the cold.
In the case of models with electronic display on the door, you may need to move not only the handle itself, but also the control module or its elements. Carefully monitor the length of the cables: sometimes installation on the other side requires extending the wiring or re-soldering the contacts, which is best left to a specialist.
Nuances for refrigerators with the No Frost system
Refrigerators with the system No Frost have their own characteristics related to air circulation. When re-hanging the door, it is important not to damage the cold air ducts that may pass through the doorway or seal. Make sure that during a new installation the door does not pinch these channels.
Also, such models often use more complex sealing systems with magnetic inserts around the entire perimeter. After moving the door, check to see if a gap has formed in the evaporator area. If warm air is sucked in through the gap, the system No Frost may not work correctly, and ice will appear on the back wall of the chamber.
Some advanced models with a freshness zone or separate climate compartments may have additional door opening sensors. Their wires often run inside the door leaf. When rearranging, make sure that the cable is not strained and has sufficient length to fully open the door 180 degrees.
Checking operation and final adjustment
After completing installation and adjustment, it is necessary to conduct a test test. Plug in the refrigerator and let it run for several hours. Periodically check the temperature inside the chambers and the absence of extraneous noise. The door should close tightly, and the seal should evenly adhere to the body around the entire perimeter.
Pay attention to the operation of the magnetic lock, if there is one. In modern models, it may require calibration after changing the opening side. The calibration procedure is usually described in the "Service" or "Settings" section of the refrigerator menu. Follow the instructions on the display to complete the process.
- ❄️ Check that there is no condensation on the outside of the door.
- 🔊 Listen to the operation of the compressor: there should be no vibrations from the warped door.
- 👀 Inspect the seal: it should not be turned out or deformed.
If you notice that the door begins to close worse than before the rearrangement, try loosening the fasteners a little and experimenting with the angle of inclination. Sometimes it is necessary to place an additional washer under the hinge to compensate for wear or design features of a particular side of the case.
Is it possible to rearrange the door on the refrigerator if there are no holes on the other side?
If the instructions for your model do not state the possibility of reversing and there are no technological holes on the back side, then you cannot drill the case yourself. This will compromise the thermal insulation, may damage the refrigerant circuit and will void the warranty. In such cases, changing the opening side is impossible.
Is it necessary to defrost the refrigerator before rearranging the hinges?
Yes, this is a mandatory requirement. Complete defrosting is necessary not only for hygiene, but also to ensure that ice in the channels and on the evaporator does not interfere with dismantling. In addition, a wet seal is easier to remove and reinstall when it is warm and elastic.
Why does the door not close completely after rearranging?
The most likely reason is incorrect adjustment of the tilt of the body. The refrigerator should be tilted slightly backwards (the back legs are higher than the front legs) so that the door closes itself under the influence of gravity. Also check whether the contents of the shelves or the shelf itself interfere with tight closure.
Does rearranging the door affect the warranty?
If you carry out the procedure strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions, using standard holes and without making changes to the design (drilling, soldering), the warranty remains valid. However, if during the process plastic elements are broken or threads are torn off, the service center may refuse to repair these components free of charge.