A sudden stop in the operation of a refrigeration unit often takes you by surprise, especially when there are perishable products in the chamber. In most cases, the cause of the malfunction is the failure of the starting relay, which is responsible for starting the compressor engine. If your Atlant refrigerator stops freezing, but at the same time makes characteristic clicks or a buzzing sound that ends abruptly, the problem with a high degree of probability lies in this particular unit.
Independent diagnostics and replacement of this element allows you to save a significant amount on calling a technician, since the procedure does not require specialized expensive equipment. However, in order not to damage other systems of the unit, it is necessary to clearly understand the sequence of actions and follow safety precautions. Removing the relay This is the first step to restoring the functionality of your equipment, and it requires care.
Before you begin disassembling, make sure that you have prepared the workplace and the necessary tools. Incorrect actions can lead to damage to the refrigeration circuit pipes or electrical parts, which will make repairs economically impractical. In this article we will analyze in detail the process of removing and checking the relay on various models of Belarusian-made equipment.
Diagnostics of a faulty starting relay
Before disassembling the unit, you need to make sure that the problem lies in the starting mechanism, and not in the compressor or thermostat itself. Malfunction symptoms often similar, so it is important to conduct an initial check. If the motor hums for a few seconds, and then there is a click and silence, this is a classic sign that the starting winding is not receiving the impulse to start or that the piston mechanism is jammed.
Visual inspection can also provide a lot of information. If traces of soot, melted plastic, or a burning smell are visible on the relay body, then the element definitely requires replacement. In some cases, there may be a broken flask of mercury inside the case (in older models), which requires special care when disposing of it.
- 🔊 Characteristic click: Sounds every few minutes, after which the compressor goes silent.
- ❄️ Lack of cold: The temperature in the chambers rises to room temperature, despite the operating (or attempting to work) motor.
- ⚡ Knocking out plugs: When you try to start, a short circuit occurs and the circuit breaker in the electrical panel is triggered.
⚠️ Attention: If after the click the compressor continues to hum, but does not start for more than 10-15 seconds, immediately unplug the refrigerator. Long-term operation in this mode can lead to burnout of the motor windings, which will make repairs unprofitable.
For accurate diagnostics, a multimeter is often used, checking the resistance of the windings and the integrity of the relay contacts. If the device shows an open circuit where there should be a connection, or the resistance approaches infinity, then the part is faulty. It is also worth checking whether the contacts inside the mechanism are stuck, which often happens with frequent power surges in the network.
Necessary tools and preparation for work
High-quality preparation of the workplace and the availability of the right tools are the key to successful repairs. You don't need a complex professional kit; a basic DIY kit is enough. The main thing is that the tools are in good working order and allow you to perform delicate manipulations without the risk of slipping.
First of all, ensure that the back of the refrigerator is well lit. Often it is poor visibility that leads to accidental damage to copper tubes or wire insulation. It is also recommended to cover the floor with thick cardboard or fabric so as not to scratch the floor covering and not to lose small parts that may fall.
- 🔧 Screwdrivers: Flat and Phillips (PH1, PH2) for removing protective covers and clamps.
- 🔌 Pliers: Preferably with thin jaws for gripping wires and terminals.
- 🧤 Protective gloves: Fabric or rubber, so as not to cut yourself on sharp metal edges or get dirty with oil.
Pay special attention to safety. Although there is no 220 volt voltage when the cord is unplugged, a residual charge may remain in the capacitors. In addition, the compressor heats up during operation, so if the refrigerator has just been running, let it cool for at least 30-40 minutes before starting work.
☑️ Preparation for repair
If you don’t have a multimeter in your arsenal, it is advisable to find or borrow one, since a visual check does not always give a 100% guarantee result. Modern digital models are inexpensive, but they greatly simplify troubleshooting in electrical circuits of household appliances.
Removing the compressor protective casing
Access to the start relay in refrigerators Atlant is covered by a protective plastic casing that covers the compressor and capacitor. This element protects internal components from dust, moisture and mechanical damage, and also prevents accidental contact with hot surfaces.
The process of removing the casing is usually not difficult, but requires care. Depending on the specific refrigerator model, fastening can be done using screws or latches. In older models, a combined version is often used, where the lower part is held on by screws and the upper part by clips.
First, inspect the perimeter of the casing. Find all the mounting points and carefully remove the screws, putting them in a separate container so as not to lose them. If there are no screws, look for plastic latches on the sides. They need to be carefully pressed out with a flat screwdriver, being careful not to use excessive force, as the plastic becomes brittle over time.
| Mounting type | Location | Tool | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Screw | Bottom part, back wall | Phillips screwdriver | Screws may be covered with rust |
| Latch | All around casing | Flat screwdriver | Requires careful pressing |
| Clamps | Upper part (rarely) | Pliers | You need to loosen it without completely removing it |
After removing the fastening elements, the casing must be carefully moved down or to the side, freeing access to the compressor. Do not pull sharply, as fan or lighting wires (in some models) may be connected to the inside of the cover, which can be accidentally damaged.
