Modern kitchen dictates its own rules of ergonomics, and it often happens that the refrigerator door, when opening, blocks the passage or prevents you from sitting comfortably near the work area. It is in such situations that the option re-hanging doorscomes to the rescue. This is a design feature laid down by engineers, which allows you to change the opening side of the door from right to left or vice versa, without compromising the tightness and functionality of the unit.
Unlike old Soviet models, which were often monolithic and did not require user intervention, modern ones LG, Samsung, Bosch i Indesit are designed taking into account installation flexibility. However, not all owners know that their equipment supports this function, and those who know are afraid of damaging the hinges or breaking the seal. The process requires care, but it can be done at home if you have a basic set of tools and an understanding of the hinge design.
Design features and model compatibility
Before you take a screwdriver, you need to clearly determine whether your specific device supports the ability to overhang. Reversible doors - these are not just symmetrical holes in the case, this complex fastening system. If the manufacturer has not provided spare mounting holes or alternative sets of fittings in the kit, intervention can lead to irreversible damage.
It is worth considering that in two-chamber models (with a separate freezer) the procedure becomes more complicated. You will have to reposition both the main refrigerator and the top freezer, synchronizing their operation. In models like Side-by-Side or French Door, re-hanging is often impossible or requires calling a certified specialist due to the complex system of hinges and sensors.
⚠️ Attention: If there are no threaded holes on the inside of the case on the opposite side of the current hinges, independent re-hanging is not possible. Attempting to drill new holes will damage the thermal insulation and lead to corrosion.
The key element is the system hinges. They can be open or hidden. Hidden hinges, often found in built-in appliances, require the removal of decorative panels, which adds to the process. It is also important to check the presence of magnetic lock or a latch, which is often located on one side and requires rearranging the counter part.
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
To successfully complete the re-hanging task, you will need no only desire, but also the right tools. The basis is a set hex wrenches (usually metric), since modern equipment is assembled using just such a fastening system. You may also need open-end wrenches, flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, and in some cases, a socket head with a wrench.
Pay special attention to preparing the site. The refrigerator is a heavy unit and will have to be tilted or moved. Cover the floor with a soft material, such as a blanket or cardboard, to avoid scratching the flooring or damaging the bottom of the refrigerator itself. Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the device from the power supply.
☑️ Preparation for rehanging the doors
It is important to clear the door shelves from food and removable elements in advance. This will reduce the weight of the structure and prevent glass shelves from breaking or liquids from spilling during careless movement. If your model has a display or control panel on the door, make sure that the length of the connecting cables will allow you to move the door to the other side without tension.
Step-by-step instructions: dismantling the top hinge and sash
The process starts from the top of the unit. Locate the decorative cap on the top hinge and carefully remove it. Using the appropriate wrench, unscrew the mounting bolts. Here it is critical that an assistant hold the door, since after removing the top fastening it will only be supported by the lower hinge and may fall.
After removing the top hinge, you need to dismantle the middle one (if you have a two-chamber refrigerator) or immediately go to the bottom one if the model is single-chamber. When removing the middle partition or hinge, it is important not to lose bushings and washers, which ensure smooth movement and correct positioning of the sash. Write down or photograph the order in which they are installed.
⚠️ Attention: When removing the door from its hinges, pay attention to the angle of inclination. A sudden lowering may damage the lower hinge or deform the metal of the housing at the attachment point.
When the sash is removed, place it in a safe place, placing it face up on a soft surface so as not to scratch the coating. Now you need to dismantle the handle if it is asymmetrical, or move it to the opposite side using the holes provided by the manufacturer. Often, handles are attached to screws, access to which is blocked by plugs.
What to do if the bolts are rusty?
If you find that the mounting bolts are heavily oxidized and cannot be unscrewed, do not use excessive force so as not to strip the threads. Treat the joint with a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40) and leave for 15-20 minutes. After this, try to carefully remove the bolt. If this does not help, you can slightly warm up the joint with a hairdryer, but be careful with the plastic elements.
Flipping the bottom hinge and installing the sash
The most important step is working with the bottom support loop. In most models it is bolted from below. After unscrewing them, the loop is removed along with the axle. Your task is to move this structure to the opposite side. To do this, the housing must have symmetrical threaded holes, closed with plastic plugs.
Remove the plugs from the new side of the installation and insert them into the old holes to maintain an aesthetic appearance. Install the bottom hinge to the new location by tightening the mounting bolts tightly. Make sure the hinge axis is pointing straight up and vertical. Now you can put the door in place by sliding it onto the lower axis.
