The situation when freezer compartment the food freezes properly, but the main compartment is warm, is one of the most common complaints from owners of household appliances. This phenomenon can occur suddenly, and often users do not understand why compressor there is a hum, but there is no cold. This behavior is typical for models with a system No Frost and for classic two-chamber units with one motor.
The reason lies in a violation of the refrigerant circulation or a failure in the temperature control system. Under normal conditions, cold air or freon is distributed evenly, but if one of the units breaks down, this balance is disrupted. It is important not to panic and carry out initial diagnostics to understand the scale of the problem.
In this article we will look in detail at the mechanical and electrical causes of the malfunction. You will learn how to check evaporator, thermostat other nodes yourself without calling a technician. Understanding the principles of operation will help you avoid wasting money on diagnostics or, conversely, call for service in time.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear gurgling or hissing inside the housing, this may indicate a freon leak. Prolonged operation of the compressor in this mode can lead to its complete combustion.
Problems with air circulation in the No Frost system
In refrigerators equipped with the system No Frostcooling of the main chamber occurs due to forced air circulation. Fan drives cold air masses from the freezer into the upper compartment. If this process is disrupted, the freezer continues to operate at full capacity, and the refrigerator remains at room temperature.
One of the main reasons is freezing evaporator. An ice “coat” can completely block the channels through which air enters the refrigerator compartment. Often this is due to a malfunction defrost heating element or timer that stops starting the defrost cycle. As a result, ice blocks the operation of the fan
It is also worth checking yourself fan. It may jam due to debris or worn bearings. If the blades do not rotate, cold air remains in the freezer. In some models Indesit or Atlant the door position sensor can block the motor from starting if the mechanism is stuck.
For diagnostics, you need to remove the back panel in the freezer and visually assess the condition evaporator. If it is covered with a thick layer of ice and the channels are clogged, the equipment will need to be completely defrosted within 24 hours. This is the easiest way to check whether the problem is related to circulation.
Faults of the thermostat and temperature sensors
Thermoregulator (or thermostat) is a device that commands the compressor to turn on or off based on the temperature inside the chambers. If this device fails, it may “think” that it is cold enough in the refrigerator and not start the motor, although in reality it is warm there.
Modern models with electronic control use temperature sensorsinstead of a mechanical thermostat. Their readings are read control module. If the sensor in the refrigerator compartment transmits incorrect data (for example, it shows +2°C instead of the real +15°C), the compressor simply will not turn on. At the same time, cold may remain in the freezer due to a residual effect or a separate circuit.
Often the problem lies in oxidation of the contacts or breakage of the wiring going to the sensor. Vibration during compressor operation breaks down connections over time. Checking the continuity of the circuit using a multimeter is the first step in diagnosing the electrical part.
How to check a thermostat with a multimeter?
To check a mechanical thermostat, you need to remove it and immerse the sensitive tube in ice water. Then ring the contacts: if the circuit does not close when cooling, the device is faulty. In electronic models, the resistance of the sensor is measured, which should change depending on the temperature.
Replacing the thermostat is a procedure that can be done with your own hands if you have basic skills in working with tools. However, in complex electronic systems it is better to contact specialists, as it may be necessary to re-flash the control module control module.
Refrigerant leak and capillary tube clogged
If compressor works continuously without turning off, but there is no cold in the main chamber, it is high probability of leakage freon. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit. If there is a microcrack in the pipeline or evaporator, the gas gradually evaporates. Its quantity is only enough to cool the first section of the circuit (freezer), and it no longer reaches the refrigerator compartment.
Another common mechanical problem is clogged capillary tube. An ice or oil-paraffin plug may have formed in the system. This prevents the normal flow of freon. The pressure in the system increases, the compressor is overloaded, but the cooling efficiency drops to zero.
Signs of these problems are often:
- 🔥 Hot condenser (grid at the back) only partially or only near the compressor.
- ❄️ Blistering of the back wall inside the refrigerator (a symptom of evaporator corrosion).
- 🔊 Change in the sound of the motor (louder hum or clicks).
⚠️ Attention: Filling yourself with freon or trying to clean the capillary system without a vacuum pump and special tools is prohibited. This requires licensed equipment and skills.
