The situation when the refrigerator compartment of your Atlanta suddenly becomes warm and food begins to spoil, despite the fact that the freezer continues to work properly, is a classic breakdown scenario. Many owners encounter this phenomenon and often wonder why the temperature balance in a seemingly sealed system is disrupted. This is not just a minor glitch, but a signal that refrigerant circulation or its management is violated. Understanding the physics of the process will help you quickly diagnose the problem and avoid costly repairs if the problem is solved by a simple setup.
Refrigerators Atlant, especially models with one compressor, are designed so that the cold is generated in the evaporator, which is most often located in the freezer compartment or behind the rear wall of the refrigerator compartment. This cold must then be distributed throughout the entire volume. If it is warm in the main chamber, it means that the cold transfer mechanism is blocked or the efficiency of the system has decreased. You should not ignore the first signs, such as constant operation of the motor no shutdown or the formation of excessive ice.
In this article we will analyze in detail the main reasons why the temperature regime is disturbed and will help you determine whether you can cope with the problem yourself or you will need to call a technician. It is important to understand that diagnostics is the first and most important step. Wrong actions can lead to complete failure of the equipment. Let's figure out what exactly is happening inside your unit.
The principle of operation of the No Frost and drip defrosting system
To understand why it is warm in the refrigerator Atlant you need to know how it should work normally. In models with a No Frost or mixed type system, cold air is forced by a fan from the freezer into the refrigerator through special channels. If this air flow is blocked by an ice plug or the fan itself fails, circulation stops. As a result, there is an icy cold in the freezer, and room temperature at the top.
In units with drip system (crying evaporator) the situation is different. Here the cold is transmitted through the back wall, which periodically cools and thaws. If the refrigerator is warm, it may mean that the wall has stopped cooling due to a lack of refrigerant or a problem with the compressor. In such models, the absence of a characteristic “gurgling” or hissing sound during operation may be an alarming signal.
Key element in both cases it is thermostat or an electronic control module. They are the ones who give the command to start the compressor. If the temperature sensor in the refrigerator compartment "lies" and reports that it is already cold there, the compressor may not turn on long enough to cool the food, although there is still a supply of cold in the freezer.
Faults in the defrost system (Defrost)
One of the most A common reason why it becomes warm is a failure in the automatic defrosting system. In No Frost models, the evaporator, located behind the plastic panel, becomes covered with frost during operation. It should turn on periodically Atlanta becomes warm, there is a failure in the automatic defrost system. In No Frost models, the evaporator, located behind the plastic panel, becomes covered with frost during operation. Should turn on periodically Defrosting heating element, which melts this ice. If the heating element burns out, the defrost sensor or timer (defrost relay) breaks, the ice stops melting.
Over time, the ice mass grows so much that it blocks the channels through which cold air should flow into the refrigeration compartment. The fan continues to hum, but the air simply does not pass through the ice plug. As a result, the freezer is working hard, trying to cool itself, and the main chamber is hot. This is a classic symptom of a “clogged evaporator.”
How to check the defrost system?
To check the defrost heating element, you need to “ring” it with a multimeter for resistance. The normal value is usually between 200 and 400 ohms. If the device shows a break (one on the left or infinity), the heating element has burned out and requires replacement. Also, the fuse in the heating element circuit often fails.
It is important to note that the defrosting process in this case can take up to 24 hours. Simply turning off the refrigerator for a couple of hours will not be enough, since ice may be in hard-to-reach places in the air ducts. If after complete defrosting the refrigerator worked normally, but a week later the problem recurred, look for a fault in the elements defrost.
Freon leakage and problems with the compressor
If the refrigerator Atlant is warm, but the freezer is still freezing, this may indicate a partial loss refrigerant (freon). Freon circulates through a system of tubes, picking up heat. If there is a leak, its quantity becomes insufficient to fully cool a large volume of the refrigerator compartment, but it is still enough for a small freezer volume. This condition is often called “working on residues.”
The compressor in this situation works almost non-stop, trying to reach the set temperature. You may notice that the motor is hot, and the condenser grill on the back (or sides) is heating unevenly: some are hot, and some are at room temperature. This is a sure sign that gas has run out not completely, but its pressure has dropped.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Nature of compressor operation |
|---|---|---|
| Heat at the top, ice in the freezer | Capillary clogged or leaking | Works constantly or with short pauses |
| Warm everywhere, the motor is cold | Start protection is faulty relay | Clicks and immediately turns off |
| Heat everywhere, motor is hot | Complete freon leak | Works without stopping, not cooling |
| Temperature floats | The thermostat is faulty | It rarely turns on or does not turn off |
It is impossible to eliminate the freon leak on your own. Special equipment is required to locate the damage site, solder the tubes and refill with new gas. Attempts to simply “add gas” without eliminating the hole will give a temporary effect for a couple of weeks, after which the situation will repeat. Tightness systems are the main condition for the operation of the refrigerator.
