Dismantling the compressor is one of the most difficult and important operations when repairing household appliances. Refrigeration unit is a sealed system under high pressure, which requires special care and strict adherence to safety precautions from the technician. Any carelessness can lead not only to the breakdown of expensive equipment, but also to serious injuries.
Before taking active steps, you need to clearly understand what type of compressor you are dealing with. In modern models, piston or inverter engines are most often found, each of which has its own design features. Proper preparation of the workplace and the availability of specialized tools are the key to successful completion of the procedure.
It is important to immediately note that independent disassembly of the compressor housing without special equipment for repressing freon is impossible and dangerous. In this article we will look at the process of dismantling the unit from the refrigeration cabinet, its disconnection from the electrical network and pipelines, as well as preparation for further disposal or replacement.
Necessary tools and precautions
Working with refrigeration equipment requires the presence of a certain set of tools, without which it will not be possible to complete the task efficiently. A basic kit includes pliers, a set of open-end wrenches, side cutters and, ideally, a pipe cutter for copper pipes. Using a hacksaw for metal is acceptable, but requires extreme care so that chips do not get inside the system.
Particular attention should be paid to personal protective equipment. If the pipeline is accidentally damaged, a sudden release of gas may occur, which can cause frostbite on exposed skin. Therefore safety glasses thick work gloves are mandatory elements of the master’s equipment.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical network. Having even one of the wires energized can lead to electric shock, since in some circuits the grounding may be broken.
It is also worth preparing a container to collect oil that may leak from the compressor after cutting the tubes. Despite the fact that the amount of oil is usually small, it is technical and requires proper disposal and not drainage.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
Access to the compressor compartment
The first stage of work is to ensure free access to the back of the refrigerator. The unit is usually located in a lower niche, covered with a metal or plastic casing. To remove the protection, it is often enough to unscrew a few screws or simply straighten the fixing tabs, if the design allows it.
After removing the casing, you will see the compressoritself, the capacitor grid and the start-up relay. Visually inspect the condition of the wires and tubes. The presence of traces of corrosion, oily smudges or melted insulation may indicate the cause of the breakdown that you are trying to diagnose.
If access to the tubes is difficult due to the dense arrangement of elements, do not try to use force. Copper connections are easily deformed, and their damage complicates further work. It is better to carefully bend adjacent elements or temporarily dismantle interfering parts, first remembering their location.
Disconnecting the electrical part
The electrical circuit for connecting the compressor is relatively simple, but requires care. A starting and protective relay is installed on the motor housing, which snaps onto three contacts. To disconnect, you must carefully remove the plastic relay box by pulling it in the direction opposite to the compressor.
Under the box you will see three contacts going from the relay to the compressor terminals. They need to be disconnected. In most cases, the terminals are simply removed by hand or using pliers. The main thing is not to damage the terminals themselves on the motor housing, as they can break off.
- 🔌 Starting capacitor —responsible for starting the engine, often integrated into a relay.
- ⚡ Protective relay—turns off the power in case of current overload.
- 🔋 Terminal block - the connection point for the 220V power wires.
After disconnecting the terminals, the wires should be taken to the side and secured so that they do not interfere with further manipulations with the tubes. If the wires have insulation damage, they must be insulated before testing or disposing of the unit.
Dismantling of copper pipelines
The most crucial moment is disconnecting the copper pipes connecting the compressor to the evaporator and condenser. There may be residual pressure in the system, so all actions must be performed smoothly. There are two main methods of disconnection: biting with side cutters and sawing.
Using side cutters or wire cutters is the fastest method. It is necessary to cut the tube as close to the compressor housing as possible, but without damaging the housing itself. At the same time, a characteristic hissing sound of freon escaping is heard - this is normal, the system is releasing pressure.
⚠️ Attention: The escaping gas may carry drops of oil with it. Keep your face away from the cutting area and ensure the room is well ventilated, as refrigerant displaces oxygen.
