Diagnostics of refrigeration equipment malfunctions often requires access to the main component of the system - the compressor. If you are faced with a situation where the unit has stopped cooling, is humming too loudly or does not start at all, this expensive unit will most likely need to be replaced or repaired. The dismantling process compressor looks complicated only at first glance, but requires strict adherence to safety precautions and sequence of actions.
Before starting any work, it is necessary to completely de-energize the household appliance. Electric current poses a mortal danger, so the plug must be removed from sockets long before disassembly begins. It is also important to understand that there is refrigerant inside the system, which is under pressure, so sudden movements or damage to the tubes can lead to the release of gas.
In this article we will look in detail at how to properly prepare the workplace, what tools will be needed to successfully remove the motor, and what design nuances of different brands you should pay special attention to. A competent approach will avoid damage to copper pipes and electrical wiringwhich will save you time and money on subsequent repairs.
Preparation of the workplace and the necessary tools
High-quality preparation of the space is the key to successful repairs. You will need some clear space around the refrigerator to allow easy access to the bottom of the refrigerator. It is best to roll out the unit to the middle of the kitchen or to the corridor, where good lighting will allow you to see small parts of fasteners and connectors.
To work, you will need a standard home craftsman's kit, supplemented with several specific tools. First of all, prepare screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead), pliers, side cutters and, possibly, socket wrenches or sockets if the fastening bolts are deeply seated. It would also be useful to have a flashlight to illuminate hard-to-reach places in the compressor niche.
Be sure to prepare a container to collect oil that may leak from the old compressor when dismantling it. Even if you are planning to install a new motor, there is always a certain amount of grease left in the old one, which, when tilted, can spill onto the floor, leaving difficult to remove stains on the coating.
- 🛠️ A set of screwdrivers of various sizes for removing protective panels and clamps.
- 🔧 Pliers or pliers for working with clamps and wire clamps.
- 🔦 A powerful flashlight or headlamp to illuminate the rear wall of the unit.
- 🧤 Protective gloves to prevent cuts from sharp metal edges.
Pay special attention to the organization of lighting. The shadow of your body or the refrigerator itself can hide important fasteners. Using an additional light source mounted on the head or a tripod will allow you to keep both hands free to manipulate the tool.
Access to the compressor and safety measures
After the refrigerator is unplugged and moved away from the wall, you need to gain access to the motor. On most models, the compressor is located at the lower rear of the housing. To get to it, you need to remove the protective panel, which can be secured with latches or screws.
⚠️ Attention: Before removing the panel, make sure that the refrigerator has been unplugged for at least 2-3 hours. This is necessary so that the pressure in the system has time to equalize and the oil flows into the compressor crankcase, which minimizes the risk of splashing when the circuit is opened.
The process of removing the panel requires care. The plastic fasteners on older models may be dry and brittle. Go slowly, checking each screw. If the panel cannot be removed, do not use brute force - you may have missed a hidden fastener or a screw covered with a decorative plug.
After removing the cover, you will have a view of the compressor, capacitor grille and start relay. At this stage, it is important to visually assess the condition of the wires and tubes. If you notice signs of corrosion, melted insulation, or oil leaks in unexpected places, this may indicate additional malfunctions that should be considered before starting work.
Safety also concerns hand protection. The metal edges of the panels and the compressor housing itself may have sharp burrs. Working with thick construction gloves will protect the skin from cuts and scratches, which can become inflamed if technical lubricants come into contact with it.
Disconnecting electrical circuits and starting relay
The first step in the dismantling process is to disconnect the electrical part. The compressor is connected to the network through a starting and protective relay, which are usually placed directly on the motor contact group. These elements may be covered with a plastic casing, which must be carefully removed.
Remove the relay from the contacts. It may hold quite tightly, so give it a gentle wiggle from side to side, but don't yank too hard to avoid damaging fragile contacts or wires. After removing the relay you will see three contacts going to the compressor. They need to be disconnected.
In some models, the wires may be soldered or secured in the terminal block. If using a terminal block, simply press out the latches. If the wires are soldered, you will have to carefully cut them with side cutters, leaving a margin of length for subsequent connection to the new motor. Be sure to remember or photograph the connection diagram so that when installing a new compressor you do not confuse phase, neutral and grounding.
- 📸 Take a photograph of connecting the wires before disconnecting them.
- ✂️ Use side cutters with a narrow tip to cut wires in hard-to-reach places.
- 🏷️ Mark the wires with tags or colored tape if their colors are the same.
It is important to check the condition of the wires for fractures or melting. Often the cause of failure of a new compressor is a faulty start relay or a short circuit in the wiring that occurred previously. Replacing the motor without eliminating the cause of the electrical malfunction will lead to repeated failure.
Removal features depending on the type of compressor
Modern refrigerators are equipped with different types of compressors, and the procedure for removing them may have its own characteristics. Traditional piston motors, which operate on an on-off basis, are usually mounted on four shock-absorbing legs. Inverter models may have a different mounting and control system.
Linear compressors, often found in technology LG and Whirlpool, have a different design from the classic ones. They operate without rotational movements, which reduces vibration, but their removal requires special care with the electronic control unit, which is often integrated into the system.
What is different about an inverter compressor when removed?
Inverter motors often have a more complex control board mounting system. When dismantling them, it is important not to damage the piston position sensors, which can be output via a separate cable. In addition, such compressors are often lighter than classic ones, but require more precise calibration after installation.
