A sudden cessation of cooling or, conversely, constant freezing of food in the refrigerator Atlant often indicates a failure of the thermostat. This small device is responsible for maintaining the set temperature inside the chambers by closing and opening the electrical circuit of the compressor. If you notice that the equipment works without stopping or does not turn on at all, and the regulator knob does not respond to turns, most likely it’s time to change thermostat.
The replacement procedure does not require calling a technician and a specialized tool, but requires accuracy and compliance with safety rules. In this article we will look in detail at how to correctly diagnose a breakdown, where to look for the sensor in different models and how to replace it so that your refrigerator works properly again.
Before you begin disassembling, you need to make sure the diagnosis is accurate. Do not rush to disassemble the equipment if there is a possibility that the problem lies in a freon leak or a malfunction of the start relay. Correct diagnosis will save you time and money by eliminating the purchase of unnecessary spare parts.
Signs of a malfunctioning thermostat
The first and most obvious symptom of a breakdown is a violation of the temperature regime. If the food in the main chamber begins to deteriorate faster than usual or, conversely, the vegetables become covered with frost, it is worth taking a closer look at the operation of the thermostat. The compressor can work continuously, trying to “catch up” the temperature, or turn on extremely rarely, not providing the proper cold.
Pay attention to the nature of the motor operation. In a working refrigerator, the on and off cycles alternate with a certain frequency. If refrigeration unit it buzzes without a break or is silent for days, this is a direct signal of a problem with the sensor. Also, a malfunction may be indicated by the absence of a characteristic click when turning the control knob.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a click when you turn the knob, but the compressor does not start, the problem may not be in the thermostat, but in the starting relay or the compressor itself. Do not change serviceable parts at random.
An additional sign is the appearance of condensation or “tears” on the back wall, even when you have not opened the door for a long time. This indicates that the cooling cycle is not completing on time. In some cases, a faulty sensor may give false commands, causing the system to think that the temperature has already been reached, when in reality the chamber is warm.
Preparation of tools and safety precautions
To carry out the work, you will need a minimum set of tools. The main tool will be a Phillips screwdriver, since most fasteners in refrigerators Atlant have just such a slot. You may also need a flat-head screwdriver to carefully pry up plastic latches and decorative panels.
It is extremely important to ensure safety before starting any manipulations with electrical appliances. The refrigerator must be completely de-energized. Unplug the power cord from the outlet and provide access to the back wall or inside of the camera, depending on the model of your device.
- 🔧 Phillips and flathead screwdrivers for removing fasteners.
- 🧤 Work gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal edges.
- 📸 Smartphone for photographing the wiring diagram before disconnecting.
- 🧹 Dry rags for cleaning contacts from dust and oxides.
It would not be amiss to prepare a multimeter to check the integrity of the circuit of the new and old thermostat. This will ensure that the new part is in good working order before installation. If you do not have experience working with electrical measuring instruments, you can get by with visual inspection, but checking with a tester significantly increases the reliability of the repair.
The location of the thermostat in different Atlant models
The design of refrigerators Atlant may vary depending on the year of manufacture and series. In most modern models, the thermostat is located inside the refrigerator compartment. It is located on the side wall or in the corner, hidden under a plastic casing.
In older models, especially dual-chamber ones, the sensor can be placed outside, on the rear wall of the case. In this case, to access it, you do not need to disassemble anything inside the camera; just remove the protective cover from the back. The capillary tube passes through the hole in the chamber wall inside.
| Refrigerator series | Location of thermostat | Mounting type |
|---|---|---|
| Atlant MHM 1700-1800 | Inside the camera, to the left of the lamp | Screws under the plastic |
| Atlant MXM 2800-4000 | Inside the camera, in the corner | Latches and screws |
| Atlant KShD (old) | Outside, on the back wall | Bracket with screws |
You can determine the exact location by the temperature control knob. If it is located inside the camera, then the control unit itself is located there. If the handle is brought out to the “back” of the refrigerator, then the part needs to be changed from the rear wall. In models with the No Frost system, the sensor is often combined with the control unit or located in the evaporator area.
Removing the thermostat in the refrigerator compartment
If your thermostat is located inside, start by freeing up space. Remove any shelves or products that may interfere with access to the side wall. Remove the lampshade, if it is located nearby, so as not to damage it during operation.
Carefully pry up the plastic cover that hides the fasteners. It can be held on by latches or small screws. Proceed with caution; the plastic in older refrigerators becomes brittle and can crack if handled carelessly. After removing the cover, you will have access to the thermostat housing.
Before unscrewing the device itself, take a photograph of the location of the wires. This is a critical point, since mixed up contacts can lead to a short circuit or incorrect operation of the refrigerator. Remember or write down which wire is connected where, especially if the color marking is not obvious.
