The situation when the refrigerator Indesit freezer is working properly, but there is heat in the upper chamber, is one of the most common complaints from the owners of this equipment. Often, users do not notice the problem immediately: the food in the main compartment begins to deteriorate when the compressor is already working hard, trying to achieve the set temperature parameters. This behavior is typical both for old models with a drip defrosting system, and for modern units with Indesit refrigerator technology No Frost.
There is no need to panic in this case, but you should not delay diagnostics. Long-term operation of equipment in emergency mode can lead to failure of an expensive compressor or a complete leak of refrigerant. In most cases, the reason lies in the disruption of cold air circulation or failures in the evaporator defrost system.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanics of the cooling process, typical malfunctions and methods for eliminating them. You will learn how to carry out initial diagnostics without calling a technician and in which cases self-repair is truly effective. Understanding the principles of operation of your model Indesit will help save time and budget for restoration.
Principles of cold circulation in Indesit models
To understand why the upper compartment stopped cooling, you need to briefly consider the design of the refrigeration unit. In classic two-chamber models refrigerant passes through the evaporator, usually located in the freezer or behind the back wall. It is there that freon boils and takes heat from the internal space.
In systems with No Frost a special fan is responsible for the distribution of cold. It forces cooled air from the freezer into the upper chamber through ducts. If this mechanism is broken, the cold simply does not reach the food, remaining in the lower compartment. In drip systems (crying evaporator), the cold is transferred through the metal back wall, and problems are more often associated with freezing or gas leakage.
It is important to distinguish between these two systems, since the troubleshooting algorithm will be radically different. In the first case, we look for mechanical obstacles to the air, in the second, we check the tightness of the circuit and the operation of the thermostat.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any diagnostics, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Working with live electrical appliances is life-threatening, even if you simply remove the plastic panel.
Modern models Indesit are often equipped with electronic controls, where a module is responsible for switching modes. However, the basic physical principle remains the same: cold must be produced and delivered to the consumer. If the chain breaks, the upper chamber turns into a regular cabinet.
How does the defrost cycle work?
In No Frost systems, the evaporator is periodically heated by a special heating element to melt the ice. Water flows into the pan. If this cycle is disrupted, ice blocks the air supply channels.
Main reasons for the lack of cold in the upper chamber
The list of potential culprits of the problem is quite wide, but statistics from service centers highlight several leaders. Most often, the problem lies in the defrost system or mechanical damage to the seals. Let's take a closer look at them so that you can conduct an initial examination.
The first thing you should pay attention to is ice on the evaporator. Even if you can't see the ice visually, it may be hidden behind a plastic panel. A thick layer of snow blocks the fan or blocks the air supply channels. As a result, the freezer operates in enhanced mode, but the cold does not flow upward.
The second common case is the failure of the blower fan. If the blades do not rotate, air convection is not possible. You can check this by listening to the operation of the unit: there should be no characteristic wind noise. Also, the fan may jam due to trapped ice.
- ❄️ Clogged drainage hole: Water from the melted ice does not leave, freezes in the channel and blocks the passage for cold air.
- 🔌 Malfunction of the defrost heating element: The heating element burns out, the ice does not melt, a “fur coat” builds up, blocking the system.
- 🌡️ Temperature sensor failure: The thermostat “thinks” that the chamber is already cold, and does not turn on the compressor at full power or does not start the defrost mode.
- 🚪 Damage to the door seal: Warm, humid air constantly enters the chamber, which instantly turns into icy air crust on the evaporator.
Do not forget about banal things. Sometimes users accidentally block the vents with food or set the temperature too low, which leads to a “snowball” effect.
Diagnostics of the No Frost system and air ducts
If your Indesit is equipped with a system No Frostthen the absence of cold at the top when the freezer is running is 90% cases indicates a circulation problem. Air physically cannot pass through an ice plug. For diagnostics, you will need to remove the back panel in the freezer.
Visually assess the condition of the evaporator. If it is covered with a thick layer of frost or ice, and the fan stops (or turns with difficulty, touching the ice), then the defrost system is not working. This may be faulty Heating element, defrost sensor or fuse.
Check the air ducts connecting the chambers. They should not contain foreign objects, ice or food that could fall and block the passage. Sometimes it is enough to carefully clean the channel with a long brush to restore air flow.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Check method |
|---|---|---|
| The fan hums, but does not spin | Freezing bearings or ice on the blades | Visual inspection after removing the panel |
| The fan is silent | The motor is burnt out or there is no power | Test with a multimeter |
| The evaporator is completely intact ice | The defrosting system (heating element, sensor) is faulty | Checking the resistance of the heating element |
| Ice only at the bottom of the evaporator | Drainage clogged | Blowing out the drainage holes |
It is important to check the condition of the rubber seals on the door. If they do not fit tightly, warm air is sucked into the chamber. Moisture from it settles on the cold evaporator, turning into ice, which eventually blocks the entire system.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to pick out the ice with a knife or sharp objects! You can damage the evaporator tubes or puncture the heating element, which will lead to expensive repairs or a freon leak.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Problems with the refrigerant and compressor
If the defrosting system is in order, the fan is spinning, but there is still no cold, the problem may be more serious. We are talking about freon leak or a compressor malfunction. In such cases, the freezer can continue to freeze due to residual refrigerant or working at the limit of capacity, but the resource is no longer enough to reach the top.
