Failure compressor is one of the most serious malfunctions that the owner of a refrigeration unit may encounter equipment Indesit. If the unit stops freezing, hums, but does not start, or, conversely, works silently and does not cool, most likely the problem lies in the heart of the system - the motor-compressor. Replacing this unit yourself requires not only technical skills, but also specialized tools, since the process involves working with refrigerant and high pressure.
In this article we will look in detail at how to correctly diagnose a breakdown, select a suitable replacement and install a new unit. It is important to understand that replacing a compressor on a refrigerator Indesit is a complex technical process that includes dismantling the old motor, soldering copper pipes, evacuation of the system and precise charging with freon. Mistakes at any stage can lead to repeated breakdown or even an explosive situation, so carefully study all the nuances before starting work.
Before taking active steps, you need to make sure that you have all the necessary equipment. Without specialized tools, such as a torch, a pressure gauge station and a vacuum pump, it will not be possible to do the job efficiently. In addition, you will need exact knowledge of the model of your refrigerator, since motor-compressors for different series Indesit may differ in power, dimensions and type of refrigerant.
Fault diagnosis and selection of a new unit
The first step should always be thorough diagnostics. Do not rush to buy a new compressor until you are sure that this is the problem. Often, symptoms of a refrigerator not working can be caused by a freon leak, a malfunctioning thermostat, or a faulty start relay. If the motor hums but does not start, or starts for a couple of seconds and turns off with a click, this may indicate that the piston group is jammed or the windings are burned out.
When choosing a new unit, it is critically important to pay attention to the markings. Refrigerators Indesit can be equipped with compressors from various manufacturers, such as Aspera, Secop or Embraco. On the nameplate of the old unit you will find information about the type of refrigerant (R134a or R600a), capacity and electrical characteristics. Using a motor that is not suitable for power or type of freon will lead to incorrect operation of the cooling system.
⚠️ Attention: Never use a compressor designed for one type of refrigerant with another type of oil or freon. For example, compressors for R600a (isobutane) have less power and a different oil than models for R134a. Failure to comply with this rule is guaranteed to disable the equipment.
It is also worth checking the condition of the starting relay and capacitor. Sometimes replacing these inexpensive components will solve the problem without having to replace the entire motor. If diagnostics confirm the death of the compressor, purchase a new unit only from trusted suppliers who guarantee originality or high quality of the analogue.
Necessary tools and preparation of the workplace
To properly replace the compressor on the refrigerator Indesit you will need a specialized tool, which is rarely found in an ordinary home kit. The main tool will be a gas torch with a cylinder (usually a propane-butane or oxygen-propane mixture is used) for soldering copper connections. Also (necessary) is a pipe cutter, which allows you to make an even cut without deforming the tubes, and rolling to create tight connections.
The second most important component is a kit for filling and vacuuming. You will need a dual-fan gauge station, a vacuum pump, and a scale to accurately dose the refrigerant. Without vacuuming the system, moisture and air will remain inside, which will lead to the formation of acid in the oil and blockage of the capillary system with ice.
List of necessary tools and materials:
- 🔥 Gas torch with a cylinder and solder (copper-phosphorus or silver).
- 🔪 Pipe cutter, pliers and a set of keys.
- 📏 Manometer station, vacuum pump and freon cylinder.
- 🧹 Nitrogen cylinder (preferably) for purging the system.
- 🛡️ Personal protective equipment: gloves, glasses, respirator.
Prepare the workplace: it should be well ventilated, as when soldering and working with freon, harmful substances are released. Provide sufficient lighting in the compressor compartment area. Unplug the refrigerator from the power supply in advance and move it away from the wall to have free access to the rear panel.
Removing the old compressor and preparing the system
The dismantling process begins with removing the protective back cover of the refrigerator Indesit. Inside you will see a black barrel-shaped motor mounted on the frame and a condenser (grill at the back). The first step is to bleed off any remaining refrigerant. To do this, a neat cut or hole is made at the very bottom of the tube coming from the compressor. The gas must come out slowly so as not to take the oil with it from the system.