If you plan to reuse the pipes or are afraid of chips getting inside, it is better to use a pipe cutter. This tool makes an even cut without deforming the metal. After cutting both tubes (discharge and suction), the compressor becomes completely independent from the rest of the system.
In some models, the tubes can be welded or soldered using complex connections. In such cases, it may be necessary to use an open flame (burner) to heat the soldering area. However, for normal dismantling in order to replace the mechanical force, wire cutters are usually sufficient.
What to do if the tube bursts far from the body?
If the tube breaks off at a considerable distance from the body, and you need to empty the system as much as possible, you can carefully bend the remaining stub with pliers. However, be careful, copper becomes brittle when frequently bent and can burst at the very base.
Removing the compressor from the frame
After the electrics and pipes are disconnected, the compressor is still attached to the metal frame of the refrigerator. Fastening is carried out using four bolts, which are fitted with rubber shock-absorbing bushings. These bushings dampen vibrations, so when dismantling them you need to try not to damage them if you plan to use them again.
To remove it, you need to unscrew the nuts on the studs passing through the compressor legs. Often the metal is covered in rust, so a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40) may be necessary. Give the lubricant time to act before applying force with the wrench.
The compressor weighs from 10 to 15 kilograms, so you need to remove it from the niche with an assistant or be careful not to drop the unit on your feet. You cannot jerk the engine sharply, since there are suspension springs inside that can jump out of their places with a strong jerk.
| Fixing element | Function | Removal tool |
|---|---|---|
| Rubber bushings | Vibration isolation | Pliers / Hands |
| M8/M10 studs | Fixing the body | Open-end wrench 10-13 mm |
| Metal frame | Load-bearing base | Not removable |
After removing the nuts, the compressor is carefully lifted up to remove the studs from the bushing holes. If the bushings remain on the frame, they will need to be removed separately, carefully pulling them out of the metal cups.
Disassembling the compressor housing (Theoretical part)
Many users are interested in whether it is possible to disassemble the sealed body compressor for internal repairs. This is theoretically possible, but in practice it requires industrial equipment. The body consists of two stamped hemispheres, factory-welded in a circle.
To open it, you need to cut off the weld with a grinder or a hacksaw. This action is irreversible. Inside you will find an electric motor, a cylinder-piston group and a valve assembly, all filled with oil. However, it is almost impossible to put it back together while maintaining tightness at home.
- 🛠️ Valve group —often fails and must be replaced.
- 🌀 Piston and cylinder—if scuffed, require boring or replacement.
- 🧲 Stator windings burn out during a short circuit.
The feasibility of such disassembly is extremely low. The cost of a new compressor is often comparable to the cost of labor to restore the old one, and the reliability of the repaired unit will be significantly lower than the factory one. Therefore, this method is used only for educational purposes or when new spare parts are completely unavailable.
⚠️ Attention: By opening the housing, you release the remaining refrigerant into the atmosphere. In addition, there may be chemically active oil inside that requires special disposal. Do not perform these actions in residential premises.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to check the compressor with a multimeter after removal?
Yes, this even needs to be done before recycling or installing a new one. Check the windings for breaks or short circuits. The resistance between the contacts should be in the range of 10-30 Ohms, and the resistance between the contact and the body should be infinite.
What to do with the freon residues in the tubes?
If dismantled correctly, the main gas comes out when the first tube is cut. Residues may come out slowly over several minutes. Make sure that the room is well ventilated, since freon is heavier than air and can accumulate in the lower part of the room.
Do you need to seal the tubes after removing the compressor?
If you are recycling the refrigerator or storing it, it is better to plug the tubes so that moisture and dust do not get inside. To do this, the ends of the tubes are bent with pliers and sealed with a torch or simply clamped tightly.
Why does the compressor get very hot during operation?
Heating to 90-110 degrees for the upper part of the body is the norm for many models. However, if the lower part heats up or the temperature exceeds 120 degrees, this may indicate a malfunction of the valves, a freon leak, or problems with ventilation.