The situation when Beko two-chamber refrigerator the upper chamber suddenly stops cooling, while the lower section continues to operate normally, is one of the most common malfunctions. Users often experience that food in the refrigerator compartment begins to deteriorate, condensation appears on the walls or, conversely, an ice crust forms, while the temperature in the freezer remains consistently low. Such desynchronized behavior of the unit indicates a violation of the refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the temperature control system.
Unlike older models with separate compressors, modern devices Beko are most often equipped with one motor that services both circuits. This means that technically the system is unified, and the problem lies in the distribution of cold or control of its supply. If you notice that the compressor hums continuously or, conversely, turns on too rarely, this is the first signal that thermoregulation it is broken. Ignoring the first symptoms can lead to more serious consequences, including the failure of expensive components.
In this article we will examine in detail the mechanical and electronic reasons why the refrigerator does not freezebut the freezer is working normally. You will learn how to carry out initial diagnostics yourself, which components are checked first and when you need to call a technician. Understanding the operating principles of your model Beko will help you avoid unnecessary costs for repairs or purchasing new equipment.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice a burning smell, sparking, or hear loud clicks when the unit is operating, immediately unplug the device. Further operation can be dangerous to life and lead to a fire.
Main causes of refrigerant circulation problems
The most common cause of temperature imbalance is freon leakage. In two-chamber models, the refrigerant first passes through the evaporator of the freezer, releasing some of the cold, and then enters the refrigeration circuit. If the amount of gas in the system has decreased due to a micro-leakage, there is simply not enough gas for the full cycle. As a result, the freezer, located “at the inlet” of the flow, is still cooled, and the refrigerant reaches the upper chamber ineffectively or not at all.
The second serious problem is clogged capillary tube. During operation, oxidation products may accumulate in the system, moisture turns into ice plugs, or the oil thickens. This creates an obstacle to the movement of freon. The pressure in the system changes sharply: at the entrance to the capillary it increases, and at the exit it drops. The compressor begins to work with overload, trying to push through the plug, but the cooling capacity drops. In such cases, you can often hear that the motor is humming louder than usual, but does not turn off.
The third factor may be incorrect operation No Frost systems (if it is provided for by the model). If the fan distributing cold air stops or its impeller is blocked by ice, air stops flowing into the upper chamber. In this case, the evaporator itself may be cold, but without forced circulation the temperature in the refrigerator compartment increases. This is often accompanied by the appearance of ice on the back wall inside the chamber.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
The electronics of modern refrigerators Beko rely on sensor readings. If thermostat or the electronic temperature sensor fails, it may transmit incorrect data to the control module. For example, the sensor “thinks” that the chamber is already cold and does not give a command to turn on the compressor or open the damper. Visually, this looks like a complete absence of cold, although technically the unit is working.
In mechanical models, a thermostat with a capillary tube, which is attached to the evaporator, is responsible for control. If this tube is dislodged, weakened, or the mechanism itself is stuck in the off position, the compressor will not start. In electronic models temperature sensor (thermistor) changes its resistance as the temperature changes. An open circuit or a change in the nominal resistance leads to the fact that the “brains” of the refrigerator block the cooling of the upper chamber, believing that the temperature regime has been reached there.
It is also worth mentioning Air Control damper (or a similar air distribution system). This is a mechanical or electrical damper that regulates the flow of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment. If it is stuck closed due to ice or a broken actuator, the cold simply does not get to where it is needed. Checking this unit often requires partial disassembly of the internal panel.
How to check the sensor with a multimeter?
To check the thermistor, it must be removed and the resistance measured at room temperature. Then cool (for example, by putting it in a glass with ice) and measure again. The resistance should change smoothly. If the values stay the same or show a break, the sensor is faulty.
Problems with the defrost system (Defrost)
In refrigerators with the system No Frost regular defrosting of the evaporator is critical. If the defrost heating element, timer or fuse fails, ice begins to build up on the evaporator, which is hidden behind the back panel of the freezer. Over time, this ice block becomes so large that it blocks the air passages and blocks the fan. As a result, the freezer can still freeze (since ice freezes directly on the evaporator), and cold air stops flowing into the refrigerator.
Symptoms of such a malfunction are often:
- ❄️ The growth of snow or “fur coat” on the back wall of the freezer.
- 🔇 Absence of the characteristic sound of the fan.
- 💧 The appearance of puddles of water under the refrigerator or inside the bottom drawer.
- 🔊 Unusual noise or crackling when the fan tries to turn through the ice.
For diagnostics, you need to defrost the refrigerator for 24 hours (completely unplugged from the network with the doors open). If after switching on the unit worked normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem recurred, it means that the defrosting system is not functioning. Replacement will be required Defrost heating element, defrost sensor or fuse.
☑️ Diagnostics of the defrost system
Mechanical damage and wear of seals
Trivial mechanical reasons should not be discounted. If sealing rubber the door of the refrigerator compartment has lost elasticity, become dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The compressor can work without stopping, trying to compensate for the heat influx, but due to the design features of the system (freezer priority), the cold may not reach the upper compartment in the required volume.
