The situation when two-chamber refrigerator works without interruption is familiar to many owners of household appliances. The unit hums for days, trying to reach the set temperature, but it never stops. This is not just increased noise that interferes with rest, but also a direct path to engine overheating and high electricity bills.
Owners often panic when they hear a continuous hum, but in the case of appliances Indesit this can be either a sign of a serious breakdown or a reaction to external factors. Understanding the logic of operation refrigeration circuit will help you quickly determine whether you need to call a technician or the problem can be solved yourself.
Modern models, such as Indesit EF 18 or series BIA, are equipped with complex electronics that control cooling cycles. If the system “sees” that the temperature in the chamber is higher than normal, it will not give a command to stop the compressor. Let's look in detail at what exactly could have gone wrong with the operation of your device.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the most common reasons for continuous operation is failure of thermostat (thermostat). This element is responsible for controlling the temperature inside the chambers. If its contacts are stuck in the “on” position or it is physically destroyed, the signal to turn off the compressor is simply not received.
In models with the system No Frost air controls are responsible for the process temperature sensorslocated at different points of the evaporator and cameras If one of the sensors transmits incorrect data that the refrigerator is warm, the electronics will keep the motor on. Replacing a thermostat is a simple procedure, but requires disassembly.
Often the problem lies in incorrect installation of the thermostat after previous repairs or cleaning. The sensing element tube may have become dislodged and may not be in contact with the surface it is supposed to cool. In this case, sensor does not sense real cold and does not give a command to stop.
⚠️ Attention: Before replacing the thermostat, be sure to unplug the refrigerator. Working with live electrical components is life-threatening.
Refrigerant leak and problems with the compressor
If refrigerator it hums, but there is no cold inside or there is not enough of it, there is a high probability of a leak. freon. In this case, the compressor works hard, trying to compensate for the lack of refrigerant and cool the volume of the chambers to the specified parameters, but physically cannot do this.
You can check this theory by touching the condenser (the grille on the back or the side walls). If it is cold or only partially warm, but the engine is hot and runs constantly, this is a sign leaks. Frost may also appear on the tubes or, conversely, they will be completely dry where they should be warm.
The other extreme is compressor lost its performance due to wear. The piston group could have worn out its service life and the valves could no longer hold pressure. The engine hums, creating the appearance of operation, but does not pump up sufficient pressure in the system for the shutdown cycle.
How to check the compressor for operation?
For accurate diagnosis, you need a pressure gauge manifold. The master connects it to the service connection. If the pressure builds up slowly or does not reach normal even after prolonged operation, the compressor requires replacement. It is difficult to check this on your own without equipment.
Repair in the event of a leak requires not only finding the location of the damage (often microcracks in the foamed part of the housing), but also evacuation of the system, filling with new freon and replacing the filter-drier. This is a complex procedure that cannot be performed without professional equipment.
Violation of tightness and problems with doors
It would seem to be a trivial reason, but it is poor fit of the doors that is responsible for 30% of cases of continuous operation of equipment. If the rubber seal (cuff) is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber.
Heat exchange is disrupted, and temperature inside it rises above the permissible limit. The electronics detect this increase and command the compressor to work without rest. This is especially true for two-chamber models, where the balance of temperatures in both compartments is important.
You can check the tightness with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter. If it is pulled out too easily or with great difficulty in different places, the tightness is broken. Also inspect the hinges: if the door is skewed, it will not be possible to close tightly.
- 🧊 Contamination of the seal: Fat and crumbs do not allow the door to close completely.
- 🚪 Distortion of hinges: The door is sagging and does not fit at the bottom or top corner.
- 🔥 Heating the seal: The old rubber could have become stiff or lost elasticity over time.
☑️ Diagnosis of the seal
The influence of the No Frost system and malfunctions defrosting
In two-chamber refrigerators Indesit with a system No Frost a frequent reason for “failure to turn off” is a failure in the defrosting system. If the evaporator heating element has burned out, the defrost timer has burned out, or the relay is stuck, a “coat” of ice grows on the evaporator.
Ice blocks the circulation of cold air. The sensors “see” that the chamber is warm (since cold air does not pass through the ice plug), and force the compressor to work continuously. In this case, the evaporator itself can be frozen into an ice cocoon.
This can be diagnosed by defrosting the refrigerator completely (for 24 hours with the doors open). If, after turning it on, it started working in normal mode (turns on and off), and after a week or two the situation repeated itself, the problem is definitely in the system defrost.
| System element | Function | Fault symptom |
|---|---|---|
| Evaporator heating element | Heating and melting of ice | Ice does not melt, the compressor does not turn off |
| Thermal fuse | Overheat protection | Open circuit, heating element does not turn on |
| Defrost sensor | Defrost temperature control | Incorrect signals to the control board |
| Timer/Board | Switching modes | The refrigerator does not go into defrost mode |
Installation errors and external factors
Sometimes the reason lies not in the breakdown, but in the operating conditions. If refrigerator is installed close to the wall, in a niche without gaps or next to (battery, stove), heat transfer is difficult. The compressor overheats and cannot effectively cool the condenser.
The room temperature also affects. If the kitchen is hot (above +30°C), it is physically more difficult for the equipment to get cold. She will work longer, but ideally she should still take breaks. If there are no pauses, the condenser at the back may be dirty.
Check that the refrigerator is not loaded with hot foods. placing a hot pan into the chamber is a guaranteed way to make motor work for hours. Also, frequent opening of doors in summer leads to a constant flow of heat.
⚠️ Attention: The gap between the back of the refrigerator and the wall must be at least 5-7 cm for free air circulation. Otherwise, overheating and breakdown of the compressor is possible.
Failures in the electronic control module
In modern models Indesit responsible for all processes electronic module. Power surges, moisture, or manufacturing defects can cause the relay to “stick” on the control board. In this case, the contact to the compressor does not open, and it hums constantly.
Often this is accompanied by blinking indicators on the control panel or the appearance of errors (for example, a blinking defrost button). Electronics may incorrectly read sensor readings due to oxidation of contacts or damaged wiring.
Diagnostics of the module requires testing the circuits with a multimeter and visually inspecting the board for burnt elements. If you notice a burning smell or visible traces of melting, DIY repairs are not recommended here; it is better to replace the entire module.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long should it take Is the Indesit refrigerator working normally?
Under normal conditions, the operating cycle is approximately 15-20 minutes, followed by a pause (rest) lasting 20-40 minutes. The work coefficient usually does not exceed 0.5 (that is, it costs half the time). If it works for 40 minutes and costs 10, this is already an alarming signal.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if it does not turn off?
For a short time - yes, for example, while you are waiting for a technician or transporting spare parts. But long-term operation (a day or more) leads to overheating of the compressor windings, drying out of the oil and other engine damage. The resource is reduced significantly.
Why did the refrigerator start working non-stop after defrosting?
If after complete defrosting (24 hours) the situation has not changed, then the problem is not in the ice jam. Most likely, the thermostat is faulty, a freon leak has occurred, or the defrost heating element has burned out (in No Frost models), which was supposed to prevent icing.
How to reset the error on an Indesit refrigerator?
Try to perform a full reset: unplug the device for 15-20 minutes. Turn it on again. If the error was caused by a power surge, it may disappear. If the cause is a physical malfunction of the sensor, the error will return after the first cooling cycle.
What to do if the compressor is hot but there is no cold?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or a clogged capillary system. You cannot refill freon yourself. You need to call a technician to look for leaks, solder and refill.