The situation when the refrigerator Atlant stops freezing in the upper compartment, is one of the most common complaints of owners of two-chamber models. Users often notice that food in the freezer begins to thaw, ice turns to water, or the temperature simply rises above acceptable values, although the compressor may be running continuously. This is a critical condition that requires immediate diagnosis, since long-term storage of products at above-zero temperatures will lead to their spoilage.
The reasons for this behavior of the equipment can vary from a banal overload of the evaporator with ice to serious mechanical damage to the refrigerant circulation system. Unlike No Frost systems, where air is pumped by a fan, in drip models Atlant the cold is transmitted through the walls or a separate evaporator, and disruption of this process immediately affects the climate inside the chambers. Main difficulty the fact is that it is almost impossible to visually determine the location of the break in the refrigeration chain without special equipment and knowledge of the unit's design.
In this material we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions when a malfunction is detected. You will learn how to distinguish a software failure from a physical breakdown, what sounds and indicators you should pay attention to first, and in what cases do-it-yourself repair is still possible, and when you need to call a technician with stationary equipment. Correct initial diagnostics will help save time and avoid unnecessary expenses on unnecessary spare parts.
Primary diagnostics and external signs of malfunction
Before disassembling the unit or looking for tools, it is necessary to conduct a thorough visual inspection and analysis of the operation of the device. Users often mistakenly believe that the problem lies in the motor, when in fact the door seal is broken or the thermostat settings are off. If the refrigerator Atlant does not freeze the upper chamber, first check the tightness of the rubber seals. Even a microscopic gap leads to a constant influx of warm, moist air, which condenses and disables the system.
Pay attention to the nature of the compressor operation. If it hums continuously without turning off for hours, this indicates that the system is trying to compensate for the loss of cold, but cannot cope with the load. In such a situation, heat exchange is broken, and the refrigerant does not have time to cool in the condenser or does not reach the evaporator in the required volume. If the motor turns on for a few seconds, makes a clicking sound and turns off, this is a sign of problems with the starting relay or the compressor itself.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a hissing or whistling sound when the unit is operating, this may indicate a freon leak through a microcrack in the circuit. Operating in this mode is ineffective and can lead to moisture getting inside the system, which will cause corrosion.
It is also worth checking the indicators on the control panel if your model Atlant is equipped with electronics. The flashing of the "Alarm" light or the corresponding snowflake symbol often signals that the temperature threshold has been exceeded. However, you should not blindly trust electronics - sometimes the temperature sensor can give false readings, although there is physically cold in the chamber. Therefore, always double-check the condition of the products and the presence of frost on the walls.
Problems with the defrosting system in No Frost models
In two-chamber refrigerators Atlant with the No Frost system, the upper chamber (freezing) is cooled by cold air, which is pumped fan from the evaporator hidden behind the rear wall. If this process is disrupted, the cold stops flowing into the chamber. The most common reason is fouling of the evaporator with ice due to a malfunction of the defrost system. The heating element of the heater, the defrost sensor or the timer (controller) may fail, as a result of which the ice does not melt, but grows, blocking the air circulation channels.
To diagnose this problem, it is necessary to defrost the refrigerator completely, leaving it turned off for at least 24 hours (preferably two days). If after defrosting the unit worked normally and began to freeze, but after 1-2 weeks the problem recurred, the problem is guaranteed in the defrosting system. During this period, the ice will again clog the drainage hole or air ducts, and the fan Atlant will not be able to drive air through the “ice plug”.
How to check the defrost heating element?
To check the heating element you will need a multimeter. It is necessary to test the heater coil for resistance. If the device shows a break (infinity), it means that the heating element has burned out and requires replacement. Normal resistance varies between 200-400 Ohms depending on the power of the model.
Another element that often fails is the defrost sensor. It controls the temperature of the evaporator and gives a command to turn on the heating element. If the sensor is stuck in the cold position, the heater will never turn on. It is also worth checking a fan: if its blades are frozen to the ice or the motor is burned out, the air circulation will stop, even if the evaporator is ice cold.
- 🧊 An increase in "coat" on the back wall of the freezer indicates problems with water drainage or the operation of the heating element.
- 🔇 The absence of fan sound when the compressor is running indicates its breakdown or blockage by ice.
- 🌡️ Difference temperatures in different corners of the chamber indicates a violation of the circulation of air flows inside the box.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator Atlant, creating pressure for the circulation of the refrigerant. If the upper chamber does not freeze, but the lower chamber barely works or does not work at all, the compressor may have lost its performance. This is called “interturn short circuit” of the windings or wear of the piston group. In this case, the motor may hum, but not create enough pressure to boil freon in the evaporator of the freezer, which, as a rule, is located further from the compressor in the circulation circuit.
Often the culprit of the problem is the start relay. This device protects the motor and helps it start. If the relay is faulty, the compressor may hum for a few seconds, then click and shut down due to thermal protection. In some cases, the relay simply does not switch the windings, and the motor does not start at all, although electricity is supplied to it. Replacing the relay is a simple operation that you can perform yourself by selecting an analogue for a specific series Atlant.
⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the start relay the situation has not changed and the compressor continues to hum and switches off after 10-20 seconds, there is a high probability of the compressor jamming or a serious drop in compression. Further attempts to start may finally finish off the engine.
