The situation when the upper chamber in the refrigerator Indesit stops cooling, in while the freezer continues to operate normally, this is one of the most common problems for owners of this equipment. Many users mistakenly believe that since the freezer is functioning, it means the compressor is working and it’s enough to just wait. However, in refrigerators No Frost and static type, such a temperature asymmetry often indicates specific violations in the refrigerant circulation or defrosting system.
Ignoring this symptom can lead to spoilage of food in the main compartment and further complication of repairs. Unlike a complete failure of equipment, when the unit is silent or does not turn on, partial loss of cold requires careful diagnosis. In this article, we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical causes of the malfunction, specific to the brand Indesit, and will help determine whether the problem can be fixed on your own.
It is worth noting right away that modern two-chamber models often have one compressor for both compartments, but different cooling circuits. If you hear the hum of the motor, but it is warm in the upper compartment, it means that the refrigerant either does not physically reach there, or the heat exchange there is disrupted. A critical sign of a serious freon leak is the presence of swelling on the back wall inside the freezer or the appearance of a characteristic oily spot under unit. In such cases, further operation of the equipment without repair is impossible.
The principle of operation of the system and why only the top suffers
To understand the nature of the breakdown, you need to briefly consider the structure of your refrigerator. In models Indesit with the system No Frost cold is produced in the freezer compartment, and then the fan drives the cooled air through special channels into the upper compartment. If air circulation is disrupted, the cold remains below, and room temperature is established above.
In simpler models with a drip system ("crying wall"), the evaporator is also often located in the freezer or behind the back panel, and the cold is transferred through a common partition or through tubes surrounding the chamber. Here, correct operation thermostat and the absence of ice jams play a key role. If the control system “thinks that it is not yet cold enough in the freezer, it will not give a command to cool the upper compartment, even if it is already warm there.
It is also important to consider the tightness of the door. In the upper compartment the door opens much more often than in the freezer. A constant influx of warm, humid air can lead to the rapid fouling of the evaporator with ice, which blocks the channels. As a result, the fan hums idly, and cold air simply cannot get through to the food.
Mechanical obstacles: ice and clogged channels
The most commonplace, but common reason for the lack of cold in the upper chamber is banal ice. In systems No Frost moisture from products is removed through a drainage hole. If this drain becomes clogged with food crumbs or leaks due to a broken defrost heater, the water freezes and forms an ice plug. This ice blocks the air channels coming from the freezer upward.
Visually this can appear in the form of frost on the back wall of the freezer or even in the upper chamber, but the food remains warm. Air physically cannot circulate in a closed loop. In such cases, you can often hear the fan working with overload or making extraneous sounds while trying to push air through the ice barrier.
To eliminate this problem, it is often enough to completely defrost the refrigerator. It is necessary to disconnect the device from the network and leave the doors open for at least 24 hours (preferably for a day so that the ice in hard-to-reach channels has time to melt). After this, you need to thoroughly dry all the cavities and turn on the unit. If after a few hours the cold appeared, the problem was in the ice.
☑️ Correct defrosting of the refrigerator
Malfunctions of the defrost system (No Frost)
If after defrosting the refrigerator Indesit worked for a week or two, and then the situation repeated itself (the top does not freeze again), which means the automatic defrosting system has failed. This system consists of several key elements: (thermostat) and (or electronic control module). data-i="87">In normal mode, at certain intervals the heating element is turned on, which melts the frost frozen on the evaporator. Water flows into the pan. If the heating element is burned out or the sensor is “stuck” in the “cold” position, the control module will never start the defrost mode. The evaporator becomes overgrown with a “fur coat”, which turns into a monolithic piece of ice, blocking ventilation. Defrost heating element, defrost sensor (thermostat) and timer (or electronic control module).
In normal mode, the heating element is turned on at certain intervals, which melts the frost frozen on the evaporator. Water flows into the pan. If the heating element is burned out or the sensor is “stuck” in the “cold” position, the control module will never start the defrost mode. The evaporator becomes overgrown with a “fur coat”, which turns into a monolithic piece of ice, blocking ventilation.
Diagnostics of these elements requires a multimeter. It is necessary to “ring” the heating element for an open circuit and check the sensor. Often in refrigerators Indesit it is the fuse of the heating element that fails, which burns out when overheated, opening the circuit. Replacing these parts usually returns the unit to operability.
⚠️ Attention: When checking the defrost heating element, make sure that the refrigerator is completely disconnected from the network. A faulty heating element may have damaged insulation, which creates a risk of electric shock when voltage is applied.
Problems with the thermostat and sensors
In models with mechanical control, the temperature is controlled thermostat. This device measures the temperature in the evaporator or chamber and closes/opens the electrical circuit of the compressor. If the thermostat is installed in the freezer compartment (which is often the case in dual-compressor or specific models) or its capillary tube is not positioned correctly, it may not “feel” the heat in the upper compartment.
In more modern models Indesit with electronic control, the thermostat function perform temperature sensors (NTC thermistors). One sensor controls the freezer, the other controls the refrigerator compartment. If the upper chamber sensor fails and shows the control module that there is “frost -30°C”, although in fact there is +20°C, the compressor simply will not turn on to cool the top.
