Detection of a puddle of water on the kitchen floor next to the refrigerator - a situation familiar to many owners household appliances. Often the cause is an overfilled or misaligned condensate collection panlocated at the bottom of the unit. The water generated when the evaporator defrosts should flow there and evaporate naturally, but if the system is broken, intervention is required.
Before taking active steps, you need to accurately determine the design of your refrigerator. In different models, be it Indesit, Atlant or LG, access to the drainage system may differ significantly. In some places it is enough to just pull out the tray, but in others you will need to partially disassemble the back wall or remove the compressor panel.
In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithms of action for various types of equipment. You'll learn what tools you'll need, how to avoid damaging fragile plastic parts, and what to do if water continues to flow even after cleaning. The correct approach to maintenance will extend the life of the compressor and prevent corrosion of the metal parts of the housing.
Drainage system design and tray location
The drainage system of the refrigerator is a channel through which melt water flows from the internal chamber into a special tank. This reservoir, or evaporation trayis most often located above the compressor at the lower rear of the unit. The heat from a running motor promotes the rapid evaporation of moisture, so in a working device, water should not overflow.
However, in some modern models with a system No Frost the design may be more complicated. The tray here can be built-in and hidden behind the decorative panel of the base. Understanding exactly where the container is located in your case is critical to getting started. Incorrect actions can lead to damage to tubes or electrical components.
⚠️ Attention: Before any manipulations with the back of the refrigerator, be sure to disconnect the device from the power supply. Working with electrical appliances in disassembled form without observing safety precautions is prohibited.
The location of the elements directly affects the complexity of dismantling. If in old Samsung or Biryusa models the tray was often removable and immediately accessible, then in new built-in refrigerators access may be limited by a tight fit in a niche. Always assess the situation visually before making physical efforts.
Necessary tools and preparation for work
To successfully complete the task of removing the pallet, you do not need a complex professional tool. In most cases, the minimum set that can be found in any home craftsman’s drawer is sufficient. The main thing is to provide yourself with convenient access to the bottom of the unit.
Here is a list of what you may need in the process:
- 🔧 Screwdriver (Phillips and flat) for removing the panel mounting screws.
- 🧤 Protective gloves to avoid getting your hands dirty with dirt and oil.
- 🧽 A rag or sponge to remove residual moisture and plaque.
- 🔦 A flashlight for better illumination of the space under the refrigerator.
Particular attention should be paid to the cleanliness of the workplace. If the pan is overfilled, the water may be contaminated with dust and bacterial waste products, so it is better to prepare a container for draining the liquid in advance. It is also recommended to free up space around the refrigerator by moving it away from the wall at least 50-70 cm.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
Removing the tray in refrigerators with an open compressor
Classic layout, typical for most models Atlant, Indesit and old ones series Bosch, assumes that the pan lies directly on the upper surface of the compressor or is mounted on brackets above it. In such cases, the removal process is usually straightforward.
First remove the protective cardboard or metal panel covering the rear of the engine compartment. It can be secured with latches or screws. After removing the panel, you will see the compressor, condenser grille and, directly above them, a plastic tray. In some designs, it is simply inserted into the grooves and is held in place due to the tight fit.
To remove the container, carefully grasp its edges and pull it towards you. If the tray is secured with screws, they must first be unscrewed. It often happens that plastic “sticks” over time or becomes deformed due to temperature, so proceed carefully so as not to break the fasteners. If the tray fits very tightly, you can slightly rock it from side to side.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use excessive force if the tray does not give way. Check for hidden fasteners or screws that you may have missed. A sharp jerk can break the plastic bottom, and then you will have to look for a replacement.
What to do if the tray is cracked?
If during the removal process you find a crack or break off part of the fastening, do not rush to throw away the tray. For temporary repairs, you can use a waterproof sealant or epoxy resin after degreasing the surface. However, for a long-term solution, it is better to order an original spare part for the refrigerator model.
