Storing the roots of perennial flowers in winter is a necessary measure for gardeners who purchased planting material long before the start of the season or are saving plants from sudden frosts. Phloxes, like many other rhizomatous crops, tolerate low temperatures well if their root system is at rest. However, there comes a time when the artificial wintering must end, and the plant requires transplantation into soil or a pot for further growth.
The question of when exactly to take Phlox paniculata out of the refrigerator worries many, because waking up too early can lead to depletion of the buds, and late awakening can lead to stretching pale sprouts in the dark. The critical moment is the appearance of the first green shoots 1-2 cm long, which signals the beginning of active vegetation. It is during this period that it is necessary to urgently change the conditions of maintenance, providing the plant with light and warmth.
In this article we will analyze all the intricacies of the process of awakening phloxes, determine the optimal calendar dates for different climatic zones and discuss typical mistakes that can destroy planting material. The correct start of the growing season is the key to lush flowering and health of the perennial in the future.
⚠️ Attention: If you find mold or rot on the roots during storage, immediately treat with a fungicide and remove the damaged areas, otherwise the plant will die after planting.
Reasons for storing phlox in the refrigerator
The need to preserve phlox rhizomes in conditions 0...+4°C often arises due to the purchase of planting material at the wrong time. Spring deliveries to garden centers can begin as early as February or March, when the ground on the site is covered with snow or frozen. In such conditions, planting in open ground is impossible, and keeping the apartment warm will lead to the rapid growth of weak, exhausted shoots.
The refrigerator imitates natural wintering conditions, allowing the plant to save energy until it warms up enough for rooting. This is especially true for regions with short springs and late snow melting. Dormant roots do not require light and minimally consume stored nutrients. soil warms up enough for rooting. This is especially true for regions with short springs and late snow melting. Dormant roots do not require light and minimally consume stored nutrients.
In addition, storage in the refrigerator allows you to save plants in the event of a sudden return of cold weather, when planted phloxes may suffer from frost. Packed in wet peat or sphagnum, they will calmly wait out the unfavorable period. It is only important to regularly check the humidity of the substrate so that the roots do not dry out.
Optimal timing for removing planting material
Determining the exact time when you need to remove phlox from the refrigerator depends on two factors: the condition of the plant itself and the weather conditions of your region. If the rhizome was at a temperature of about +2...+4°C, the awakening processes are slow. However, as soon as the temperature rises higher +5...+7°C, the activation of life processes begins.
In central Russia and similar climatic zones, the optimal time for extraction is considered to be the period when the snow has melted and the soil has thawed to the depth of a spade bayonet. This usually happens in the second half of April or early May. If you plan to grow phlox in indoor pots, then you can get them in early March, so that by the time they are planted in the ground you will get a strong plant with a developed root system.
There is a direct relationship between the time of extraction and the temperature of the content. If it was warmer in the refrigerator +5°C, the buds could begin to grow at the end of winter. In this case, you cannot hesitate: the plant requires urgent planting in the ground or a pot of soil and exposure to light. Prolonged exposure of germinating phlox in the dark will lead to the formation of long, brittle and pale sprouts that will take a long time to recover.
Diagnostics of the condition of the roots before planting
Before planting, it is necessary to carefully examine the planting material. The roots should be elastic, with live renewal buds. The presence of dry, blackened areas requires immediate attention. A healthy phlox root has a characteristic odor and a dense structure.
Particular attention should be paid root collar. New shoots are just beginning. If it is damaged by rot, the plant may not sprout. If soft areas are detected, they are carefully cut out with a sterile instrument, and the sections are treated with crushed charcoal or brilliant green.
Below is a table that helps assess the condition of the rhizome and decide on further actions:
| Appearance | Kidney condition | Action |
|---|---|---|
| The roots are elastic, light | Dormant, not swollen | Can be stored further or planted |
| Roots slightly wrinkled | Sleeping | Soak in water for 2-3 hours before planting |
| There are green sprouts 1-2 cm | Active growth | Urgent planting in soil/pot |
| Roots are soft, dark | Absent or black | Clean up rot, treat with fungicide |
⚠️ Attention: Do not use chlorine-containing substances to treat cuts, they can cause tissue burns and destroy the plant. Use only garden pitch, coal or specialized preparations.
