Dismantling The compressor is one of the most difficult and important stages in the repair of household refrigeration equipment. Refrigeration unit is the heart of the system, and any mistake when removing it can lead to damage to the copper lines or a violation of the tightness of the circuit. Owners often wonder how to remove the motor from the refrigerator when they hear extraneous knocking, vibration, or when the compressor stops starting.
The process requires not only physical strength, but also the presence of a specific tool, such as a pipe cutter and torch, or a cutter for copper pipes. Modern models may have a hidden motor mounting, which complicates access to the mounts. It is important to understand that after removing the old unit, you won’t be able to simply install it back - you will need to call a technician to seal the system and fill it with freon.
In this article we will analyze in detail all the stages of preparation, disconnecting the electrical system and mechanical dismantling of the unit. Safety when working with electrical appliances and copper high pressure tubes come first. You will learn how to properly prepare the workplace and what nuances should be taken into account when working with different types of fasteners.
Preparation of the workplace and the necessary tools
Before starting any work, it is necessary to provide a safe and convenient space for disassembly. Refrigerator should be moved away from the wall, allowing access from all sides, including the rear where the engine compartment is located. It is better to cover the floor in the work area with thick fabric or cardboard so that small parts, nuts or drops of oil do not get lost and spoil the coating.
For successful dismantling, you will need a set of tools, which should be on hand in advance. The absence of the necessary wrench or screwdriver can delay the process and lead to thread breakage or breakage of plastic elements.
- 🔧 A set of wrenches (open-end and ring-end) or heads of sizes 8, 10, 12 mm.
- 🔪 A sharp knife or side cutters for cutting copper pipes (if not a torch is used).
- 🔦 A powerful flashlight for illuminating darkened areas of the engine compartment.
- 🧤 Thick work gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal edges.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, make sure that the refrigerator is completely defrosted. Residual moisture in the tray or inside the system when the unit is tilted while removing the motor can get onto the electrical contacts, which will cause a short circuit.
It is also recommended to prepare a container to collect residual compressor oil, which may leak when cutting the tubes. Mineral oilsused in older models, are aggressive to some types of plastic and rubber, so immediately prepare rags for cleaning.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
Disconnecting the power supply and accessing the compressor
The first and most important step is to completely de-energize the device. Electric current poses a mortal danger, so simply turning off the button on the case is not enough - you must remove the plug from the socket. In some cases, if the outlet is hidden behind furniture, you may need to temporarily move the headset away or use an extension cord for safe access.
After turning off the power, remove the protective rear cover of the engine compartment. It is usually secured with four bolts around the perimeter or secured with latches. Be careful: during operation, a layer of dust and lint may have settled on the cover and around the motor, which may fly away when the cover is removed.
Visually inspect the inside of the compartment. You will see a black cylindrical or pear-shaped tank - this is compressor. Electrical wires and two copper tubes are connected to it. Before touching the fasteners, it is necessary to disconnect the electrical part.
- ⚡ Find the start-up relay placed on the contact group of the compressor.
- 🔌 Carefully remove the terminal block or connector going to relay.
- 📸 Take a photo of the wire connection diagram so that when installing a new motor you do not mix up the contacts.
Removing the relay usually does not require tools; it is simply pulled together by hand. However, in older models Atlant refrigerators or Zil the connectors may be hard and oxidized. In this case, you can slightly rock the connector from side to side, but do not pull sharply on the wires themselves, so as not to break them at the base.
Disconnecting the copper refrigerant lines
This is the most critical stage and requires the utmost care. The copper tubes leaving the compressor are under pressure and contain residual refrigerant. Sealing the system breaks down at this very moment. There are two ways to disconnect: cutting the tubes and unsoldering them.
At home, without a gas burner and solder, the cutting method is most often used. For this, side cutters with hardened jaws or a special pipe cutter are used. It is important to cut the tube at a distance of 10-15 cm from the point of entry into the compressor in order to leave a margin for possible future soldering.
Procedure:1. Cut through the discharge tube (hot, thin).
2. Bite the suction tube (cold, thick).
3. Wait for the residual gas to escape (hissing).
At the moment of depressurization, a stream of gas with a characteristic oil smell may escape from the tubes. This is normal, but the room must be well ventilated. Freon heavier than air and can displace oxygen in the lower part of the room, so do not lean over the cut point.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to use open fire (candles, lighters) near the cut point of the tubes until the gas has completely evaporated. Although modern refrigerants are less flammable than older freons, the risk of ignition of oil vapors remains high.
After cutting the tubes, oil may begin to leak from the compressor. Place the prepared container. Compressor oil hygroscopic, that is, it actively absorbs moisture from the air, so you cannot keep the ends of the tubes of a new or removed motor open for a long time.
Why can’t you just unscrew the tubes?
In the factory, copper tubes do not have threaded connections at the compressor itself. They are welded (soldered) directly into the steel motor housing. An attempt to saw off or break them off without heating will lead to deformation of the fittings and the impossibility of further sealing the system.
