How to replace the compressor in an Atlant refrigerator with your own hands

A compressor breakdown is one of the most serious and expensive problems faced by owners of household appliances. If your Atlant refrigerator stops freezing, hums or turns on for just a few seconds, most likely it is the motor that has failed. Replacing this unit yourself requires not only technical skills, but also special equipment, but understanding the process will help you assess the feasibility of repairs or prepare for the arrival of a technician.

In this article we will analyze in detail all stages of the work: from diagnosing the malfunction to the final check of the system's tightness. You will learn how to choose the right compressor for your model, what tools are required and how to avoid common mistakes when soldering tubes. Remember that breaking the tightness of the circuit during soldering is the most common cause of repeated breakdowntherefore, you need to treat this stage with the utmost care.

Before taking active steps, you need to make sure that the problem lies in the heart of the refrigerator, and not in the thermostat or start relay. Often, users spend money on a new unit when it was enough to replace a small part. Let's figure out how to distinguish failure motor compressor from other faults.

Diagnostics of compressor malfunction

The first sign that Atlant compressor requires replacement is lack of cold when the fan is running (if the model has one). However, a more accurate indicator is the nature of the motor. If when you plug in you hear a click, the motor hums for a couple of seconds and then the shutdown click is heard again - this is a classic symptom. In 80% of cases, this means that starting relay trying to start a jammed or burned out engine, but the protection current opens the circuit.

It is also worth paying attention to the temperature of the case. If the motor-compressor runs constantly without shutting down, but does not create enough cold, there may be a loss of valve group performance. You can check this by placing your palm on the condenser (grid at the back): it should be warm evenly. If only the area near the motor is heated, and then the pipe is cold - compressor does not pump freon.

• 🔊 A loud knock or metallic clanging sound when starting indicates mechanical destruction of the internal components.
• 🔥 Strong heating of the motor housing (it is impossible to hold your hand for more than 3 seconds) indicates an interturn short circuit.
• ❄️ Lack of cooling in both chambers while the engine is running indicates a loss of compression.
• ⚡ Triggering of automatic devices or knocking out plugs when the refrigerator is turned on is a sign of a short circuit in windings.

⚠️ Attention: Before any diagnostics, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply! Wiring in old houses may not be able to withstand the starting currents of a faulty motor, which will lead to a fire.

To finally confirm the diagnosis, professionals use a multimeter. It is necessary to “ring” the windings for breaks or short circuits. The resistance between the contacts must be within certain limits (usually from 10 to 30 Ohms for different windings). If the device shows infinity or zero - electric motor is faulty and must be replaced.

Selection of a new compressor for the Atlant refrigerator

Selection of a new spare part is a critical stage on which the durability of the repair depends. Refrigerators Atlant are equipped with various models of compressors, most often produced by the Atlant plant itself, as well as Danfoss (Secop) or Embraco. The main selection rule: the new unit must be a complete replacement for the old one in terms of cooling capacity and type of refrigerant.

Pay attention to the type of freon for which the system is designed. In older models it was used R12, in newer ones - R134a, and in modern ones - R600a. Compressors for different types of freon are structurally different (especially the oil and the size of the pipes), so they cannot be swapped without completely reworking the system, which is impossible at home.

When purchasing, pay attention to the following parameters:

• 📏 Overall dimensions and distance between the mounting legs (must match or be adaptable).
• 💨 Diameter of suction, discharge and filling tubes (important for soldering).
• 🔌 Location and type of starting relay (may be required replacement together with the motor).
• 🏷️ Availability of LBP (Low Back Pressure) marking - this type is needed for household refrigerators.

The question often arises: is it possible to install a more powerful compressor? Theoretically, yes, but this will lead to incorrect operation of the thermostat and possible freezing of the evaporator. It is best to look for an original analogue or a certified substitute with identical cooling capacity in watts (W) or BTU.

⚠️ Attention: Compressors running on R600a freon (isobutane) have a smaller cylinder volume and are charged with a special oil. Using the wrong oil when replacing can lead to an explosive mixture in the system.

Required tools and materials

Replacement motor compressor is not just a mechanical job of unscrewing bolts. You will need access to an open flame and specialized tools for working with copper tubing. Without a vacuum pump and a pressure gauge station, it will not be possible to do the job efficiently, since the system must be absolutely dry and free of air.

The main list of equipment includes a gas burner (propane-butane or oxygen-acetylene), a pipe cutter, pliers and a set of keys. Soldering requires solder (usually PSr40 or PSr45) and flux. It is important to use silver solder for refrigeration systems, as it withstands vibrations and temperature changes better than ordinary tin.

You will also need:

• 🛠️ Vacuum pump (to remove moisture and air from the circuit).
• 📊 Gauge manifold (for pressure control when refueling).
• 🧪 Cylinder with freon of the appropriate brand (R134a or R600a).
• 🔥 Gas burner with a cylinder and solder.
• 🧹 Nitrogen (preferably for purging the system, but you can do without it in a simplified option).

