Why the two-chamber refrigerator "Biryusa" does not freeze: full analysis of reasons and solutions

Has your two-chamber refrigerator Biryusa suddenly stopped freezing, and the ice is melting in the freezer? Or, worse, have both compartments turned into “warm cabinets”? Do not rush to call a specialist - in 60% of cases the problem can be fixed on your own. This article will help you understand why the unit lost cold, even if you have never held a screwdriver in your hands.

We analyzed typical malfunctions of models Biryusa-18S, Biryusa-22S, Biryusa-50 and other popular series, and also took into account the features of systems No Frost and drip defrosting. There are no general phrases here - only specific reasons with photographs of components, test diagrams and step-by-step instructions. For convenience, we added table symptomsa diagnostic checklist and answers to frequently asked questions in FAQ format.

Important: if the refrigerator Biryusa not just does not freeze well, but has completely turned off (the light does not light, there are no sounds), first check the outlet and power cord. We will discuss the remaining cases below.

1. Checking obvious reasons: 5 steps before disassembly

Before committing complex breakdowns, exclude “household” factors. They are found in 30% of calls to service centers - and are eliminated in 5 minutes.

  • 🔌 Power and settings: Make sure that the refrigerator is plugged in (the indicator on the panel should be on). Check the position of the temperature regulator - it may have become disturbed during cleaning. The optimal value for Turquys: 2–3 (in models with electronic control - -18°C for the freezer).
  • 🚪 Door closure tightness: Shine a flashlight into the seal - if the light passes through, the rubber the circuit is worn or dirty. Conduct a test with a paper sheet: it should be pressed tightly around the entire perimeter.
  • 🧊 Overload with products: If you fill the freezer to capacity, the compressor will not be able to cope with the load. Norm for Turquishes: no more than 2/3 of the chamber volume.
  • ☀️ External temperature: The refrigerator will not freeze if it is standing next to a radiator, stove or in direct sunlight. Optimal climate for work: +16…+32°C.
  • ❄️ Icing of the evaporator: In models with No Frost check that the evaporator is not covered with a thick layer of ice (visible after removing the back panel of the freezer). This blocks air circulation.

If all points are normal, but the refrigerator Biryusa still does not freeze, proceed to diagnosing technical faults.

📊 How long ago did you notice the problem with the freezer?
Less than a day
1–3 days
More than a week
I don’t remember

2. The compressor works, but does not freeze: 3 critical failures

Scenario: the motor is humming, the light is on, but there is no cold. This is a signal of problems in freon circuit or the control system. Let's consider the three most likely reasons.

2.1. Freon leak

In Biryusa models with an aluminum evaporator (manufactured before 2018), refrigerant leakage occurs 2 times more often due to corrosion of the tubes. Symptoms:

  • 🔊 The compressor runs non-stop, but not turns off.
  • ❄️ The condenser (grid at the back) is cold, although it should heat up.
  • 💧 Oil on the floor under the refrigerator (if there is a leak in the compressor).

How to check: touch capillary tube (thin copper tube between compressor and evaporator). If there is a leak, it will be warm, not icy.

2.2. Clogged capillary system

Over time, dirt accumulates in the tubes, which blocks the circulation of freon. Symptoms:

  • 🕒 The compressor turns on for 5-10 minutes, then turns off with a click.
  • 🌡️ The freezer is slightly cold, but does not freeze.
  • 🔧 Dark spots are visible on the back wall of the refrigerator (oxidation copper).

It is impossible to clean the system on your own - you will need vacuum filling with freon. But you can confirm the diagnosis: if after turning off the refrigerator for 12 hours the problem remains, the blockage is 90% likely.

2.3. Malfunction of the thermostat

The thermostat (in mechanical models) or temperature sensor (in electronic models) may give false signals. How does this manifest itself:

  • 🔄 The compressor turns on chaotically or does not start at all.
  • 📉 The temperature in the chambers jumps from -5°C to +10°C.
  • 🔊 When you turn the thermostat knob, a click is heard, but the motor does not reacts.

Check for a mechanical thermostat:

  1. Unplug the refrigerator.
  2. Remove the plastic cover inside the chamber where the adjustment knob is located.
  3. Short the two wires going to the thermostat (usually red and brown).
  4. Turn on the refrigerator - if the compressor starts working, the thermostat is faulty.

