The situation when your Atlant refrigerator stops freezing or starts working endlessly is familiar to many owners of this equipment. Often the cause of such malfunctions is the failure of the main unit of the cooling system - compressor. Replacing this unit yourself is a complex procedure that requires not only special tools, but also a deep understanding of the principles of operation of the refrigeration unit.
Before taking active steps, you need to soberly assess your strengths and the availability of the necessary equipment. Refrigeration circuit is sealed and under pressure, so simple replacement of parts will not work here. You will need a vacuum pump, a pressure gauge station and skills with a blowtorch. If you are confident in your skills, this instruction will help you go all the way from diagnostics to starting the updated unit.
However, you should immediately warn: inept handling of refrigerants and open fire can lead to serious consequences. Work on soldering copper tubes and evacuating the system should be carried out in a well-ventilated area away from flammable objects. In addition, improper refueling freon can permanently damage the equipment, so the accuracy of measurements is critical here.
Diagnostics of a compressor malfunction
The first step should always be a thorough diagnosis, since the symptoms of a non-working compressor can be caused by other reasons. Often owners blame the motor when the problem lies in start relay or the thermostat. If the refrigerator hums but does not start, or starts for a few seconds and clicks, this is a sure sign of problems with the electrical part or mechanical jamming.
To check, you need to ring the motor windings with a multimeter. Normal resistance between the contacts indicates the integrity of the windings, but does not guarantee the serviceability of the mechanics. If the resistance is zero or infinity, then electric motor it has burned out and requires replacement. It is also worth checking whether the winding is breaking through to the housing, which can trigger the circuit breakers.
⚠️ Attention: If the compressor is hot to the touch and makes loud metallic knocks, this indicates mechanical destruction of the internal components. In this case, repair is impossible, only a complete replacement will help.
Sometimes the problem lies when the compressor tries to compress liquid freon, which leads to jamming of the piston group. In rare cases, it can be “unwedged” by applying increased voltage, but this is too risky for a home workshop. It’s easier and more reliable to immediately prepare a new unit that matches the model of your refrigerator. hydraulic shockwhen the compressor tries to compress liquid freon, which leads to jamming of the piston group. In rare cases, it can be “unwedged” by applying increased voltage, but this is too risky for a home workshop. It’s easier and more reliable to immediately prepare a new unit that matches the model of your refrigerator.
Choosing a suitable compressor for replacement
Selecting a new spare part is not just buying the first motor you come across in a store. Atlant refrigerators equipped with various models of compressors, and it is important to select a unit with similar characteristics. The main parameters are the cooling capacity, the type of refrigerant (R134a or R600a) and the type of oil used in the system.
Pay attention to the markings of the old compressor, even if it does not work. Usually letters and numbers are stamped on the case, by which you can determine the manufacturer and model. For example, units Atlant, Danfoss or Secop can be interchangeable provided that the conditions for power and overall dimensions are met.
Below is a table of correspondence between popular compressor models for various series of refrigerators:
| Atlant refrigerator model | Refrigerant type | Recommended compressor | Cooling capacity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Atlant MHM-1700 | R134a | C-K 43 NL1.1G | 118 W |
| Atlant MKhM-2808 | R134a | Aspera NJ9126G | 165 W |
| Atlant MKhM-4011 | R600a | Embraco EMT6140G | 95 W |
| Atlant MKhM-6025 | R134a | Danfoss TL43G | 135 W |
When purchasing, be sure to check whether start relay is included in the kit or make sure that your old relay will fit the new motor. It is also important to buy a filter drier, since when the circuit is opened, the old one becomes saturated with moisture and ceases to perform its functions.
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
High-quality repairs are impossible without specialized tools. You will need not only a standard set of screwdrivers and pliers, but also equipment for working with the refrigeration circuit. A critically important element is gas burner with a cylinder, since the connection of copper tubes is made by brazing.
To refuel the system, a vacuum pump and a filling station with pressure gauges are required. Vacuuming is the process of removing air and moisture from the circuit, without which normal operation of the refrigerator is impossible. The remaining moisture will freeze in the capillary tube and cause an ice plug.
- 🔧 A set of pipe cutters and flaring tools for preparing copper connections.
- 🔥 Gas torch and solder with flux (phosphorus-containing for copper).
- 🌬️ Vacuum pump and manometric manifold.
- ⚖️ Electronic scales for accurate refrigerant dosage.
Prepare the workplace: it should be dry, well lit and ventilated. Remove all flammable items as refrigerant vapors combined with open flames may form an explosive mixture.
⚠️ Warning: The use of oxygen torches is prohibited due to the risk of copper oxidation. Use only propane-butane mixtures or MAPP gas.