Is it possible to do without a vacuum pump?

Theoretically, some “masters” try to purge the system with freon itself several times. However, this does not remove moisture from the oil and pipes. The remaining moisture will turn into ice in the capillary tube and the refrigerator will stop freezing after a week. Evacuation is a mandatory step!

Don't forget to prepare a container of water to check the tightness and a soap solution. If you are changing a compressor using R600a freon, make sure that the room has good ventilation and there are no open sources of fire other than the burner, since this gas is explosive.

Dismantling the old compressor

The process begins with preparing the workplace. Move the refrigerator aside, provide access to the back wall and good lighting. The first step is to bleed off the remaining freon. To do this, cut the thickest tube (filter drier or capillary) and let the gas escape. If there is freon left in the system, it will come out with a characteristic whistle.

Next you need to unsolder the tubes. Heat the junction of the copper discharge tube and the compressor housing with a torch. Once the solder has melted, carefully remove the tube with pliers. Do the same with the suction tube. Be careful not to damage the capillary tube, which is very thin and fragile.

After releasing the tubes, turn off the electrical part. Remove the plastic casing, disconnect the wires from the starting and protective relay. Typically, relays are simply slipped onto the contacts, but can be secured with a bracket. Unscrew the bolts securing the compressor to the refrigerator frame.

When removing the old unit, be careful: oil may remain in it. Tilt it so that the oil does not spill onto the floor and dispose of it immediately. An old compressor is often used as a source of spare parts (relays, bolts, bushings), but it is better to scrap the housing itself.

⚠️ Attention: When soldering the tubes, heat them evenly. Overheating can cause the varnish inside the copper tubes to burn, contaminating the system with combustion products. This is a common mistake for beginners.

Installation and soldering of a new unit

Installation of a new one compressor begins with preparing the seat. Check the rubber shock absorbers on the frame. If they dry out or lose elasticity, be sure to replace them, otherwise the new motor will quickly fail from vibration. Secure the new unit to the frame, but do not tighten the bolts “tightly” yet, so that you can position it when soldering.

The most critical stage is soldering. It is necessary to install a new filter-drieron the suction tube of the new compressor. An old filter should absolutely not be used, since its sorbent is already saturated with moisture and will not be able to clean freon. The filter is soldered with one end to the compressor, the other to the condenser.

The soldering technology looks like this:

1. Insert a copper tube into the socket of the compressor to a depth of 10-15 mm.
2. Heat the joint with a torch to a dark cherry color.
3. Touch the joint with solder - it should flow into the gap itself under the action of capillary effect.
4. Let it cool naturally without blowing on the joint.

After soldering all connections (suction, discharge, filter), it is necessary to check the system for tightness with nitrogen. If nitrogen is not available, dry air can be used, but this is less reliable. The pressure is checked with a pressure gauge. If the pressure is maintained for 30 minutes, you can proceed to vacuuming.

Evacuation and refilling with freon

Vacuuming is the process of removing air and moisture from the circuit. Connect the vacuum pump to the filler fitting (usually the exposed end of the copper tubing that you haven't soldered yet). Turn on the pump and keep the system under vacuum for at least 30-40 minutes. This is critical to removing moisture, which freezes at low temperatures and clogs the system.

After vacuuming, close the pump valve, turn it off and let it sit for 10 minutes. If the pressure gauge needle does not move, the tightness is excellent. Now you can seal the filling tube, leaving a small tail for connecting the hose with freon, or immediately proceed to filling through the valve.

Refilling is carried out strictly according to the weight indicated on the refrigerator label (usually 120-150 grams). The use of cylinders with built-in scales or electronic scales is mandatory. Refilling or underfilling freon will lead to incorrect operation.

Comparison of parameters for different types of freon:

After refueling, seal the tube completely. Turn on the refrigerator and let it run for 2-3 hours. Check the temperature in the chambers and make sure that the condenser is heated evenly, and the evaporator is covered with frost (or cold) over the entire area.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to replace an Atlant compressor with a compressor from another brand?

Yes, it is possible if the installation dimensions, power and type of refrigerant are the same. Danfoss or Embraco are often used instead of native ones. The main thing is to choose the right starting relay, since it may differ in characteristics.

How much does it cost to replace a compressor in a service?

The cost consists of the price of the spare part (from 3,000 to 7,000 rubles) and the work of the technician (from 2,500 to 5,000 rubles). The total amount is often 60-70% of the cost of a new refrigerator, which makes self-repair financially justifiable if you have the skills.

Is it necessary to flush the system when replacing a compressor?

If the old compressor burns out and throws black oil into the system, flushing (or replacing the condenser) is mandatory. Otherwise, dirt will clog the capillary tube. If the compressor simply stops pumping without burning, it is enough to replace the filter drier.

Why does the refrigerator not freeze after replacing the compressor?

There may be three reasons: poor-quality soldering (freon leakage), insufficient evacuation (air lock or moisture) or incorrect refilling of refrigerant. It is also worth checking whether the capillary tube is not pinched during soldering.