Problems with the thermostat and sensors
The thermostat (thermostat) is the “brain” that decides when to turn the compressor on and off. In older models Atlant this is a mechanical device with a bellows and a capillary tube, in new ones there is an electronic sensor. If the thermostat is faulty, it may “think” that the chamber is already cold enough and not give the command to start the motor. As a result, it becomes warmer in the freezer later, since the cold remains there longer, and food melts in the main chamber.
Often the problem lies not in the sensor itself, but in its location. The mechanical thermostat capillary tube may have become dislodged or lost contact with the evaporator. In electronic models, the temperature sensor contacts oxidize NTC. Diagnostics is simple: if when you turn the thermostat knob to maximum (or in test mode), the compressor does not start and the light inside is on, it is probably in the control circuit.
It is also worth checking door seal. If the elastic does not fit tightly, warm air constantly enters the chamber. The temperature sensor detects the increase and causes the compressor to work more often, but if the heat flow is too great, the refrigerator simply does not have time to cool. Check the magnetic valve around the perimeter of the door.
Clogged capillary tube
Another technical reason why in the refrigerator Atlant heat means the capillary tube is clogged. This is a thin copper tube in which throttling (sharp expansion) of freon occurs. Over time, microscopic oxide particles or paraffin plugs may form in the system (especially if the wrong oil or freon was used). These plugs block the flow of refrigerant.
The symptoms of a blockage are very similar to a freon leak: the compressor is loud, hot, the condenser is only partially warm, but there is no cold. However, if there is a blockage, the pressure in the system may be normal, but there is no circulation. Often, you can hear a characteristic murmur or complete silence where there should be the sound of flowing gas.
Removing the blockage requires professional cleaning of the system with nitrogen under pressure and vacuuming. At home, it is almost impossible to “break through” a capillary without the risk of damaging other nodes. If you hear the compressor humming, but there is no cold for the second day, the probability of a blockage or leak is more than 80%.
Diagnostics and procedure
Before calling a technician, carry out an initial diagnosis. This will help you more accurately describe the problem to a specialist and, possibly, avoid an unnecessary visit if the problem is with the settings. Start with a visual inspection and listening to the operation of the unit.
☑️ Primary diagnostics
If after defrosting the refrigerator started working, but after a week it stopped cooling again in the main chamber - the problem is in the defrosting system (heating element, sensor, timer). If defrosting did not help at all, and the compressor runs without stopping, there is most likely a freon leak or a blockage. If the compressor does not turn on at all, check the thermostat and start relay.
⚠️ Attention: If you smell burnt wiring or see sparking in the compressor area, immediately unplug the cord from the outlet. Continued use may result in a fire. Do not attempt to repair live electrical parts.
It is also important to consider the age of the equipment. Older models Atlant are characterized by compressor wear and loss of elasticity of seals. New models with electronics are more often characterized by failures in the control module or sensors. The critical factor is the time of continuous operation of the compressor: if it does not turn off for more than 2-3 hours with the door closed, this is an emergency mode.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it is warm in the main chamber and cold in the freezer?
For a short time - yes, but not for long. Food in the refrigerator will quickly deteriorate due to the proliferation of bacteria at above-zero temperatures. In addition, the compressor operates in emergency mode (without rest), which can lead to its overheating and burnout of the windings, which is much more expensive to repair.
How long does it take to defrost the refrigerator to check?
It takes at least 12 hours for the ice plug in the channels of the No Frost system to completely melt, and it is better to leave it turned off for a day with open doors. Insufficient defrosting time will not give an accurate diagnostic result.
Why is the back wall of the refrigerator hot?
This is normal for the condenser. During operation, the refrigerator takes heat from the chambers and throws it out through the grille at the back or on the sides. However, if it is hot (it is impossible to hold your hand) and the refrigerator does not cool, this is a sign of overload or problems with heat transfer.
Can I add freon myself?
No. To do this, you need a manifold, a scale, a vacuum pump and a license to work with refrigerants. In addition, you need to know exactly the type of freon (R134a or R600a) and the brand of oil. Self-refueling “by eye” will lead to compressor failure.
What to do if the Atlant refrigerator makes a loud noise and does not cool?
Loud noise (knock, clang) in the absence of cold often indicates that the compressor is trying to start, but cannot (jammed or high pressure), or is running “dry” without Freon. In this case, you need to immediately disconnect it from the network and call a technician.