After releasing the pressure, you can begin to unsolder the tubes. The compressor usually has three terminals: two copper (for freon inlet and outlet) and one sealed steel tube (plug). Heat the soldering area with a torch and carefully remove the tubes. Be careful not to damage the capacitor and other components located nearby. Disconnect the electrical wires from the starting relay and motor terminals, having previously photographed the connection diagram.
Remove the compressor from the rubber shock absorbers or mounting bolts. In some models Indesit the motor simply hangs on the tubes, in others it is rigidly fixed. After removing the old unit, it is necessary to inspect the capacitor. Blow it with nitrogen or dry air to make sure there are no blockages. If the capacitor is damaged or heavily soiled, it is also better to replace it.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to open the system by soldering if there is pressure left in it. Make sure the gas is completely released. Also beware of open fire near the plastic elements of the refrigerator - use a metal screen to protect the case.
Check the condition of the suction and discharge tubes. If they are severely kinked or damaged, they should be replaced or carefully straightened. Before installing a new motor, it is recommended to flush the system with a special solvent or nitrogen under pressure to remove oil breakdown products and possible dirt.
Installing a new compressor and soldering connections
Installing a new one compressor is done in the reverse order of dismantling. Secure the motor to the frame using standard fasteners. It is important not to overtighten the bolts so as not to deform the body, but also to ensure reliable fixation, since vibrations during operation can be significant. Connect the electrical part: the starting relay and the protective thermal relay should sit tightly on the contacts.
The most critical stage is soldering the tubes. On a new compressor, process pipes are often closed with plastic plugs or filled with oil. Remove the plugs immediately before soldering to prevent moisture from the air from getting inside. Insert copper tubes into the compressor pipes with a gap of about 5-7 mm. Heat the joint evenly with a torch, then apply solder. It should flow into the gap under the action of the capillary effect, forming a sealed seam.
Soldering sequence:
- 🔸 First, the discharge tube (output to the condenser) is soldered.
- 🔸 Then the suction tube (input from evaporator).
- 🔸 Lastly, the process pipe for refueling is sealed.
When soldering, make sure that the flame does not get on the varnish coating of the motor windings, otherwise a breakdown will occur. Use a damp cloth or heat sink clamp to protect the compressor housing from overheating. After the seams have cooled, check them visually for holes or missing solders.
☑️ Check before soldering
Evacuation and refrigerant charging
After installing and soldering all connections, the system remains open to atmospheric air, which contains moisture. Moisture is the main enemy of the refrigeration system, since at low temperatures it freezes and clogs the capillary tube, and also reacts with the oil, forming acid. Therefore, the evacuation stage is mandatory.
Connect the hose from the vacuum pump to the process connection of the compressor. Turn on the pump and leave the system to pump out for at least 30-40 minutes. The pressure should drop to a deep vacuum. This will remove all moisture and air from the circuit. If the pressure gauge shows that the pressure begins to increase after turning off the pump, then there is a leak in the system that needs to be found and eliminated.
Table of charging parameters for popular Indesit models:
| Refrigerator model | Refrigerant type | Filling weight (d) | Suction pressure |
|---|---|---|---|
| Indesit C 138 | R134a | 115 ± 5 | 0.06 - 0.08 MPa |
| Indesit IB 18 | R600a | 55 ± 3 | 0.04 - 0.06 MPa |
| Indesit DS 320 | R134a | 130 ± 5 | 0.07 - 0.09 MPa |
| Indesit B 20 | R600a | 60 ± 3 | 0.05 - 0.07 MPa |
Refrigerant charging is carried out strictly according to the scales. Find the sticker on the refrigerator body (usually inside the chamber or on the back) where the exact mass of freon is indicated. Weigh the gas cylinder, open the valve at the station and supply gas until the weight of the cylinder decreases by the required value. For R600a (isobutane) this is critically important, since it is explosive when mixed with air.
Why can’t you refill “by eye” by pressure?
The pressure in the system depends on the ambient temperature. Refilling by pressure without scales will lead to either underfilling (poor cooling) or overfilling (liquid freon will enter the compressor and cause water hammer).
