The situation when in the refrigerator Atlant the upper chamber stops freezing, and the lower (freezer) continues to operate as normal, this is one of the most common complaints from owners of this equipment. This behavior of the unit is often confusing: the motor seems to be humming, the lights are on, but the food in the refrigerator compartment begins to deteriorate. This is a classic symptom of a refrigerant circulation disorder or a malfunction in the temperature control system.
There can be several reasons for such an anomaly, ranging from banal defrosting to serious mechanical damage to the circuit. Unlike models with a No Frost system, where one evaporator and fan are often responsible for cooling both compartments, in dual-compressor or static models Atlant problems can be localized in a specific unit. Understanding the operating principle will help you save time on diagnostics.
In most cases, the problem lies in three main areas: freon leak, thermostat malfunction, or capillary tube blockage. It is important not to panic and check each version one by one. Self-repair is only possible if you have certain skills, but correct initial diagnostics will save you from unnecessary expenses on calling a technician for simple operations.
The principle of operation of the Atlant two-chamber refrigerator
To understand why upper chamber loses cold, you need to understand the basic circulation diagram refrigerant. In classic models, freon, compressed by a compressor, enters the condenser, where it gives off heat, and then enters the evaporator through a capillary tube. This is where the refrigerant boils and absorbs heat from the chambers. If this cycle is disrupted at any stage, the temperature stops dropping to the desired values.
In models with one compressor and one cooling circuit, cold air from the freezer is partially supplied to the refrigerator compartment. If an ice coat has formed there or the damper regulator has failed, the air flow is blocked. In two-compressor models Atlant each compartment has its own independent system, which narrows the scope of troubleshooting to the upper circuit.
The key element here is thermostat (thermostat). It monitors the temperature inside the chamber and commands the compressor to turn on or off. If the sensor “lies” and shows that there is enough cold, the compressor simply will not start, even if the food has already been defrosted. This is a common reason that is easy to overlook.
Diagnostics of freon leak: signs and symptoms
The most likely reason that the upper chamber does not freeze is refrigerant leak. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack appears in the tubes (often due to corrosion or mechanical damage during cleaning), the gas gradually evaporates. The pressure in the system drops, and there is no longer enough refrigerant to cool both compartments, starting with the less powerful upper one.
How to determine the leak yourself? Carefully inspect the inside walls of the refrigerator and freezer. If you see bulges on the side walls or rust spots on the metal part of the case, this is a warning sign. Also a sign may be a too hot condenser (grid at the back) or, conversely, a cold one if the freon has come out completely.
- ❄️ The compressor works almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but there is no success.
- ❄️ In the freezer, food begins to thaw, although previously it was frozen “to stone.”
- ❄️ The characteristic layer of frost or “snow coat” has disappeared on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment.
If you suspect a leak, further operation of the equipment is pointless and even harmful for the compressor, which is working for wear. In this case, you need to call a technician to find the leak using a leak detector, seal and fill the system with new freon.
Faults in the thermostat and temperature sensors
The thermostat is the “brain” that controls the climate inside the chamber. In refrigerators Atlant it can be mechanical (with a capillary tube and an adjustment knob) or electronic (with sensors). If the device fails, it can break the electrical circuit, and the compressor simply will not receive a signal to start. As a result, the chamber is at room temperature.
Mechanical thermostats are characterized by sticking contacts or loss of sensitivity of the capillary tube. You can check it by temporarily closing the contacts (if you have electrical skills). If after a short circuit the compressor starts working and gets cold, it means thermostat it needs to be replaced. In electronic models Atlant defrost sensors or air sensors often burn out, which leads to erroneous readings on the display.
⚠️ Attention: Before replacing the thermostat, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply! Working with live electrical components is deadly.
Often owners confuse a thermostat failure with an incorrect setting. Make sure that the regulator knob is not in the “0” or “Off” position, and in electronic models the “Vacation” or “Demo” mode is not activated, in which cooling is turned off for display purposes.
Clogged capillary tube and problems with the filter-drier
Another technical reason why the top does not freeze, is a clogged capillary tube. An ice plug may form inside the circulation system (due to moisture in the freon) or blockage with oil breakdown and oxidation products. This creates resistance, and freon cannot fully circulate throughout the refrigeration chamber circuit.
Symptoms of a blockage are often similar to a leak: the compressor works, but there is no cold. However, there is a nuance: if clogged, the compressor can operate cyclically, overheat and turn off via a thermal relay. The filter drier, which is located in front of the capillary, can also become clogged, blocking the flow of refrigerant. This requires professional purging of the system with nitrogen and replacing the filter.
It is almost impossible to remove the blockage on your own, as it requires:
- 🔧 Cut off the filter drier and capillary tube.
- 🔧 Blow out the system with high pressure nitrogen.
- 🔧 Evacuate the circuit and refill it with freon.
Why can’t you just “pierce” the tube?
Attempts to clean the capillary with a wire or needle without vacuuming will lead to moisture and air getting into the system. This is guaranteed to cause the formation of a new ice plug in a couple of days, and the repair will have to be done again, but with the replacement of the compressor.
