Owners of Belarusian brand equipment are often faced with a situation where the food in the refrigerator compartment is fresh, but everything in the freezer compartment has begun to defrost. Two-compressor system it is designed in such a way that a separate unit is responsible for each circuit, which should theoretically eliminate cross-problems. However, in practice, the breakdown of one unit can be caused by external factors or hidden electronic defects.
Before calling a technician, it is necessary to conduct an initial diagnosis to understand the scale of the disaster. Often the reason is not the failure of expensive components, but a banal violation of operating rules or malfunction thermostat. Ignoring the first signs of a malfunction can lead to a complete loss of food supplies and expensive repairs.
In this article we will analyze in detail the main reasons for freezer failure, consider troubleshooting algorithms and explain when independent repair is impossible. Understanding the operating principles of refrigerant and the compressor will help you quickly navigate the situation and make the right decision.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear strange sounds or smell something burning, immediately disconnect the device from the power supply. Further operation may be dangerous.
1. Problems with the thermostat and temperature sensors
The most common reason that the freezer has stopped working is the failure of the thermostat. In two-compressor models Atlant this element is responsible for turning the freezer motor on and off. If the contacts inside the regulator are oxidized or stuck, the compressor simply does not receive a signal to start. It is difficult to visually determine this breakdown, since externally the device may appear to be in good working order.
Modern models are equipped with electronic control, where instead of a mechanical regulator there are temperature sensors (thermistors). They transmit data to the control module. If the sensor “lies” and shows that the temperature is normal, although there is already a thaw there, the motor will not turn on. Replacing such an element requires disassembling the internal panel and using a multimeter to check the resistance.
- 🔍 Mechanical thermostat: checked by checking the contacts when the temperature of the sensitive tube changes.
- ❄️ Electronic sensor: resistance is measured, which should change depending on the heating or cooling.
- ⚙️ Control module: may not supply voltage to the compressor even if the sensor is working.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing the thermostat, it is important to install the capillary tube in exactly the same way as the factory one was installed. Displacement of the tube will lead to incorrect operation.
Diagnostics of the thermostat is the first step that you can do yourself if you have basic skills in working with tools. However, if after replacement the problem persists, you should look for the cause deeper, in the refrigerant circulation system.
2. Freon leakage and circuit leakage
If the compressor operates continuously, hums, but there is no cold, there is a high probability of leakage refrigerant. In dual-circuit systems Atlant a foamed evaporator is often used, hidden in the walls of the housing. If the internal circuit is damaged, freon comes out and the pressure in the system drops. The motor tries to compensate for the lack of cold by working without stopping, which quickly leads to its overheating and failure.
It is almost impossible to determine a leak visually, since the gas is colorless and odorless. Craftsmen use leak detectors or the nitrogen pressure testing method. If a hole has formed in the system, air and moisture enter there, which causes the formation of ice plugs in the capillary tube. This phenomenon completely blocks the circulation of the substance.
Repair in the event of a leak from the foamed part of the housing is often considered not economically feasible. Instead of a hidden evaporator, the masters suggest installing an external crying evaporator (aluminum plate) inside the chamber. This returns the refrigerator to operability, but requires professional intervention and evacuation of the system.
Why can’t you just add freon?
Simply adding freon without finding and eliminating the leak is a temporary measure. The gas will escape through the hole again, and the compressor will burn out due to wear and tear. In addition, moisture may remain in the system, which will turn into ice and clog the capillary.
3. Malfunction of the freezer compressor
In two-compressor models, a separate unit is responsible for the freezer. If you hear a relay click, an attempt to start, and then silence or a hum that ends abruptly, there is a problem. It may jam due to exhaustion, overheating, or liquid freon entering the cylinder (water hammer). compressor. It may jam due to exhaustion, overheating, or liquid freon entering the cylinder (water hammer).
The start-protection relay also often fails. This is a small plastic element that fits over the motor contacts. Inside it there is a coil or positioner, which ensures the start of the windings. If the relay is burned out, the compressor physically cannot start, although electricity is supplied to it. Replacing the relay is the simplest and cheapest repair procedure.
Symptoms of motor malfunction:
- 🔊 Loud metallic knocking or clanging when trying to start.
- 🔥 Strong heating of the compressor housing (more than 80-90 degrees).
- ⚡ Triggering of the circuit breaker in the electrical panel when the refrigerator is turned on.
If the diagnostics showed that the motor itself burned out, it must be replaced with one of similar power and refrigerant. Using an unsuitable compressor will lead to unstable operation of the system and rapid re-failure.
4. Clogged capillary tube and ice plug
Freon circulation in the system Atlant occurs through a very thin capillary tube. If there is moisture in the system (for example, after poor-quality previous repairs) or oil breakdown products, an ice plug or blockage will form in a bottleneck. Freon stops flowing into the evaporator and cooling stops.
A characteristic sign of this malfunction is cyclical operation. The refrigerator may freeze for a while, then stop, thaw, and start working again. This happens because the plug periodically thaws, allowing gas to pass through, and then freezes again. At the same time, the pressure in the system fluctuates, which has a bad effect on the service life of the compressor.
