Diagnostics and repair of refrigeration equipment often require access to the internal components of the compressor, in particular the start relay. This small but critical part is responsible for starting the engine, and its failure causes the unit to stop cooling. However, before diagnosing or replacing, it is necessary to correctly and safely dismantle the protective casing that hides the electrical contacts.
Many owners of household appliances encounter difficulties already at the stage of removing the cover, since designs may differ depending on the manufacturer and year of manufacture of the model. Incorrect actions can lead to damage to copper tubes or loss of system tightness, which will lead to costly repairs. Therefore, it is important to clearly understand the sequence of actions and observe safety precautions when working with live electrical appliances.
In this article we will analyze in detail the process of dismantling the protective casing, consider the different types of fasteners and pay attention to the nuances of working with different brands of refrigerators. You will learn what tools are needed for the job, how to protect yourself from electric shock, and what to look for when inspecting the removed part. A competent approach to disassembly is half of a successful repair, allowing you to avoid additional breakdowns.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
Before starting any work with electrical appliances, you must make sure that the refrigerator is completely disconnected from the electrical network. Simply switching the button on the case is not enough - be sure to remove the plug from the socket. This is a basic electrical safety rule that, if ignored, can result in serious injury. You should work with the compressor only after the device has been left without power for at least 15-20 minutes so that the capacitors are discharged.
To dismantle the cover, you will need a minimum set of tools, which are usually found in every home. The main tool will be a flat-head screwdriver, preferably with a thin tip, to carefully pry the latches. You may also need a Phillips screwdriver if the casing is secured with screws. In some cases, especially with older models, you may need pliers or a multimeter to subsequently check the contacts.
- 🔧 Flat-head screwdriver - for pressing out the plastic latches and removing the clamps.
- 🔩 Phillips screwdriver - in case there is a screw fastening of the casing.
- 🧤 Dielectric gloves - for additional protection when working with electrical components.
- 🔦 Flashlight - for better illumination of the compressor area, as it is often dark there.
Organize your work space so that it is convenient for you to lean towards the back wall of the refrigerator. Make sure the floor is dry and clean to prevent slipping or dust from getting into open parts. If you plan to carry out diagnostics with a multimeter, prepare it in advance so as not to look for the tool during work, when access to the node is already limited.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, check the integrity of the power cord. If the insulation is damaged, it is strictly prohibited to work with the device until the cable is replaced.
The metal edges of the casings of old refrigerators are often not factory treated, so working with gloves would be a reasonable precaution. Also, do not forget to ensure good ventilation of the room if work is carried out in a closed niche or pantry.
Access to the compressor compartment
After the refrigerator is unplugged and moved away from the wall, you need to gain access to the bottom of the unit where the compressor is located. Depending on the design of your model, access may be open or closed with a special decorative panel. Modern models often use a metal or plastic back wall that covers the entire bottom of the refrigerator.
If the compressor is covered by a panel, it must be removed. Fastenings can be made in the form of perimeter latches or screws. Be careful not to break the plastic clips, which become brittle over time. If the panel is metal and screwed with self-tapping screws, put them in a separate container so as not to lose them.
☑️ Check before dismantling
In some models, for example, Indesit or Stinol, the compressor group can be partially covered with a plastic box. It also needs to be removed by first unscrewing the fasteners. After removing the outer panels, you will see a black cylindrical or pear-shaped tank - this is the motor-compressor. The relay is usually mounted on the side of it.
Pay attention to the condition of the tubes and wires in this area. If you see traces of oil, rust, or melted insulation, this may indicate a more serious problem than just a faulty relay. A visual inspection before starting disassembly helps to get a complete picture of the technical condition of the device.
Identification of the type of fastening of the protective cover
Before using force, you need to understand how exactly the relay cover is secured to your refrigerator. There are several main types of fixation, and the method of dismantling directly depends on the design. Incorrectly applying force where a screw is needed can lead to breakage of the plastic or damage to the contacts.
The most common option in modern refrigerators, such as LG, Samsung or Beko is fastening with plastic latches. The cover tightly wraps around the relay and compressor, fixing at several points. In this case, to remove it, you need to carefully press the latches with a flat screwdriver. It is important not to damage the cover itself, as it serves as protection against dust and moisture.
The second type of fastening is screw. Found in older models or industrial refrigerators. Here the cover (or metal casing) is secured with one or two screws to the compressor housing or frame. In this case, you need to select the appropriate bit or screwdriver attachment to unscrew the fastener.
| Type of fastening | Characteristic features | Tool | Risks during removal |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plastic latches | No visible screws, tight fit | Flat screwdriver | Break the ears of the latches |
| Screw connection | Visible screw heads or self-tapping screws | Phillips/slotted screwdriver | Tear off threads or slots |
| Metal clamp | Circular clamp around the relay | Pliers or screwdriver | Damage the compressor tubes |
The third option is combined or specific. For example, in some models Atlant or Nord the cover can be additionally fixed with a spring clip or a metal bracket. Carefully inspect the assembly from all sides in good lighting so as not to miss the hidden lock.
