The situation when the food in the freezer is petrified from the cold, and on the top shelf of the main compartment the milk has turned sour overnight, is a classic situation for refrigerator owners Biryusa. This phenomenon is often called the “single evaporator effect” or refrigerant circulation failure. The owner of the equipment is faced with confusion: the engine seems to be humming, there seems to be cold somewhere, but the cooling system is not working correctly.
The reason for this imbalance lies in the design features of the cooling system, where the cold is generated in one place and must be distributed throughout the entire volume. If there is an ice crust in the freezer, it means compressor it is working properly and freon is present in the system. The problem is localized in the mechanism of cold transfer or the control of this process. In refrigerators Biryusa, especially older models with a drip system, this is most often associated with a thermostat or gas leak.
Diagnostics must begin immediately, since running the compressor idle with impaired heat exchange can lead to to its overheating and failure. Unlike modern systems No Frostwhere fans are responsible for air distribution, in classic models Biryusa the cold is transmitted through the walls or natural convection. Violation of this process requires intervention.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear hissing or whistling when the refrigerator is operating, immediately unplug the device. This may indicate an active leak of freon, and further operation of the compressor without gas will lead to its combustion.
The principle of operation and distribution of cold in Biryusa
To understand why a temperature imbalance occurs, you need to understand the physics of the process. Most models Biryusa use a single-compressor circuit. This means that one unit pumps refrigerant to two circuits at once or to one common evaporator located in the freezer. The cold from this evaporator is either transmitted through a metal partition into the refrigeration compartment, or circulates through tubes hidden in the walls of the case.
If the freezer is very cold and the main chamber is warm, this indicates that the refrigeration cycle is starting, but does not complete fully for the entire volume. Thermoregulator, usually installed in the refrigerator compartment, does not sense a sufficient drop in temperature and does not give a command to stop the compressor. As a result, the freezer freezes the food, turning into an ice block, while the chamber remains warm.
It is important to note the difference between models with a crying evaporator and a system No Frost. In the first, the cold is transmitted through the back wall, which must periodically cool and thaw. Secondly, the fan is responsible for the distribution. If the model No Frost the freezer is working, but the refrigerator is warm, most likely the air supply channel is frozen or the damper is broken. In classic models, the problem almost always lies in the amount of freon or the operation of the thermostat.
A leak in the circuit or a clogged capillary tube also lead to similar symptoms. Freon can circulate only in a small circle (freezer), without reaching the main circuit. This creates the illusion of operation, but the cooling efficiency drops to zero in the main chamber.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and sensors
The most common and easily eliminated cause of temperature imbalance is failure thermostat. This mechanical or electronic sensor is responsible for turning the compressor on and off depending on the temperature in the refrigerator compartment. If its sensitive element (bellows tube) has lost its seal or has moved, it stops reading data correctly.
As a result, the thermostat “thinks” that the refrigerator is still warm and keeps the compressor on constantly. The freezer, receiving a continuous flow of cold freon, freezes through, overgrown with a thick layer of snow. Refrigerator compartment at the same time, it does not have time to cool due to insufficient circulation or simply because the operating cycle is broken.
- ❄️ Displacement of the thermostat sensitive tube: it should fit snugly to the evaporator, but not freeze tightly to it.
- ⚙️ Wear of internal contacts: the relay sticks in the on position without breaking the circuit.
- 🌡️ Loss of sensitivity: the sensor stops responding to temperature changes in the range from +4 to +8 degrees.
You can check the thermostat by temporarily removing it from the circuit or warming up the sensitive element. If the compressor does not turn off when heating, and the freezer continues to gain cold, the part requires replacement. In electronic models Biryusa this is responsible temperature sensor, which can be checked with a multimeter for changes in resistance.
Refrigerant leak and problems with freon
The second most popular reason why the freezer works but the refrigerator does not is a partial leak freon. When there is little gas left in the system, there is only enough gas to cool the first section of the evaporator, which is usually located in the freezer. The refrigerant simply does not reach the main circuit or arrives already warm.