A symptom of a malfunctioning sensor or thermostat is often an unnaturally long operation of the compressor without shutdowns (if it is trying to cool what not cooling) or, conversely, switching on too rarely. Replacing the sensor is a simple procedure, but it requires selecting an element with similar resistance parameters.
How to check a thermostat without instruments?
Remove the thermostat and lower its sensitive part (capillary) into a container with water at a temperature of about 5-7 degrees. If the contacts do not click after a few minutes (check with an ohmmeter), the device is faulty. However, for accurate diagnostics it is still better to use a multimeter.
Refrigerant leak and capillary system blockage
These are the most serious technical malfunctions. If there is a freon leak in the system No Frost or static, the refrigerant becomes insufficient to complete the entire cycle. Since the freezer compartment is located closer to the outlet of the compressor or has priority in the cycle, it continues to freeze (often even harder than usual, working non-stop), and the gas simply does not reach the upper compartment or reaches without pressure.
The second option is clogged capillary tube. The freon circulation system has a very narrow tube that easily becomes clogged with oil oxidation products or moisture. An ice or mud plug forms. Freon cannot circulate, the pressure drops, and the upper chamber stops cooling. A telltale sign of a clog is that the condenser (grid at the back) may only be partially cold or warm, rather than hot over the entire area.
To repair in both cases, you will need to call a technician. It is necessary to find the location of the leak (often this is a foamed evaporator inside the housing or tube in a foamed layer), solder it, evacuate the system and fill it with new freon. It is impossible to perform these actions independently without a vacuum pump and scales for refueling.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Characteristic symptom | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|---|
| Top does not freeze, there is ice on the back wall | Malfunction of the defrost system | Ice build-up on the evaporator | Medium (replacement of the heating element/sensor) |
| The compressor hums constantly, top warm | Freon leak | Cold condenser, swelling inside | High (needs a technician) |
| Cold disappears periodically | Clogged capillary tubes | Clicks, gurgling, cyclical | High (system purging) |
| Heat only after defrosting | Frozen channels | Complete defrosting helps day | Low (drain check) |
Rare causes: fan and damper
In some models Indesit an air damper is installed between the chambers, which regulates the flow of cold air. It can be controlled mechanically or electronically. If the damper is stuck in the closed position or the damper drive is burned out, the cold does not physically enter the upper chamber. This is less common than problems with defrosting, but this option cannot be ruled out.
It is also worth checking fan. In systems No Frost it is he who drives the air. If its impeller is covered with ice or the fan motor is burned out, there will be no circulation. Usually, if the fan breaks down, the freezer does not freeze (or freezes very weakly), but in some designs the flow can be selectively blocked. Listen to the operation of the unit: if the compressor is working, but there is no characteristic wind noise inside, the problem is in the fan or air path.
Another rarity is problems with the magnetic valve (in two-compressor systems, although Indesit usually there is one compressor). If the valve does not open the upper chamber circuit, the refrigerant does not circulate there. Diagnostics requires professional equipment to check electrical signals on the valve.
When you need to call a technician: final summary
To summarize, we can say that if your refrigerator Indesit stops freezing in the upper chamber, the algorithm of actions should be as follows. First, rule out simple causes: check that the doors are tightly closed, make sure that food is not blocking the air ducts, and carry out a complete defrost. If this does not help, most likely the problem is electrical (heating elements, sensors) or a freon leak.
You can replace the thermostat, sensors or defrost heating elements yourself if you have the skills to work with a multimeter and a screwdriver. However, work related to refrigerant (freon) requires a license and special equipment. An attempt to solder the tubes yourself without evacuation of the system will lead to rapid breakdown of the compressor due to moisture and air inside the circuit.
If after defrosting the refrigerator worked for less than a week and again stopped freezing the top, get ready for a visit from a specialist. Ignoring the problem will cause the compressor to wear out, trying to compensate for the lack of cold, which can ultimately lead to its combustion, and replacing the compressor is already half the cost of a new refrigerator.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to break through ice plugs in the channels with sharp objects or boiling water. Damage to plastic air ducts or the evaporator (if it is hidden in foam) will make repairs economically unfeasible.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
How long should defrosting last to eliminate the ice plug?
To completely eliminate ice blockages in the hidden channels of the system No Frost The refrigerator must stand unplugged from the network with the doors open for at least 24 hours. The standard 8-10 hours can melt visible ice, but not the plug inside the air ducts.
Is it possible to temporarily use the refrigerator if the top is not freezing?
It can be used, but it is not advisable. The compressor will work almost non-stop, trying to reach the set temperature, which will lead to overheating and increased energy consumption. Food in the upper compartment will quickly spoil.
Why did the refrigerator work after defrosting, but after 3 days it stopped again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrosting system. The ice melted during the downtime, the channels became free, and the cold began to creep in. But since the heating element or defrost sensor is broken, during the next operation ice will again build up on the evaporator, which will block the channels. The faulty part needs to be replaced.
Where is the defrost sensor in the Indesit refrigerator?
In most models Indesit the defrost sensor (thermostat) is located on the evaporator in the freezer. To get to it, you need to remove the back plastic panel inside the freezer. It looks like a small “tablet” or capsule attached to the evaporator tubes.