Connecting the Nord refrigerator relay: step-by-step instructions diagrams

The relay in the refrigerator Nord is a critical component responsible for starting the compressor and protecting against overloads. If the unit does not turn on, hums loudly or turns off a few seconds after starting, the problem with a 90% probability lies here. In this article we will figure out how to properly connect both types of relays on refrigerators Start-protective relay (it’s also “starting” or “current”) and thermal relay (thermostat) work in pairs, but are connected differently. In this article we will figure out how to properly connect both types of relays on refrigerators Nord old and new models, what tools will be needed, and what to pay attention to so as not to burn the compressor.

Many owners are afraid to undertake repairs themselves, for fear of worsening the breakdown. However, replacing a relay is one of the simplest operations if you strictly follow the diagrams and do not ignore safety precautions. The main thing is not to confuse the contacts and not to connect a relay from a different model: even externally identical parts may have different pinouts. We have collected current diagrams for popular series Nord (including Nord 213, Nord 232, Nord 403 etc.), and also added tips for diagnosing faults.

If your refrigerator Nord stops freezing, but the light inside is on, the problem is definitely not in the thermostat, but in the start-up relay or compressor. If the unit shows no signs of life at all (lights do not light up, no clicks are heard), both the thermal relay and the electrical part may be to blame. Before you run for a new relay, check its functionality - this will save time and money.

Types of relays in Nord refrigerators: how they differ

In refrigerators Nord two main types of relays are used, and they are often confused. Let's figure out what each is responsible for:

1. Start-up protection relay (RTP-1, RTK-X, LRA12-15, etc.)

This device performs two functions:

• 🔌 Start compressor: at the moment of switching on, it supplies current to the starting winding of the motor to overcome the inertia of the rotor.
• ⚡ Overheat protection: if the compressor runs too long or a short circuit occurs, the relay opens the circuit, preventing breakdown.

Externally, this is a plastic box attached to the compressor body. Inside there is a coil and contacts. The most common models for Nord: RTP-1 (old Soviet refrigerators), RTK-X (late modifications), as well as imported analogues Danfoss or Asco.

2. Thermal relay (thermostat, for example, TAM-112, K-59, WDF19)

This device controls the temperature in the chamber and turns the compressor on/off based on a signal from the sensor. If the thermostat fails, the refrigerator either does not turn on at all or works without stopping (which leads to icing and overheating of the motor).

• 🌡️ Regulates operating cycles: maintains the set temperature (usually from –18°C to +5°C).
• 🔄 Mechanical or electronic: in old Nord there are mechanical thermostats with a siphon tube, the new ones have electronic ones with thermistors.

⚠️ Attention: If you suspect a malfunction of the thermostat, do not rush to change it. First, check to see if the capillary sensor (the thin tube that goes from the thermostat to the evaporator) is frozen. Sometimes it is enough to warm it up with a hair dryer for the refrigerator to work.

Tools and materials for connecting the relay

Before you start work, prepare everything you need. Without the right tools, you risk damaging the contacts or getting an electric shock.

Basic set:

• 🔧 Screwdrivers: Phillips and flat (for removing the relay cover and compressor mounts).
• 📏 Multimeter: to check the resistance of the windings and circuit integrity. Even a budget model is suitable.
• 🔌 Pliers and side cutters: for crimping and stripping wires.
• 🧲 Voltage tester (indicator): to make sure that the refrigerator is de-energized.

Additionally (if replacement is required):

• 🔄 New relay: should be same modelsame as the original (the number is indicated on the case).
• 🧵 Insulating tape or heat shrink tubing: for insulating connections.
• 🔗 Terminals or lugs: if the wires are burnt and need to be replaced.

⚠️ Attention: If you are working with a Soviet-style refrigerator (for example, Nord Soviet-style (for example, Nord-213 or Nord-232), be careful with the wires - their insulation becomes fragile over time and can crumble at the slightest touch. Prepare pieces of heat shrink or cambric in advance to restore the insulation.

