The situation when refrigerator compartment ceases to maintain the required temperature, while the freezer continues to freeze food, is one of the most common and insidious malfunctions. Users often encounter the fact that perishable foods spoil in the upper compartment, puddles appear, or, conversely, everything freezes, while in the lower part there is meat standing like a block of ice. Such asymmetry in operation indicates that the compressor is working properly, but the cold distribution or heat removal system is broken.
There is no need to panic in this case, since in 50% of cases the problem is solved without calling a technician and buying expensive spare parts. However, ignoring the signal can lead to failure of the device itself, which will be much more expensive. In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and technical causes of failure, self-diagnosis algorithms and situations when professional intervention is inevitable. compressor, which will cost significantly more. In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and technical causes of failure, self-diagnosis algorithms and situations when professional intervention is inevitable.
Before disassembling the unit, you need to understand the basic principle: if the freezer is working, it means that the refrigerant is circulating, but perhaps does not reach evaporator of the upper compartment, or the thermostat does not receive correct data on the temperature in the main chamber. Modern models with the No Frost system require a special approach to diagnostics, different from old single-compressor units with drip defrosting.
Violation of operating rules and trivial errors
Before looking malfunctions in complex electronics or a freon circulation system, it is worth eliminating the human factor. Often the reason lies in the little things that we overlook in our daily rush. For example, you could accidentally touch the temperature regulator by changing the settings to minimum, or too much warm food has accumulated in the refrigerator compartment, which the standard power simply cannot cope with cooling.
Particular attention should be paid to the location of the products. If you pressed the shelves tightly against the back wall, you could block the supply channels cold air. In No Frost systems, the cold is pumped by a fan through special air ducts; if the path is blocked by bags or pots, circulation stops and the temperature in the upper compartment rises, despite the compressor running.
⚠️ Attention: Never put hot pots in the refrigerator. A sharp jump in temperature not only disrupts the temperature regime, but also causes the compressor to wear out, which can lead to its breakdown in the shortest possible time.
Also check whether the refrigerator door is not tight. Even a small gap or dirty seal allows warm air to pass through, which condenses and creates the illusion of normal operation until the moisture turns into an ice crust that blocks the system.
Problems with the defrosting system (for No Frost models)
In refrigerators with a system No Frost the most common reason for the lack of cold in the main chamber when the freezer is running is a failure in the system defrost. The evaporator, located behind the rear wall, becomes covered with ice over time. In normal operation, this ice should be thawed regularly using Heating element (heating element). If the heating element burns out or the defrost timer is stuck, the ice coat grows and blocks the channels through which the fan drives cold air into the refrigerator compartment.
As a result, the freezer continues to freeze, since the evaporator is located directly in its circuit, and the cold simply does not enter the upper chamber. You may notice that the back wall of the refrigerator compartment has become warm or condensation has appeared on it, although it was previously dry. This is a sure sign that air circulation is broken by an ice plug.
☑️ Diagnostics of the defrost system
To eliminate this problem, it is often necessary to completely defrost the refrigerator in the off state during the day. If after switching on the cold appears, but after a week or two it disappears again, it means that one of the elements of the defrost system (heating element, sensor or timer) is faulty and requires replacement.
Symptoms of a faulty heating element
If the heating element is burned out, it will not heat up when voltage is applied. You can check this with a multimeter in continuity mode: a serviceable element shows resistance, a burned-out element shows an open circuit. Also, visually on the heating element, swelling or ruptures of the spiral may be visible.
Freon leakage: signs and consequences
Refrigerant leakage is a serious technical problem that often develops gradually. Freon is a gas that circulates in a closed circuit. If a microcrack appears in the system (often in the foamed part of the case or in solder joints), the gas begins to escape. The first sign of a leak is that compressor starts to work almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but there is no cold in the chamber or very little of it.
Why does the freezer work? In two-chamber refrigerators with one compressor, freon first passes through the freezer, cooling it, and only then should it enter the refrigerator compartment. If there is a slight leak, the amount of gas is only enough for the first stage of the cycle, so there is ice in the freezer and heat above. Over time, as the volume of freon decreases, the freezer will also stop cooling.
Detecting a leak visually is difficult, since the gas is colorless and odorless. However, there are indirect signs:
- 🔥 Hot condenser: the side walls or the grill at the back are heated unevenly or remain cold.
