The situation when standard opening of the refrigerator door becomes inconvenient due to the peculiarities of the kitchen layout occurs quite often. It often happens that after purchasing a new model or rearranging furniture, the handle rests against the wall, and access to the shelves becomes difficult. It is in such cases that it becomes necessary to change the opening side of the sash so that the ergonomics of the space are restored.
Fortunately, the design of most modern units from brands like Indesit, Atlant or LG provides for this possibility. Manufacturers include loop reverse functionality, allowing the user to perform this operation independently without calling a technician. This not only saves your budget, but also allows you to do the work at a time convenient for you.
In this article we will analyze in detail the process of dismantling and installing elements on a new side. You will learn about the nuances of working with different types of fasteners, the necessary tools and precautions. A correctly performed procedure ensures that the equipment will work silently, and the seal will ensure tightness.
Preparation for work and the necessary tools
Before you begin active actions, you need to make sure that you have everything necessary for safe work. Disconnecting the power supply is the first and mandatory step that cannot be ignored under any circumstances circumstances. This will protect you from accidental electric shock and prevent damage to electronics during manipulation.
To complete the task, you will need a basic DIY kit. A standard flathead and Phillips head screwdriver is usually sufficient. In some models, especially European ones, there may be screws with slots like Torx (asterisk), so having the appropriate bit will not be superfluous.
It is also worth preparing auxiliary materials that will simplify the process and protect the surfaces. For example, tape will help secure moving elements, and soft fabric will protect the floor and façade of equipment from scratches. If you have a helper, this will significantly speed up the process, as doors are often heavy and bulky.
- 🛠️ Set of screwdrivers (Phillips, flathead, Torx)
- 🔧 Wrench or socket (usually 8 or 10 mm)
- 🧣 Soft rags or cardboard to protect the floor
- 🧴 WD-40 or penetrating lubricant (if the hinges are stuck)
- 📸 Smartphone for photographing the assembly stages
⚠️ Attention: Before Before starting work, be sure to empty the door shelves of food and bottles. Excess weight can shift the center of gravity and cause the sash to fall while unscrewing the fasteners.
It is also important to determine in advance the type of your model, since the complexity of the procedure depends on this. In double-compartment refrigerators with a separate freezer, the process may differ from single-compartment models. Study the instructions for your device, if you have one, or find a digital copy of it based on the model.
Dismantling the top part and removing the door
The process always starts with the top hinge, since it is this that holds the main weight of the sash suspended. You will need to remove the decorative cap that usually hides the fasteners. It can be made in the form of a plastic cover with latches or simply a bushing that needs to be carefully pryed off with a knife.
After removing the plug, you will see the mounting bolts. They must be unscrewed, but not removed completely, if the design requires the presence of studs. On some models Bosch or Siemens the top hinge may be part of a complex mechanism with an opening sensor, so proceed with caution.
When the top fastening is loose, the door must be removed. It is better to do this together: one person holds the sash, and the second finally unscrews the bolts. If there is no assistant, you can use wedges or stops, but the risk of dropping a heavy part remains high.
The removed door must be carefully placed on a prepared soft surface with the outer side down. This will prevent damage to the interior plastic lining and handles. Now you can safely work with the lower part of the unit.
☑️ Dismantling the top hinge
Working with the lower support and base
The lower part of the refrigerator is often hidden behind a decorative base or grille. To access the bottom hinge, this element must be removed. It is usually secured with latches or a pair of screws located at the front. Be careful, the plastic on older models can be brittle.
Under the base you will find a lower support sleeve or hinge. Unlike the top one, it is under constant load and can be contaminated with dust. Here, the use of penetrating lubricant is often required if the thread has become soured over time.
After unscrewing the lower fastening, the rotation axis is released. In some designs, the axle is part of the hinge itself, in others it is a separate pin inserted into the housing. Remember the position of all washers and bushings, as their order is important for smooth operation.
| Mounting type | Location | Tool | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hidden hinge | On the side of the case | Torx screwdriver | Requires removal of the decorative panel |
| Open sleeve | At the bottom of the case | 8-10 mm wrench | Often has threaded adjustment |
| Pin axis | Inside the case | Pliers | Necessary pull up |
| Magnetic lock | Top end | Plastic spatula | Careful with the sensor wires |
If you plan to carry the handle, then at this stage it is worth doing to her. Often the handles are fastened with screws from inside the door or have hidden latches under the plugs. Removing the handle It is better to do this while the door is lying horizontally, so as not to damage the fastening mechanism.
Rearranging the hardware elements
The most important stage is transfer all removed parts to the opposite side. The refrigerator often comes with plugs for holes that will remain free. Find the spare parts bag, which is usually secured to the inside wall of the chamber or with packing foam.