A call to a technician is required to fix a leak or blockage. He will conduct pressure testing the system with nitrogen to find the location of the damage, replace the filter drier and fill the equipment with new refrigerant according to the rate indicated on the nameplate.
Failure of the compressor and start relay
Compressor —this is the heart of the refrigerator. If it is faulty, all refrigerant circulation is disrupted. However, it often happens that the motor itself is intact, but does not start due to a breakdown Starting relay. This small device is responsible for starting the engine and protecting it from overloads.
If the relay is “stuck” or burned out, the compressor may hum, trying to start, but after a few seconds click and turn off. In this case, the freezer may remain cold for some time, but gradually the temperature will begin to rise. In some cases, the compressor works, but does not develop the required pressure due to wear of the valves.
Diagnostics of the relay is simple: you need to remove it and shake it. If a ringing sound is heard inside (as if from a broken stone), it means that the bimetallic plate or core is destroyed. Replacing the relay takes 10 minutes and is inexpensive. This is one of the most common reasons why equipment Beko, LG or Samsung stops cooling.
☑️ Compressor diagnostics
If the problem is in the compressor itself (an interturn short circuit or a wedge of the piston group), it will need to be replaced. This is an expensive repair, which is often comparable to the purchase of new equipment, especially for older models.
Comparative table of symptoms and causes
To make it easier for you to navigate a possible breakdown, we have compiled a table linking external signs with probable causes. This will help narrow down your search before calling a specialist.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Required actions |
|---|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the refrigerator is warm, the compressor is silent | The thermostat or sensor is faulty | Low | Replacing the sensor/thermostat |
| The compressor hums continuously, there is no cold | Freon leak or blockage | High | Searching for leaks, refilling |
| The sound of a running fan is heard, but no air flows | Evaporator freezing (No Frost) | Medium | Defrost, checking the heating element |
| The compressor clicks and turns off | Starting relay burnt out | Low | Replacing the starting relay |
| Heat in both chambers, the motor is hot | Compressor wear | High | Replacing the compressor |
Analysis of symptoms allows you to understand whether it is worth trying to solve the problem yourself. For example, replacing a thermostat or relay is accessible to most users, while finding a leak requires a professional approach.
The influence of seals and operating rules
Sometimes the reason for the lack of cold is trivial and lies not in the technology, but in its operation. Sealing rubber bands over time, the doors wear out, crack or become dirty. If the door does not fit tightly, warm air constantly enters the chamber. The compressor tries to compensate for the heat, working for wear, but cannot cope with the volume.
This is especially noticeable in the summer, when the room temperature is high. It is also important to check whether the door is jammed due to skewed hinges or too many products that prevent it from closing tightly.
Another factor is the placement of the equipment. If the refrigerator is located close to the wall or in a niche without gaps, condenser it cannot effectively transfer heat. Overheating of the system leads to a decrease in cooling efficiency and an increase in the load on the compressor.
Regular cleaning of the drainage hole and checking the condition of the seals will prolong the life of your refrigerator. Sometimes it is enough just to wash and lubricate the rubber band with a special silicone grease to restore its elasticity.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why did the refrigerator turn on after defrosting, but stopped cooling again a day later?
Most likely, the problem is not in the ice plug, but in malfunction of the defrost system (heating element, timer or sensor). Ice formed again and blocked the channels. Diagnostics of system elements is required No Frost.
Can the refrigerator not cool because a hot pan was placed in it?
Yes, this is possible. A hot object sharply increases the temperature and humidity inside, which can lead to a short-term malfunction of the thermostat or even freezing of the evaporator. Give the appliance time to restore mode without opening the door for several hours.
How long should the refrigerator cool down after turning it on?
Usually it takes from 2 to 12 hours to reach operating temperature, depending on the model and load. If after 12 hours it is still warm in the main chamber, but the freezer is freezing, there is a malfunction.
Is it dangerous to continue using the refrigerator if it does not cool, but works?
If the upper chamber does not cool, the food may spoil. If the problem is a freon leak or a compressor malfunction, further operation may lead to complete failure of the motor. It is better to turn off the device until the reasons are found out.