Independent refrigeration equipment repair often begins with the need to replace or diagnose the main unit - the motor-compressor. Equipment owners Atlant face this problem when the unit stops freezing or begins to work intermittently. Understanding how to properly dismantle the unit is critical to maintaining the integrity of the system and the safety of the technician.
The process requires care, since motor-compressor it is fixed to a rigid frame and connected to copper tubes by soldering. Errors at this stage can lead to damage to the condenser or evaporator, which will significantly increase the cost of restoration. Video instructions help to visualize complex moments, but a text description of the nuances is indispensable for a deep understanding of the technology.
Before starting work, you must completely de-energize the device. This is a basic electrical safety rule that cannot be ignored under any circumstances. Further actions depend on the refrigerator model, but the general algorithm remains similar for most brand modifications Atlant.
Preparation of the workplace and tools
To successfully perform dismantling, you will need a specialized set of tools. The basic kit includes wrenches (usually open-end 10 and 12 mm), a set of screwdrivers and side cutters. You also cannot do without specific equipment for working with freon if you plan to further refill the system.
Pay special attention lighting to the working area. The back of the refrigerator is often located in dark corners of the kitchen, where small parts of the fasteners are difficult to see. Move the unit to a spacious place or provide a portable lamp.
⚠️ Attention: Working with the refrigeration circuit requires at least minimal experience. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals, since poor-quality soldering of the pipes will lead to a refrigerant leak.
In addition to the main tool, prepare a container for collecting oilsthat may leak from the old compressor. You will also need a rag and a solvent to degrease the surfaces before soldering new connections.
- 🛠️ Open-end wrenches and pliers for dismantling fasteners
- 🔥 Torch for soldering copper pipes (if required)
- 🧤 Protective gloves and goggles for eye safety
- 🔦 Powerful flashlight or portable lamp
Access to the motor-compressor and initial inspection
To gain access to discharge unityou need to turn the refrigerator over or gain access to its bottom. Models Atlant often have a closed casing in the lower zone, which is secured with screws or plastic latches.
Carefully remove the rear metal panel by unscrewing the fastening screws around the perimeter. You will have a view of the condenserfilter-drier and the compressor itself, mounted on the frame. Visually assess the condition of the wiring and the integrity of the copper tubes.
Pay attention to the location starting relay and the thermostat. They can be attached directly to the motor housing or placed in a separate unit. This affects the sequence of disconnecting the electrical contacts.
Electrical isolation and dismantling of the relay
The first stage of mechanical intervention is disconnection power supply. Remove the protective plastic cover from the compressor, if equipped. Under it you will see a start relay and a capacitor (if it is external).
Carefully disconnect the wire terminals. Refrigerators Atlant often use connectors that are secured with plastic clips. Do not pull on the wires themselves, so as not to damage the insulation or internal conductors.
Remove the start relay from the compressor contacts. It is usually simply put on the pins and secured with a bracket or spring. Check the integrity windings visually - there should be no traces of burning or melting on them.
| Element | Function | Fault symptom |
|---|---|---|
| Start relay | Engine start | Clicks, no start |
| Thermal relay | Overheat protection | Operation without heating |
| Condenser | Start smoothing | Bloating of the housing |
Removing the compressor from the refrigerator frame
Motor-compressor in refrigerators Atlant is attached to a metal frame through four shock-absorbing bushings. They dampen vibrations during operation of the unit. To remove it, you need to unscrew the nuts on the studs passing through these bushings.
Use two wrenches at the same time: hold the nut with one, and the stud or locknut with the other, so as not to turn the threads in the frame body. Sudden movements can damage shock absorberswhich will then have to be changed.
☑️ Removal checklist
After unscrewing the nuts, the compressor still holds on pipes. Do not attempt pull it out by force. Carefully lift the assembly to free access to the soldering points of the copper lines.
⚠️ Attention: Residual pressure may remain in the system. When the tubes are bitten off, gas may hiss and oil may splash. Take care of your eyes.
Disconnecting the copper tubes and removing the assembly
This is the most critical stage. Copper tubes (discharge and suction) are soldered to the compressor fittings. To separate them, you need to heat the soldering area with a gas torch.
Heat the joint evenly until the solder becomes soft. Then, using pliers, gently wiggle the tube to remove it from its socket. A sharp jerk can break the thin fitting on the compressor itself.
If you do not plan to immediately solder the new compressor, you need holes in the system plug. The entry of moisture and air into the circuit is unacceptable, as this will lead to the formation of ice plugs and corrosion.
What to do with the old compressor?
The old unit contains technical oil, which cannot be drained into the sewer or onto the ground. Take it to scrap metal or electronics recycling centers.
After disconnecting all communications, remove the compressor from the frame completely. Now it is completely ready for disposal or repair in a specialized workshop.
Installing a new unit and checking the tightness
Installing a new one motor-compressor is performed in the reverse order. First, the assembly is attached to the frame through new shock absorbers (old ones often lose elasticity). Then the copper tubes are sealed.
When soldering, use flux and solder with a melting point that meets the manufacturer's requirements. Avoid overheating so as not to burn through the thin walls of the tubes or damage the insulation inside the housing.
After mechanical installation, be sure to carry out crimping nitrogen. This will allow you to identify microcracks or poor-quality seams before refilling with freon. The pressure in the system must remain stable for a certain time.
Only after making sure of the tightness, you can begin to evacuate the system and charge it with refrigerant. The amount of freon must strictly correspond to the marking on the refrigerator.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to remove the compressor without releasing freon?
Theoretically, you can clamp the tubes with special pliers, but in practice this is difficult to do efficiently without equipment. Typically, freon is released into the atmosphere or collected in a cylinder, if possible.
Is it necessary to change the filter-drier when replacing the compressor?
Yes, the filter-drier is a disposable element. When the circuit is opened, it is saturated with moisture from the air, and its replacement is mandatory for normal operation of the system.
Why does the compressor Atlant get very hot after replacement?
There may be several reasons: insufficient quantity freon, dirty condenser, faulty start relay or defective new compressor. Diagnostics of current and pressure parameters is required.
What tool is needed for soldering tubes?
The best option is an oxygen-propane torch. It gives a clean flame and sufficient temperature to melt copper-phosphorus solder without burning out the metal.