☑️ Removing the thermostat
Unscrew the screws holding the thermostat housing and carefully remove it. The capillary tube, which goes deep into the wall or is attached to the evaporator, requires careful handling. Do not pull it sharply so as not to damage the thin system filled with refrigerant.
Removing the sensor from the rear wall (external location)
In models where the thermostat is placed outside, the removal process looks different. You will need to move the refrigerator away from the wall, allowing access to the back. Remove the protective cover covering the compressor and condenser if it obstructs your view.
Locate the thermostat unit. It is usually mounted on a bracket near the point where the capillary tube enters the refrigerator body. Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the protective cap from the handle, if any. Disconnect the wires, after taking a photo for memory.
Pay special attention to the capillary tube. At the point where it exits the housing, it is often fixed with a sealant or sealant. Carefully release the tube, being careful not to pinch or break it. Any damage to the tube will cause sensitive gas to leak and the thermostat will stop working.
⚠️ Attention: The capillary tube is very thin and sensitive to deformation. Do not bend it at an acute angle and do not use excessive force when removing it.
After freeing the tube and disconnecting the wires, the old thermostat can be considered removed. Check the condition of the seal in the hole through which the tube passes. If it is damaged or dried out, it must be replaced to prevent warm air from entering the chamber.
Installing a new thermostat and checking
Installation of a new device is carried out in the reverse order. Insert the capillary tube into the hole to the same depth it was immersed in the old sensor. This is important for correct temperature reading. Secure the thermostat housing in its original place with screws.
Connect the wires strictly according to the photograph or diagram taken earlier. Make sure the contacts are tight and not loose. If there are oxides on the wires, clean them before connecting. Put on plastic covers and decorative elements.
What to do if the new thermostat does not fit the length of the tube?
If the tube of the new sensor is longer, it can be carefully rolled into a ring and secured with a clamp inside the case or behind the back wall without bending it. The main thing is not to shorten the tube or break its seal.
After assembly, plug in the refrigerator. Let it run for several hours without loading food. Check if the compressor turns off when the desired temperature is reached. The adjustment may take some time, as the system needs to stabilize.
If the refrigerator started working normally, turning on and off cyclically, the repair can be considered successful. If the problem persists, perhaps the fault lies in another unit, and a more in-depth diagnosis is required.
Frequent errors when replacing a thermostat
One of the common errors is incorrect installation of the capillary tube. If it is not fully inserted into the socket or is in poor contact with the evaporator, the sensor will “lie”, showing the wrong temperature. This will lead to incorrect operation of the refrigerator.
Also, users often forget to check the tightness of the connection between the tube and the body. Warm air will enter the chamber through a leaky hole, which will cause ice formation and increased energy consumption. Always check the condition of the seals.
- ❌ Ignoring safety rules when working with electricity.
- ❌ Using non-original spare parts of questionable quality.
- ❌ Rough handling of the capillary tube, leading to its damage.
- ❌ Lack of checking the operation of the system after assembly.
Do not try to repair the thermostat itself if it is dismountable. At home, it is impossible to re-pump the sensitive gas and calibrate the device. It is cheaper and more reliable to buy a new part than to experiment with restoring an old one.
Thermostat compatibility table
When choosing a replacement, it is important to take into account not only the brand, but also the technical characteristics. Below is a table of correspondence between popular models of thermostats for refrigerators Atlant.
| Original | Analog | Note |
|---|---|---|
| TAM-112 | K59-L1102 | For single-chamber |
| TAM-133 | K59-L1275 | For two-chamber |
| TAM-145 | K50-L1950 | With defrost button |
Use this table as a guide, but always check the markings on your device. Manufacturers can make changes to the design, and visual similarity does not always guarantee full compatibility.
Is it possible to temporarily operate a refrigerator without a thermostat?
Theoretically, you can close the contacts so that the compressor runs constantly, but this is highly not recommended. The refrigerator will freeze without stopping, which will lead to food spoilage and possible freezing of the system. This is an emergency mode for diagnostic purposes only.
Why does the new thermostat click, but the refrigerator does not turn on?
This may indicate a malfunction of the compressor start relay or the motor itself. The thermostat sends a signal properly, but the actuator does not respond. The compressor power supply circuit needs to be checked.
How can you tell if the capillary tube is damaged?
If a hissing sound is heard from the tube or a specific smell is felt, it means that the seal is broken and gas has escaped. Such a thermostat will not work and must only be replaced.
Is it necessary to defrost the refrigerator before replacing?
Yes, complete defrosting is required. Moisture can get on the electrical contacts or freeze at the connections, which will complicate work and create the risk of a short circuit.