Brand refrigerators Stinol are deservedly considered one of the most reliable and repairable units in the post-Soviet space. However, even the best equipment breaks down over time, and one of the most common problems is the compressor refusing to start or quickly shutting down. In most cases, the culprit of such a breakdown is starting relay, which is responsible for starting the engine and protecting against overloads. Replacing this part does not require calling a technician and can be done independently with a minimum set of tools and basic knowledge about the structure of the refrigeration unit.
Before taking active steps, it is necessary to accurately diagnose the problem. If you hear a soft click, followed by a hum from the compressor, and then another click and silence, this is a sure sign that the starter is not doing its job. Also, a malfunction may be indicated by the absence of a characteristic click when turned on or, conversely, its constant crackling sound. It is important to understand that ignoring these symptoms can lead to more serious consequences, including compressor wedge or failure of the electric motor windings, so prompt replacement of the relay is an economically feasible solution.
In this article we will analyze in detail the process of dismantling the starting relay specifically on models refrigerators Stinol, taking into account the design features of their compressor groups. You will learn what tools you will need for the job, how to properly organize your workspace, and what nuances to pay attention to so as not to damage fragile tubes or electrical contacts. A correctly performed procedure for removing and installing a new part guarantees long and stable operation of your refrigerator without unnecessary costs for expensive service.
⚠️ Attention: All work on replacing the electrical components of the refrigerator should be carried out exclusively with the power supply disconnected from the network. Residual voltage in the capacitors or accidental activation of the compressor during manipulation can lead to electric shock or short circuit.
Preparation for repair and necessary tools
The success of any repair operation depends 90% on quality preparation. To replace the start relay on a refrigerator Stinol you do not need complex specialized equipment; a standard home repair kit is enough. The main thing is to ensure easy access to the rear of the unit, so clear space against the wall in advance and move the refrigerator so that you can easily walk around it. Remember that the compressor assembly is located at the lower rear of the case, and you will have to work in a squatting or lying position.
A basic set of tools includes pliers, a screwdriver (Phillips and flathead, as the screws can be different) and possibly side cutters or a wire stripper if modification of the contacts is required. It is also highly recommended to prepare a multimeter to check the integrity of the windings and the relay itself before installation. It would be a good idea to have a flashlight, since the lighting in the compressor niche is often insufficient, and it is extremely important to consider the markings of parts or the condition of the contacts.
☑️ Tools and preparation
Particular attention should be paid to the safety and organization of the workspace. Cover the floor with a soft cloth or cardboard to avoid scratching the surface and to provide space for the removed parts to spread out. If you have long hair or wear loose clothing, tuck it away to prevent it from getting caught on protruding parts of the compressor or sharp edges of the metal casing. The compressor may be hot when it stops, so let the equipment cool down for 15-20 minutes after the last start before starting work.
Access to the compressor unit of the Stinol refrigerator
Refrigerator models Stinol (especially series 101, 102, 103, 104, 105, 107, 110, 116, 117, 118, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 129, 130, 131, 132, 133, 134, 155, 157, 162, 163, 164, 166, 167, 205, 206, 207, 209, 210, 212, 213, 214, 220, 222, 223, 225, 230, 231, 232, 233, 234, 240, 242, 256, 260, 261, 320, 321, 322, 324, 325, 330, 331, 333, 334, 335, 340, 341, 342, 344, 345, 350, 353, 354, 355) are often equipped with a protective cover at the bottom of the rear wall. This casing can be made of metal sheet or thick cardboard/plywood, depending on the year of manufacture and the specific modification. Your task is to carefully dismantle this protection in order to get a full overview of the motor-compressor.
If the casing is metal, it is usually attached to several screws or latches. Use a suitable screwdriver to remove the fasteners, being careful not to lose the screws as they may have a non-standard head. In the case of a cardboard or plywood lid, it can be held on with latches or simply fit tightly. Be careful not to tear the material, as it serves as heat and sound insulation, as well as protection against dust. After removing the cover, you will have a view of the black “tank” of the compressor, the condenser grille and the tube system.
What to do if the casing is rusty?