Take care in advance to protect your hands and eyes. Copper shavings and solder spatter can cause injury, so glasses and gloves are required. Also have a fire extinguisher on hand just in case.
Removing the old compressor and preparing the system
The dismantling process begins by disconnecting the refrigerator from the power supply and moving it away from the wall. Remove the rear panel to gain access to the compressor compartment. Carefully disconnect the wires from the motor terminals and remove starting relay along with the capacitor.
The next step is bleeding the refrigerant. It is strictly forbidden to simply bite through the tubes if there is still pressure left in the system, as the oil may splash and the gas may ignite. Puncture the process fitting or carefully file the tube so that the gas comes out slowly. After this, you can bite through the copper tubes at a distance of 10-15 cm from the compressor.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
Remove the old compressor from its mounts. It is usually secured to four studs with rubber bushings. Be careful not to damage other system components such as the condenser or evaporator. After removing the unit, inspect the condition of the tubes: if they are blackened inside, flush the system with nitrogen.
Installing a new unit and soldering connections
Install the new compressor in place of the old one, using the same fasteners. If the rubber bushings become stiff or cracked, be sure to replace them to avoid vibration and noise during operation. Connect the wires to the new motor according to the diagram, which is usually marked on the relay or compressor housing.
Now you need to embed a new one filter-drier. It is installed on the capillary tube on the condenser side. Insert the tubes into the fittings of the compressor and filter with a small gap (2-3 mm) for high-quality heating. Heat the connection with a torch and apply solder. It should flow into the gap under the influence of capillary effects.
- 🔥 Heat the tube evenly, avoiding local overheating at one point.
- 💧 Do not allow flux to get inside the tubes, use a minimum of active substances.
- 👀 Control the quality of the seam: it should be smooth and shiny, without pores or cavities.
After soldering all connections (discharge and suction pipes, filter), it is necessary to carry out pressure testing with nitrogen. This will allow you to identify possible leaks before evacuation. The pressure during pressure testing should be about 10-12 atmospheres.
What to do if there is no nitrogen?
As a last resort, you can use dry air, but this is less effective. It is better to rent a nitrogen cylinder, since it is chemically inert and does not oxidize copper when heated.
Evacuating and filling the refrigerator with freon
Evacuating is the most important stage on which the durability of the repair depends. Connect the vacuum pump to the process connection and turn it on. The process should last at least 30-40 minutes. The manometer should show a deep vacuum (the arrow will go negative or the digital indicator will show micron values).
After reaching a vacuum, close the valve on the manifold and turn off the pump. Leave the system for 15-20 minutes to check for leaks. If the pressure gauge needle does not move, you can start refueling. Refilling is carried out strictly according to the weight indicated on the label inside the refrigerator or in the technical documentation.
⚠️ Attention: Refilling or underfilling freon will lead to incorrect operation of the refrigerator. A lack of refrigerant will cause overheating of the compressor, and an excess will cause liquid shock and poor cooling.
Turn on the refrigerator and check the operation of the system. Assess the temperature of the evaporator and condenser, listen to the operation of the compressor. If all parameters are normal, melt the process pipe and install the back cover in place.
Common mistakes and troubleshooting
Even experienced professionals sometimes make mistakes that nullify all efforts. One of the most common is insufficient vacuum time. Moisture remaining in the system will quickly damage the new compressor.
Another mistake is using the wrong oil or mixing different types of oils. Mineral oil should not be mixed with synthetic (polyester) oil, as they may coagulate and clog the capillary tube. Always use the oil recommended by the compressor manufacturer.
- ❌ Soldering without nitrogen purging leads to the formation of an oxide film inside the tubes.
- ❌ Filling by eye without a scale often leads to unstable operation.
- ❌ Ignoring the replacement of the filter-drier guarantees repeated breakdown.
If after starting the refrigerator freezes poorly, there may be air left in the system or a blockage has occurred. In this case, the evacuation and filling procedure will have to be repeated.
Is it possible to replace a compressor without a vacuum pump?
Theoretically, there are methods of “squeezing out” the air with freon itself, but they are extremely ineffective and do not guarantee the removal of moisture. Without a vacuum pump, the risk of repeated failure is more than 90%. For high-quality repairs, the use of a vacuum sealer is mandatory.
How much does it cost to replace a compressor in a service center compared to DIY?
The cost of work in a service center consists of the price of the spare part and the work of the technician. Self-replacement allows you to save on work, but requires the purchase of expensive equipment (pump, station), which will only pay off with frequent repairs. For a one-time replacement, it’s cheaper to call a technician if you don’t have a tool.
What is the service life of a new compressor?
If installed correctly and following the refueling technology, the new compressor will last as long as the factory one - on average 10-15 years. The key factor is the cleanliness and dryness of the refrigeration circuit.