To eliminate the problem, you need to:
- Opening the system and purging with nitrogen under high pressure.
- Replacing the filter-drier with a new one.
- Evacuation systems for a long time to remove moisture.
- Filling with the exact amount of refrigerant.
It is impossible to independently perform these procedures without special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station, nitrogen cylinder). Attempts to “blow out” the system with your mouth or a compressor will only drive the moisture deeper.
5. Violation of operating rules and ventilation
Sometimes the reason for the lack of cold lies not in the breakdown, but in the operating conditions. Dual-compressor models are sensitive to overheating. If the refrigerator is located close to the wall or in a niche without gaps, heat is not removed from the condenser. The compressor overheats, the thermal protection is triggered, and it turns off before reaching the desired temperature.
The tightness of the door seal also plays an important role. If the elastic band seal does not fit tightly, warm, moist air constantly enters the chamber. The system cannot cope with such a volume of heat; a “fur coat” grows on the walls, blocking heat exchange. As a result, the freezer ceases to perform its functions.
Check the following points:
- 📏 The gap between the back wall of the refrigerator and the wall should be at least 5-7 cm.
- 🚪 The door should close tightly, without distortions (check with a level).
- 🧊 Ice thickness on the walls should not exceed 5 mm (if there is no No Frost system).
☑️ Checking the operating conditions
6. Table of main symptoms and probable causes
To quickly navigate the problem, use the summary table. It will help narrow down the troubleshooting before calling a technician.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Necessary equipment |
|---|---|---|---|
| The compressor is humming, but does not start | The starting relay is faulty or the motor is jammed | Low / High | Multimeter, new relay |
| The motor runs constantly, there is no cold | Freon leak or capillary blockage | High | Vacuumator, pressure gauges, freon |
| The refrigerator rarely turns on, the temperature is high | The thermostat is faulty or sensor | Average | Multimeter, new sensor |
| The sound of flowing liquid is heard, there is little cold | Lack of refrigerant (microcrack) | High | Leak detector, refueling equipment |
Analysis of symptoms allows you to understand whether it is worth trying to repair the equipment yourself. Replacing the relay or thermostat is within the reach of most DIYers, while leak detection and refilling require a license and skill.
7. When you need to call a professional technician
There are a number of situations when independent repair of a two-compressor Atlanta not only will not help, but will also aggravate the situation. Intervention in a sealed circuit without knowledge of the physics of processes and a special tool will lead to damage to expensive components.
Contact the service if:
- 🛑 Welding of copper tubes and vacuuming of the system is required.
- 🛑 It is necessary to replace the compressor or evaporator.
- 🛑 There is a freon leak in the foamed part of the housing.
- 🛑 The electronic control module requires re-soldering of components.
⚠️ Attention: Working with refrigerants requires compliance with safety precautions. Some gases are flammable or toxic at high concentrations. Do not carry out repairs in an unventilated area.
A professional technician has diagnostic equipment that allows you to accurately determine the pressure in the circuits and the presence of non-condensable gases. This saves time and money, as it eliminates the random method and the purchase of unnecessary spare parts.
8. Prevention and extension of service life
In order for the freezer compartment of a two-compressor refrigerator Atlant to work for a long time and without failures, it is important to follow simple preventive rules. Regular defrosting (for drip systems) prevents the formation of a thick ice crust, which worsens heat transfer and forces the compressor to work at its limit.
Sudden surges in voltage in the network, which are detrimental to electronics and motor windings, should also be avoided. Using a voltage stabilizer or surge protector with protection will help smooth out peaks in the electrical network. Cleaning the condenser grille at the back of the refrigerator from dust at least once a year will improve heat transfer.
Compliance with temperature conditions and chamber loading rules ensures stable operation. Do not place hot foods in the freezer or overcrowd the freezer, leaving room for air circulation. These simple steps significantly reduce the load on the system.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the freezer is not working, but the refrigerator compartment is functioning?
Technically this is possible, since the circuits are separated. However, if the reason is a freon leak from the common circuit (in some models) or problems with the electronics, further work may finish off the compressor. If only the freezer motor is out of order, the refrigerator compartment will work normally, but it is better not to delay repairs.
How long should the two-compressor Atlant cool down after defrosting?
Complete restoration of the temperature in the freezer after complete defrosting can take from 4 to 12 hours. In the refrigerator compartment, the cold appears faster, after 1-2 hours. If the temperature has not dropped to -18°C within 12 hours, there is likely a malfunction.
Why, after replacing the thermostat, did the refrigerator start to turn on and off frequently?
Perhaps the wrong type of thermostat is installed (with different on/off parameters) or the differentiation is incorrectly configured. Also, the reason may be that the case has not completely cooled down after soldering, if work was done with freon, or the presence of air in the system.
What does the flashing temperature indicator on the control panel mean?
In models with electronic control, a flashing indicator usually signals an increase in the temperature in the chamber above the permissible norm. This can be either a consequence of loading warm products, or a sign of a malfunction of the sensor or cooling system.