The situation when the refrigerator does not freeze, and instead of the usual hum you hear only periodic clicks, is one of the most common scenarios for the breakdown of household appliances. This sound is usually made by start relaythe engine trying to start but encountering resistance or lack of voltage. Unlike situations where the unit simply stopped working silently, the presence of clicks narrows the range of possible culprits and gives hope that the problem can be solved quickly enough.
It is important to understand that ignoring these symptoms can lead to more serious consequences, up to the combustion of the windings compressor. If the motor cannot start, it will continue to draw current, become hot, and eventually fail. Therefore, upon hearing characteristic clicks, it is necessary to immediately stop operating the equipment and carry out an initial diagnosis of the condition of the electrical circuit and mechanical components.
Further actions will depend on how long ago the extraneous sounds appeared and whether they are accompanied by other signs of malfunction. In some cases, simply defrosting the camera is enough, in others, expensive components will need to be replaced. We will look at the main reasons why the refrigerator clicksbut does not start, and we will determine the procedure for troubleshooting the problem.
The principle of operation of the start relay and compressor
To understand the nature of the clicks, you need to understand the mechanics launch refrigeration unit. The heart of the system is the compressor, which is a sealed electric motor. To start it, a special device is used - a starting relay. It is this that supplies the impulse to the starting winding of the motor, after which the engine picks up speed and goes into operating mode.
The clicking sound is the sound of the contacts opening or closing inside this relay. In good condition, this process occurs once when the refrigerator is turned on. However, if starting relay faulty or the compressor cannot start, the cycle is repeated many times. The protection system tries to start the motor, hears that the start did not happen, opens the circuit (click) and after a while tries again.
Technical details of the relay operation
Inside the starting relay there is a coil and a movable core. When current is applied, the core is retracted, closing the contacts of the starting winding. If the motor does not start, the current remains high and the thermal relay opens the circuit, making a characteristic sound.
The frequency of these clicks may vary. In some models the interval is 10-15 seconds, in others - up to a minute. This depends on the cooling time of the thermal fuse. It is important not to confuse these sounds with clicks thermostat, which occur less frequently and are associated with a rise or fall in temperature inside the chambers.
Main causes of malfunction: from simple to complex
Diagnostics should always begin by eliminating the simplest and most obvious causes. Often, users panic ahead of time without checking the basic operating parameters of the electrical appliance. Before disassembling the equipment, make sure that the problem really lies inside the mechanism, and not in operating conditions.
Among the most common reasons why the refrigerator clicks it does not freeze are:
- 🔌 Unstable voltage on the network - if the socket "jumps" voltage, the starting relay cannot operate correctly, and the compressor stalls immediately after starting.
- ❄️ Evaporator freezing —in No Frost systems, if the defrost sensor malfunctions, the ice blocks the fan, and the motor overheats, going into protection.
- 🔥 Malfunction of the starting relay —the contacts are burnt or stuck, the mechanics are jammed, which prevents the engine from starting.
- 🛑 Jagging compressor —mechanical failure inside the motor, piston group, due to which the shaft cannot turn.
It is worth mentioning separately thermostat. If it is out of order and does not give a signal to turn on the compressor, there may be no clicks at all, or they will be rare. However, if the clicks are frequent and rhythmic, the problem most often lies in the starting circuit of the engine itself.
Diagnostics of the starting relay and thermal fuse
The most likely candidate for replacement with the described symptoms is start relay. This component is relatively inexpensive and is often the first to fail. To check it, you need to disconnect the refrigerator from the network, remove the back cover and carefully remove the relay from the compressor contacts.
Visual inspection can tell a lot to an experienced technician. If traces of burning, melted plastic or oxidation of contacts are visible inside the case, the part requires replacement. You can also check the relay by shaking it near your ear: if you hear the ringing of the detached core, the mechanism is destroyed.
☑️ Checking the starting relay
Thermal fuse, which is often built into the same structure or located nearby also plays a critical role. It opens the circuit when the windings overheat. If it is “broken” or, conversely, does not close, the compressor will not receive power. The test is carried out with a multimeter in continuity mode: a working device should show a short circuit (zero or close to zero resistance).
⚠️ Attention: When removing the relay, be extremely careful with the compressor contacts. Do not allow them to short circuit with each other or to the housing, as this can lead to breakdown of the motor windings.
Problems with the compressor: jamming and interturn short circuit
If replacing the relay did not help and refrigerator still only clicks, without starting to freeze, the situation becomes more complicated. In this case, there is a high probability of problems with the compressor itself. The most unpleasant of them is mechanical jamming. This happens when the rubbing parts inside the HDA are welded or destroyed, blocking the rotation of the shaft.