De-energize the refrigerator (remove the plug from the socket)

Take a photo of the original wire connection

Check the new relay for compliance with the model

Prepare tools and lighting-->

Connection diagram of the start-up relay on the refrigerator Nord

The start-up protection relay is connected directly to the compressor. There is usually a marking of contacts on its body, but if there is none, follow the standard pinout for Nord.

Typical circuit for relays RTP-1 and RTK-X:

Step-by-step instructions:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and turn its back side towards you.
2. Remove the protective casing from the compressor (usually it is secured with 2-4 screws).
3. Carefully disconnect the wires from the old relay, first photographing their location or marking them with a marker.
4. Connect the wires to the new relay according to the diagram:
   • 🔌 Phase wire (usually brown or red) - to the contact C.
   • 🔄 Wire from the starting winding (S) - k NO.
   • 🔄 Wire from the working winding (M) - k NC.

Fix the relay on the compressor (it should fit tightly to the body for heat sink).

Check the reliability of the connections and turn on refrigerator.

⚠️ Attention: If after connection the compressor hums, but does not start, or the relay starts to heat up, immediately turn off the power! This is a sign of incorrect connection or malfunction of the compressor windings. In this case, diagnostics with a multimeter will be required.

How to check the start-up protection relay. multimeter?

1. Set the multimeter to resistance test mode (200 Ohm).

2. Measure the resistance between the contacts C i NO: it should be ~20–40 Ohm (starting winding).

3. Between C and NC: ~10–20 Ohm (working winding).

4. Between NO and NC: the resistance should tend to infinity (open circuit).

If the readings are different, the relay is faulty.

Connecting the thermal relay (thermostat) in the Nord refrigerator

The thermal relay is usually located inside the chamber, next to the light lamp, or on the back wall (in models with a top-mounted freezer). Replacing it is a little more complicated than the starting relay, as it requires careful handling of the capillary tube. Nord usually located inside the chamber, next to the light lamp, or on the back wall (in models with a top freezer). Replacing it is a little more difficult than the start relay, as it requires careful handling of the capillary tube.

Thermostat connection diagram (using the example of TAM-112):

• 🔌 Pin 3: phase wire from the network (often red or brown).
• 🔌 Pin 4: wire to the compressor (usually black or blue).
• 🌡️ Capillary tube: must be securely attached to the evaporator (do not bend it!).

How to connect:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and remove the top cover inside the chamber (if the thermostat is there).
2. Disconnect the wires from the thermostat terminals, remembering their location. If the contacts are oxidized, clean them with sandpaper.
3. Carefully remove the capillary tube from the mounts on the evaporator. Do not pull it - only the thermostat body!
4. Connect the wires to the new thermostat in the same sequence. Usually the contacts are marked with numbers.
5. Install the thermostat in place, secure the capillary tube and check the operation.

⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the thermostat the refrigerator works without stopping, check:

• The capillary tube is connected correctly (it should fit tightly to the evaporator).
• Setting the thermostat: in some models Nord the adjusting screw inside the case allows you to change the temperature range.

Common mistakes when connecting a relay

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that lead to repeated breakdowns. Here's what you can't do when working with a relay Nord:

Top 5 mistakes:

• ❌ Messed up wires: connecting a phase to the starting winding instead of the working winding (or vice versa) leads to the compressor burning out.
• ❌ Ignoring markings: relay from Atlanta or Stinola may not fit Nord even if outwardly identical.
• ❌ Poor contact: oxidized or loose terminals cause heating and burning.
• ❌ Incorrect installation of the capillary tube: if it is not adjacent to the evaporator, the thermostat will operate incorrectly.
• ❌ Working under voltage: even if the refrigerator is turned off with the button, the capacitors can retain a charge.

How to avoid problems:

• 📸 Always photograph the original connection before dismantling.
• 🔍 Check the brand of the relay on the case (for example, RTP-1-15 or TAM-112-1M) and buy exactly the same analogue.
• 🛠️ Use terminal connectors for reliable connection of wires (twists oxidize over time).

In refrigerators Nord 403 i Nord 242 start-protection relay often fails due to compressor overheating. If a new relay burns out within a month, the problem is not in it, but in the interturn short circuit of the motor windings. In this case, the compressor will need to be replaced.

