Faced with a refrigerator breakdown, many apartment owners are thinking about doing their own repairs in order to save money and time. Replacing the compressor is one of the most difficult procedures in servicing household appliances, requiring not only precision, but also the presence of specialized equipment. If you are determined to connect the unit yourself, you will have to deal with sealing the system, soldering copper tubes and electrical switching.
However, before starting the active phase of work, you need to understand that domestic refrigerator is not just a box with a motor, but a complex thermodynamic system. Installation errors can lead to failure of the new unit or, even worse, to a fire hazard. In this article we will analyze in detail all stages of the process, paying special attention to technical nuances and precautions.
It is important to note that tightness of the circuit is a critical parameter, the loss of which will instantly disable the system due to moisture and air ingress. Therefore, every step you take must be verified. We will consider the preparation of tools, the process of dismantling old equipment, soldering features and the final check of the functionality of the entire system.
Necessary tools and safety measures
Before starting any work with refrigeration equipment, it is necessary to assemble a complete arsenal of tools. Without specialized equipment, it is almost impossible to perform high-quality work installation of a compressor as household methods such as sealants or electrical tape do not work here. You will need a professional approach.
- 🔥 Gas torch or soldering iron for working with copper tubes.
- 🔧 Set of pipe cutters, rollers and cleaning brushes.
- ⚙️ Vacuum pump and pressure gauge station for refrigerant charging.
- 🔌 Multimeter and insulating materials for electrical equipment.
Particular attention should be paid to safety. Working with refrigerants and open fire requires compliance with strict rules. The room should be well ventilated, and there should be no flammable objects in the immediate vicinity. The electrical network to which the device is connected must be grounded.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Any manipulations with live electrical components are prohibited!
It is also worth remembering that residual pressure may remain in the system. Pierce the sealed tube of the old unit only after making sure that there are no sparks or sources of fire nearby. This is a standard, but vital procedure.
Dismantling the old compressor and preparing the site
The process of removing a faulty unit begins with clearing access to the technical area. Usually compressor located in the lower rear part of the refrigerator and covered with a casing. Remove the protective panel by unscrewing the mounting bolts and inspect the condition of the motor mounts.
The next step is to disconnect the copper tubes. Don't try to just pull them out or cut them with wire cutters, as this will distort the edges. It is necessary to carefully saw through the tubes at a distance of 10-15 cm from the compressor housing. This will save the length for subsequent rolling or soldering.
After freeing the lines, disconnect the electrical wires. Before this, it is advisable to photograph the connection diagram or mark the wires with a marker so as not to confuse the phase, neutral and ground when installing a new device. Start relay Thermal relays are also removed from the old compressor if they are not included with the new one.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
When the old unit is removed, thoroughly clean the area from oil and dirt. Oil leaking from an old compressor can be corrosive, so use a rag and degreaser. The surface must be dry and clean for installing new equipment.
Installation of a new unit and soldering of pipes
Installation of the new compressor is carried out at standard mounting points. It is important to use original vibration isolating bushings or gaskets included in the kit. This will reduce the noise level during operation and prevent the transfer of vibration to the refrigerator body and pipelines.
The most critical point is the connection of copper tubes. The brazing method is used here. Before soldering, the ends of the tubes must be cleaned with a brush until shiny and degreased. Heating is carried out evenly so that the solder flows into the gap between the tube and the fitting under the action of capillary effect.
During the soldering process, it is critical not to overheat the tubes, since scale may form inside, which will subsequently clog. capillary system. To remove heat from the rubber seals (if they are located close), you can use a damp rag, but make sure that water does not get into the soldering zone.
How to avoid oxidation of copper when soldering?
When copper is heated in the presence of oxygen, oxidation occurs, which leads to formation of scales inside the tube. Professionals use nitrogen purge during soldering, displacing oxygen from the circuit. In domestic conditions, you can minimize this effect by using flux and working as quickly as possible, avoiding burnouts.
After the seams have cooled, check them visually. There should be no cracks, pits or solder deposits blocking the passage hole. The quality of soldering directly affects the durability of the repair.