Preparing for planting: step-by-step instructions
The process of awakening and preparing phlox for planting requires consistency. Sudden changes in temperature and humidity can be stressful for the plant. Therefore, when you take the rhizomes out of the refrigerator, do not rush to immediately plant them in the ground. Let them sit at room temperature in the package for about 30-60 minutes for acclimatization.
Next follows the stage of preparing the soil and container. If you plan to plant directly in open ground, make sure that the soil has warmed up. For home growing, 0.5-1 liter pots with drainage holes are suitable. The soil should be loose, nutritious and neutral.
☑️ Checklist for preparing phlox
An important step is soaking. If the roots look dry, immerse them in the solution Kornevina or Heteroauxina for several hours. This will help restore turgor and start active root formation. After soaking, you can begin planting, straightening the roots and carefully covering them with soil.
Technology for planting in a pot and open ground
When planting in a pot A layer of expanded clay or broken brick must be placed on the bottom. Phloxes do not tolerate stagnant water, and good drainage is the key to their health. The root collar is buried 2-3 cm to protect the developing buds from drying out. After planting, the soil is compacted and watered abundantly.
If you plant phlox immediately in open ground, choose a sunny place or light partial shade. The soil is dug up in advance, adding compost and mineral fertilizers. A hole is dug of such a size that the roots are freely located inside. The distance between plants should be at least 40-50 cm, since phlox grow quickly.
The first time after planting, plants require shading from direct sunlight, especially if the weather is hot. Mulching the tree trunk circle will help retain moisture and prevent overheating of the roots. Regular watering in the first two weeks is critical for survival.
What to do if the sprouts are stretched out?
If the sprouts still stretch out and turn pale due to lack of light, do not despair. When planting in the ground, they can be buried down to the cotyledon leaves (if any) or simply sprinkled with earth, leaving only the tops on the surface. The phlox stem is capable of forming additional roots, which will help the plant recover.
Care for awakened phloxes
After the phloxes have begun to grow, they require adequate nutrition and light. If the plants are indoors, provide them with a temperature no higher +18...+20°C and maximum lighting. A lack of light will lead to stretching of the internodes and weakening of the stem.
Water should be moderate but regular. Overdrying the earthen coma is detrimental to young roots, and overmoistening can cause rot. Use settled water at room temperature. Two weeks after planting, you can carry out the first fertilizing with a weak solution of complex fertilizer.
Watch for the appearance of pests. Young, tender shoots may attract aphids or spider mites. Preventive inspection and timely treatment with insecticides (if necessary) will preserve the decorative appearance of plants. A healthy plant quickly gains green mass and prepares for budding.
Typical mistakes and ways to eliminate them
One of the most common mistakes is removing plants from the cold too early without being able to provide them with the proper conditions. Phloxes that begin to grow in February require additional lighting and coolness, which is difficult to organize in an ordinary apartment. The result is pale “threads” that remain sick for a long time after planting.
Another mistake is ignoring the condition of the roots. Planting rotten material without pre-treatment leads to the loss of the plant. Also, gardeners often forget about deepening the root collar, which leads to drying out of the renewal buds, especially in dry, windy weather.
Do not forget about crop rotation. Phlox should not be planted in a place where other plants from the cyanaceae family or those susceptible to similar diseases grew before them. This reduces the risk of infections and soil depletion.
Is it possible to store phlox in the refrigerator all summer?
No, you cannot store phlox in the refrigerator all summer. At a temperature +4°C the plant will not be able to develop normally, and at higher temperatures it will simply rot due to high humidity and lack of air circulation. The refrigerator is a temporary storage for the dormant period, but not a place for the growing season.
What to do if the buds turn black?
If the buds turn black, but the roots remain elastic, there is a chance to save the plant. Carefully cut out the blackened part to living tissue, treat the cut with a fungicide (for example Fundazol or Maxim) and try to plant it in sterile soil. If the entire root collar has turned black, the plant most likely died.
How to distinguish a dormant bud from a dead one?
A dormant bud usually has a scaly structure and dense to the touch. With a careful incision, green or whitish living tissue is visible underneath. A dead bud is dry, crumbles, or, conversely, becomes watery and dark. Living tissue always differs in color from dead tissue.
Do you need to trim old stems before storage?
Yes, before storing in the refrigerator, all old stems must be cut to a height of 2-3 cm from the root collar. This will prevent moisture evaporation and rotting of the remaining stem, which can spread to the root. It is also advisable to treat the sections.