The situation when Atlant refrigerator stops freezing in the upper compartment is one of the most common complaints from the owners of this equipment. Users often notice that food in the freezer is covered with an ice crust, and in the main chamber the temperature rises to room temperature, which creates a risk of food spoilage. This is a classic symptom of a refrigerant circulation disorder or a failure in the control system.
Many begin to panic, believing that the equipment must be disposed of, but in most cases the problem is solved by replacing a specific part or proper defrosting. Double-chamber models with one compressor they have a common cooling system, and A failure in one unit instantly affects the operation of the entire unit. Understanding the physical processes occurring inside the case will help you quickly determine the nature of the breakdown.
Before calling a technician, it is necessary to carry out an initial diagnosis, which often eliminates simple operating errors. If the compressor operates continuously without stopping, but there is no cold, this almost always indicates a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube. In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will help you save time and money.
Checking the operating mode and settings of the thermostat
First of all, you should make sure that the problem does not lie in simple inattention or accidental changes in settings. Modern models Atlant equipped with electronic controls, where a power failure could reset the parameters to factory settings. Check if the “Vacation” or “Eco” mode is activated, in which the temperature in the main chamber may increase to save energy.
If you have a mechanical control, pay attention to the position of the thermostat knob. Sometimes it accidentally moves to the “0” or “1” position, which is not enough for high-quality freezing of food in the upper chamber. The optimal position is considered to be “3” or “4”, in which compressor operates in normal cyclic mode.
It is also worth checking the tightness of the doors. If the rubber seal is worn out or the door is warped, warm air will constantly flow in and the system will not be able to compensate for heat loss. This is especially true for the upper compartment, where warm air rises naturally.
Do not forget that overloading the chamber with products also disrupts the circulation of air flows. If you have just loaded a large amount of warm food, it may take several hours for the system to reach the set mode. In such cases temperature sensor may incorrectly read data due to local heat spots.
Symptoms and consequences of refrigerant leak
The most common reason for the lack of cold in the upper chamber when the compressor is running is a freon leak. A microscopic fistula could form in the circulation system, through which the gas gradually evaporates. When the amount of freon falls below a critical level, it is not enough for the full cooling cycle, and the evaporator of the upper chamber suffers first. refrigerant A microscopic fistula could form, through which the gas gradually evaporates. When the amount of freon drops below a critical level, it is not enough for a full cooling cycle, and the evaporator of the upper chamber is the first to suffer.
⚠️ Attention: Freon is odorless and colorless, so it is impossible to detect a leak by smell. If you notice oily spots under the refrigerator or on the rear grille, this is a sure sign of depressurization of the circuit.
You can diagnose a leak by the nature of the motor operation. If there is a shortage of refrigerant, the compressor tries to compensate for the lack of cold and works without interruption, becoming very hot. However, even with such intense work, the temperature in the upper compartment remains positive. In some cases, you can hear hissing or gurgling, which indicates the release of gas.
Repair in this case requires professional intervention. The technician must find the leak, solder it and fill the system with new freon. It is difficult to fix it yourself depressurization as it requires specialized equipment for evacuation and filling.
It is worth noting that in models with a foamed evaporator (the circuit is built into the walls of the housing), leakage often occurs inside the wall. This is a more complex case, requiring the installation of an external evaporator (“crying”) inside the chamber, which is a temporary but effective solution.
Clogged capillary tube: signs and solution
The capillary tube is a narrow channel through which liquid freon enters the evaporator. Over time, oil oxidation products, moisture or technical debris can accumulate in the system, which leads to the formation of a blockage. If the tube is clogged, the refrigerant cannot circulate and cooling of the upper chamber stops.
A characteristic sign of a blockage is the operation of the compressor with periodic stops or a characteristic hum, while the condenser (grid at the back) remains cold or warm only in the lower part. The pressure in the system drops and thermostat does not receive a signal that the desired temperature has been reached, forcing the motor to work again and again.
Is it possible to clean the tube yourself?
Cleaning the capillary tube on your own at home is almost impossible and dangerous. Requires disassembly of the system, purging with nitrogen under high pressure and subsequent evacuation. An attempt to clean the tube with wire can lead to its rupture and complete loss of the refrigerator.
To eliminate this malfunction, technicians use the method of purging the system with nitrogen. If the blockage can be broken through, the system is evacuated and charged with freon. In complex cases, when the blockage is caused by moisture and the formation of an ice plug, it may be necessary to replace the filter-drier, which absorbs excess moisture from the circuit.
It is important to understand that the blockage is often a consequence of incorrect previous repairs or prolonged downtime of equipment. If the refrigerator was turned off for a long time, the oil could thicken and create a plug in a narrow channel.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator, and its malfunction directly affects the ability to freeze. However, if only the upper chamber does not freeze, and the lower chamber works normally, the problem rarely lies in the complete inoperability of the compressor. Most often we are talking about a loss of performance or “freezing” of the piston group.
The starting relay is responsible for starting the engine. If it fails, the compressor may hum, click, but not start, or start for a split second and stall. In this case, heat simply is not generated, and both chambers defrost. You can check the relay visually: the presence of burning, melting or a characteristic odor indicates the need for replacement.