Leakage symptoms often appear gradually. First, the refrigerator starts to work longer than usual, then a “fur coat” appears on the back wall of the freezer only in one corner, and the rest remains warm. In the refrigerator compartment the temperature stops dropping below +15 degrees. At the same time, the compressor works almost without stopping, trying to achieve the specified parameters.
Leaks in refrigerators Biryusa often occur in places where tubes are soldered or through microcracks in the foamed part of the housing, especially if a steel evaporator (evaporator) that is susceptible to corrosion was used. Gas can also escape through the door heating circuit, which is made in the form of a tube around the perimeter.
Signs of a freon leak:1. The compressor is hot and runs continuously.
2. The condenser grille at the back is only partially warm (1/3).
3. In the freezer, ice is only at the entrance of the tubes or in one corner.
4. Complete absence of cold in the main chamber.
It is difficult to find the location of the leak on your own, as special equipment is required - a leak detector and a pressure gauge station. Attempts to simply “refill” the refrigerator without eliminating the hole will only lead to a short-term effect and repeated breakdown.
Clogged capillary tube and filter drier
The third technical factor is clog in the circulation system. The capillary tube has a very small diameter, and even a microscopic particle of debris, moisture or oil oxidation product can block the freon flow. In this case, the pressure in the system increases, but the refrigerant does not enter the evaporator in the required volume.
Often the clog is accompanied by the formation of an ice plug if there is moisture in the system. Freon stops circulating, the compressor tries to push gas, it hums, but there is no cold anywhere, or it appears only at the starting point of the evaporator (in the freezer). The filter drier, designed to retain moisture, in this case also becomes clogged and requires replacement.
The blockage can be diagnosed by a characteristic sound: gurgling or complete silence of the system after the compressor stops (normally, gas flow should be heard). Also, the condenser grill at the back of the refrigerator will be cold, since the hot freon does not reach it.
| Symptom | Freon leak | Clogged system | Thermostat malfunction |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compressor operation | Constant, non-stop | Cyclic or constant | Constant, non-stop |
| Condenser temperature | Partly warm or cold | Cold or warm at the beginning | Hot along the entire length |
| State of the freezer | Ice in the corner or at the entrance of the tubes | Ice at the entrance of the tubes | Strong ice, “fur coat” |
| Temperature in the refrigerator | Heat (+10...+15°C) | Warm or slightly cold | Heat |
Removing the blockage requires purging the system with nitrogen under high pressure and replacing the filter-drier. This is a complex procedure that requires evacuation of the system before filling with new freon.
Is it possible to remove the blockage without a technician?
Theoretically, if you have a compressor for purging and a nitrogen mixture, this is possible. However, precise knowledge of the refrigerator circuit and the ability to solder copper tubes are required. An error will lead to depressurization or explosion of the circuit.
Problems with ventilation in No Frost models
If your Biryusa equipped with a system No Frostthen the principle of cold distribution is radically different. Here the evaporator is hidden behind a plastic panel, and cold air is forced into the chambers by a fan. If the freezer freezes, it means the evaporator is cold, but the air does not reach the refrigerator compartment.
The most likely reason is air duct freezing. Moisture entering the ventilation system freezes and blocks the channel. As a result, the fan hums, trying to expel air, but the damper is blocked by ice. The cold remains in the freezer, and the main chamber becomes warm.
- 🌀 Fan malfunction: the impeller can rotate, but at a low speed due to bearing wear.
- 🚪 Air damper failure: the mechanism is stuck in the closed position, not allowing cold flow.
- 🧊 Ice plug: requires complete defrosting of the refrigerator within 24 hours.
It is also worth checking the door seal. If it does not fit tightly, warm, moist air constantly enters the chamber, which quickly freezes at the outlet of the channel and blocks it. In models Turk this is a common problem due to the rubber drying out over time.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to pick out the ice with a knife or sharp objects! The plastic air ducts and evaporator in the No Frost system are very thin and easily punctured, which will lead to an instant leak of freon.
