Diagnostics of refrigeration equipment malfunctions often leads to the need to replace the main unit - compressor. When the unit stops freezing or makes uncharacteristic sounds, many owners think about repairing it themselves. However, the dismantling procedure requires not only physical effort, but also strict adherence to safety precautions.
In this article we will look in detail at how to remove the motor from the refrigerator without damaging the pipelines and electrical wiring. You will learn about the necessary tools, the sequence of actions and hidden nuances that are silent in service centers.
Preparation of the workplace and tools
Before starting any work, you must clear access to the back wall of the refrigerator. The unit should be moved away from the wall at a distance of at least a meter, ensuring free air circulation. Refrigerantlocated in the system can be dangerous if ignited, so exclude the presence of open sources of fire near the work site.
To perform dismantling efficiently, you will need a specific set of tools. Using unsuitable tools may damage the copper tubes or strip the threads of the fastening bolts.
- 🛠️ Set of open-end wrenches and sockets (sizes 8, 10, 12 mm)
- 🔧 Flat-head and Phillips-head screwdrivers
- 🔨 Pliers and side cutters
- 🧤 Dielectric gloves
Pay special attention to lighting. The rear niche of the compressor compartment is often darkened, making it difficult to visually inspect the connections. Using a headlamp will greatly simplify the process.
De-energizing and initial access
The first and most important step is to completely disconnect the device from the electrical network. Don't rely solely on the switch in the outlet - it's better to pull the plug from the socket. This ensures that there is no voltage on the contacts of the start relay and thermostat.
Remove the protective rear cover covering the compressor compartment. It is usually secured with four screws or latches. After dismantling the cover, you will have a view of the discharge unit assembly with the capacitor.
⚠️ Attention: If you smell burnt insulation or see melted wires, do not touch the metal parts with your bare hands. First, make sure that there is no voltage on the case using an indicator screwdriver.
Let the refrigerator stand in the off state for at least 30 minutes. During this time, the pressure in the system will partially equalize, and the capacitors in the electrical circuit will have time to discharge.
Disconnecting the electrical part
The next stage is dismantling the electrical wiring. The starting relay box is located on the motor housing. Carefully remove it by snapping the latches or unscrewing the screws. Inside you will see contacts going to the motor windings.
Take a photo of the connection diagram before disconnecting the wires. This will help avoid mistakes when installing a new compressor. The color marking of the wires may differ between different manufacturers, such as Indesit, Atlant or Beko.
- 📸 Take a photo of the location of the wires
- 🔌 Disconnect the grounding terminals
- 🔋 Remove the starting and protective relay
Check the integrity of the wires. If the insulation is cracked, it must be repaired before connecting new equipment. Use heat-shrink tubing or high-quality electrical tape.
Why do you need a starting relay?
A starting relay is necessary for short-term connection of the starting winding of the engine at the moment of start. It creates rotor torque. Without it, the compressor will hum, but will not start, which can lead to burnout of the windings.
Working with copper pipeline
The most crucial moment is disconnecting the copper pipes from the compressor. The suction and discharge lines can be connected by soldering or crimping. At home, you most often need to cut pipes.
Use a pipe cutter or sharpened side cutters. You should cut at a distance of 10-15 cm from the motor housing in order to leave a margin for future soldering. A sharp bend in copper is unacceptable - this will block the passage of freon.
⚠️ Attention: When biting the tubes, a hissing may be heard. This leaves residual freon and oil. Avoid inhaling vapors, as they displace oxygen and may contain oil breakdown products.
If the tubes are welded to the body, they must be carefully sawed off with a hacksaw, being careful not to damage the fittings. Movements should be light, without strong pressure on the body.
Removing fastening elements
The compressor is secured to the refrigerator frame, usually with four bolts or nuts. They can be located below or on the side of the engine feet. Access to them is often difficult due to the capacitor (grid at the back).
In some models, for example, old ZIL or Minsk, it may be necessary to remove the entire frame along with the motor. In modern units Samsung or LG fasteners are usually accessible after removing the protective casing.
If the bolts are rusty, treat them with penetrating lubricant (WD-40 or analogue) and leave for 15 minutes. Sharp jerks with a wrench can lead to breakage of the fasteners, which will complicate installation.
Removing the old unit
After disconnecting all communications, the motor is ready for removal. The compressor weighs between 8 and 12 kg, so be careful not to damage your back or floor.
Carefully lift the unit, checking the position of the tubes. They shouldn't get caught on anything. Remove the motor from the niche and place it on a prepared, flat surface.
Visually inspect the installation site. Remove any remnants of the old vibration damper or rubber gaskets. The surface must be clean and dry.
☑️ Dismantling checklist
Comparison of compressor characteristics
When selecting a new engine, it is important to take into account not only the dimensions, but also the technical parameters. Installing an unsuitable motor will lead to incorrect operation of the refrigerator or rapid failure of the new part.
Below is a table for comparing the main parameters of standard household compressors.
| Parameter | Old compressor | New analog | Permissible deviation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Power (hp) | 1/5 - 1/4 | 1/5 - 1/4 | ±10% |
| Refrigerant type | R134a / R600a | R134a / R600a | 0% (strictly) |
| Pipe diameter (mm) | 6.35 / 4.75 | 6.35 / 4.75 | ±0.1 mm |
| Starting torque | L (low) | L / H | Mandatory match |
Pay attention to the type refrigerant. Replacing a compressor from R134a to R600a without completely replacing the system and oil is strictly prohibited, as this will lead to an explosive situation and destruction of the seals.
⚠️ Attention: Manufacturers often change markings and part numbers. The model indicated on the nameplate may be discontinued. Always check the electrical parameters and overall dimensions with the compatibility catalog.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to remove a compressor without bleeding freon?
Technically, you can bite the pipes, but this violates environmental standards. In domestic conditions, freon simply escapes into the atmosphere. However, if high pressure remains in the system, the oil can be thrown out in a powerful jet. It is recommended to have a rag on hand.
Do you need to solder the tubes immediately after removal?
Yes, if you do not plan to install a new motor at that very moment. The open tubes of the old and new compressor must be plugged to prevent moisture and dust from getting inside, which will damage the system.
How much does a refrigerator compressor weigh?
The weight of a standard single-phase compressor for a household refrigerator varies from 8 to 11 kilograms. Industrial or dual-motor units can weigh up to 15 kg.
Why does a new motor hum after installation?
The hum may occur due to vibration of the housing against the metal frame. Check the condition of the rubber vibration dampers. Also, the reason may be incorrect installation of the start relay or airing of the system.