Comparative table of faults
For ease of diagnosis, we will collect the main symptoms in a single table. This will help you quickly navigate the nature of your breakdown Atlanta and understand whether it is worth calling a technician or you can try to solve the problem yourself.
| Malfunction | Compressor behavior | Condition freezers | State of the refrigerator compartment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Freon leakage | Works for a long time without turning off | Freezes slightly or defrosts | Plus temperature, no frost |
| Thermostat is faulty | Does not turn on at all | Temperature is room temperature | Temperature is room temperature |
| Capillary clogged | Works jerkily, overheats | Freezes normally or slightly | Does not freeze, may be warm |
| Problem with the damper (No Frost) | Works normally | Freezes perfectly | Warm, fan does not blow |
When analyzing the table, pay attention to the behavior of the motor. If it is silent, look for an electrical problem (thermostat, start relay). If it hums non-stop, the problem is in the “physics” of the process (leakage, blockage). This logical chain allows you to weed out half of the false diagnoses.
No Frost system problems: fan and timer
If your Atlant equipped with a system No Frost or “Full No Frost”, then the lack of cold in the upper compartment when the freezer is running often indicates air circulation problem. In such models, the evaporator is located in the freezer, and cold is pumped into the refrigerator by a fan through special channels.
The first thing to check is whether the air supply channel is clogged with ice. If the defrost system (heating element, timer, defrost sensor) does not work correctly, a “fur coat” grows on the evaporator, which blocks the channels. The fan may be humming, but the air is simply not getting through. The fan itself or the damper that regulates the flow may also fail.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to pick the ice in the channels with sharp objects! You may damage the plastic air ducts or touch the fan wiring, which will aggravate the breakdown.
To defrost the No Frost system, you will need to completely unplug the refrigerator for at least 24 hours. This is the only way the ice in the hidden cavities will have time to melt. If, after complete defrosting, the refrigerator started working normally, and a week later the problem returned, it means that one of the elements of the defrosting system is faulty (most often the timer or heating element). products
☑️ Actions if you suspect ice in the canals
When you need to call a professional technician
Despite the desire to save money, there are situations when do-it-yourself repair is impractical or dangerous. If the diagnostics indicated a freon leak, a clogged capillary, or a compressor breakdown, specialized equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station, leak detector) is indispensable. Handicraft methods of refueling “by eye” will lead to rapid breakdown of an expensive unit.
It is also worth contacting specialists if you are not confident in your knowledge of electrical engineering. Replacing a start relay, thermostat or heating element requires precision. An incorrectly selected analog spare part for Atlanta (and they are different for different series) can lead to a short circuit or incorrect temperature conditions.
In addition, professional repairs provide a guarantee. If the technician refilled the freon and a month later the problem reappeared, he is obliged to fix it free of charge. When repairing yourself, all risks fall on your shoulders. Weigh the cost of spare parts and your time against the price of qualified service.
Prevention and proper operation
To avoid a situation where upper chamber stops freezing, it is important to follow the operating rules. Do not place hot food in the refrigerator - this puts extra strain on the compressor and encourages the formation of condensation, which can cause corrosion. Regular defrosting (for drip systems) at least once a year prolongs the life of the unit.
Make sure the integrity of the rubber seals on the doors. If the rubber has dried out or become dirty, warm air enters the chamber and the refrigerator operates in increased mode, which leads to freezing and breakdowns. Wipe the seals with a soft cloth and check their fit.
- 🧹 Regularly wash the drainage hole in the back wall of the refrigerator compartment to prevent water from stagnating.
- 🧹 Do not move the refrigerator close to the wall, leave a gap for condenser ventilation.
- 🧹 Avoid mechanical shocks to the body, especially in areas where tubes pass.
Following these simple recommendations will allow your Atlanta to serve for many years without serious damage. Remember that prevention is always cheaper than major repairs or buying new equipment.
Why does the refrigerator take a long time to reach temperature after defrosting?
After complete defrosting (especially if it lasted 24 hours), the walls of the refrigerator and the food warmed up to room temperature. The compressor takes time (from 2 to 5 hours) to freeze the entire volume again. Do not load the chamber with food immediately and do not open the doors during the first hours of operation.
Is it possible to use the Atlant refrigerator if the top does not freeze, but the bottom freezes?
For a short time - yes, the food in the freezer will be preserved. However, you cannot store perishable food in the top compartment. Long-term operation in this mode (especially if there is a leak) will lead to overheating and combustion of the compressor, since it will work without stopping.
What kind of freon is used in Atlant refrigerators?
Depending on the year of manufacture and model, R134a (tetrafluoroethane) or the more modern R600a (isobutane) can be used in Atlant refrigerators. R600a is explosive, so its refilling and replacement can only be done in a well-ventilated area and in compliance with safety precautions.
What to do if the thermostat clicks, but the compressor does not start?
A clicking thermostat indicates that it is sending a signal, but the start relay or the compressor itself does not respond. The starting relay (black box on the compressor) often fails. You can replace it yourself by selecting an analogue according to the markings, but it is better to check the motor windings for inter-turn short circuits.