After installing the lower part, you need to mount the upper hinge on the new side. It is important to follow the sequence of tightening the bolts: first tighten all the screws by hand to avoid distortion, and only then tighten them evenly with a wrench. The hermetic seal must adhere to the body evenly around the entire perimeter.
Adjusting fittings and eliminating distortions
After the door is installed, it may hang unevenly or not fit tightly. This is normal, as final adjustment is required. Inspect the gap between the door and the body around the entire perimeter. It should be the same. If the gap is wider at the top than at the bottom, you need to loosen the top hinge, level the door and tighten the bolts again. Pay special attention to the work of the magnetic latches. If the door begins to close too tightly or, conversely, does not reach the end, check the position of the lock striker. It may also need to be moved to the new side or the height adjusted. In some models
Pay special attention to work closers and magnetic latches. If the door begins to close too tightly or, conversely, does not reach the end, check the position of the lock striker. It may also need to be moved to the new side or the height adjusted. Some models Bosch or Siemens a special adjustment screw is provided for this in the lower loop.
| Problem | Possible cause | Solution method |
|---|---|---|
| The door does not fit tightly | The seal is dirty or misaligned | Clean the seal, adjust the height of the hinges |
| It is difficult to open the door | Pressure difference or tight hinges | Check the ventilation holes, lubricate the hinges |
| A squeak is heard | Lack of lubrication in the hinges | Apply silicone or lithium grease |
| The door is skewed | Uneven tightening of the bolts | Loosen and re-tighten the fasteners evenly |
Do not ignore minor defects. Even a slight misalignment over time will lead to the fact that sealing rubber begins to wear out, and the cold will evaporate, causing the compressor to work with overload.
Nuances for equipment with displays and the No Frost system
Owning models with a control panel on the door (Smart Door) makes its own adjustments. When rehanging, it is extremely important not to damage the electrical cables running from the case to the display. Their length is often designed end to end. Before removing the door, make sure that the wires are disconnected from the connectors (after photographing the connection diagram) or have sufficient range.
For systems No Frost it is critical not to disturb the geometry of the camera. If the door is skewed, the flow of cold air may be distributed unevenly, which will lead to the formation of ice in some areas and thawing of food in others. After installation, be sure to check the operation of the fan and dampers, if they are visible.
⚠️ Attention: On models with electronics on the door, do not try to force the cables. This can lead to broken contacts and costly repair of the control module.
It is also worth noting that in some premium models the door opening sensors (door open sensor) are located with a magnet in the housing, and the response part is located in the door. When re-hanging, do not forget to move the magnet to the corresponding hole on the other side, otherwise the refrigerator will constantly “think” that the door is open and sound signals.
Frequent errors and checking the result
After finishing installation, do not rush to load the products. Carry out a test run. Open and close the door several times. The cotton should be soft but firm. Check the operation magnetic valve: when the door is opened, the light should come on (if there is a lamp inside), and the compressor should stop working (although in modern inverter models this may not be so noticeable).
One of the common mistakes is loss calibration washers, which are installed between the hinge and the body to compensate for unevenness of the floor or body. If you lose these parts, the door may begin to squeak or wobble. They also often forget to replace the plugs on the old holes, which spoils the appearance.
If after all the manipulations you notice that the door opens on its own or, conversely, requires force to close, it means that the refrigerator is not level. Adjust the front support legs. Usually they are unscrewed with a key or by hand, allowing you to lift the front of the unit so that the door closes under the influence of gravity.
How to check the tightness after rehanging?
There is a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp a piece of paper over the refrigerator door so that half is inside and half is outside. Try to pull out the sheet. If it is pulled out with noticeable force around the entire perimeter, the seal is good. If the sheet slides freely in some place, the seal is broken and the hinge needs to be adjusted.
Questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it possible to hang the door on the refrigerator if there are no holes on the other side?
No, this is impossible without breaking the design. The absence of holes means that the model is not intended for re-hanging. You cannot drill new holes, as you will damage the thermal insulation layer and may touch the cooling circuit, which will lead to freon leakage.
Do you need to defrost the refrigerator before re-hanging?
Complete defrosting is not necessary if you work quickly. However, if there is a lot of ice in the freezer, it is better to wait until it defrosts so that water does not pour out when the unit is tilted. The main thing is to be sure to disconnect the device from the network before starting work.
How long does the re-hanging process take?
For an experienced craftsman this takes 15-20 minutes. For a beginner doing this for the first time and carefully, the process can take from 40 minutes to 1 hour, including time for searching for tools and studying the instructions.
What to do if, after rehanging, there is a gap between the door and the body?
A small gap is acceptable, but if it is large, check whether the refrigerator is level on the floor. Use a building level. Also make sure that all the hinge bolts are tightened evenly and not overtightened, which could cause metal distortion.