To check the compressor, professionals use a pressure manifold, measuring the outlet pressure. At home, you can only carefully (observe safety precautions!) check whether there is a weak gas pressure coming from the bitten off tube when turned on for a short time, but it is better not to risk it and limit yourself to listening and checking the starting current. If the compressor is hot, but the refrigerator tubes remain cold, this is a bad sign.
☑️ Checking the compressor
Refrigerant leak and clogged capillary tube
These two problems often go hand in hand or have similar symptoms. If the system Atlant has a freon leak (due to corrosion or mechanical damage), the refrigerant becomes insufficient to create cold in the evaporator of the upper chamber. Usually, when there is a leak, it is the freezer that first stops freezing, since it is at the end of the circulation cycle, and then the temperature rises in the refrigerator compartment. Oil may appear on the tubes - a sure sign of a leak.
A clogged capillary tube is a blockage of the thin channel through which freon enters the evaporator with debris or congealed oil. The symptoms are similar: the compressor is running, the condenser (grid at the back) is hot, and the evaporator (inside the chamber) is only partially cold or warm. When clogged, you can often hear gurgling or periodic hissing, which should not be present in a normally operating refrigerator.
Diagnosis of these malfunctions requires evacuation of the system and charging with new freon. It is impossible to fix a leak or break through a blockage on your own without a vacuum pump, freon scales and a burner. Attempts to “replenish” the system with refrigerant without eliminating the cause of the leak will only give a temporary effect for a couple of weeks, after which the problem will return, and the compressor may burn out due to working with the wrong oil or moisture in the system.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Characteristic sign | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compressor does not turn on | Faulty relay or thermostat | Silence or single click | Low |
| Humming and turning off | The compressor or relay is jammed | Humming for 5-10 seconds, then clicking | Medium/High |
| Works without stopping | Freon leak or blockage | Warm condenser, no cold | High (needs a technician) |
| Ice only at the entrance of the tubes | Clogged capillary system | Swelling of tubes, hissing | High |
Failures in electronics and thermoregulation
In modern models Atlant with electronic control, the control module is responsible for the temperature. If the board is “buggy”, it may not send a signal to turn on the compressor or fan, even if the sensors record a high temperature. Sometimes the problem is solved by a simple reboot: unplugging the refrigerator for 15-20 minutes. This allows you to reset errors in the controller's memory.
In models with mechanical control (thermostat), the problem may be in the thermostat itself. If the thermostat bellows has lost its seal or the contacts are burnt, the circuit does not close. You can check this by closing the thermostat contacts directly (bypassing it). If the refrigerator is working, the thermostat needs to be replaced. It is important to choose an analogue with the same temperature parameters, otherwise the operating mode will be disrupted.
Also worth mentioning about temperature sensors. In two-chamber systems there may be several of them: one in the refrigerator compartment, one in the freezer. If the upper chamber sensor “lies” and shows that it is -20°C, although in fact it is 0°C, the compressor will not turn on. Replacing the sensor usually requires access to the inner lining of the chamber.
Action algorithm: when to call a technician?
Do-it-yourself refrigerator repair Atlant is justified only in case of simple malfunctions: replacing a light bulb, thermostat, start relay or complete defrosting. Everything related to a violation of the tightness of the circuit (replacing the compressor, eliminating leaks, clearing blockages, replacing the filter-drier) requires specialized tools and soldering skills.
If you determine that the problem is a freon leak or a blockage, calling a technician is the only right solution. The specialist will perform a nitrogen test to find the leak, replace the filter-drier (mandatory when opening the circuit!), evacuate the system and charge the exact amount of refrigerant. Unprofessional refueling “by eye” will lead to rapid failure of the compressor.
⚠️ Attention: Using burners with an open flame inside a living room for soldering copper pipes is dangerous! Freon vapors upon contact with fire form toxic phosgene. The work must be carried out in a ventilated room or outdoors.
In addition, the master will give a guarantee for the work performed. When repairing complex equipment yourself, the risk of making things worse is very high. Saving on calling a specialist can cost the cost of a new refrigerator if you accidentally damage the heat exchanger sealed in the housing, or burn the compressor with improper soldering.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it does not freeze in the upper chamber?
For a short time - yes, food in the refrigerator compartment can be preserved. However, you cannot keep it turned on for a long time if there is a malfunction: the compressor will work against wear and tear, trying to gain temperature, which will lead to overheating and combustion. In addition, bacteria will begin to multiply in the freezer.
How long should defrosting last to check the No Frost system?
The minimum time for complete defrosting for diagnostics is 24 hours. During this time, all ice will melt, including any that may have accumulated in hard-to-reach places in the air ducts and under the evaporator. Insufficient defrosting time (for example, 5-6 hours) will not give an accurate result.
Why did the refrigerator start working after defrosting, but after a week it stopped again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrosting system (heating element, sensor, timer). Ice accumulated again and blocked the channels. Diagnosis and replacement of a faulty element of the defrost system is required.
What kind of freon is used in Atlant refrigerators?
Older models used R12 (freon), newer ones used R134a, and the most modern environmentally friendly models used R600a (isobutane). The type of refrigerant is indicated on a label (sticker) on the back or inside the chamber. You need to refill strictly with the type specified by the manufacturer.