The situation when the refrigerator does not turn off for a long timeis familiar to many owners of household appliances. The hum of the engine, which does not subside for hours, and sometimes even days, is not only annoying, but also signals a serious malfunction in the operation of the cooling system. Ignoring this problem can lead to overheating of the compressor, failure of expensive components and spoilage of food.
Modern models, be it Indesit, Bosch or LG, are equipped with smart electronics, which should automatically regulate operating cycles. However, even the most advanced technology can malfunction due to simple wear and tear of parts or external factors. Understanding why compressor went into non-stop mode will help you make the right decision: call a technician or try to fix the problem yourself.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical causes of the failure, and also consider typical operating errors that often go unnoticed. If the compressor operates continuously for more than 12 hours at normal temperature in the chamber, this is considered an emergency mode. It is important not to panic, but to consistently check the condition of the unit, following the diagnostic logic.
External factors and operating errors
Before looking for complex technical faults, it is worth eliminating trivial reasons. Often The refrigerator does not turn off due to the fact that heat from the external environment comes inside faster than the system can remove it. This forces the temperature sensors to constantly require active operation from the compressor.
One of the most common reasons is incorrect installation of the unit. If the refrigerator is too close to the wall, radiator or heating devices, air circulation around condenser is disrupted. The radiator grille, located at the rear or on the sides, simply does not have time to cool down, and the refrigerant does not condense properly.
⚠️ Attention: Never install the refrigerator close to the wall. The minimum distance to the back wall should be at least 10-15 cm for free air circulation.
Another critical factor is the room temperature. If you use equipment in an unheated country house or, conversely, in the kitchen next to a stove, where the temperature exceeds +30°C, the standard cooling cycle may be disrupted. In such conditions thermostat simply does not receive a signal that the set temperature has been reached.
It is also worth checking the tightness of the door. If sealing rubber is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air constantly penetrates into the chamber. This creates an “open door” effect, forcing the motor to wear out.
Problems with tightness and seals
Violation of the tightness of the chamber is a hidden enemy, which often leads to the refrigerator does not turn off. Even a microscopic gap in the seal creates a constant flow of warm air, which instantly increases the temperature inside, causing the sensors to give a command to cool.
Check the condition of the rubber band around the entire perimeter of the door. There should be no cracks, tears or sticky residue that would interfere with a tight fit. Sometimes the problem can be solved by simply cleaning or replacing the magnetic tape. To check the tightness, you can use a simple test with a sheet of paper.
- 📄 Take a regular sheet of paper and clamp it with the refrigerator door.
- 🚪 Try to pull the sheet out: if it slides freely, the seal is broken.
- 🔍 Walk around the entire perimeter, checking the fit at different points.
- 🧼 Clean the rubber with warm water and soap or replace it if damaged.
If the seal is in order, pay attention to the door hinges. Over time, they can weaken, and the door warps, no longer closing tightly. In models with the system No Frost this can also lead to freezing of the air ducts, which will aggravate the problem.
How to restore the elasticity of the elastic?
If the elastic has simply lost its shape, but is intact, you can try to straighten it. Remove the seal and soak in hot water (not boiling water) for a few minutes. After this, carefully straighten and install back. However, this is a temporary measure, and a complete replacement is preferable.
It is important to understand that even a small leak leads to a significant increase in electricity consumption. A compressor operating non-stop quickly heats up, and its service life is reduced significantly.
Faults in the thermostat and sensors
Thermoregulator (thermostat) is the “brain” of the cooling system, which makes the decision to turn the compressor on and off. If this device fails, it can constantly give a signal that the chamber is too warm, even if it is already frosty there.
Older models use mechanical thermostats, while new ones use electronic sensors (thermistors). Mechanical devices may become stuck in the on position due to worn contacts or loss of bellows sensitivity. Electronic sensors may give incorrect readings if the contacts are oxidized or the wiring is damaged.
Symptoms of a malfunctioning thermostat often include not only continuous operation of the motor, but also the absence of a characteristic click when turned off. There may also be a lack of response to turning the temperature control knob.
☑️ Diagnostics of the thermostat
To check the mechanical thermostat, you can use the freezing method. If the compressor does not turn off when the chamber is very cool (down to -10°C and below), the sensor is most likely faulty and requires replacement. In electronic models, diagnostics will require a multimeter and checking the sensor resistance at different temperatures.