3. The compressor does not turn on: electrical faults

If the refrigerator shows no signs of life at all (the light does not light, you cannot hear the relay clicks), it is to blame electrical part. Let's figure out what could have broken.

Symptom Probable cause How to check
Light does not light, no sounds Faulty power cord or plug Ring with a multimeter or connect another device to the same outlet
The light is on, but the compressor does not start The starting relay is burnt out Shake the relay - if it rattles, the contacts are burnt
The relay clicks, but the motor does not hum Interturn short circuit in the compressor Measure the resistance of the windings (should be 20–40 Ohm)
The refrigerator turns on and immediately turns off Failure of the control board (in models with a display) Inspect the board for swollen capacitors

The most common breakdown in this unit is start relay. It is inexpensive (from 500 rubles) and can be replaced in 10 minutes. To check it:

  1. Turn off the refrigerator.
  2. Remove the relay (black “box” on the compressor).
  3. Shake it - if you hear the sound of burnt contacts, the part is under replacement.
How to check the compressor with a multimeter?

1. Turn off the refrigerator and discharge the capacitor (short-circuit it with a screwdriver).

2. Remove the terminals from the compressor.

3. Measure the resistance between the terminals:

- Between C-S and C-M should be ~20–40 Ohms.

- Between S-M —the sum of the two previous values.

- If the resistance is 0 or ∞, the compressor has burned out.

4. Problems with the No Frost system: why the upper chamber does not freeze

In refrigerators Biryusa s No Frost (for example, Biryusa-140, Biryusa-145) malfunctions are often associated with the forced air circulation system. If the freezer works, but the refrigerator compartment does not, look for the reason here.

  • 🌀 Broken fan: If it does not spin, cold air does not enter the main chamber. Check to see if the blades are blocked by ice or foreign objects.
  • 🔥 The defrost heater has burnt out: Because of this, the evaporator freezes and air does not flow through. The sign is a thick layer of ice on the back wall of the freezer.
  • 📡 The defrost sensor or timer is faulty: In electronic models, this leads to constant operation of the fan without defrosting.

How to check fan:

  1. Turn off the refrigerator.
  2. Remove the back panel in the freezer (usually secured with 4 screws).
  3. Try to turn the blades manually - if they do not rotate, replace the motor.

To check the defrost heater measure its resistance with a multimeter. Normal value: 200–500 Ohm. If the device shows a break, the part needs to be replaced.

Check the fan rotation|Inspect the evaporator for ice|Ring the defrost heater|Check the defrost sensor (resistance ~5 kOhm)|Make sure the defrost timer clicks when turn

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5. Biryusa two-chamber refrigerator: specific breakdowns

Two-chamber models Biryusa have design features that affect the nature of breakdowns. For example, in units with one compressor (as in Biryusa-22S), a malfunction of the freezer often leads to failure of the entire refrigerator.

5.1. Malfunction of the magnetic valve

In two-chamber refrigerators, the valve switches the freon flow between chambers. If it is jammed:

  • 🧊 The freezer is working, but the refrigerator compartment is not (or vice versa).
  • 🔊 You can hear a click when switching, but the temperature does not change.

Check: touch with the compressor running capillary tube, going to the freezer and refrigerator compartment. If one of them is icy and the other is warm, the valve is faulty.

5.2. Freon leak in the inter-chamber partition

In models with crying evaporator (drip system) the tubes pass through the partition between the chambers. Over time, microcracks form there. Signs:

  • 💧 Water accumulates in the refrigerator compartment.
  • 🌡️ The temperature in the freezer drops to -25°C, but in the main chamber remains positive.

This breakdown cannot be repaired independently - it requires vacuuming soldering of the tubes followed by refilling with freon.

5.3. Malfunction of the electronic control unit

In modern models (for example, Biryusa-130N) the board is responsible for the distribution of cold. If it fails:

  • 📛 Errors appear on the display E1, E2 or E4.
  • 🔄 The compressor turns on for a few seconds and turns off.
  • 🌡️ The temperature in the chambers changes chaotically.