Diagnostics and step-by-step inspection instructions
Before calling a technician, you can carry out basic diagnostics to narrow down your search. This will help the specialist quickly understand the essence of the problem and prepare the necessary spare parts. Start with a visual inspection and listening to the operation of the unit.
First, check the tightness of the door. A sheet of paper sandwiched between the door and the body must be removed with force along the entire perimeter. If the door is leaking air, no treatment of the system will help - there will be a constant waste of energy and ice freezing. Then listen to the operation of the compressor: is it humming smoothly, are there any clicks.
☑️ Primary diagnostics
Next you need to feel the condenser grille at the back of the refrigerator. Normally it should be warm or hot evenly. If only the top part (near the compressor) is hot and the bottom is cold, this is a sign of a leak or blockage. If the grate is completely hot, but there is no cold in the chambers, the problem is in the thermostat or air circulation.
Be sure to completely defrost the refrigerator. Unplug it for 24 hours, leaving the doors open. If, after turning on, the system works normally for a couple of days, and then the problem returns, it means that the condensate drain channel in the system is clogged or the defrost heating element is faulty. No Frost The condensate drain channel is clogged or the defrost heating element is faulty.
If after defrosting the situation has not changed, and the freezer is only partially covered with ice again, and the refrigerator remains warm, most likely, professional repairs will be required by replacing the freon or thermostat.
When you need to call a technician
Independent repair of the refrigerator Biryusa is possible only if the thermostat is replaced or the system is defrosted. All manipulations associated with a sealed circuit (freon, soldering, vacuuming) require a license and special equipment. Attempts to do this on your own are dangerous to life and health.
Calling a specialist is necessary if you find an oily spot under the refrigerator (a sign of a leak through a foamed circuit), if the compressor starts and immediately stalls with a click, or if after replacing the thermostat the problem does not go away. A technician is also needed to replace the compressor, as this requires an accurate calculation of the power and type of refrigerant.
The cost of repairs often depends on the type of fault. Replacing the thermostat is a budget-friendly procedure. Freon refilling and leak detection are more expensive, as they require labor-intensive work. In older models Biryusa sometimes it is more economically feasible to replace the entire refrigerator if you need to change the compressor and digest the housing.
⚠️ Attention: When working with refrigeration equipment, flammable gases are used (propane-butane mixtures in new models). A spark from a blowtorch in a confined space can cause an explosion. Entrust the soldering to professionals.
Timely contacting a specialist will extend the life of your refrigerator. Ignoring the symptoms when the freezer is working but the refrigerator is not, leads to spoilage of food and failure of an expensive compressor due to operation in extreme mode.
Why did the refrigerator work after defrosting, but after a week stopped cooling again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system in models No Frost. Most likely, the defrost heating element has burned out, the time relay (timer) or defrost sensor has failed. Ice builds up on the evaporator, blocks the channels, and the cold stops flowing into the chamber. Defrosting removes the ice temporarily, but the reason (non-heating heating element) remains.
Is it possible to use the Biryusa refrigerator if it is warm in the main chamber and cold in the freezer?
You can operate the equipment in this mode only for a short time (1-2 days) until the technician arrives or diagnostics are carried out. Long-term operation of the compressor without shutting off (since the thermostat does not see the cold) will lead to overheating of the motor windings and its combustion. It is also possible that the oil in the compressor will swell.
What kind of freon is used in Biryusa refrigerators?
In older models it was used R12, in newer ones (since the late 90s) - R134a, and in the most modern environmentally friendly models - R600a (isobutane). The type of refrigerant is indicated on the nameplate (metal plate) on the housing. Mixing different types of freons is strictly prohibited.
How to understand that it is the thermostat that has failed and not the compressor?
If the compressor is working (humming, vibrating), the grille is heating up at the back, but there is no cold or it is distributed unevenly - the compressor is most likely alive. If the compressor is silent or hums for 2 seconds and clicks, the problem is in the start relay, compressor or electrical circuit. The thermostat affects the operating cycle: if it breaks, the compressor either does not turn on at all or does not turn off.