If the metal casing is heavily rusted and the screws cannot be unscrewed, do not use excessive force so as not to strip the threads. Treat the connections with a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40) and wait 10-15 minutes. If this doesn't work, you can carefully cut away the rusty areas with tin snips, but try to maintain the basic integrity of the sheet for later installation.>
Visually inspect the open space. You will see copper tubing coming from the compressor and a plastic or black box placed over one of the motor terminals. This is the desired starting relay. A thermal protection may be located next to it. On some models Stinol these elements are combined into a single block, on others they are separated. It is important not to confuse the relay with a capacitor (if it is placed separately) or other circuit elements. The marking on the relay body usually contains information about the manufacturer (for example, Danfoss, Indesit, Start-1) and technical parameters.
Design features of starting relays on different models
Refrigerators Stinol were equipped with various types of compressors, most often these were units Danfoss (later Secop) or Indesit (manufactured Aspera or Embraco). Accordingly, starting relays may differ in design, type of mounting and electrical circuit. Understanding the type of your relay will help you correctly dismantle it and select an analogue for replacement. The main differences relate to the method of fixation on the compressor terminals and the internal design of the contact group.
The most common relays are with a vertical fit, which are simply put on the three pins of the compressor and are fixed due to the tightness of the fit and their own housing design. However, there are also models with a horizontal arrangement or with additional fastening through a metal clamp frame. In older models Stinol you can find a relay with a posistor (starting element), in more modern ones - with an electromagnetic mechanism. Relays are also divided into single-phase and two-phase, although in domestic refrigerators a predominantly single-phase connection circuit is used.
It is important to note that starting relay and thermal relay (protection) can be made either as a single unit or separate elements. In the case of a separate version, the thermal protection is a small “pill” that is put on the compressor housing or inserted into an open circuit, and the starting relay is attached nearby. When dismantling a single block, the entire structure is removed, which simplifies the task. If the elements are separate, you only need to remove the starting part, carefully disconnecting the wires from the thermal protection if they are connected.
| Relay type | Characteristic features | Mode of fastening | Compatibility |
|---|---|---|---|
| Posistor (Start-1, R-1 and analogues) | Plastic case, often black or gray, with a ceramic element inside | Put on 3 contacts compressor | Danfoss, Secop compressors |
| Electromagnetic (RTP, RTK) | Metal or bakelite case, inside a coil and a movable core | Mounting on the frame or directly to the terminals | Old models Stinol, Atlant |
| Universal (Complete) | Has several pairs of contacts for connecting wires, comes with adapters | Requires connecting wires according to the diagram | Suitable for most models when selected |
Step-by-step instructions for dismantling the relay
Removal process The start relay on the refrigerator Stinol is technically simple, but requires care and attention. First of all, after making sure that the device is disconnected from the network, remove the protective casing from the back wall, as described in the previous sections. Find the compressor and locate the start relay - it is located on the side of the motor housing, in the lower part. The relay may be covered with an additional plastic cap or have visible wires going to it.
If the relay is fixed with a metal bracket or frame, it must be carefully bent or the mounting screw must be unscrewed. Use pliers to bend the frame antennae, being careful not to apply excessive force to the relay body itself or the compressor tubes. In models where there is no frame, the relay usually just sits tightly on the terminals. In this case, take the relay by the body (not by the wires!) and try to remove it from the contacts with light rocking movements from side to side. Sharp jerks are prohibited, as you can break the ceramic terminals of the compressor.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to pull the relay by the supplied electrical wires. This will lead to a break in the wires inside the insulation or pull out the contacts from the relay itself, which will make the part unsuitable for further use and will require complex soldering for restoration.
After the relay is removed from the compressor terminals, it is necessary to disconnect the wires going to it. Depending on the model, the wires can be connected through detachable terminals (chips) or soldered. If chips are used, simply pry them apart with pliers or your fingers and remove. If the wires are soldered, you will have to carefully cut them with side cutters, leaving enough length for subsequent connection to the new relay. Before snacking, it is advisable to photograph the connection diagram or mark the wires with a marker so as not to confuse phase and zero during assembly.