You can diagnose jamming by measuring the resistance of the windings. To do this, you need to remove the relay and measure the resistance between the contacts. Normal values are usually in the range of 10 to 30 ohms for the operating winding and slightly higher for the starting winding. If the resistance is infinitely high, there is a break; if it is close to zero, there is an interturn short circuit.
There is a “wedging” method, when increased voltage is briefly applied to the compressor in order to break it from its place. However, this method is dangerous and requires special equipment. At home, it is better not to take risks, since you can finally finish off the motor.
Another reason may be turn-to-turn short circuit windings. In this case, the engine hums, tries to start, but does not gain speed and quickly heats up. The thermal relay trips and opens the circuit, making a clicking sound. Repair in this case is impossible - a complete replacement of the compressor is required.
The influence of the thermostat and sensors on engine starting
Do not discount the temperature control system. Thermostat (in mechanical models) or an electronic sensor (in models with a display) are responsible for sending a signal to turn on the compressor. If the thermostat is stuck open, the compressor will not start at all. But if the contact is broken or oxidized, chaotic clicks may occur.
In refrigerators with a system No Frost defrost sensors play an important role. If the sensor “lies” and tells the controller that the evaporator is cold, although in fact it is covered with ice, or vice versa, the system may behave incorrectly. However, more often, a malfunction of the sensor leads to the fact that the refrigerator simply does not turn off or does not turn on at all.
To check the thermostat, you can temporarily close its contacts (in mechanical models). If after this procedure the compressor starts and starts to freeze, then the problem is in the temperature controller. In electronic systems, diagnosis is possible only with the help of a tester and knowledge of the error codes of a specific model.
Comparative table of symptoms and solutions
For ease of diagnosis, we present a summary table that will help compare observed symptoms with probable causes. This will allow you to quickly navigate the nature of the breakdown.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Frequent clicks, the motor does not starts | Faulty starting relay | Low | Replace the relay |
| Single click, silence, no light | Open circuit, no power | Low | Checking the socket and cord |
| Humming, clicking, heating of the case | Compressor jamming | High | Replacement compressor |
| Clicks are rare, the temperature does not hold | Thermostat is faulty | Medium | Replacing the thermostat/sensor |
| There are clicks, the light is on, it's cold no | Freon leak | High | Searching for leaks, refilling |
As can be seen from the table, the combination of a clicking sound and lack of cold most often indicates the electrical part of the start. However, if refrigerator it hums, but does not freeze, and there are no clicks, the problem may lie in a refrigerant leak. In this case, the motor runs in vain, trying to cool the empty system.
⚠️ Attention: If you find that the condenser tubes (grid at the back) are cold or warm only at the compressor, and the rest of the part is cold, this is a sign of a freon leak. It is impossible to fix this malfunction on your own without vacuuming and filling equipment.
Procedure for action when a malfunction is detected
If you hear that the refrigerator is clickingbut it is not freezing, proceed according to the following algorithm. This will help minimize risks and properly prepare for repairs.
First, unplug the appliance. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes. This is necessary for the thermal relay to cool down and reset the protection. Try turning it on again. If the situation repeats, look for a burning smell, check the outlet.
Next follows the stage of visual and instrumental diagnostics. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to call a specialist. However, if you decide to act on your own, remember: safety comes first.
In cases where the problem lies in the compressor or freon circulation system, a call is required specialist The technician will arrive with the necessary tools, conduct an accurate diagnosis and, if necessary, replace the unit or fix the leak.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if it clicks?
It is strictly not recommended. Constant attempts to start create an overload on the electrical network and the compressor itself. This can lead to a wiring fire or final failure of the motor, the cost of replacing which is much higher than the cost of repairing the relay.
How much does it cost to replace a start relay?
The cost of the relay itself is usually low and depends on the model of the refrigerator. However, if you call a specialist, you will also have to pay the cost of travel and work. In some cases, it is cheaper to call a specialist with a full set of work than to buy parts separately.
Why does the refrigerator click after defrosting?
If after complete defrosting (within 24 hours) the refrigerator begins to click, there may be condensation left in the control system, which closes the contacts. The control board could also fail if moisture gets on it. Let the appliance dry for a few more hours.
How to extend the life of the compressor?
Do not place the refrigerator close to the wall, ensure good ventilation from the back. Do not load the chambers with hot food. Defrost your equipment regularly, unless it is a No Frost model. And most importantly, monitor the stability of the voltage in the network using a surge protector.