Diagnostics of relay faults: when to change and when not to change

The relay does not always require replacement. Sometimes it is enough to clean the contacts or eliminate the cause of overheating. Here's how to determine what exactly is wrong:

Signs of a faulty start-up relay:

• 🔊 The compressor hums, but does not start (relay clicks are heard).
• ⚡ The relay gets hot or smells like burning.
• 🔄 The refrigerator turns on for 5-10 seconds and turns off.

Signs of a thermal relay malfunction:

• ❄️ The refrigerator does not turn off and freezes ice.
• 🌡️ Temperature in the chamber does not correspond to the installed one (too high or low).
• 🔌 The refrigerator does not respond to turning the thermostat knob.

How to check without a multimeter:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and remove the relay.
2. Shake it: if something is rattling inside (for example, a broken spring), the part must be replaced.
3. Look at the contacts: if they are blackened or melted, the relay is faulty.

⚠️ Attention: If the compressor does not start, but the relay clicks, the problem may be in starting capacitor (if it is in diagram). In some models Nord the capacitor is built into the relay, in others it is installed separately.

Features of relay connection in old and new Nord models

Refrigerators Nord were produced from the 1960s to the 2000s years, and their design is very different. Let's figure out what needs to be taken into account when working with different generations of equipment.

Old models (Nord-213, Nord-232, Nord-242):

• 🕰️ Used mechanical thermostats (TAM-112, K-59) with a capillary tube.
• ⚡ Start-up protection relay - type RTP-1, often without contact markings.
• ⚠️ Wires with fragile rubber insulation - require careful handling.

New models (Nord 403, Nord 512, etc.):

• 📱 Possible electronic thermostats with sensors (for example, WDF19).
• 🔌 Start-up protection relay - modern models (RTK-X, Danfoss), often with a built-in capacitor.
• 🔧 The terminals may not be screw, but spring (a special puller is required).

Universal tips:

• 📌 In old Nord the relay is attached to the compressor with one screw —don’t lose it it!
• 🔍 In new models, it may be necessary reflashing the electronic unit after replacing the thermostat (contact a specialist).

⚠️ Details of the connection diagrams may vary depending on the year of manufacture of the refrigerator. If your model Nord was produced before 1990, check the electrical diagram from the instructions (it can be found in the technical documentation archives).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about connecting relays in Nord refrigerators

Is it possible to replace a relay from Nord with an analogue from another refrigerator?

Theoretically, yes, but only if the parameters match: voltage, operating current and type of mounting For example, relay RTP-1 from North interchangeable with similar ones from Minsk or ZIL, but not suitable for Atlanta with electronic control. Always check the markings!

Why does the new relay burn out after a few days?

This is a sign turn-to-turn short circuit in the compressor or current overloadCheck:

• Resistance of the compressor windings (between C-S i C-M should be ~20–50 Ohm).
• Network voltage (should be 220V ±10%).
• Condition of the capacitor (if any).

If the parameters are normal, and the relay still lights up - there is a problem with the quality of the part (possibly a defect).

How to check the thermal relay without a multimeter?

Turn off the refrigerator, remove the thermostat and put it in the freezer for 10-15 minutes, then take it out and quickly connect it to the wires (observing the polarity!). If not, replacement is required.

What to do if, after replacing the relay, the compressor does not start?

Check:

1. The correct connection of the wires (check the diagram).
2. The voltage in the socket (it may have worked) automatic).
3. Compressor condition: if it hums, but does not rotate, the rotor may be blocked.

If everything is in order, but the motor does not start, try to manually turn its shaft (through a belt drive or with a screwdriver through the technological hole). Sometimes this helps to “move” the rotor from a dead center.

Where to buy a relay for a Nord refrigerator?

Original and compatible relays are sold:

• In spare parts stores for household appliances (for example, Rembytekhnika, 220 Volt).
• On marketplaces (Yandex Market, Ozon, Wildberries) - search by the exact name of the model.
• At flea markets (for example, Avito) - but here there is a high risk of running into a used faulty part.

Average price: 500–1500 rubles for a start-up relay and 800–2500 rubles for the thermostat.