⚠️ Attention: The plastic of the protective casing becomes brittle after use. Do not squeeze it too hard with your hands and avoid hitting it with a tool, otherwise it may crack and you will have to look for a replacement or make the mount yourself.
Removing the start relay: step-by-step algorithm
Once access is open, you will see a black cylindrical or box-shaped element placed on the compressor rod. This is the start relay. In refrigerators Atlant relays of the RT or RSO series are most often used, which have their own design features for fastening.
The first step is to disconnect the electrical wires. They fit to the relay through a block or separate terminals. Remember or take a photo of the connection diagram so that you don’t mix up the contacts during assembly. Usually the wires are fixed with spring clips or screws.
The relay itself is held on three contacts of the compressor and, possibly, an additional fastener. On many Atlant models, the relay is fixed with a metal strip or plastic bracket, which is screwed to the compressor housing. This bracket must be removed by unscrewing one or two screws.
Nuances of fastening relays of different series
In Atlant refrigerators with one compressor, the relay is often simply put on the contacts and fixed with a bracket. Dual-compressor models may use an additional insulating gasket, which must not be lost during removal.
To remove the relay from the compressor rod, take it by the body and gently rock it from side to side and pull it towards you. Sudden jerks should not be made so as not to damage the output contacts of the motor. If the relay is sitting tightly, you can slightly heat it with a hairdryer (without overheating!), since the plastic could be deformed from the temperature.
- 📸 Take a photo: Take a close-up of the wire connections before disconnecting.
- 🔌 Disconnect the block: Carefully remove the connector from the relay contacts.
- 🔩 Remove the lock: Unscrew the fastening bar or bracket holding the relay.
- 🤲 Remove the relay: Smoothly pull the part off the contact pins of the compressor.
After dismantling, inspect the seat on the compressor. There should be no oxides, soot or traces of moisture. If the motor contacts are blackened, they must be carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper or a file before installing a new relay.
Checking and replacing the element
The removed relay must be checked for functionality. The easiest way is visual inspection and “shaking”. If it rattles inside like a rattle, it means that the starting coil or core is broken, and the relay must definitely be replaced. This is typical for electromagnetic relays.
For more accurate diagnostics, use a multimeter in dial mode. Check the resistance between the contacts. In a warm state, the contacts should be open (infinite resistance), and when voltage is applied (in test mode), they should be closed. The thermal protection relay is also checked: it should ring short when cold.
If the check shows a malfunction, go to the store for a new part. It is important to buy a relay with exactly the same markings. For refrigerators Atlant RTK, RT, RSO, R-3 relays are suitable, but they are not always interchangeable due to different starting currents and housing geometry.
Installation of a new relay is carried out in the reverse order of removal. Push the part onto the compressor contacts until it stops, making sure that it fits snugly and evenly. Then secure the fixing bracket and connect the electrical block. Check the reliability of all connections by lightly tugging the wires.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to install the relay upside down or in the wrong position if there is an arrow or the inscription UP on the body. Violation of the orientation will lead to incorrect operation of the thermal release and rapid failure of the new element.
Assembling and testing the refrigerator
After installing the new relay, it is necessary to return the protective casing to its place. Make sure that the wires are not caught under fasteners or touching hot parts of the compressor. Secure the casing with screws or snap the clips until you hear a characteristic click.
Before turning on the refrigerator, let it stand in an upright position for at least 2-3 hours (especially if it was tilted strongly during repairs). This is necessary so that the oil that gets into the refrigerant circuit flows back into the compressor crankcase.
Plug in the unit and listen. The launch should happen almost immediately, without long delays and repeated clicks. The compressor should operate smoothly, without vibration or extraneous hum. After 10-15 minutes, check whether the condenser (the grill at the back or the side walls) has started to heat up.
If everything went well, you can load the products. However, on the first day it is better not to fully load the chamber to make sure that the system is stable and the set temperature is achieved. Regularly check the operation of the refrigerator during the first week after repair.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to repair an old relay rather than changing it?
In most cases, repairing a relay is impractical. Inside there is a sealed capsule or a complex system of contacts that burn. An attempt to clean the contacts or disassemble the housing often leads to a violation of the calibration of the thermal release, which can cause a fire or breakdown of the compressor in the near future.
Why does a new relay burn out after a few days?
There may be several reasons: incorrectly selected relay power, a malfunction of the compressor itself (turn-to-turn short circuit), voltage problems online or incorrect installation (orientation is incorrect). It is also worth checking the capacitor if it is in the circuit.
What is the difference between the RTK and RSO relays for Atlant?
The main difference is in the design of the trigger mechanism. RTK - electromagnetic, noisier and older. RSO - posistor, they work quieter and more reliably. They may be incompatible in terms of fitment dimensions and electrical characteristics, so accurate marking is important.
Is it necessary to evacuate the system after replacing the relay?
No, when replacing only the start relay, the tightness of the freon circuit is not broken. The refrigerant remains inside the system, so calling a technician with a vacuum pump and a filling station is not required.