Nuances of old models
In Soviet-made refrigerators (ZIL, Saratov), the relay is often covered with a common metal cap, which removed together with the relay. Be careful, the edges of such a cap can be very sharp.
The process of removing the relay cover
The process of removing the cover requires care and precise movements. If you determine that you have a snap-type mount, insert the tip of a flathead screwdriver into the gap between the cover and the compressor housing. There is no need to put in excessive effort; The task is to carefully bend the plastic so that the latch comes out. Move around the perimeter, releasing each latch one by one.
When working with screw fastenings, act even more carefully. There is a risk of dropping the screw inside the refrigerator body or behind the tubes, where it will be extremely difficult to get it out. It is recommended to hold the cover with your second hand when unscrewing the last turn of the thread so that it does not fall sharply and damage the copper lines.
If the cover fits very tightly and cannot be removed by hand after releasing the latches, do not jerk it sharply. Try rocking it slightly from side to side. Sometimes plastic “sticks” due to temperature or contamination. You can use a small amount of penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40), but only if you are sure that it will not come into contact with the electrical contacts of the relay.
After the cover is removed, the starting relay itself will open in front of you, often together with a thermal protection relay. In some designs they are combined into a single unit. Now you can visually assess the condition of the part: are there any blackening, cracks or traces of plastic melting.
Features of removing the cover on different models
Different refrigerator manufacturers use different engineering solutions to protect the relay. Knowing these features can greatly simplify the task. For example, in refrigerators Electrolux i Zanussi there is often a system where the relay is closed by a common plastic casing that also covers the capacitor.
In models Bosch i Siemens the relay can be installed vertically and closed a separate cover, which is fixed on the guides. It is important here not to confuse the top and bottom when removing. And refrigerators Whirlpool i Hotpoint-Ariston often use a metal clamp that needs to be loosened.
Particular attention should be paid to refrigerators with No Frost system, where access to the compressor may be difficult due to the presence of additional fans or ducts. In such cases, sometimes it is necessary to remove not only the bottom panel, but also partially dismantle the rear condenser grille.
If you are the owner of a rare or old model, and the design is not clear to you, it is better to find technical documentation or video instructions specifically for your series. There is no universal algorithm for all refrigerators in the world, and engineering is constantly evolving.
Diagnostics and precautions
After removing the cover, access for diagnostics opens. However, even when the refrigerator is turned off, a residual charge may remain in the capacitors. Do not touch the metal contacts of the relay with your fingers immediately. Let the device stand or carefully close the contacts with a dielectric tool (if this is necessary according to the instructions for a specific model).
When inspecting the relay, pay attention to the integrity of the housing. Cracks may indicate overheating or mechanical shock. Also check the condition of the contacts: oxidation or carbon deposits can cause poor contact, even if the relay itself is working properly. Cleaning the contacts may temporarily solve the problem, but most often the assembly will need to be replaced.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to disassemble the start relay itself (plastic case with coil). This is a non-separable unit, and opening it will lead to the impossibility of further operation. Change the entire part.
If you are planning to install a new relay, make sure that it is completely identical to the old one. The markings must match. Installing the wrong relay can cause the compressor windings to burn out, which is a much more serious and expensive failure.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to remove the relay cover without removing the refrigerator from the frame?
In most cases, this is possible if there is access to the back wall. However, if access is very limited or the compressor itself needs to be replaced, the refrigerator will have to be laid on its side. Be careful: you can only lay the refrigerator on a certain side (usually opposite the side where the tubes exit the compressor) so that oil does not get into the refrigerant circuit.
What to do if the plastic lid latch breaks?
If the latch breaks off, the lid will not hold tightly. You can temporarily fix it with electrical tape or a plastic clamp, but it is important to provide ventilation to the relay. In the long term, it is better to find a similar cover at disassembly or order a new one, since open contacts are a risk of a short circuit.
Is it necessary to drain the freon before removing the relay cover?
No, to remove the protective cover and replace the start relay, you do not need to open the refrigeration circuit and drain the freon. These works are carried out only on the electrical part of the unit when the power is turned off. The tightness of the system is not compromised.
How to understand that the cover has been removed correctly and nothing is damaged?
If the cover has been removed without using excessive force, and after removing it you see the whole relay, wires and tubes without deformation, then the process was successful. If you heard the crunch of plastic or saw sparks, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of all components before assembly.