Removing the tray in models with a hidden system (No Frost)
In refrigerators with a system No Frost or in modern designer models, the tray is often hidden behind a decorative base in the lower front part or behind the rear panel, which cannot be reached without a partial showdown. Here the algorithm of actions becomes more complex and requires care.
Often it is necessary to remove the lower ventilation grille from the front. It can be held on by latches that need to be pryed off with a flat screwdriver, or by screws hidden under decorative plugs. After dismantling the grille, access to the space under the compressor opens. On some models Liebherr or Siemens the tray may be secured to rails running along the bottom of the case.
If access is from the rear by removing the large metal cover, make sure you do not touch any wires or copper tubing. In such designs, the tray can be combined with a water drainage channel running along the entire rear wall. Carefully disconnect the drain tube if it does not move freely, and remove the tray through the bottom or side.
The table below will help determine the type of access depending on the brand:
| Refrigerator brand | Access type | Mounting pallet | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Atlant | Rear (open) | Without screws / On screws | Easy access, often lies on top |
| Indesit | Rear / Bottom | Latch | May require removal of motor panel |
| LG (No Frost) | Front (base) | Guides | Need to remove bottom grille |
| Bosch | Rear | Screws + grooves | Tight fit, neat with tubes |
Cleaning, disinfection and odor removal
Once you have managed to remove the pan, do not rush to install it immediately back. It is in this container that the largest number of bacteria, mold and dirt accumulate, which often causes an unpleasant odor from the refrigerator. The water stagnates here, mixes with dust and creates an ideal environment for microorganisms.
Rinse the tray with warm water and detergent. A solution of baking soda, vinegar or chlorhexidine is ideal for disinfection. Carefully go over all corners and joints with a sponge where a slimy coating may have formed. If a hard limescale deposit has formed at the bottom, it can be soaked by filling the container with a solution of citric acid for 15-20 minutes.
Don't forget to clean the drainage channel leading to the pan. Often a blockage forms precisely at the junction of the tube and the tray. Use a brush or soft wire wrapped in cotton to remove the plug from the dirt. Blow out the channel or pour it with a small amount of warm water to make sure there is free flow.
Common problems and ways to solve them
Even after the pan is installed correctly, water may continue to flow out. This indicates the presence of other faults in the system. One of the common reasons is the incorrect tilt angle of the refrigerator. If the unit is standing strictly vertically or tilted back, water will not flow into the drainage hole inside the chamber, but will spread along the bottom.
Check the adjustment of the support legs. The front of the refrigerator should be slightly raised relative to the back to allow water to flow by gravity to the drain. The problem may also lie in the freezing of the drainage tube inside the freezer, which requires complete defrosting of the unit for a day.
If the tray is intact, clean, and installed correctly, but water still pours onto the floor, the tightness of the connections may be broken or the tray itself may be damaged (microcracks). In this case, you will need to replace the part with a new one. It is also worth checking whether the refrigerator has moved or whether the tubes are crushed at the back.
Why is the pan full, although the refrigerator is working normally?
This may occur during the hot season or when indoor humidity is high. The evaporation of moisture from the surface of the pan does not keep pace with the rate of water flow from defrosting. Also, the reason may be frequent opening of doors or storage of uncovered liquid food, which increases the load on the system.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator without a tray?
It is strictly not recommended. Without a pan, water will drip directly onto the compressor and electrical contacts, which can cause a short circuit, metal corrosion and failure of an expensive motor. In addition, this will create constant dampness and the risk of mold.
How often should you clean the pan?
It is recommended to carry out preventive cleaning of the pan and drainage system once every 6-12 months. If you notice the appearance of an odor or visible dirt, the procedure should be performed immediately, without waiting for scheduled maintenance.
What to do if the pan cannot be removed?
Do not use force. Light the space with a flashlight and carefully inspect the structure. Perhaps wires, tubes are in the way, or there is a hidden lock. Some models require the entire rear metal wall to be removed. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to contact a service center.