Starting and checking the tightness of the system
After refueling, it is necessary to solder the process pipe. Remove the station hose by quickly clamping the tube with a clamp and melt the end with a torch. Now you can plug in the refrigerator. The first start-up may be accompanied by increased noise - this is normal, as the oil is distributed throughout the system. Let the refrigerator operate for 30-40 minutes.
Check the tightness of all solder seams. To do this, you can use a soap solution: apply it to the connections and watch for the appearance of bubbles. If there are no bubbles, it means the assembly was done well. Also check the temperature of the condenser (grid at the back) - it should be hot evenly along the entire length, and the evaporator inside the chamber should begin to cool.
Tell signs of a successful replacement:
- ❄️ The freezer begins to gain temperature within 30-40 minutes.
- 🔊 The compressor operates smoothly, without vibrations or knocking.
- 🌡️ The condenser heats up evenly, without cold zones.
- ⏱️ On and off cycles correspond to the norm (approximately 10-15 minutes of operation, 15-20 minutes of rest).
If the refrigerator does not freeze or the compressor runs without stopping, the capillary tube may be clogged or moisture remains in the system. In this case, repeated evacuation and, possibly, replacement of the filter drier will be required.
⚠️ Attention: Isobutane (R600a), used in many modern models Indesit, is heavier than air and is explosive. When there is a leak, it accumulates at the bottom of the room. Avoid sparks when working with such systems and be sure to ventilate the room.
Frequent errors and troubleshooting
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that negate all the work. One of the most common is compressor overheating during soldering. If you heat the motor housing for too long, the varnish on the windings may burn, resulting in a short circuit. Always use heat-dissipating clips or a wet rag.
Another mistake is neglecting to replace the filter drier. This small element collects moisture and dirt. When replacing a compressor, the filter required needs to be replaced with a new one, since the old one is already saturated with moisture and will not be able to protect the new system. They also often forget to check the cleanliness of the capacitor, leaving combustion products of the old motor in it.
Possible problems after replacement:
- 🚫 The refrigerator is not turns on: Check the starting relay and the presence of voltage at the terminals.
- 🚫 Buzzes, but does not start: Perhaps the new compressor is jammed (defective) or the voltage in the network is too low.
- 🚫 Freezes weak: Lack of freon, clogged capillary or poor-quality evacuation.
If you are faced with a situation where everything was done according to the instructions, but there is no result, do not panic. Check the tightness again; perhaps a microcrack in the solder is slowly venting the gas. Use a leak detector or generously apply a soap solution to all joints.
Is it possible to use a compressor of higher power?
Theoretically, it is possible if the dimensions allow it. But this will lead to more frequent switching on, overloading the condenser and possible freezing of the evaporator. It is better to put it strictly according to the marking.
Questions and answers (FAQ)
How long does it take to completely replace a compressor?
For an experienced technician with a full set of equipment, the process takes from 1.5 to 3 hours. This includes dismantling, soldering, vacuuming (30-40 min) and refilling. At home, without experience, the time can increase to 5-6 hours.
Is it necessary to flush the system when replacing a compressor?
Yes, flushing with nitrogen or a special solvent is highly desirable, especially if the old compressor has burned out. Oil combustion products can quickly clog the capillary tube of a new motor.
Why does the refrigerator not turn off for a long time after replacing the compressor?
In the first hours of operation, this is normal - the system returns to normal. If the refrigerator operates for more than 12 hours without stopping, there may be an excess of freon, a leak, blockage or leakage of the chambers (the door seal does not fit well).
Is it possible to replace the R134a compressor with R600a?
No, it is not possible. They have different operating pressures, different oils and different electrical requirements. Replacement is only possible with a similar type of refrigerant.
Where can I find the electrical connection diagram for my Indesit?
The diagram is usually located on the back wall of the refrigerator, on the inside of the door or in the technical data sheet. You can also find a wiring diagram by model on the Internet by entering the full model code (for example, Indesit C 138 G).