Removing the compressor is one of the most difficult procedures in the process of restoring the functionality of the refrigeration unit. Often, owners of household appliances are faced with a situation where the motor hums but does not start, or the winding has broken. In such cases, finding an answer to the question of how to remove the engine from a video refrigerator becomes a priority, since a visual example greatly simplifies the understanding of the process.
Before taking active steps, you must clearly understand that the compressor is the heart of the refrigerator part of a complex sealed system. Improper dismantling operation may result in damaged copper tubes, freon leakage, or even personal injury. That is why we have prepared a detailed guide that will help you safely remove the motor-compressor for further diagnostics or replacement.
It is important to understand that the procedure may differ depending on the model of your unit, be it Atlant, Stinol or a foreign brand. However, the basic principles remain the same: safety, consistency and using the right tool. In this article we will analyze each stage, paying special attention to the nuances that beginners often miss.
Required tools and safety measures
Any work with electrical appliances requires strict adherence to electrical safety rules. The first and most important step is to completely disconnect the device from the power supply. Never try disassemble the equipment while the power cord is connected to the outlet, even if you just plan to inspect the back wall.
For successful dismantling, you will need a specific set of tools, which should be on hand before starting work. Lack of the required item may delay the process or lead to damage to fasteners. The basis of the set is:
- 🔧 A set of screwdrivers (phillips and flathead of different sizes)
- 🔨 Pliers and pliers with insulated handles
- 🔩 An adjustable wrench or a set of open-end wrenches
- 🧤 Protective gloves (preferably rubberized)
- 🪣 Container for collecting residual oil
⚠️ Attention: Compressor oil, which can leak during dismantling, is toxic and is poorly washed off with water. Use gloves and old clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty or thrown away.
It is also worth preparing a rag for wiping surfaces and, possibly, a flashlight to illuminate hard-to-reach places in the niche of the unit. If you plan to solder a new compressor, then prepare the torch and solder in advance, although this is already a stage of subsequent repairs.
Preparing the refrigeration unit for dismantling
The preparatory stage is critical for food preservation and ease of operation. If there are still products in the chamber, they must be urgently removed and transferred to another cold place. Defrosting is an essential step that cannot be ignored.
Move the refrigerator away from the wall, allowing easy access to the back from all sides. It is advisable to have space to move around the unit. Remove all foreign objects, rugs and drawers that may prevent you from bending over or placing tools on the floor.
The defrosting procedure follows. Even if your refrigerator is equipped with a No Frostsystem, condensation or ice may remain inside in hard-to-reach places. Leave the doors open for at least several hours, or better yet for a day, so that the moisture completely evaporates.
☑️ Preparation checklist
After defrosting, thoroughly wipe the inner chamber with a dry cloth. This will prevent excess moisture from entering the electrical contacts during further disassembly. Now you can proceed to removing the protective panels.
Access to the motor-compressor: removing the casing
The compressor is usually located in the lower rear part of the refrigerator and is covered with a metal or plastic casing. This element protects the motor from dust, moisture and accidental mechanical damage, and also reduces noise levels.
Screws or special latches are most often used to remove the casing. Brand models Indesit i Ariston often use screws for a Phillips screwdriver, while some modern models Bosch may use plastic fasteners that require careful handling.
Unscrew all visible fasteners. If the screws become stuck or rusty, don't apply excessive force right away—use a penetrating lubricant (like WD-40), wait a few minutes, and try again. A sharp force can strip the threads or break the bolt head.
After removing the casing, you will have a view of the compressor, the capacitor grille (if it is located at the back) and the start-up relay. Carefully inspect the space: sometimes access is blocked by additional plastic clamps or wires, which also need to be carefully moved to the side.
Disconnecting electrical circuits and relays
The next stage is working with the electrics. A start-protection relay and a thermostat are located on the compressor housing. It is through these elements that voltage is supplied to the motor windings. Before disconnecting, it is strongly recommended to take a photo of the connection diagram.