There is also the concept of “turn-to-turn short circuit” of the compressor windings. In this case, the engine hums louder than usual, gets very hot and is turned off by a thermal protector. The performance of such a unit drops, and it is not able to “punch” freon through the system, which is why the upper chamber stops cooling.
☑️ Compressor diagnostics
Replacing a compressor is an expensive repair, which is often not economically feasible for older models. In such cases, it is easier to purchase a new refrigerator than to change the “heart” of the unit, the cost of which can be up to 50% of the price of new equipment.
Problems with the No Frost system and sensors
In refrigerators Atlant with a system No Frost (or partial No Frost) for Fans and special dampers ensure the circulation of cold air. If the fan located in the freezer stops working, cold air simply does not enter the upper compartment.
A frequent reason for the fan stopping is the formation of ice slush on the blades. This occurs if the automatic defrosting system has failed. The evaporator heating element, defrost timer or defrost sensor may have failed, causing the evaporator to become covered with ice and block the air channel.
| No Frost system part | Function | Symptom of breakdown | Solution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Evaporator heating element | Heating ice for defrosting | Ice build-up, no cold at the top | Replacing the heating element |
| Defrosting sensor | Evaporator temperature control | Defrosting does not turn on or heats constantly | Replacing the sensor |
| Timer/Module | Switching modes | The refrigerator does not come out of defrost | Electronics repair |
| Fan | Air circulation | Noise or silence, no airflow | Defrosting or replacement |
For diagnostics, you need to remove the back panel in the freezer and check the integrity of the heating element multimeter. It is also worth inspecting the sensors for oxidation of the contacts. Often, simply defrosting the refrigerator for 24 hours helps eliminate the ice jam and restore the fan operation.
⚠️ Attention: When checking electrical components, be sure to unplug the refrigerator! Working with live electrical wiring is life-threatening.
When you need to call a technician: critical breakdowns
There are a number of situations when self-repair is not only useless, but also dangerous. If you notice that the refrigerator body is electrifying, you hear a strong smell of burnt wiring, or you see an open spark, immediately unplug the appliance from the outlet. Such symptoms indicate serious problems with electrical wiring or insulation.
Also, a technician is needed if it is necessary to replace the compressor or search for leaks in the foamed part of the housing. These works require licensed equipment, cylinders with freon, nitrogen and tools for soldering copper pipes. Any mistake during soldering can lead to an explosion of the refrigerant upon contact with air.
Do not forget about the warranty. If your refrigerator is less than 3 years old, any DIY repair will void the warranty. In this case, the only correct solution would be to contact an authorized service center Atlant.
A qualified specialist will conduct a full diagnostic, including checking the pressure in the system and the tightness of the circuit. Only after accurately determining the cause of the breakdown can a decision be made to repair or replace the unit.
Prevention and proper care of equipment
To avoid problems with cooling the upper chamber in the future, you must follow the operating rules. Regularly, at least once every six months, completely defrost the refrigerator, even if it is equipped with a No Frost system. This will help remove hidden ice build-up and extend the life of the compressor.
Keep the condenser grill at the back of the refrigerator clean. Dust and pet hair sticking to the radiator impair heat transfer. The compressor is forced to work longer and harder, which leads to overheating and premature wear. You can clean the grille with a vacuum cleaner or a soft brush.
Do not place hot foods in the chamber and do not overload the refrigerator with food. Disruption of air flow inside the chamber is one of the hidden reasons for uneven cooling. There should be a gap between the food and the back wall for air circulation.
Also pay attention to the condition of the door seals. Wipe them with a soft cloth and check the tightness of the fit. If the rubber becomes hard or torn, replace it. This is a simple and inexpensive way to keep the cold inside the chamber and reduce the load on the system.
Why is it warm in the upper chamber, but everything is frozen in the lower chamber?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube. The refrigerant is not enough for a full cycle, and it only manages to cool the first section of the evaporator (usually in the freezer), not reaching the upper chamber. It is also possible for the air supply channel to freeze in No Frost models.
How long should defrosting last to restore operation?
To completely melt the ice in the hidden channels and on the evaporator, the refrigerator must be turned off with the doors open for at least 24 hours. Defrosting for 2-3 hours is often insufficient, and the problem returns after a couple of days.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it does not freeze the upper chamber?
Short-term operation is possible, but undesirable. The compressor runs idle or in overload mode, trying to reach temperature, which leads to rapid combustion. In addition, bacteria will begin to multiply in a warm chamber.
What does a flashing temperature indicator on the control panel mean?
A flashing indicator (often red) signals that the temperature in the chamber has risen above the permissible norm. This can be either a consequence of loading warm products or a sign of a technical malfunction if the mode is not restored within several hours.
Is it necessary to change the filter drier during any system repair?
Yes, for any opening of the freon circulation circuit (replacing the compressor, eliminating a leak, cleaning the blockage), the filter drier is required replacement. It is disposable and loses its properties upon contact with atmospheric air.