Electrical circuit and relay connection
The electrical part of the connection requires care. There should be a connection diagram on the body of the new compressor or in the technical documentation. Typically, the terminals are marked with letters: C (Common - common), R (Run - working winding), S (Start - starting winding).
The starting relay is put on the compressor terminals in a certain position, which is indicated arrow UP or inscription. If you mix up and down, the relay may not work or burn out. Wires are connected to the relay according to color markings or previously made marks.
| Winding type | Designation | Resistance (Ohm) | Wire color (typical) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Common | C | Low | Black / White |
| Start | S | Medium | Blue / Red |
| Run | R | High | Green / Yellow |
| Ground | GND | 0 (to the body) | Green with stripe |
Use a multimeter to check the integrity of the windings before turning on for the first time. The resistance between the case and any contact should be infinite (there should be no continuity). This ensures that there is no breakdown on the body.
Evacuation and charging with refrigerant
Simply assembling the system is not enough - you need to remove air and moisture from it. To do this, a vacuum pump is connected to the service pipe (fitting). The process of pumping out air should last at least 15-20 minutes until a deep vacuum is achieved.
The moisture remaining in the system, when frozen in the capillary tube, forms an ice plug that blocks the circulation of freon. In addition, moisture reacts with the oil to form acid, which destroys the motor windings from the inside. Therefore, the stage evacuation cannot be ignored.
After evacuation, the system is charged with refrigerant. The type of refrigerant (R134a, R600a) and its quantity are indicated on the manufacturer's label of the refrigerator. Refueling is carried out under the control of a pressure gauge station, strictly according to the weight or pressure recommended by the manufacturer.
⚠️ Attention: The type of refrigerant must strictly correspond to the refrigerator model. Using the wrong gas can lead to an explosion (in the case of R600a) or destruction of the compressor.
After refueling, the service pipe is sealed. This must be done carefully so as not to release gas and damage the tube. The soldering area must be checked with a soap solution for leaks.
First launch and diagnostics of operation
The final stage is a test run. Plug in the refrigerator and listen. The compressor should start with a characteristic hum, without clanging, knocking or whistling. The start relay should click once at start and go silent.
Check the heating of the compressor housing. In the first 30-40 minutes of operation, it can heat up to 60-80 degrees, which is the norm for some models. However, excessive heating or, conversely, a cold suction pipe may indicate problems with refueling.
Evaluate the cooling. After an hour of operation, the temperature in the freezer should begin to drop, and frost should appear on the evaporator. If the refrigerator works, but does not cool, there may be an air lock in the system or not enough freon.
Frequent errors and troubleshooting
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes. One of the most common is insufficient vacuum time. This leads to the refrigerator working intermittently or stopping cooling after a week.
Another mistake is using the wrong oil or using too much oil. The oil must be strictly the same brand as in the system (mineral or synthetic), otherwise separation and blockage of the capillary will occur. Refrigerant and the oil must be chemically compatible.
Poor insulation of electrical contacts is also common. Vibration can weaken the contact over time, causing arcing and melting of the connector. All connections must be securely fixed.
Is it possible to replace a compressor without a vacuum pump?
Theoretically, some craftsmen use the method of “pushing” with freon, but this is a homemade method. Without a vacuum pump, it is impossible to remove moisture, which is guaranteed to lead to failure in the future. For quality repairs, a vacuum seal is required.
Why does the new compressor hum loudly?
The reasons may be different: incorrect installation (touching the housing), a defect in the unit itself, or problems with the starting relay. Also, a hum can occur due to water hammer if excess oil has entered the system.
How to understand that the compressor has burned out?
Symptoms: lack of startup (only a relay click is heard), a burning smell, a breakdown on the housing (the indicator screwdriver on the housing lights up when turned on), or constant operation without turning off and without cold.
Do I need to change the filter drier when replacing the compressor?
Yes, definitely. The old filter is already saturated with moisture and oil breakdown products. Installing a new filter-drier is a standard procedure for any opening of the circuit.