Remove the relay by simply pulling it off the compressor contact pins. It may hold quite tightly, so gently rock it from side to side. Be careful: there are fragile contacts and springs inside the relay.
Disconnect the wires going to the relay and directly to the compressor. In some models, the wires may be twisted and insulated with electrical tape, while in others, plastic connectors are used. If you see a twist, carefully unwind the electrical tape without damaging the insulation of the wires.
| Connection type | Description | Tool |
|---|---|---|
| Plastic connector | Press the latch and connector pulled out | Tweezers or fingers |
| Twist + electrical tape | Wires twisted together and wrapped | Knife, side cutters |
| Terminal block | The wires are clamped with screws | Screwdriver |
After disconnecting all the wires, check whether there are any connected ground contacts left on the motor body. Only after making sure that the electrical part is completely disconnected can you proceed to working with copper pipes.
Dismantling copper pipelines
This is the most crucial moment, requiring maximum care. The compressor is connected to the system by two pipes: discharge (hot gas comes out) and suction (cold gas/liquid enters). The third, often sealed, is the process pipe (fitting) for refilling with freon.
To remove the engine, you need to cut these tubes. This should be done at a distance of 10-15 cm from the compressor housing, so as not to damage the system itself and leave a margin for future soldering. Use a pipe cutter or metal cutter, but make sure that no copper shavings get inside the tubes.
⚠️ Attention: When cutting the tubes, residual freon pressure may escape from the system and oil may splash out. Keep a rag ready and ensure the room is ventilated, as refrigerant vapors can be harmful if inhaled in high concentrations.
If you plan to use the old compressor as a vacuum pump or supercharger, then plug the holes in the tubes of the motor itself to prevent dust and moisture from getting there. To do this, you can use special caps or simply bend and solder the ends.
What to do with leftover freon?
Freon is lighter than air and quickly evaporates in a well-ventilated area. However, it is strictly forbidden to burn it or try to collect it in a bottle - this can lead to an explosion or a chemical reaction. Just let it escape into the atmosphere with the windows open.
After cutting the tubes, the compressor is actually freed from connections with the rest of the refrigerator system, and it can be removed from the niche. However, it is still attached to the frame.
Removing the compressor from the frame and removing it
The motor-compressor is attached to the metal frame of the refrigerator, usually with four rubber shock absorbers or bolts. Rubber feet dampen vibrations, so the refrigerator does not rattle when the engine is running.
Lift the compressor to release the lower pins from the rubber bushings. Sometimes this requires effort, as the rubber “hardens” or deforms over time. Act smoothly so as not to break the copper tubes, which may stick out in different directions.
The compressor weighs from 10 to 15 kg, so it is better to remove it with an assistant or being careful not to drop the unit on your feet. Pull out the motor through the top or side, depending on the design of your refrigerator model.
Now that the motor has been removed, you can troubleshoot it. Check the winding resistance with a multimeter and make sure there is no mechanical damage to the housing. If the motor is working, but did not work due to the relay, replace the starting unit.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to remove the compressor without bleeding the freon?
Technically, you can remove the housing, but if you cut the tubes, the freon will still come out. It is impossible to completely hermetically remove the compressor, preserving the freon in the system, without special equipment for pumping out the refrigerant.
Why does the new compressor hum after installation?
There may be several reasons: incorrect installation (vibration is transmitted to the housing), problems with the electrical network, a malfunction of the starting relay, or a defect in the new motor itself. It is also possible that oil gets into the circuit.
Does the system need to be flushed when replacing a compressor?
Yes, if the old compressor burned out, acid and combustion products could remain in the system. Flushing with nitrogen and using a filter drier are mandatory, otherwise the new motor will quickly fail.
Which tool is best suited for cutting pipes?
The ideal option is a special pipe cutter that gives an even cut without burrs. If you don’t have one, you can use high-quality side cutters, but then you need to carefully clean the cut area with a file.