- ❄️ Local freezing: ice appears only at the beginning of the evaporator circuit, and then the tube is dry.
- 🔊 Constant hum: the motor hums 24 hours a day, without going into rest mode.
It is impossible to fix the leak and fill the refrigerator with freon on your own. Special equipment is required to find the place of depressurization, soldering and vacuuming the system.
Malfunction of the compressor and its components
Although a working freezer usually indicates that the compressor is functioning, there are nuances. In two-compressor models, a separate motor is responsible for each chamber. If you have just such a unit, then a failure of the upper compressor will lead to a loss of cold in the refrigerator compartment when the freezer is fully operational. You can check this by listening to the operation of the equipment: one motor is humming, and the second is silent.
In models with one compressor, the problem may lie in a decrease in its performance. The motor may hum and start, but not create enough pressure to pump freon throughout the entire circuit. This often happens when windings are shorted between turns or valves are worn out. In this case pressure the system drops and the refrigerant does not reach the evaporator of the refrigeration chamber.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor hums, but does not start | The starting relay is faulty | Replacing the relay (you can do it yourself) |
| The motor is hot, running without stopping | Leakage freon or blockage | Call a technician to find a leak |
| A click is heard, then silence | The compressor or starter burnt out | Diagnostics with a multimeter |
| Cold available only at the rear wall | The fan is faulty | Checking and replacing the fan |
Failure of the thermostat or sensors
Electronics are the “brains” of your refrigerator. If thermostat (in mechanical models) or thermal sensor (in electronic) fails, it can transmit incorrect signals to the control module. For example, the sensor may “think” that the chamber is already -5°C, although in fact it is +10°C. Having received a false signal that the temperature has been reached, the compressor turns off or does not turn on for the upper circuit.
In modern models with a display and electronic control, the problem often lies in the oxidation of the sensor contacts or a violation of its calibration. If you notice that the refrigerator turns on too rarely or, conversely, often clicks, but does not get cold, suspect the sensor. Replacing a temperature sensor is a simple procedure, but it requires knowledge of the location of the element in a specific model Indesit, Bosch or Samsung.
Sometimes the problem is solved by rebooting the control system. To do this, you need to unplug the refrigerator for 15-20 minutes. This action resets errors in the module's memory if they were caused by a power surge.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing temperature sensors or heating elements, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Working with live electrical components is dangerous.
Clogged capillary tube
Another technical reason why refrigerator stops cooling the upper chamber is a clogged capillary tubes. A blockage of oxidation products, oil or moisture may form inside the freon circulation system. This plug blocks the flow of refrigerant.
Symptoms of a blockage are similar to a leak: the compressor works, the freezer freezes (since the blockage is often located after the freezer evaporator exits), and the refrigerator compartment is warm. Only a technician with a pressure gauge manifold can distinguish a clog from a leak. If there is a blockage, the pressure at the outlet of the compressor will be significantly higher than normal, and at the inlet - lower.
Removing the blockage requires purging the system with nitrogen at high pressure and replacing the filter-drier. At home, it is impossible to perform this operation efficiently, since a vacuum pump and a supply of refrigerant are required for subsequent refilling.
Frequent questions and answers (FAQ)
Why did the refrigerator stop cooling after defrosting?
If after defrosting the cold did not appear, you may have damaged the system during cleaning (pierced the evaporator), or there is ice in the system that did not have time to melt, and now, Having frozen again, it blocked the channels. The defrost heating element, which you did not check, could also burn out.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not cool?
For a short time - yes, food can be moved down. But long-term operation in this mode is dangerous for the compressor, which will work without interruption, trying to reach the set temperature. This will lead to its overheating and combustion.
How much does it cost to repair if the cold in the refrigerator compartment is lost?
The cost depends on the breakdown. Replacing the sensor or heating element will cost less. If leak detection, soldering and refilling with freon are required, the price will be significantly higher, since this is a labor-intensive process. The technician will tell you the exact amount after diagnosis.
Why does ice freeze in the refrigerator compartment, but there is no cold?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system in No Frost models. Ice builds up on the evaporator (which you cannot see behind the wall), blocks the ventilation, and cold air does not enter the chamber. The products begin to deteriorate, although visually there may be a coat of snow inside.