It is also important to check the geometry of the door. If it is skewed, the hinges are loose or sagging, a tight fit will not be achieved. In two-chamber models Beko this is a common problem after long-term use or due to improper transportation. Warm air entering inside carries moisture, which condenses on the walls and products, creating the illusion of “sweat,” although in fact it is moisture from the room.
Another point is the cleanliness of the condenser (grids at the back or bottom). If it is clogged with dust, pet hair or fluff, heat transfer is disrupted. The compressor overheats, condensing efficiency decreases, and overall system performance decreases. First of all, cooling is lost in the lower priority chamber - the refrigeration chamber.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to remove frozen food or ice with a knife or sharp objects. A puncture of the evaporator will lead to an instant release of freon and moisture entering the system, which makes repairs extremely difficult and expensive.
Diagnostic table for main faults
To simplify the initial diagnosis, we have compiled a table that will help compare symptoms with possible causes. Remember that an accurate diagnosis can only be made by a specialist using a pressure manifold and a leak detector.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Characteristic symptom | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the refrigerator is warm | Freon leakage | The compressor is hot, runs non-stop | High (needs sealing and refilling) |
| Ice in freezer, the refrigerator is warm | Capillary clogged | Loud operation of the compressor, the tube at the entrance to the freezer is cold | Medium (nitrogen purging) |
| No cold, the compressor is not turns on | Thermostat/sensor is faulty | No clicks, ringing of the circuit indicates a break | Low (part replacement) |
| Fan noise, ice on the back wall | Failure of the defrosting system | Repeats after defrosting after 1-2 weeks | Medium (replacement of heating element or sensor) |
| Condensation on food, compressor hums constantly | Damaged seal | Visual gap, oak rubber to the touch | Low (seal replacement) |
What you can do yourself before calling a specialist
Before When filing a repair request, try to perform a number of simple steps that can eliminate the false fault. First, check complete defrosting the refrigerator. Unplug it, remove all food, open the doors and leave for at least 24 hours. This is necessary so that the ice in the hidden channels and on the evaporator completely melts. Often after such a procedure, the equipment begins to work properly.
Secondly, check the settings. In some models Beko with electronic control, the operating mode may have gone wrong (for example, the “Vacation” or “Super Freeze” mode is activated, which changes the operating algorithms). Make sure that the temperature is set correctly (usually +3...+5°C for the refrigerator compartment). Reset the settings to factory settings if the instructions allow this.
Thirdly, inspect the ventilation holes inside the cameras. They should not be tightly packed with food. For proper air circulation, there must be free space between the back wall and the food. If you find that the air duct damper is mechanically closed with a piece of ice or packaging, carefully clear the passage.
When professional repairs are needed
There are a number of situations when independent actions are useless or dangerous. If, after a 24-hour defrost, the refrigerator Beko turned on, worked for a couple of hours and again stopped freezing in the upper chamber, this is an almost guaranteed freon leak or blockage. To eliminate these problems, special equipment is required: a vacuum pump, scales for freon, pressure gauges and tools for soldering.
Also, the help of a specialist is needed if you hear that the compressor is trying to start, makes a click and turns off (the thermal relay is activated). This may indicate an interturn short circuit in the motor windings or a malfunction of the starting relay. Attempts to “reanimate” the motor by tapping or heating give only a temporary effect and can lead to final combustion of the unit.
Do not forget that modern refrigerators are complex electromechanical devices. Intervention refrigeration circuit without a license and skills in working with high pressure is prohibited. In addition, incorrect refrigerant charging (of the wrong type or volume) will lead to rapid compressor failure. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the diagnosis to professionals.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if the freezer is working but the refrigerator compartment is not?
For a short time - yes, if you put perishable foods in the freezer. However, prolonged operation in this mode is harmful to the compressor, which will wear out, trying to reach a non-existent temperature. In addition, in a warm chamber, bacteria will quickly multiply and mold will appear.
How long should the refrigerator cool down after defrosting?
After being plugged into the network, a working unit takes from 2 to 6 hours to reach operating mode. During this time, do not open the doors frequently or load food. If the temperature has not started to drop within 6-8 hours, the problem is of a technical nature.
Why does ice freeze in the refrigerator compartment if it does not freeze?
This often happens when there is a freon leak or a sensor malfunction. The system may erroneously turn on intensive cooling modes or not turn off the compressor, which is why moisture from the air and food freezes in the coldest areas (usually at the back wall or evaporator), forming an ice crust, although the overall temperature in the chamber remains high.
How often do you need to defrost a Beko No Frost refrigerator?
Technically, the No Frost system does not require manual defrosting. However, manufacturers recommend at least once a year (or when odor/ice appears) to completely turn off the device for a day for hygienic washing and checking the condition of hidden components. This extends the service life of the equipment.
What to do if after defrosting the refrigerator started working, but after a week it stopped working again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrosting system (the heating element, sensor or timer burned out). Ice blocked the channels again. In this case, it is necessary to replace the faulty element of the defrost system. You can do this yourself if you have the skills to work with a multimeter and access to the back panel of the freezer.