Start by installing the bottom support on the new side. The refrigerator body has symmetrical openings on both sides. Make sure you use the correct holes for your model, as there may be several rows of them.
Then the top loop is transferred. If a door opening sensor is installed on it, carefully pull the wires through the technological channels. Do not allow the wires to be pinched by metal parts, this may lead to a short circuit.
What to do with the plugs?
Old holes that are no longer used must be closed with plastic plugs. They come included or can be removed from the opposite side if there were decorative elements there. This is necessary to preserve the appearance and prevent dust from entering.
The handle also needs to be rearranged. If the new side does not have pre-cut holes, check to see if they are covered with factory stickers. In rare cases, for example, when installing a universal handle, you may need to drill yourself, but for standard handles the holes are already provided by the design.
⚠️ Attention: When rearranging the hinges, pay attention to the orientation of the washers and bushings. Incorrect assembly can lead to misalignment of the door and disruption of the tight fit of the seal.
Installing the door and final assembly
When all the elements are prepared and installed in new places, you can begin hanging the door. Lift the sash and carefully place it on the lower axis. Here again you will need the help of a second person to accurately align the holes in the top hinge with the mating parts on the body.
Insert the mounting bolts into the top hinge and tighten them. Do not clamp them all the way right away - first you need to ensure the possibility of adjustment. Check that the door rotates freely on the new axis. If the movement is tight, the hinges may be skewed.
Reinstall the plinth grille and decorative panels. Make sure that all latches click into place. Now you can check the operation of of the magnetic lock or the mechanical lock, if provided by the design.
The final touch is to install all the removed plugs in the places where the fasteners are now located. This will give the product a finished factory look. Wipe the surface with a damp cloth to remove fingerprints and dust accumulated during operation.
Adjusting and checking tightness
After installation, be sure to check the tightness of the door around the entire perimeter. Take a piece of paper and press it between the seal and the body in different places. If the sheet is pulled out with force along its entire length, then the tightness is normal.
If in some place the paper falls out freely, the height of the loops needs to be adjusted. On many models Atlant or Indesit the height is adjusted by turning the lower bushing or loosening the bolts of the upper hinge and then moving the sash.
Also check the operation of the door open alarm. Hold the door open for a couple of minutes - does the beep sound? If not, the sensor wire may have been damaged during relocation or it did not fit into the groove.
Let the refrigerator stand turned off for another 15-20 minutes before turning it on network. This will allow the oil in the compressor (if it has been shaken during tilting) to return to the crankcase, although when the doors are hung, the unit usually does not tilt critically.
Frequent errors and troubleshooting
One of the common mistakes is the loss of fasteners. Small washers or specific screws may roll under the refrigerator. To avoid this, use a magnetic tray or container for all parts as you work.
Another problem is overtightening the bolts. Excessive force may strip the threads in the plastic housing or deform the metal hinge. Tighten the fasteners tightly, but without fanaticism, using moderate force.
If, after rehanging, the door begins to touch the cabinet or adjacent furniture, check the installation level of the refrigerator itself. It is possible that when moving equipment to access the rear wall, the adjustable legs became misaligned. Adjust them so that the body falls back slightly.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the seal has become deformed or has lost elasticity after removal, it must be replaced. The old rubber profile may not provide the required tightness at the new bend.
If the holes on the new side do not match or are missing, do not try to drill the housing yourself. This may indicate that your model does not support reverse, or you are using the wrong holes. In this case, checking with technical documentation is mandatory.
Is it possible to rehang the door on a built-in refrigerator?
Yes, on most built-in models this is possible, but the process is more complicated. You will need to dismantle the façade furniture pad, rehang it, and then re-attach it to the refrigerator door. The sliding mechanism may also require reconfiguration.
What to do if the hinge bolts are rusty?
Do not use excessive force to avoid tearing off the caps. Spray the joints generously with penetrating lubricant (WD-40) and let sit for 15-20 minutes. You can slightly warm the metal with a hairdryer, but avoid getting hot air on the plastic body and seals.
Do you need to defrost the refrigerator before rehanging?
Complete defrosting is not necessary if you work quickly. However, if there is a lot of ice in the freezer, it is better to turn off the appliance in advance. Ice may fall out when the door is tilted, and moisture may get on the electrical contacts of the hinges.
How long does it take to rehang the door?
For an experienced craftsman, the process takes 15-20 minutes. For a beginner doing this for the first time with breaks to study the instructions and search for tools, the work can take from 40 minutes to 1 hour.
Will the warranty remain valid after re-hanging it yourself?
In most cases, the warranty is preserved, since the design provides for this operation by the user. However, if in the process you damage the case, break threads or break plastic, the warranty case will not be recognized. Proceed with caution.