A sudden stop of the compressor or a characteristic click followed by silence often indicates a malfunction of the start-up protection device. Refrigerators Stinol, despite their reliability, over time require replacement of consumables, which include the relay. This part is responsible for starting the engine and protecting it from overheating, so its failure paralyzes the operation of the entire cooling system.
Many owners mistakenly believe that to replace it it is necessary to call a technician or disassemble half of the unit. In fact, the dismantling process is quite simple and does not require specialized tools if you know where the fasteners are and how to properly disconnect the contacts. In this article, we will look in detail at how to remove the relay from a Stinol refrigerator so that you can quickly restore the functionality of the equipment.
Before taking active steps, you need to make sure that the procedure is safe. Any work involving electrical components requires strict adherence to safety precautions. Ignoring basic rules can lead not only to damage to electronics, but also to injury.
The first and most important step is to completely de-energize the device. Unplug the power cord from the outlet to reduce the risk of electric shock. Even if the compressor is not running, residual voltage may remain in the circuit or a short circuit may occur if driven carelessly. After disconnecting from the mains, move the refrigerator away from the wall, providing free access to the back wall.
You will need a minimum set of tools: flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers, possibly pliers for removing clamps. Inspect the rear panel of the unit. In the compressor area (the black barrel-shaped piece at the bottom) you will see a protective casing or box covering the electrical connections. This is where the desired device is located. Sometimes access may be difficult due to dust covers or decorative trims.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to remove the relay or touch the contacts while the power cord is in the outlet. Even briefly touching exposed live wires is dangerous.
Removing the protective casing usually does not cause difficulties. Fastening elements can be screws or plastic latches. If screws are used, carefully remove them counterclockwise. If the cover is held in place by latches, lightly press the latches and pull the cover towards you. Try not to use excessive force so as not to break the plastic, which could become brittle over the years of operation.
Diagnostics of a malfunction of the start-up relay
Before dismantling the part, you should make sure that the problem lies precisely there. Start relay - this is an electromechanical switch that supplies an impulse to start the compressor. If the refrigerator hums but does not start, or starts for a few seconds and clicks, there is a high probability of failure of this unit. Also, a sign of a malfunction may be strong heating of the compressor in the absence of cold.
There are several types of relays installed on equipment Stinol: induction (RTK) and posistor (RTR). Induction models have a moving core that can stick or burn over time. PTC posistors operate on the basis of a ceramic element that changes resistance when heated, and are considered more reliable, but they also fail. A visual inspection may reveal melting of the plastic, blackening of the contacts or the presence of carbon deposits.
- 🔍 Visual inspection: the presence of cracks on the body, melting or traces of burning.
- 🔊 Sound test: when shaken, a working relay should not make rattling sounds (unless this is a design specificity, but more often the broken core is rattling).
- ⚡ Checking with a multimeter: testing the contacts for breaks or short circuits.
If the device looks intact on the outside, but the refrigerator does not work, more in-depth diagnostics will be required. Often, owners change the relay when the problem lies in the compressor or thermostat itself. Therefore, if after replacing the part the situation has not changed, you should think about checking the motor windings. However, in most cases with refrigerators Stinol, replacing the relay solves the startup problem.
Location and access to the compressor
On refrigerators Stinol the compressor is traditionally located in the lower rear part of the case. It is covered with a metal or plastic casing that protects the mechanism from dust and accidental damage. To remove the relay, you need to gain access to the end of the compressor, where the contact group is located.
Remove the back cover, if available. In some models, access to the relay is immediately available, in others it is necessary to dismantle the metal panel screwed to the frame. Use a screwdriver of the appropriate size. Once the panel is removed you will see a black compressor cylinder with copper tubing and electrical wires attached to it. The relay is placed directly on the compressor terminals.
It is important to note the location of the capacitor, if there is one in the circuit. On older models Stinol next to the starting relay there may be a capacitor in a metal or plastic cup. It also sometimes needs to be dismantled or simply moved aside in order to conveniently work with the main unit. Do not mix up the wires going to the capacitor and to the relay.
⚠️ Attention: When removing the compressor compartment cover, be careful with the copper tubes. They are thin and easily deformed. Damage to the tube will lead to freon leakage and costly repairs.
Inspect the area around the compressor. There may be a lot of dust and cobwebs. Before starting electrical work, it is recommended to carefully vacuum the area or brush off the dust with a dry brush. Dust getting inside the contacts or on hot parts can cause a short circuit or impair heat dissipation.
The process of removing an old relay
Removing a relay is a careful operation that requires attention to detail. The device sits tightly on the compressor terminals and is secured with a retaining bar or bracket. First you need to remove this bracket. It can be metal (U-shaped) or plastic. The metal bracket often just needs to be squeezed with pliers or pryed with a screwdriver to release the relay housing.
After removing the retainer, the relay must be carefully pulled off the compressor contacts. It is held in place by a tight fit on the pins. Do not yank sharply to avoid damaging the compressor leads, which may be fragile if they are old. Take the relay body firmly (but without fanaticism) and pull it towards you with rocking movements.
☑️ Tools for dismantling
When you remove the housing, you will see that wires are connected to it. Usually there are two or three. They can be connected via a terminal block or simply plugged into sockets. Memorize or photograph the wiring diagram before disconnecting the wires. The contacts are often marked on the relay itself, but a photograph will be more reliable.