If there is a freon leak, the compressor will work almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature. You may notice that the condenser grill on the back of the refrigerator is either cold or only partially hot. Also a characteristic sign is swelling of the inner side wall of the refrigeration chamber.
If the compressor starts, makes a few clicks and turns off, or hums but does not start, the start-protection relay or the motor-compressor itself may have failed. In this case, independent repair is possible only if you have skills in working with power tools and understanding electrical circuits.
Diagnosing a leak at home is difficult without special equipment (leak detector), but indirect signs are obvious. If, after completely defrosting for 24 hours, the refrigerator gets cold, but then stops freezing again, this is an almost guaranteed leak.
Replacing a compressor or finding a microcrack in a sealed circuit is a task for professionals. On your own, you can only replace the filter drier and solder the tubes if you have the equipment, but vacuuming the system requires skills.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and electronics
In models with mechanical control, thermostatis responsible for turning the compressor on and off. This device measures the temperature in the chamber and closes the circuit. If its sensitive element (capillary tube) has moved or failed, the refrigerator “does not understand” that the space needs to be cooled.
In electronic models Indesit temperature sensors (thermistors) play the role of a thermostat. They transmit data to the control module. If the sensor is lying or the contact is broken, the module does not give a command for cooling. Often, when the sensor breaks down, an error lights up on the display or the temperature indicator blinks.
You can check the thermostat by closing its contacts directly (for diagnostics). If the refrigerator starts working after this, the part needs to be replaced. With electronics it is more difficult: here you will need a multimeter to check the resistance of the sensor at different temperatures.
- 🔧 Capillary displacement: The thermostat tube could jump out of the seat and not come into contact with the air of the chamber.
- 📉 Contact wear: The contacts inside the thermostat could burn out, causing the circuit to fail closes.
- 🧠 Module failure: The electronic control board could receive a voltage surge and stop processing signals correctly.
Sometimes the problem is solved by simply reconfiguring or resetting errors, if the model allows this through a combination buttons However, in most cases, replacement of the sensor is required.
Algorithm for defrosting and restoring operation
Before buying spare parts and disassembling the unit, try the simplest and often effective method - complete defrosting. If the reason was simple freezing of the evaporator due to infrequent maintenance, this step will bring the refrigerator back to life.
Disconnect the device from the mains, open all doors and leave it for at least 24 hours (preferably two days). Do not use a hairdryer or hot water to speed up the process - sudden temperature changes are dangerous for plastic and tubes. Place rags to collect water.
After all the ice has melted, wipe the chambers dry. Turn on the refrigerator without load (empty) and let it reach temperature. If after 2-3 hours it becomes cold in the upper chamber, then the system is intact, and you just need to monitor the operating mode.
If after defrosting the refrigerator worked for a couple of days and the situation repeated itself, it means that one of the elements of the defrosting system (heating element, sensor, timer) is faulty. In this case, you cannot do without replacing the part.
⚠️ Attention: If, after defrosting and turning on, the compressor runs constantly without turning off, but the cold does not accumulate, this is a sign of a freon leak. Defrosting will not help here, you need a specialist.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why, after defrosting, did the refrigerator stop freezing again after a couple of days?
This is a sure sign of a malfunction of the automatic defrosting system. Most likely, the heating element of the evaporator burned out, or the defrost sensor or timer failed. Ice builds up again and blocks the channels. Diagnostics with a multimeter and replacement of the burnt element are required.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the freezer is working but the top is not?
For a short time - yes, but not for long. The compressor will work to the limit, trying to cool the upper chamber, which will lead to its overheating and rapid failure. In addition, the food in the upper compartment will spoil.
How to understand that there is a freon leak in the Indesit refrigerator?
Main signs: the compressor works non-stop, the rear grille (condenser) is cold or barely warm, the inner wall of the refrigerator compartment is swollen, after defrosting the cold does not last long (a day or two).
Where is the temperature sensor in the Indesit refrigerator?
Depending on the model, the sensors can be located in the air duct between the chambers, on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment, or directly on the evaporator in the freezer. Usually this is a plastic cylinder on a wire.
How long should complete defrosting take?
For high-quality results and melting of ice in hidden channels and on the evaporator, it is recommended to leave the refrigerator turned off for at least 24 hours. Rushing in this matter can lead to the fact that the remaining ice in the depths of the system will again block the operation after turning it on.