Removing fasteners and shock absorbers
After the electrics and tubes are disconnected, it is the turn of mechanical fastening. The compressor is fixed to the refrigerator frame using bolts and special shock-absorbing bushings. These elements dampen vibration, therefore shock absorbers they are often made of rubber and can dry out or crack over time.
The mounting bolts can be located on top of the compressor feet or pass through them from below. Some models, for example, in Indesit refrigerators or Ariston, use long studs that run through the entire frame of the engine compartment. To unscrew them, you may need a wrench with a long head.
The process of removing fasteners:
- Loosen all the bolts one by one, without unscrewing them completely at once.
- When the bolts move freely threads, unscrew them completely.
- If nuts with spring washers are used, make sure that they do not fall deep into the engine compartment.
- Carefully lift the compressor, freeing the lower bushings from their seats on the frame.
A situation often arises when rubber bushings “stick” to the metal or crack and remain on the studs. In this case, they need to be carefully removed with pliers. Rubber dampers is a consumable item, and when installing a new compressor, it is better to replace old ones, even if they look intact.
| Mounting type | Location | Tool | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bolt (top) | On top of the motor feet | Wrench 10-12 mm | Convenient access, rarely rusts |
| Studs (through) | Through the frame from below | Long head | Difficult to access, requires skill |
| Threaded bushings | Welded into the frame | A key of the appropriate size | Risk of stripping threads due to rust |
| Plastic clips | On modern models | Flat-head screwdriver | Brittle, require care |
Removing the compressor and recycling
The final stage is the physical removal of the unit from the niche. Compressor weight varies from 10 to 20 kg, which is quite a lot for working with one hand, especially considering the inconvenient tilt angle. When lifting, try not to twist the motor so as not to touch or bend the remaining parts of the pipelines on the back wall of the refrigerator.
Remove the motor smoothly, controlling the position of the scrap pipes. The sharp edges of the copper can easily cut your skin or scratch the inside of the camera if you bring the motor in through the top (although it is usually removed from the rear). After removal, inspect the seat on the frame of the refrigerator.
There should be no pieces of rubber, old sealant or debris left there. The surface should be wiped with a dry cloth. If you plan to install a new motor, check the condition of the mounting holes for corrosion.
- 🗑️ The removed compressor should not be thrown into a regular trash container.
- ♻️ It contains technical oil and possible refrigerant residues.
- 🏭 Hand over the equipment to special collection points for scrap metal or recycling of household appliances.
Many service centers accept old units as recycling when purchasing new spare parts. Ferrous metals are valued when returned, but the main motive is environmental safety. Do not try to open the compressor housing with a grinder at home - pressure may remain inside.
Common mistakes when removing the engine
Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes that complicate further repairs or make it impossible. One of the most common is damage to the process fitting for refilling freon. It is located on the compressor housing and looks like a short sealed copper tube.
If during dismantling you accidentally bite or severely crumple this fitting, it will be extremely difficult to seal the system after installing a new motor; overcooking will be required. Also, the contact group often breaks if the wires are pulled sharply.
Another mistake is ignoring the condition of the condenser and evaporator tubes suitable for the compressor. If you handle a heavy motor carelessly, you can step on them or hit them with a key, creating a microcrack. Copper is a soft metal, and the deformation may not be noticeable immediately, but will appear during the first start.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to remove the compressor without cutting the tubes by unscrewing the nuts on filter driers if you do not have the skills to work with refrigeration equipment. This is almost guaranteed to lead to depressurization of the entire system and air getting inside.
Remember that removing the compressor is only half the battle. Installing a new one requires evacuation of the system, checking for leaks and accurately charging with a certain type and weight of refrigerant. Self-charging without scales and a pressure gauge station often leads to failure of the new compressor after a short time.
Is it possible to restore the old one compressor?
In 95% of cases, repairing a hermetic compressor is not economically feasible. Its body is welded, the bearings are hidden, and industrial equipment is required to replace them. It’s easier and more reliable to buy a new unit of the same power.
Questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it necessary to bleed off the freon before removing the compressor?
Yes, when cutting the pipes, the remaining freon will come out on its own. There is no need to specifically pierce the system or drain the gas in the room, but good ventilation is required. If freon does not come out when cut, it means that the leak occurred earlier.
Is it possible to remove the compressor without cutting the tubes?
Theoretically, it is possible if you unsolder the tubes with a torch at the very entrance to the condenser and evaporator, leaving long ends. However, this requires professional equipment and skills. The method of biting the tubes closer to the motor is the standard for dismantling.
Why is the compressor not removed, the bolts are spinning?
The threads in the mounting holes of the frame or on the studs are probably broken. In this case, you will have to use additional clamps, washers of larger diameter, or, in extreme cases, weld new fasteners, which requires removing the entire frame from the refrigerator.
Is oil leaking from the compressor dangerous?
Compressor oil is toxic if it enters the body and can cause skin irritation. You need to wear gloves when working with it, and dispose of contaminated rags as hazardous waste, without burning them at home.