If your refrigerator has a dual-motor system (for example, separate circuits for the refrigerator and freezer compartments), the removal procedure is repeated for each of them independently. However, access to them may be difficult due to the design of the case, and sometimes partial disassembly of the rear wall of the cabinet is required.
| Compressor type | Mounting features | Difficulty of removal | Nuances |
|---|---|---|---|
| Piston | 4 shock absorbers with bushings | Low | Heavy, requires physical strength |
| Inverter | Combined (bolts + bushings) | Medium | Sensitive to shocks and statics |
| Linear | Specific slides | High | Requires precise positioning |
Understanding the type of your motor will help you prepare the necessary keys in advance. For example, some inverter models may require hexagons of rare sizes that are not included in the standard household set.
Disconnecting copper pipes and removing fasteners
The most critical stage is working with copper refrigerant pipes. The compressor is connected to the system by two main pipes: discharge (outlet) and suction (input). They can be soldered or connected through threaded fittings (in newer or industrial models).
If the tubes are soldered, to disconnect them you will need to bite them with a pipe cutter or carefully cut them with a hacksaw in a convenient place, 5-10 cm away from the compressor body. The use of wire cutters is not recommended, as they can flatten the tube, which will make it difficult subsequent soldering of the new motor. If you do not plan to solder the system yourself, it is better to delegate this stage to a specialist with a vacuum pump.
⚠️ Attention: When cutting the tubes, residual gas and oil may escape from the system. Protect your eyes and ensure the room is ventilated. The refrigerant is lighter or heavier than air (depending on the type), so it can accumulate in the lower part of the room.
After disconnecting the tubes, you must remove the compressor from the shock absorbers. It is mounted on metal studs or bolts that pass through rubber bushings. Often these bushings become sour or rust, and it is impossible to simply remove the motor. In such cases, you may need to carefully pry the body with a pry bar or use WD-40 to process the connections.
☑️ Checklist before lifting the motor
When removing the motor, remember its weight. The compressor weighs from 10 to 20 kg, and holding it with one hand while unscrewing the last bolt is extremely inconvenient and dangerous. It is better to perform this operation with an assistant or use a stop.
Removing the old motor and preparing for installation
When all the fasteners are loosened and the tubes and wires are disconnected, the moment comes to remove the unit. This should be done smoothly, trying not to tilt the compressor sharply. There is oil inside, and if you turn the motor upside down or on its side more than 45 degrees, oil may enter the refrigerant circuit, causing the capillary tube to clog.
The removed compressor should be immediately installed vertically in a prepared place. If you plan to dispose of your old motor, make sure that any remaining oil does not spill on the floor. For a new motor, it is important to keep the transport plugs on the pipes until soldering, so that moisture and dust do not get inside.
Inspect the installation site. Dirt, dust and shavings may have accumulated on the bottom of the refrigerator. Before installing a new unit, it is recommended to thoroughly wipe the pan and check the condition of the metal frame for corrosion. Rust can destroy the mounting holes over time.
Check the completeness of the new motor. Often new compressors are supplied without a start relay and thermal protection - they need to be replaced from the old unit. Make sure that the relay model fully matches the characteristics of the new engine.
Typical mistakes when dismantling a compressor
When doing independent repairs, mistakes are often made that can lead to additional costs. One of the most common is damage to the suction tube when trying to remove the compressor. Copper is very soft, and careless movement can deform the hole, which will require the use of a special tool to restore the geometry before soldering.
Another mistake is ignoring the state of the electrical contacts. Oxidized or burnt terminals on the relay can cause rapid failure of a new, newly installed compressor. Cleaning the contacts and checking the voltage in the network is a mandatory step.
Also, beginners often forget about the cleanliness of the system. If even a microscopic particle of solder or dirt gets inside the tubes if bitten carelessly, it can clog the capillary. The refrigerator system is extremely sensitive to the cleanliness of the internal circuit.
- ❌ Do not bend copper tubes at an acute angle - they break easily.
- ❌ Do not leave the compressor and system pipes open longer than necessary.
- ❌ Do not use old refrigerant or oil if complete replacement of the circuit.
Remember that after physically removing the motor and installing a new one, a mandatory procedure is to evacuate the system and charge it with refrigerant. Without special equipment (a vacuum pump and a pressure gauge station), it is impossible to start the refrigerator - it either will not work or will burn out in a few minutes.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to remove the compressor without bleeding the freon?
Technically, you can remove the housing, but the tubes you will still have to have a snack or drink. At this moment, freon will be released into the atmosphere. It makes sense to specifically bleed it in advance through the valve (if there is one) only for disposal, but in domestic conditions the gas will still come out when the circuit depressurizes.
Is it necessary to flush the system when replacing a compressor?
Yes, if the old compressor burns out and throws oil into the system, flushing with nitrogen is mandatory. If the motor simply stops pumping without shorting the windings, flushing may not be necessary, but installing a new filter-drier is required.
How much does a refrigerator compressor weigh?
The weight of a standard household compressor varies from 10 to 15 kg. Inverter models can be lighter (about 8-10 kg), and powerful motors for large Side-by-Side refrigerators can reach 20 kg.
Is it possible to transport a removed compressor lying down?
It is strictly not recommended. The new compressor must be transported and stored strictly in an upright position. Transporting it lying down can lead to oil leaking into the circulation circuit, which will cause water hammer at the first start.