If the wires are soldered (which is rare on modern models, but possible on older ones), they will have to be carefully unsoldered. However, in 99% of cases, a detachable connection is used. Simply pull the terminals out of their sockets. If they have oxidized and are tight, you can move them slightly from side to side. Stinol a detachable connection is used. Simply pull the terminals out of their sockets. If they are oxidized and are tight, you can move them slightly from side to side.
Connection diagram and contact marking
Correct connection is the key to successful repair. On the relay body Stinol there is usually a diagram or marking of the contacts with letters and numbers. The main designations that you will come across: S (Start - starting winding), R (Run - working winding) and C (Common - common contact). There may also be numbers: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.
The standard connection diagram for most models looks like this: the common wire (often white or black) goes to the contact C or L. The starting winding wire (often red or blue) goes to S. The working winding wire goes to R. Mixing up the contacts can result in the compressor humming but not starting, or the new part burning out.
| Marking | Purpose | Wire color (typical) | Winding |
|---|---|---|---|
| C or L | Common contact (Line) | Black / White | Power |
| S | Start | Red / Blue | Start |
| R | Run | Green / Yellow | Working |
| Overload | Thermal protection | Pair of contacts | Protection |
Pay attention to the thermal relay (overload protection). It is often mounted separately or inserted into the start relay housing. This is a round metal or plastic piece with two contacts. It must fit snugly against the compressor housing in order to read the temperature. When installing a new relay, do not forget to move the thermal protection to a new location if it is not included.
Installation of a new relay and assembly
Installation of the new part is carried out in the reverse order. First, connect the wires to the appropriate terminals on the new relay. Make sure the connection is tight and secure. If the terminals are loose, they can be carefully tightened with pliers, but without excessive force, so as not to split the insulator.
Then put the relay on the compressor contacts. It should fit tightly, all the way. The contact group must fit into the relay slots. Next, install a retaining bracket or bar that will hold the device in place. If you removed the thermal protection, install it so that it is in contact with the motor housing.
Check whether the wires are loose. They must not touch hot parts of the compressor or sharp metal edges. If necessary, secure them with plastic clamps or electrical tape. After this, you can begin installing the protective casing in place.
Checking the functionality of the refrigerator
After assembly, do not rush to push the refrigerator against the wall. Plug it in and listen. You should hear a characteristic click of the relay (if it is inductive) and the compressor starts. The motor should run smoothly, without buzzing or vibration. After 10-15 minutes, check whether the evaporator inside the chamber begins to cool.
If the compressor starts and works, let it run for about an hour. During this time, check the temperature in the chamber and make sure that the compressor itself and the new relay do not heat up to critical temperatures (slight heating is acceptable, but should not burn your hand). Also listen to the absence of extraneous sounds.
⚠️ Attention: If, after turning on, there is a click and silence again, or smoke/sparking starts, immediately unplug the refrigerator from the outlet! This means that the circuit is assembled incorrectly, the relay is faulty, or the problem is deeper (for example, a compressor wedge).
After making sure that the operation is normal, put the back cover in place and screw it on. Slide the refrigerator into its permanent position, making sure there are gaps for ventilation on the sides and back. At this point, the replacement process can be considered complete.
Frequent errors during replacement
One of the most common mistakes is ignoring the type of relay. Owners often buy the first part they come across, without paying attention to the markings and power of the compressor. A relay from a low-power refrigerator will not fit a powerful two-compressor unit Stinol. This will lead to rapid failure of the new part.
The second mistake is poor contact. If the terminals are not fully inserted or are oxidized, sparking and heating will occur at the connection point. This can lead to plastic melting and even fire. Always clean the contacts and check the connection tightness.
- ❌ Incorrect orientation: Some relays only work in a certain position (UP arrow). Installing upside down will disrupt the operation of the mechanism.
- ❌ Ignoring thermal protection: installing the relay without checking or replacing the thermocouple can lead to the compressor burning out when overheated.
- ❌ Mechanical damage: careless handling fragile ceramic elements of the posistor during installation.
Is it possible to repair an old relay rather than changing it?
Theoretically, if the problem is sticking contacts, they can be cleaned. However, the relay housing is often soldered or potted, and it is difficult to open it without damage. In addition, after cleaning, the contacts quickly burn again. A modern relay is inexpensive, so repairing an old device is not economically feasible and less reliable.
Where to buy a suitable relay for Stinol?
Original spare parts for Stinol (which was produced at the Indesit/Ariston factories) can be found in specialized stores of spare parts for household appliances, as well as on marketplaces. Search by part code or compatible analogues (for example, from manufacturers Danfoss, Secop, RAE).
What to do if the new relay does not fit the connector?
If the geometry of the connector is different, but the electrical parameters are the same, you can carefully resolder the wires from the old relay to the new one or use adapter terminals. The main thing is to follow the connection diagram and insulate the connections with heat shrink.
Why does a new relay burn out after a short time?
A common reason is a malfunction of the compressor itself (turn-to-turn short circuit) or problems with the electrical network (voltage surges). Also, the relay can burn out if the compressor piston is jammed and it consumes too much current when trying to start.