Diagnostics and checking the removed element
After you have successfully removed the start relay from the refrigerator compressor Stinol, do not rush to throw it away or immediately install a new one. Carrying out basic diagnostics will help you understand the cause of the breakdown and make sure that the problem really lies in this unit, and not, for example, in the compressor itself or the wiring. An external inspection can reveal obvious signs of a malfunction: a melted body, blackened contacts, the presence of soot or cracks.
For a more accurate check, use a multimeter switched to resistance measurement mode (Ohm). If you have a posistor relay, measure the resistance between the contacts. When cold, it should be within normal limits (usually several tens of ohms, the exact value depends on the model). If the device shows infinity (open) or zero (short circuit), the relay is faulty. For electromagnetic relays, check the integrity of the coil winding and the mobility of the core: it should move freely inside the coil and return to its original position under the influence of gravity (if you turn the relay over).
It is also worth checking the thermal protection if it comes with the relay or is located nearby. “Ring” its contacts - in a cold state they should be closed (resistance is close to zero). If the multimeter shows an open circuit, it means that the protection has worked and has not returned to its original state, or has burned out. Often the reason for the failure of the relay is precisely the malfunction of the thermal protection, which does not turn off the motor when overheated, forcing the starting relay to work in extreme conditions.
Common mistakes when removing and installing relays
Despite the apparent simplicity of the operation, beginners often make mistakes that can lead to repeated breakdowns or damage to expensive equipment. One of the most common mistakes is installing a relay of the wrong model. Even if the dimensions are the same and the relay “sits” on the contacts, the electrical parameters (cut-off current, response time) may differ, which will lead to rapid failure of the new element or compressor. Always check the markings and look for complete analogues.
Another common mistake is a careless attitude towards the contact group. Oxidized or burnt contacts on the compressor terminals or on the relay itself create additional resistance, causing heating and sparking. Before installing a new relay, it is recommended to clean the contacts on the compressor with fine sandpaper (carefully, without damaging the coating) or treat them with a special contact spray. It is also important to ensure that the terminals fit tightly on the wires: a loose contact will heat up and melt the insulation.
Do not ignore the direction of installation. Some starting relays (especially electromagnetic ones) are position sensitive and are labeled "Up" or "Top". Installing such a relay upside down will ensure that the core will not fall under its own weight, and the mechanism will not break the starting winding circuit after the engine starts. This will cause the refrigerator to hum and turn off after a few seconds.
⚠️ Attention: Specifications of compressors and relays may vary slightly depending on the year of manufacture and batch. Always compare the markings of the removed part with the new one. If there is no exact analogue, use the correspondence tables or consult a specialist, since installing a relay with the wrong cut-off current can burn out the compressor windings.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Is it possible to repair an old starting relay or just change?
In most cases, modern starting relays (especially posistor ones) are non-removable and cannot be repaired. An attempt to disassemble the case often leads to its destruction. Electromagnetic relays can theoretically be disassembled, the contacts cleaned and the spring bent, but this is a temporary measure. Considering the low cost of a new part, it is more reliable and safer to make a complete replacement.
Why does a new relay burn out a few days after replacement?
There may be several reasons: the type of relay is incorrectly selected (does not match the current or power of the compressor), the thermal protection is faulty (does not turn off the motor when overloaded), problems with the voltage in the network, or, worst of all, the itself is faulty compressor (hard start, wedge). It is also worth checking the capacitor, if it is in the circuit.
Where can you find the markings on the starting relay?
The markings are usually applied to the side or top edge of the plastic housing of the relay. Look for the manufacturer's logo (Danfoss, Indesit, Start), model number (eg 17715, R-1, R-6) and electrical parameters. If the marking is erased, look for information on the compressor model, the information about which is stamped on a metal tag glued to the motor housing.
Do I need to solder the wires when replacing the relay?
Not always. In many cases, standard plug-in terminals are used. However, if the wires are old, brittle or not long enough, it is better to carefully solder the new connection using heat shrink for insulation. Twists in this case are undesirable, since the vibration of the compressor can disrupt the contact.