The situation when you open the refrigerator door and feel that it has become warm inside and the food has begun to spoil is familiar to many. This always happens at the most inopportune moment, causing panic and a lot of questions. If the refrigerator has stopped freezing, this does not always mean an expensive breakdown that requires an immediate call to a technician. In some cases, the reason lies in small things that can be fixed on your own in a few minutes.
First of all, you need to assess the scale of the problem: is one chamber or both not working? Has there been any extraneous noise, or, conversely, has the device become quieter than usual? Understanding the accompanying symptoms will help narrow down your troubleshooting. It is important to act quickly, but without sudden movements, so as not to aggravate the condition of the unit.
In this article we will analyze in detail the main reasons why the equipment could fail, and the algorithm of actions for diagnosis. You will learn how to distinguish a simple thermostat overload from a serious refrigerant leak. A competent approach to the problem will save you money and time.
Checking the simplest causes: electricity and settings
Before looking for complex technical faults, it is worth eliminating basic operating errors. It often happens that refrigerator it is working properly, but the settings were accidentally lost or there was a short-term blackout. Carefully inspect the back panel of the device for a loose plug or damaged power cord.
Check the temperature settings. If one of the household members accidentally switches the regulator to the “Vacation” mode or simply increases the temperature, the unit will stop generating cold with the required intensity. Modern models with electronic control are characterized by malfunctions of the control board after power surges.
Make sure the door is firmly seated against the chassis. Even a small gap leads to a constant flow of warm air, which the cooling system cannot cope with. Check the sealing rubber for cracks or dirt that interfere with hermetic closure.
Problems with the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the common reasons why the refrigerator has stopped freezingis the failure of the thermostat. This small device is responsible for turning the compressor on and off depending on the temperature inside the chambers. If it is “stuck” in the “off” position, the motor simply will not start.
In models with the No Frost system, air sensors are responsible for the temperature. Their failure leads to the controller receiving incorrect data and not giving a command to start the cooling cycle. Replacing these elements usually does not require complex equipment, but requires careful disassembly.
- ❄️ Symptoms of a malfunction: the compressor is silent, although there is voltage in the network, or works without stopping, without turning off.
- 🔧 Diagnostics: testing the thermostat contacts with a multimeter in different positions of the handle.
- 💡 Solution: installing a new thermostat with similar characteristics.
It is worth noting that in two-chamber models there is often a separate thermostat for each chamber. If the freezer is working, but the refrigerator compartment is warm, the problem may be in the local sensor of the upper compartment. In such cases, replacing the element solves the problem completely.
☑️ Diagnostics of the thermostat
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The heart of any refrigerator is the compressor. If it fails, the unit stops freezing completely. However, it often happens that the motor itself is intact, and the problem lies in the start-up relay. This device starts the engine and protects it from overloads.
Signs of a malfunction of the compressor or its piping may be characteristic clicks when trying to start, a hum without further rotation of the shaft, or complete silence. If you hear the motor trying to start, but immediately stalls, most likely the relay has burned out or an inter-turn short circuit has occurred in the windings.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| Humming and clicks, but does not start | Faulty start relay | Low |
| Quiet humming, hot body | Stuck compressor | High (replacement) |
| Complete silence, light is on | Open circuit or thermostat | Average |
| Works jerkily | Problems with voltage or relay | Average |
Replacing a compressor is a complex process that requires evacuation of the system and charging with freon. It is almost impossible to perform this operation independently without special equipment. If the diagnosis of a “burnt out motor” is confirmed, it is wiser to contact a service center.
⚠️ Attention: If you smell burning or see melted wires in the compressor area, immediately unplug the device. Operation of such a device is a fire hazard.
Freon leakage and capillary tube blockage
The refrigerant (freon) circulates in a closed circuit. If a microcrack has formed somewhere, the gas gradually escapes and the cooling efficiency decreases. At first the refrigerator starts to freeze worse, then it stops completely. Leakage can occur due to metal corrosion or mechanical damage.
Clogged capillary tube is another common problem. An ice plug may form inside the thin tube or oil oxidation products may accumulate. This blocks the circulation of freon, and the cold does not enter the chambers. Visually, this is often manifested by swelling of the rear wall or uneven cooling.
How to detect a leak visually?
Sometimes the location of the leak can be found by oily spots on the tubes or in the compressor area. Another sign may be a black coating on the evaporator. However, in 80% of cases, leaks are invisible to the eye and require searching with a soapy solution or a leak detector.
To eliminate these faults, you need to find the location of the damage, solder it and refill the system with refrigerant. The quantity and type of freon are strictly regulated by the manufacturer. A lack or excess of gas will lead to improper operation of the unit.
Failures in the defrost system (for No Frost models)
In refrigerators with the system No Frost the serviceability of the defrost system is critically important. It prevents ice from fouling the evaporator. If one of the elements of this circuit breaks, the ice blocks the fans and cold air stops flowing into the chamber.
The main elements of the defrost system: timer (or electronic module), heating element (heater) and thermal fuse. If the heating element burns out, the ice does not melt. If the thermal fuse is faulty, it opens the circuit and prevents the heating from turning on. The timer may simply “freeze” in cooling mode.
- 🧊 Sign: a layer of snow or ice is visible on the back wall of the freezer, although the fan is humming.
- 🔌 Check: ring the heating element and thermal fuse for resistance.
- ⏱ Solution: replacement a burnt-out defrost circuit element.
Often users try to defrost the refrigerator manually by turning it off for a day. This is a temporary measure: after switching on, the system will accumulate ice again and stop freezing after a few days. A full repair is required.
The influence of external factors and operating conditions
Do not forget that the operation of the refrigerator is influenced by external conditions. Placing the unit next to a radiator, stove, or in direct sunlight causes the compressor to wear out. In such conditions, it can simply overheat and go into protection, stopping freezing.
It is also important to observe the temperature regime in the room. Most models are not designed to operate at temperatures below +10°C or above +32°C. In winter, in an unheated dacha, the refrigerator may simply not start due to thickened oil in the compressor.
⚠️ Attention: If you transported the refrigerator in winter, do not turn it on immediately after bringing it into a warm room. Let it sit for at least 4-6 hours so that the condensation evaporates and the oil warms up.
Check whether the refrigerator is too close to the wall. For normal operation of the condenser (grid at the back), a free flow of air is necessary. The gap should be at least 5-10 cm on all sides.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why does the refrigerator work, but does not freeze, although the light is on?
The light indicates the presence of voltage in the network, but not operation compressor. Most likely, the starter, thermostat is faulty, or there is a freon leak. It is necessary to listen to whether the engine is humming from behind.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if it does not freeze well?
It is not recommended to operate the equipment in this mode. The compressor will run non-stop, trying to build up temperature, causing it to burn out quickly. Products can also spoil.
How long should you wait after defrosting before turning on?
The optimal waiting time is from 2 to 4 hours. During this time, moisture will completely evaporate from hard-to-reach places, and the electrical circuit will be restored.
Why does the upper chamber freeze, but the lower one does not?
In two-compressor models, this means a breakdown of one of the compressors or thermostats. In single-compressor units, a clogged capillary, a freon leak, or a malfunction of the defrost system (clogged channel with ice) is likely.
Is the smell that appears after a breakdown dangerous?
If the smell resembles burnt rubber or plastic, this is a sign of overheating of the wiring or motor windings. This smell is dangerous; the device must be turned off immediately. The smell of dampness indicates the growth of bacteria due to spoilage of food.