Refrigerant leakage and problems with freon
One of the most serious reasons why the refrigerator works without stoppingis a refrigerant (freon) leak. If there is not enough working substance in the system, the compressor tries to compensate for the lack of cold by working continuously, but does not reach the desired temperature.
A leak can occur anywhere in the circuit: in the evaporator, condenser or pipe soldering areas. Often the cause is microcracks caused by corrosion or mechanical damage. In systems No Frost leak can be hidden under a layer of foam in the housing.
| Symptom | Description of symptom | Probability of leakage |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | It's warm in the chambers, food is spoiling | High |
| Motor | Humming constantly, hot to the touch | High |
| Frost | Absence of frost on the evaporator or a “coat” only at the entrance | Medium |
| Condenser | Tubes the rear is cold or only partially warm | High |
It is almost impossible to fix the leak and fill the system with freon on your own without special equipment. It is necessary to evacuate the system, locate the leak using a leak detector, and accurately dose the refrigerant.
⚠️ Attention: Freon is a gas that can be dangerous if handled incorrectly. Refilling and repairing the circuit should only be carried out by a certified, licensed specialist.
If you notice oily spots on the floor under the refrigerator or in the compressor area, this is a sure sign that oil is leaving the system along with freon. In this case, you cannot hesitate to call a technician.
Malfunctions of the compressor and start relay
Itself compressor could also be the source of the problem. Wear of the piston group or valves leads to a drop in performance. The motor hums, trying to create the required pressure, but due to internal defects it cannot achieve the required parameters, so it does not turn off.
A frequent reason for continuous operation is a faulty start relay. This small element is responsible for starting the engine. If the relay contacts are stuck or burnt, the compressor may work without interruption or constantly try to start with a characteristic click.
- 🔌 Sticking contacts: the relay does not open the circuit, and current continues to flow to the windings.
- 🔥 Overheating: a faulty relay may overheat, which is dangerous fire.
- ⚡ Voltage surges: can damage the electronic control board that regulates the operation of the motor.
To diagnose the relay, you need to remove it and shake it: if a knock is heard inside, it means the core is loose and the element faulty You can also check the winding resistance with a multimeter. Replacing a relay is a simple procedure and is often done with your own hands.
No Frost system and problems with defrosting
In refrigerators with a system No Frost the reason for continuous operation is often a failure in the evaporator defrosting system. If the defrost heating element, timer or defrost sensor is faulty, a “coat of ice” builds up on the evaporator.
Ice blocks the circulation of cold air. The temperature sensor located in the chamber does not “feel” the cold, since air does not reach it due to the ice plug. As a result, the compressor works constantly, trying to cool the chamber, but to no avail.
Signs of a defrosting problem:
- ❄️ Severe frosting of the back wall in the freezer.
- 💨 Weak or absent air flow from air ducts.
In this case, you need to defrost the refrigerator (turn it off for 24 hours with the doors open) and check the serviceability of the heating element and sensors. If, after complete defrosting, the refrigerator begins to operate in normal mode, the problem lies precisely in the defrosting system.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long should the refrigerator work and how long should it rest?
In normal operation, the cycle is approximately: 20-40 minutes of work and 15-20 minutes of rest. The ratio of working time to rest time should be approximately 1:1 or 2:1. If the refrigerator works for 2 hours and rests for 5 minutes, this is a cause for concern.
Can a new refrigerator not turn off for a long time?
Yes, when turned on for the first time or after complete defrosting, a new refrigerator can work without stopping for up to 24 hours. This is necessary to set the initial temperature and freeze the food. If the non-stop mode persists for more than a day when the chamber is empty, this is a malfunction.
Is it dangerous to leave a refrigerator running without stopping?
Long-term operation in emergency mode is dangerous due to overheating of the compressor, which can lead to it jamming or even fire of the wiring. In addition, this leads to significant waste of electricity. It is recommended to turn off the device and carry out diagnostics.
Why is the refrigerator humming but not cooling?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or blockage of the capillary system. The compressor pumps, but the refrigerant does not circulate or there is not enough refrigerant for heat exchange. A call to a technician is required to find leaks and refill.
Does the amount of products affect the operating time?
Yes, fully loading the chambers with warm products requires more cooling time. However, after entering the mode, the refrigerator should turn on and off cyclically. If there are few products and the motor is constantly humming, look for a malfunction.