Check the board for:

  • 🔋 Swollen or leaking capacitors.
  • 🔥 Burnt tracks or relays.
  • 🕳️ Microcracks in the soldering.

6. When to call a specialist: 4 cases when amateur activity is dangerous

Some breakdowns require professional equipment and skills. Here are situations when you should not take risks:

  1. Freon leakage: Without a vacuum pump and a refrigerant cylinder, it is impossible to charge the system. An error when refueling can lead to water hammer and breakdown of the compressor.
  2. Replacing the compressor: A blowtorch, freon and precise pressure adjustment are required. Incorrect installation will shorten the service life of the new motor by 2 times.
  3. Repairing the control board: Without a diagram and experience in soldering SMD components, you risk completely burning the unit.
  4. Replacing the evaporator: In models c No Frost this is a labor-intensive operation that requires disassembling the entire freezer.

Average prices for repairs in service centers (for 2026):

  • 🔧 Refilling freon: 2,500–4,000 ₽.
  • 🔄 Compressor replacement: 5,000–8,000 ₽ (with refills).
  • 📛 Repair of control board: 2,000–4,500 ₽.
  • ❄️ Replacement of the evaporator: 6,000–10,000 ₽.

7. Prevention: how to extend the life of a Biryusa refrigerator

Following simple rules will reduce the risk of breakdowns by 40%:

  • 🧹 Cleaning the condenser: Vacuum the rear grille once every six months. Dust impairs heat transfer and causes the compressor to wear out.
  • 🚪 Caring for the seal: Wash the rubber gasket with warm water and soap once a month. Lubricate with silicone grease (not vegetable oil!).
  • ❄️ Proper defrosting: In models with No Frost defrosting once a year is sufficient. In drip mode - every 3-4 months.
  • 🌡️ Temperature control: Do not put hot foods in the refrigerator. Optimal load: 2–3 kg of food per 10 liters of volume.
  • ☀️ Microclimate: Keep the refrigerator away from batteries and direct sunlight. The optimal distance to the wall is 5 cm.

For models with No Frost required:

  • Do not block the ventilation holes with products.
  • Once every six months, clean the drainage hole (at the bottom of the back wall) from mold.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about Biryusa refrigerators

❓ The Biryusa refrigerator hums, but does not freezing. What's the matter?

If the compressor works, but there is no cold, check:

  1. Freon leakage (the condenser remains cold).
  2. Clogged capillary tube (the compressor turns on for 5-10 minutes and turns off).
  3. Malfunction of the thermostat (close the contacts - if the motor starts working, change the thermostat).

In 90% of cases, one of these three factors is to blame.

❓ The freezer works, but the refrigerator compartment does not. What to do?

In two-chamber models, this is a sign of:

  • Stuck magnetic valve (switches the cold between chambers).
  • Freon leaks in interchamber partition.
  • Faults No Frost fan (if any).

First check to see if the ventilation holes are blocked by ice or food.

❓ Error E1 lights up on the display. What does this mean?

In refrigerators Biryusa with electronic control E1 indicates:

  • Problem with temperature sensor freezers.
  • Open circuit of the defrost heater (in models with No Frost).

Try to turn off the refrigerator for 10 minutes. If the error remains, you need to diagnose the board or sensor.

❓ You can Is it possible to fill freon into Biryusa yourself?

Technically it is possible, but highly not recommended. For refueling you need:

  • Vacuum pump (from 5,000 ₽).
  • Cylinder with freon (type R-134a or R-600a, depending on the model).
  • Gauge manifold.
  • Experience in soldering copper tubes.

An error during refueling can lead to water hammer and breakdown of the compressor. It is better to entrust this to a specialist.

❓ How much does it cost to repair a compressor in Biryusa?

The cost depends on the model and region:

  • Replacement of the compressor: 5,000–8,000 ₽ (including refilling freon).
  • Repair of windings: 3,000–4,500 ₽ (if the motor has not burned out completely).
  • Diagnostics: 500–1,000 ₽ (often free if you agree to repair).

For models older than 10 years, it is sometimes cheaper to buy a new refrigerator.

If your case is not described in the article, check the model of the refrigerator Biryusa (sticker inside the chamber or on the back wall) and the symptoms of the breakdown. This will help to more accurately determine. reason.